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Fender stay add-on eyelets for dropouts

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Fender stay add-on eyelets for dropouts

Old 06-03-11, 07:27 PM
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Amesja
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Fender stay add-on eyelets for dropouts

I hate bikes that have the fender stays mounted over the axle bolts. I have a Dutch Flying Jet that I am restoring and I really like the bike other than the fact that they put the fender stays under the axles. Overall a quality bike but they went cheap. There are eyelets on the rear dropouts that they just didn't use -but the forks don't have any eyelets at the dropouts out front.

Is there a way I can make my own clips for eyelets on the bottom of the fork or is it destined to move around too much? Does anyone make such a thing commercially?

This bike is a flip so I don't want to get TOO nuts but when I see a bike with fender stays over the axle it just screams CHEAP and I'd like this bike to only whisper cheap rather than scream it when I'm trying to sell it. It's a DUTCH BIKE for chrissakes
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Old 06-03-11, 07:50 PM
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Charles Wahl
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A photo of what you're fulminating about ("fender stays over the axle") would help. Some people use P-clamps (with rubber isolation) around fork blades or seat stays; is that what you're upset about? You could get a serrated washer, braze on an eyelet threaded for the fender stays, and put that "over the end of the axle" when installing the wheel -- or would that offend as well?
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Old 06-03-11, 07:51 PM
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I don't know where I came off as "upset" -I merely asked a question. The P-clamp thing is an idea. I'll have to look into that now that I have a name. Thanks.
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Old 06-03-11, 07:57 PM
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I have seen people drill a hole in the frame and then add a "REV" nut, I think thats what it's called. It's a blind nut you put in the hole and compress with a special tool and it is permanent. Thats how they do some bottle mounts on AL frames.
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Old 06-03-11, 08:04 PM
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The thought of drilling a hole in the fork is a bit scary -although there are holes in the inside of the forks already to drain water -I don't think I'll be adding any more

The "P-clamp" idea seems to be the trick. I can pick them up for a couple of bucks and shorten the stays on the fender to go to them rather than all the way to the axle nut. For the rear fender there are already eyelets on the rear dropouts in the typical Raleigh location that the fender stays already pass right by on the way to the axle. The Flying Jet I'm restoring is a Dutch-made licensed copy of the Raleigh sports so the rear DO's are identical as is the frame for the most part. The Forks, however, are not the same. No thimbles on top, different crown with chrome cover, and no fender eyelets down by the dropouts. Really cool chrome plated fenders and fender stays though. It'll be an upgrade to the next owner who won't have to mess with the darn fender stays every time they need to change the wheel. Going to the axle is so department-store BSO yucky. The rest of the bike is pretty high quality. Strange they cut this particular corner...
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Old 06-03-11, 08:20 PM
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don't mess with it for a flip. The fender stays that go over an axle are quite large, and I dont think it would work well mounted any other way.
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Old 06-03-11, 08:22 PM
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There looks to be quite a bit of "flat" area behind the hole for the axle before it goes to a V-shape. I think it is plenty long enough to mount to a hardware-store P-clamp. It'd just be a matter of snipping it shorter with a tin snips, filing it down a little to kill the sharp edge and drilling a new hole. The only thing i'd be worried about is if the P-clamps would hold or would twist around and not stay put. Probably take about 10 minutes to do if it worked out.
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Old 06-03-11, 08:28 PM
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Like these? https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...ttachment.html

~kn
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Old 06-03-11, 08:33 PM
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That is exactly what I am looking for. If I were making an order to VO I'd get them. I hear they have about the same thing at a hardware store. I'll look the next time I'm there and if I can't find them then I'll maybe orderize them from VO.
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Old 06-03-11, 09:20 PM
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I have fenders mounted to a bike using P-clips. Works perfectly-- snug, no rattles:





The P-clips are 1/2" in front, 3/8" in rear, and I still had to use thin rubber shims (made from inner tubes) to take up the slack, otherwise they were too loose.
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Old 06-03-11, 09:39 PM
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Thanks southpawboston! That's exactly what I was looking for.
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