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Stuck Seat post (yes i know, another stuck seat post posting)

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Stuck Seat post (yes i know, another stuck seat post posting)

Old 05-14-11, 12:09 AM
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mapleleafs-13 
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Stuck Seat post (yes i know, another stuck seat post posting)

ok, got ahold of a nice bianchi celeste bike, with suntour everything' ish it says quattro. it's a colubus bianchi frame.

so everything checked out, except for the seat post, i originally took everything apart, including the bottom bracket, it's down the the frame mainly.

i hung the frame upside down with a bottle at the end of the seatpost, then i sprayed 4/5 of a can of liquid wrench, ran out then sprayed it with 1/2 can pb blaster, none leaked out through the seat post when i had it upside down. I kept rotate the frame around when it was upside down, and let it soak for 3 days in my garage. i put the seat post into a vice today and me and my brother managed to move the frame back and forth, while the seat post made a loud creeking noise.

we can move the seat post a full 360 degrees with alot of force, but we cannot pull it out?

am i stuck going to the hacksaw method again, i'm trying to save the seat post, it's a really nice Gipimme fluted seat post.

(btw, when i was moving the seat post when it was in the vice, it got super hot, i couldn't hold my hand on the seat tube cause it was that hot)
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Old 05-14-11, 12:20 AM
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I believe Kurt has some expertise in exactly this area. I remember reading about one of the stuck seatposts he removed that had a thick layer of corrosion on it even when it was out. Probably the same deal.
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Old 05-14-11, 12:38 AM
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Ive just been through this with a handle bar stem, and I would say that since its moving -just keep going - no doubt at times you'll want to smash it with a (non-rubber) hammer, but just walk away at those times and come back the next day (or the day after !)

The heat is just friction of course- corroded aluminum rubbing against corroded steel or aluminum - gradually those fluids will get through, but they will take longer than you think - frustrating yes, but if you want that seat post, and dont want to go through the hacksaw thing - you'll be happy in the end.
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Old 05-14-11, 12:43 AM
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Once the Alu post heats up, it is probably even harder to move, alu has a higher coeficient of thermal expansion than steel (meaning it grows faster due to heating. Maybe try packing the exposed end of the seatpost in dry ice (-30degrees) wile heating the steel seattube with a hairdryer, a heat-gun or just more friction from movement. The aluminum post will shrink more than the surrounding steel increasing the clearance.
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Old 05-14-11, 12:49 AM
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Easy. You got to eff up the seatpost now. But the frame is more valuable than a seatpost. Drill a hole through the seatpost large enough for a large screwdriver to be inserted through completely. Insert screwdriver. Twist while pulling straight up. Should come out. If the post spins, it'll come out.

Unless you just absolutely have to save the seatpost, this is the easiest method. Kurt has implemented appropriate leverage in a successful manner, but he will have to explain it. I'm too tired to go into depth.
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Old 05-14-11, 02:52 AM
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i had a stuck stem that i could rotate but pulling up was virtually impossible.

what i did was move it back and forth until the friction warmed up the steel head tube and aluminum stem, then I held the aluminum and waited for it to cool slightly.. then yanked up as i twisted. it slowly came out after about an hour of fighting with it. i didn't have a vise either so i had to stand on the wheel with the tips of my feet to hold the bike down lol
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Old 05-14-11, 04:03 AM
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I've done this with handlebars, and it might work with a seatpost:

Attach a seat to the post. The seat is to be used as leverage. Don't use one you like. Now, put the bike upside-down on the floor so the seat is on the floor. Put your feet on the seat and stand on it. This is to hold the seat to the ground. Now, grab the frame with your hands and twist the entire frame while pulling up. Move it back and forth until the post releases.
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Old 05-14-11, 04:28 AM
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Its turning, it will come out. Soak again.

Vise is your best bet.


Kroil or an acetone/ATF mix is much better than PB Blaster.
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Old 05-14-11, 08:07 AM
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Continue to spin the post (complete with loud creaking noise) while your brother puts pressure against the seatlug with a crowbar, as shown below:



This works best with lugs that have ears that are part of the casting, but will work on either. Use a rag or any other means you find suitable to protect the paint.

The post will come out in less than 5 minutes; maybe 1.

-Kurt
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Old 05-14-11, 10:10 AM
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thanks i will try that...

should i soak it again though kurt?

cause it's pretty hard to do with one person, but with 2 it's a lot easier...

and yes, it cracks like a muther^%*$&%*$ when i spin it
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Old 05-14-11, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mapleleafs-13 View Post
should i soak it again though kurt?

cause it's pretty hard to do with one person, but with 2 it's a lot easier...

and yes, it cracks like a muther^%*$&%*$ when i spin it
Fill the seattube with fluids when you do this. As the post is extracted, the fluids will drip between the surfaces and assist. You'll have a mess on the workshop floor, but it'll do the job.

I'm familiar with that creaking. The frame I pulled that post out of did the same thing. Simply twisting it achieved nothing, as shown here:


-Kurt
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Old 05-14-11, 11:35 PM
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if i put the crow bar on the seat post lugs won't it make a mark on the lugs?
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Old 05-14-11, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cudak888 View Post
Simply twisting it achieved nothing, as shown here
i forgot how sweaty i got trying to pull the stem.. but seeing your shirt reminded me
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Old 05-15-11, 05:58 AM
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Just wait until the Gorilla technique results in a separated seat stay, or two. Been there done that and I no longer use great force on any vintage road bicycle frame set - no matter what.
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Old 05-15-11, 06:36 AM
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+1 One place I do not use for leverage are the stays. I focus on the main triangle only, and don't get carried away.
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Old 05-15-11, 06:45 AM
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It's a steel frame and an aluminum seat post, right? If yes, penetrating fluids don't help a lot. Turn it over and fill seat tube with ammonia. You have to put in enough to fill the seat post above the bottom of where it is into the frame. That will eat the corrosion. twist back and forth to get it flowing in there good. I let it soak for quite a while.
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Old 05-15-11, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by mapleleafs-13 View Post
if i put the crow bar on the seat post lugs won't it make a mark on the lugs?
From post #9:

"This works best with lugs that have ears that are part of the casting, but will work on either. Use a rag or any other means you find suitable to protect the paint."
Originally Posted by randyjawa View Post
Just wait until the Gorilla technique results in a separated seat stay, or two. Been there done that and I no longer use great force on any vintage road bicycle frame set - no matter what.
That is why I keep a wheel of the proper OLN width installed in the rear triangle - and also why I suggest using the crowbar method as soon as the post starts to move.

If you're not willing to use a bit of calculated force, you're not going to get the seatpost out. Take your pick.

-Kurt
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Old 05-15-11, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy View Post
I removed one like yours by putting a sacrificial seat on, and wedging it in the crook of a tree. Twisting and pulling on the frame with the seat wedged got it out. No crowbars involved, and certainly not on the ears of a seat clamp of an Italian frame.
That's all very well and good - if you can find a tree that will hug that saddle tight enough.

-Kurt
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Old 05-15-11, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Fat Guy View Post
Shoot, I found one in Phoenix, so I would imagine you could find one anywhere
In the land of palm trees?

-Kurt
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Old 07-14-11, 04:11 PM
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Just wanted to add to a thread of great advice for seized seat post/stem woes.

I picked up a neglected '96 GT Karakoram yesterday. The seatpost was bottomed out and didn't spin, but I had nothing with me to test it at the seller's place. Once home I discovered the post was seized, not just bottomed out and wedged in.
This particular Kalloy post was rounded profile, not like the SR Laprade style with flat sides. I couldn't get a tool to grab it and twist it. Hammer and punch didn't work to free it either. I soaked it over night with lots of PB Blaster. Next morning it still didn't budge. I remembered the tree and saddle trick, but had neither. A cactus wasn't going to suffice.
I don't have a bench vise available.
I came up with this arrangement, and perhaps it's already been posted elsewhere. I used 2 round shank, long screwdrivers. Clamped down like seat rails.
With the frame braced, a tug on both handles produced a satisfying twist and creaking sound. In my case, it broke free rather effortlessly. I did notice not a lot of the penetrating fluid made it to the corrosion. Most of it spilled out when I up righted the frame for a photo. (DOH!)




Now that the post is out, a sigh of relief, and I can think of what's next (missing Deore LX derailers, twisted dropout, probably repaint).

Thought I'd share this satisfactory save. HTH someone.
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Old 07-14-11, 04:14 PM
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Doesn't sound as if that post was that stuck to begin with. There are worse out there.

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Old 07-14-11, 04:25 PM
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It wasn't like the mother of all stuck seatposts like in your video!
But it was seized. And no simple way to wrench it without ruining it cosmetically. I wanted to save the post too. Just glad it wasn't worse.
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