![]() |
Drewing a frame.
As you folks know, I am looking for a randonneuring bicycle. You have made some wonderful recommendations and I continue to search for them.
I had a sick thought. What if i took a beautiful old frame with more relaxed geometry, 27 inch wheels and had a local builder add some cantilever bosses for me? I imagine going with an older frame would give me more clearance and converting 27 to 700c would give me even more. What do you guys think? Recommended frames? |
Do it classy!
Post pics. I'll post pics when I finish mine. :) |
About a month ago I came across a CL ad of a early 70's Raleigh International frame and fork where canti studs had been added. I bet that frame/fork would've made an excellent randonneuring bicycle. I actually send out an email to the guy and got a response. I should have bought it. I think he wanted $50. Paint was in BAD shape.
~kn |
If its a 54/55cm send him an email and see if he still has it ;) I would love to do this to a Raleigh International.
|
Originally Posted by Epicus07
(Post 12711473)
If its a 54/55cm send him an email and see if he still has it ;) I would love to do this to a Raleigh International.
~kn |
Originally Posted by knoregs
(Post 12711486)
Step ahead a ya. ;) Just sent him a fresh email. I noticed he included his phone number in his original response so if I don't receive an email response by tomorrow, I'll give him a call.
~kn |
Originally Posted by knoregs
(Post 12711461)
About a month ago I came across a CL ad of a early 70's Raleigh International frame and fork where canti studs had been added. I bet that frame/fork would've made an excellent randonneuring bicycle. I actually send out an email to the guy and got a response. I should have bought it. I think he wanted $50. Paint was in BAD shape.
~kn |
I would much prefer a 70's international but how were the 80's?
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/va...407115572.html |
Originally Posted by Sirrus Rider
(Post 12711506)
You should have. A little TLC in the form of elbow grease and paint removal then a trip to either a frame painter or a powdercoater then good as new.
~kn |
Originally Posted by knoregs
(Post 12711574)
... Hopefully the seller didn't scrap it.
~kn |
Originally Posted by Epicus07
(Post 12711561)
I would much prefer a 70's international but how were the 80's?
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/va...407115572.html |
I looked at the photos again, and it is Japanese, I'd bet on it. Probably around 1989 to 1991 is my guess. You can just make out the decal under the seat cluster. On mine, it looked the same and said Made in Japan. Another tipoff is the 12 speed Suntour group. That and the cranks dates it way past the 70's.
|
Found my 'heads up' post
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post12378965 Seller said it was a 57cm ctc. Probably a shorter top tube though. ~kn |
Uuummmm, like this? It was pre-drewed so I Rob'd it
http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread......?highlight= |
ou know, I think a Raleigh Sports or a UO-8 would make an excellent rando ride. Certainly smooth enough to not beat you up over a long ride. Maybe a Trek 850? Those things had canti studs installed at the factory, and csome of the longest damn chainstays I've ever seen. Since you're willing to have it repainted or powdercoated anyway, I'd imagine paint condition is no real object. We've got one at the shop for IIRC $250 with very clean paint, but it is tiny. I think it's a 48.
|
Nice work rob!
a 57 would work if it was 56 cm top tube or less. |
I think mine measures 23"c-c seat tube and 22.5" c-c top tube
|
i've done this. it works well. i also had a frame builder move 27" cantis to 700c. in retrospect, i probably would have just found some Dia Compe 981s.
you can also just go 650b with long reach caliper brakes if you don't want to repaint. http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5266/...1c87b0e4_b.jpg |
Grayjay just did this to a '73 Botteccia with good results except for some trouble with a poorly brazed steerer tube (from 40 years ago).
|
i would like to put a vote in for a trek 310 elance.
mid 80's frame with downtube shifter brazeons. plastic screwon under BB cable guide, so RD stop is on bottom of the driveside chainstay. pump peg! ishiwata tubing. i've got a 79 trek 710 too and to tell you the truth there is little to recommend one over the other. mine is a 56 CC seat tube and there is plenty of toe clearance for my size 10.5 shoe even with 27" wheels (which it came with). these are cheap and i see them on CL all the time. mine cost me 89 with original components (cyclone RD, araya a20 rims. shimano arabesque hubs, sr crank, seatpost and stem/bars. these frames were the first imported from taiwan (built by merida). so, desirability is purely due to precedence. in that it was the FIRST undesirable frame branded by trek from outside the US. ha see the vintage trek website for more info and pictures. |
I test rode an 1986 400 t elance this weekend that felt nice. I just wish it had 27 inch wheels for clearance.
|
Originally Posted by balindamood
(Post 12711724)
Grayjay just did this to a '73 Botteccia with good results except for some trouble with a poorly brazed steerer tube (from 40 years ago).
|
Nevermind......found it!!! :D
|
I ran a Trek 310 or 330 Elance as 650B for a while and thought it worked well. Kinda wish I stil had it because it was a really nice bike overall.
|
I've got a 53cm Trek 730 frame from 78 that I want to do this very thing to. Just can't bring myself to make it happen though.
|
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:56 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.