Am I reading that Vuelta ring correctly that it's a 30t? Mated to a 45t? Is that a 110/74 BCD crank? If so, how'd you get that to work on the outter ring and inner ring? NDS photo please? :D

Did you do the paint yourself? It's not a color scheme I would have thought of (can you guess why I'm not an interior decorator or artist?), but it looks really nice. For some reason it reminds me of the black and white Bridgstone RB-1's.

Also, those black (VO?) fenders look really snazzy!

Yep, it’s a 46t/30t made possible with an obscure 94 BCD crankset. The M737 is the best looking Deore crankset, IMO.
I’m almost proud of myself with the way the paint turned out. The color scheme is inspired by my childhood favorite monster truck: Gravedigger. Finding the neon green bar tape in the Box o’ Crap sealed its fate.
And yep, they’re well-loved VO fenders. I’ve got to add some fender flaps to tame the sandy sludge on the “gravel” roads around here.

I have a question for you all. So my Trek has always felt like the top tube is long, I feel like I'm always scooting forward on the saddle. Im out of shape but also feel like my stem is long.

I currently have a 90mm stem on it, but have been wanting to go back to the 80mm stem. I know that 10mm is not much in the theme of things, Is it just me?

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...9e53985d5e.jpg

Stem length can make the difference some times. Thankfully, since no one is telling you to ride the bike the way it is, you are beyond free to experiment with fit as it is your bike and not someone else's or someone else's idea of what you should ride.

If the saddle feels too far back, loosen the bolt and slide it forward. If the stem is too long, you feel, and you don't have a shorter one, loosen the stem's bar clamping bolt and rotate the bars upward to bring the brake levers closer to you. That should tell you if shortening the stem and/or scooting the saddle forward is a good idea. Gotta be comfortable to ride--don't need our permission to try things out.

At the 25.5" frame size, Treks of this era (I have a 410/412 frame from 1980) have long top tubes, as do earlier ones. Mine's a 60mm, which is more or less my limit all things considered. I run a 100mm stem max or, if a 110mm stem, Soma Highway Ones or some bar with a short reach set up. I have a preferred reach distance that I measure from the sit bone point on my saddle (a point that is derived from the BB spindle center point) and can fairly easily tell if it's too long. A lot of bikes in the 63-65cm size had "this is how it should be equipped" 120mm or 130mm stems with long reach bars. I'm lanky, but not an orangutan or albatross, so stems that long are immediately sold or donated. It looks like you have your saddle slammed back on the rails. I'd try moving it forward 10-20cm just to see how that feels, and make small adjustments from there if you think you're close. Experimentation is free, which is great. None of us (that are reasonable) will judge you for how we think you "should" fit your bike. There are many different fits across all heights, flexibilities, ages, and body dimensions. I'm confident you'll be able to find yours. If anything, since you have multiple bikes, measure up the ones that you think/feel fit you really well and use that as a reference point or setup to exactly copy (as much as possible).

The stems on all my bikes are apparently shorter than normal. They vary from 60mm to 90mm.

That is a nice looking Deore crankset.
So is it just the crank arms matched up with 2 non-original rings? I'm somewhat ignorant when it comes to BCD and other such technicalities so please forgive the possibly odd question.

If none of the free adjustment ideas work for you, the following adjustable stem is a possibility. It allows you to try various combinations of shorter reach and higher bar position (rise). Once you find the best setting you can leave this stem as-is or purchase a fixed stem that has the proper length/angle.

You'll also need a threadless stem adapter to fit this onto your existing threaded system.


Additionally, there is a calculator that allows the reach and rise of different stems to be compared:

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net



https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-4-Axi.../dp/B018MS05OM


https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....mL._SX569_.jpg

It looks like you have your saddle slid pretty far back on the rails. Have you tried sliding it forward?

Ooops I thought I posted a newer picture of my setup.

Here how it sits currently, I feel like I find myself scooting forward a bit. When Im on the bars I feel like I'm putting pressure on them, I think that is just me though being out of shape. But that doesn't seem to explain me pulling forward.

Bars are NITTO noodle 44cm bars.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...515e555ab2.jpg

PM Sent

I posted this in the "Where Did You Ride Today" thread, but I figured I would give it some more love here.

I was able to put 45 miles on my 716 over the weekend. I'm really starting to love this bike, such a smooth ride and it feels great out of the saddle.

And now that I'm getting used to it, maybe the 600 Arabesque group isn't that bad...

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...cf248458d5.jpg

I've posted them individually before but was able to take a group photo of my 3 Treks:
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/...a60019e0_b.jpg
IMG_6290 by 2cam16, on Flickr

Well, it's a Trek.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...78325a5679.jpg


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...83ea76e452.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...448890b701.jpg

'85 Trek 500 Fixed Gear

Bulletproof.

There is a level of "aggression" in driving in LA that stuns me.

Nothing like seeing a Lamborghini or whatever blazing 90+ on a twisty road in Beverly Hills...

Now that's an understatement!
(Also holds the record for the largest Trek logo on a bike.)

One word description: awesome

Here are my Treks .... This isn't all of them as I also owned a 8.5 DS and a Trek 2.1 Alpha Apex but neither are vintage ..


1990 Mountain Track 850 ... This was my very first bike back in 2014 . I spent $40 on it and kinda wish I still had it

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...d4544c019f.jpg

1991 Trek Multitrack .. This is the first bike I built up , it was a frame with drive train when I purchased it , and I learned a lot about working on bikes with this one and all the advice I received from bike forums members. This is another bike I honestly wish I had kept very fun bike to ride.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...5b9d733043.jpg
My 1993 Trek 370 , this was an interesting bike . I do not miss it and I purchased it because it had a full Campy C record drive train which I removed and sold on eBay. I rebuilt it with a 600 Tri Color group and some Ultegra wheels I had laying around. I do not miss it as it was too small for me.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...22fdfe2191.jpg






Last is my current Trek ... A 1994 Trek 520 Touring bike , this is probably my favorite of the lot at least so far and I considered selling it but now I am really thinking I may hold onto it .. It had been heavily toured internationally by the original owner and needed a lot of TLC and a complete overhaul when I purchased it. I like it so much I've considered sending the frame to Yellow Jersey to repaint and decal it.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...6e9c51e238.jpg

Eventually if I ever sell my early Allez I will find a Trek 620 or 720.... That will be a keeper though.

Canti 520 is one of the most versatile setups ever produced. Period. I've seen them in triathlons, group rides, charity events, cyclocross, etc. You have a bike event, and a 520 in some configuration is bound to be there. Many an owner has bought a newer model bike and ended up going back to the 520.

Those single-tracks, multi-tracks, Antelopes, etc. Can't seem to kill 'em. My brother commuted on one for 5 years in Madison, WI, year round. It got "stolen" twice from the rack outside his apartment, but always ended up back there. I'm not sure he ever locked it up.

I like your 520 - the white fenders look sharp and are shaped properly relative to the wheels. The front rack is imaginative and the down-facing aux. mount from the stem is something I haven't seen before.

Here's one possibility for leveling the front rack - you would need to remove the fixed-length struts that you have connected to the mid-fork mounts, These are kinda pricey (and you'd need to make sure they're long enough), but it gives you some idea. With a little imagination you could probably find pieces and parts at Home Depot to make something similar.

Or you could remove the two fixed struts from the mid fork mount and get/rig a mount from the rack to the hole in the fork crown - probably an easier solution if you making parts yourself - but stability might suffer a little.


https://velo-orange.com/collections/rack-hardware-and-accessories/products/surly-rack-adaptor-hardware

$35

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/21...g?v=1503376017