Chroming a frame
 

I just picked up a Univega Gran Turismo. Paint is crap, and there is rust on the frame. A repaint is in order. Having seen chromed bikes and loving them, what would it take to have a frame & fork chromed? I'm thinking about all the little screw threads that probably need to chased afterwards. In the past, hydrogen embriddlement has been a concern.

Any useful input?

It will be very expensive. You can help by stripping off all (and I do mean ALL) the paint, and sanding the bare steel down to 600 grit before you turn it over to the platers. The better the prep, the better the shine. Traditionally, chrome is laid on top of copper and nickel. So any deficiencies are built right in.

You want perfect, do your part and give them a perfect frame to work with. Or be willing to pay the freight to have someone else care about your frame the way you do.

I wouldn't recommend it since there a good chance the chromer will ruin the frame/fork during the buffing stage by overdoing it; rounding edges etc. Also it is not easy rinsing all the acid out of the chain and seat stays, which results in holes in the stays years later. Finding a shop that can do a great job on a bike frame is very difficult.

Will echo the thought that finding a shop that can do a decent job is very difficult and chrome finishes also degrade... this is not to say I would not like to do something like nickel plate a bike.

If there is a Custom Motor cycle shop in your area, ask them which plating shop they use. Custom plating shops do a great job, Bumper platers don't.

Cyclart is in your neck of the woods (about an hour south in Vista) and do chrome right. They're not cheap, but if they're close enough you might stop by and discuss what you want to do.

Cyclart homepage

I have an industrial plater who does a super job, regardless of the material. I've had him polish and rechrome several forks and my primary objection is that there was not enough attention to detail where it was most needed--around the lug margins and other tight locations--that I suspect was more driven by the tools and methods used to polish on that scale than by poor workmanship. Everything I get back from them, included a full frame and fork that was nickel-plated immediately goes into my old clawfoot tub for a soak in a baking soda solution and cleaning of bleed holes. I now take my polishing needs to a local guy who is more focused and equipped on turn out finely-polished work. As for threads, I provided a pair of sacrificial cups for the bb shell and an M10 bolt for the derailleur hanger. After plating there was no need to chase any of the smaller threads for bottle holder braze on, fender eyelets or rear dropout adjuster threads. I think your lbs would have real difficulty trying to chase chromed threads anyhow.

Chrome on the threads has never been a problem on the car parts that I've chromed. Chrome isn't thick like powder coat can be.

Good informative link. Thank you for crushing my hopes & dreams like a caterpillar. Sounds like powdercoating is a more realistic solution. I intend to keep and ride this bike.

Orange County is THE center of auto customization and restoration. Within a few blocks of my home exists any kind of resto service you can imagine, short of heavy casting. There are good chrome shops here, but it sounds too labor intensive to be practical.

"Chrome" powdercoat is available and looks pretty good.

well, to cheer you up the univega GT is a fantastic bike. too bad about the paint, because mine looks great with nice lining of the lugs too.

back in the day, lots of crappy bikes were partially chromed. you owe it to yourself to explore all options before you give up.

Yes this is the best option...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/missionbicycle/4736444558/

Real chrome plating, properly done, will be VERY expensive. There is a reason why the auto companies gave up on real chromed metal parts.

This link goes to a company that sells a trick auto paint that looks almost exactly like chrome. Anyone who knows how to properly apply auto paints can apply this stuff. Of course it's not as durable as real chrome, since it's paint.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mir...irrachrome.htm

This Ferrari was painted with the above chrome paint for a bling-tastic effect.

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mir...599gtb2-MC.jpg

I don't think that plating is all that expensive, compared to a paint job. That said, it's environmentally harmful, and as others have said above, the prep of the surface is of utmost importance. Plating doesn't hide anything. My guess is that I would be happier with the quality a nice paint job. I must admit that I have had dropouts and fork crown chromed on one frame I've had refinished. But there are issues with hydrogen embrittlement of thin steel, etc. So for other frames, I've just decided that paint or PC is the best answer.

Polishing the metal prior to painting is where the expense comes in. Your average Joe Cyclist doesn't have the tools/equipment at home for a proper DIY polishing job. Paying someone to polish and plate a bike frame will be more expensive than painting. Pro quality painting can also be done at home with a minimal investment in painting gear. Unless you really are hardcore, you're not doing chrome plating at home. Besides, most towns would probably shut you down if they found out you had a chrome operation going in your garage. The chemicals involved are highly toxic.

I was recently quoted for 300 € for a quaity job on a fine Italian frame. not cheap.

I had these guys do a frame for me last year. With them stripping the paint and other prep it was abut $240 including the shipping back to me. I am generally pleased with the frame except there is some milkiness in the hard to reach areas such as around the seat lug and BB bridge, most likely because the polishing equipment used by the plater wouldn't (economically) reach there. I want to do another frame and will try to do the prep in the hard to reach places myself.

http://www.qualitychromeplating.com/bicycles.php

" some milkiness in the hard to reach areas such as around the seat lug and BB bridge, most likely because the polishing equipment used by the plater wouldn't (economically) reach there." QUOTE sced.


It could also be due to the "lack of throw", with the plating anode. That is one of the main reasons a bicycle plater will supply a better product than a "job shop".


Regards,
J T