Advice on a Colnago Mexico
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Advice on a Colnago Mexico
Hi,
This is my first posting. What a great site! Wealth of information...
I seek advise on my Colnago Mexico which I bought about 2 years ago. I ride about 2 - 3 times a week, usually recreationally to keep my weight down and to keep fit.
I bought the bike from my LBS and briefly I think it has been modernized a bit by the previous owner as it came with a Shimano 600 crank, dura ace front derailleur and 600 ex rear derailleur, brakes and seat post. It also came with Wolber 700 wheels with tubulars. Its a 6 speed. Condition is still good for the age but there are some spots where the paint has chipped or scratched.
Currently the brake lever and calipers are Shimano 600, the front and rear deraileur dura ace, the gear lever campagnolo crank dura-ace/600 (tak ingat) and stem and handle bar colnago. Wheelset, Wolber tapi tubular.
Questions :-
Is it worthwhile to continue modernizing the bike, i.e. STI etc or leave it as it is is..?
Conversely, if to keep it period and standard, what parts do i need to look out for, i.e. ebay etc?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
I am a bit paranoid with the tubulars as I dont know what to do if I get a flat. Think of changing to clinchers and keeping the Wolbers to ride near the house. My LBS told me that the problem with building a new set of wheels is to find the right hubs and cassette since it is a 6 speed. Is this true? What is the max that I can fit, 7 speed? 8 speed?
TIA..
Regards
Sleme
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
This is my first posting. What a great site! Wealth of information...
I seek advise on my Colnago Mexico which I bought about 2 years ago. I ride about 2 - 3 times a week, usually recreationally to keep my weight down and to keep fit.
I bought the bike from my LBS and briefly I think it has been modernized a bit by the previous owner as it came with a Shimano 600 crank, dura ace front derailleur and 600 ex rear derailleur, brakes and seat post. It also came with Wolber 700 wheels with tubulars. Its a 6 speed. Condition is still good for the age but there are some spots where the paint has chipped or scratched.
Currently the brake lever and calipers are Shimano 600, the front and rear deraileur dura ace, the gear lever campagnolo crank dura-ace/600 (tak ingat) and stem and handle bar colnago. Wheelset, Wolber tapi tubular.
Questions :-
Is it worthwhile to continue modernizing the bike, i.e. STI etc or leave it as it is is..?
Conversely, if to keep it period and standard, what parts do i need to look out for, i.e. ebay etc?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
I am a bit paranoid with the tubulars as I dont know what to do if I get a flat. Think of changing to clinchers and keeping the Wolbers to ride near the house. My LBS told me that the problem with building a new set of wheels is to find the right hubs and cassette since it is a 6 speed. Is this true? What is the max that I can fit, 7 speed? 8 speed?
TIA..
Regards
Sleme
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
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Sleme,
Welcome to the Forum.
Modernize to STI? Up to you, but that is likely to be expensive. I think the majority of the people in this forum are content with friction shifting. Some who don't care for having to reach to the downtube to make the shift have set their bikes up with bar-end friction shifters.
I'll let someone who knows about Colnago Mexico's answer your question about "standard".
New coat of paint? Again, up to you, but a lot of people won't repaint unless the original paint is in poor shape. A few chips and scratches can be fixed by touching up. If you do decide to re-paint, make sure the person has experience painting bikes, and make sure you see some of their work and are happy with what they have done in the past.
I have started riding tubulars this year and I prefer them. There isn't really anything to be intimidated about. I carry a spare tubular tire with a base coat of glue on it - much the way that people who ride clinchers will carry an extra inner tube. It is actually quite easy to change a tubular - I think easier than changing a clincher. I have collected some information about tubular tires. I would be happy to pass what I have on to you if you are interested.
For the rest of your question, you will need to know the width of the rear dropouts (measured from inside edge to inside edge). I suspect yours will be 126mm. If so, a 6-speed is what is normally the limit. To get more, you would have to go with a wider hub and stretch the rear dropouts. If you spread to 130mm, you can go to 7 speed, and (I think) to some 8 speeds. Some people are ok with this. My personal preference is to not do it.
If you want to go with more than a six speed, you will need new hubs (130mm, or whatever you decide to go with). If you want to stay with a 6 speed, you could get that size hub (maybe not in your bike shop, but they can still be found) or use your existing hub. If you want to use clinchers, you can build wheels with either your existing, or with the other hub (or have them built).
Good luck, and enjoy your very nice bike.
Welcome to the Forum.
Modernize to STI? Up to you, but that is likely to be expensive. I think the majority of the people in this forum are content with friction shifting. Some who don't care for having to reach to the downtube to make the shift have set their bikes up with bar-end friction shifters.
I'll let someone who knows about Colnago Mexico's answer your question about "standard".
New coat of paint? Again, up to you, but a lot of people won't repaint unless the original paint is in poor shape. A few chips and scratches can be fixed by touching up. If you do decide to re-paint, make sure the person has experience painting bikes, and make sure you see some of their work and are happy with what they have done in the past.
I have started riding tubulars this year and I prefer them. There isn't really anything to be intimidated about. I carry a spare tubular tire with a base coat of glue on it - much the way that people who ride clinchers will carry an extra inner tube. It is actually quite easy to change a tubular - I think easier than changing a clincher. I have collected some information about tubular tires. I would be happy to pass what I have on to you if you are interested.
For the rest of your question, you will need to know the width of the rear dropouts (measured from inside edge to inside edge). I suspect yours will be 126mm. If so, a 6-speed is what is normally the limit. To get more, you would have to go with a wider hub and stretch the rear dropouts. If you spread to 130mm, you can go to 7 speed, and (I think) to some 8 speeds. Some people are ok with this. My personal preference is to not do it.
If you want to go with more than a six speed, you will need new hubs (130mm, or whatever you decide to go with). If you want to stay with a 6 speed, you could get that size hub (maybe not in your bike shop, but they can still be found) or use your existing hub. If you want to use clinchers, you can build wheels with either your existing, or with the other hub (or have them built).
Good luck, and enjoy your very nice bike.
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Originally Posted by sleme
Hi,
This is my first posting. What a great site! Wealth of information...
I seek advise on my Colnago Mexico which I bought about 2 years ago. I ride about 2 - 3 times a week, usually recreationally to keep my weight down and to keep fit.
...
Questions :-
Is it worthwhile to continue modernizing the bike, i.e. STI etc or leave it as it is is..?
Conversely, if to keep it period and standard, what parts do i need to look out for, i.e. ebay etc?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
I am a bit paranoid with the tubulars as I dont know what to do if I get a flat. Think of changing to clinchers and keeping the Wolbers to ride near the house. My LBS told me that the problem with building a new set of wheels is to find the right hubs and cassette since it is a 6 speed. Is this true? What is the max that I can fit, 7 speed? 8 speed?
TIA..
Regards
Sleme
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
This is my first posting. What a great site! Wealth of information...
I seek advise on my Colnago Mexico which I bought about 2 years ago. I ride about 2 - 3 times a week, usually recreationally to keep my weight down and to keep fit.
...
Questions :-
Is it worthwhile to continue modernizing the bike, i.e. STI etc or leave it as it is is..?
Conversely, if to keep it period and standard, what parts do i need to look out for, i.e. ebay etc?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
I am a bit paranoid with the tubulars as I dont know what to do if I get a flat. Think of changing to clinchers and keeping the Wolbers to ride near the house. My LBS told me that the problem with building a new set of wheels is to find the right hubs and cassette since it is a 6 speed. Is this true? What is the max that I can fit, 7 speed? 8 speed?
TIA..
Regards
Sleme
Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
riding with tubulars - carry a spare tubular in a 'tire sock' under your seat (thats what they were called when tubulars were it... and they, 'socks', were long and large enough to fit a folded sewup).
Some here hold to the idea that 'old' and 'vintage' bikes should be kept in their 'period'. As for me, I'm thinking that whatever is possible and desired by the owner, is okay. Want it to be an 'icon' of the past, great. Just want to ride it with as modern stuff as you can sensibly put on, okay also.
Modernizing - there are some functional things you can do without any structural changes to the frame. You're idea to go to clincher wheels is a good change. Not knowing what cycling parts availablity is like in Malaysia, there are sources on the US west coast for 'new' wheelsets that will fit into your rear dropouts and allow you to use 7 speed Shimano UNiglide cassettes (also come with one wheelset available) and set for 700c clinchers. PM me if you'd like a contact point.
The other 'modernization' that has benefits and is possible is going to index shifting. Even though there are real differences in the spacing from Shimanot to Campy index, they both seem to work well together on 7 spd systems. I currently have Campy C-record drivetrain components (index shifter & Derailleur) running beautifully on a shimano 7 spd Uniglide cassette wheel (on a Colnago Master); as well as Suntour Index stuff running both on Suntour Winner Ultra 7 freewheels as well as a Shimano uniglide cassette wheel.
So its all doable.
STI - haven't tried it yet, but I do have a right side STI Brifter ready to go on when and if I get the itch.
Compact Crankset - done that on my Colnago Super, and its made it a much more versatile machine for riding the very varied terrain (flats all the way to heavy mountain climbing) in my area.
Not being a 'weight weenie' makes 'modernizing' a very easy thing. And if you have a particulary nice piece of vintage component that you like, then put it away in a box for that time when the mood strikes to make your bike full vintage. Otherwise don;t shy away from changes that you think might make riding more fun for you.
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Thanks for the great advise. My problem with the LBS here is that they generally stock up on the newest, latest and fanciest. Usually when the see my bike they will go wow classic colnago etc.. but when I ask of options, the impression I am always given is that I should hang up the Colnago in the living room and buy the latest Giant or Trek on display in their shop. I however enjoy my bike and although old, I feel that it rides better than most of the newer more modern budget to mid priced bikes...
On the paint job..I think i will hold it off. There is only superficial chips and scratches and I think i'd rather live with it than to risk a botched paint job.
I would be grateful if you could 'teach' me the secrets to tubulars, i.e. how do you keep a spare tubular with a base coat on it? I agree they ride better than clinchers but I am always worried about getting a flat.
Thanks again for the information...
sleme!!
On the paint job..I think i will hold it off. There is only superficial chips and scratches and I think i'd rather live with it than to risk a botched paint job.
I would be grateful if you could 'teach' me the secrets to tubulars, i.e. how do you keep a spare tubular with a base coat on it? I agree they ride better than clinchers but I am always worried about getting a flat.
Thanks again for the information...
sleme!!
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sleme, right click on my screen name and send me a personal message with your e-mail id if you'd like me to send you what I have on tubular information. I got it from a fellow who has been riding and racing since the mid 50's, and who owns a bike shop in California.
As for keeping a spare with a base coat: You put the glue on the base tape, for the entire length of the base tape. Let it get tacky, and then hold the tire at the stem. Press the base tape together along the entire length. Then you can fold the tire in thirds or quarters, working as much air as possible out of the tire. You can ride with the tire secured under your seat either in a bag, in a "sock" or in a tubular tire holder.
You could do this with a new tire that has been stretched out, but I think a better idea is to make a used tire your spare. If you do this, you can skip applying more glue to the base tape if it is still tacky when you take it off.
I know what you mean about some LBSs (and some people). I have a 31 or 32 year old bike that I think is nearly the equal of the new bikes (of course I haven't actually tried riding new bikes so that could just be my imagination).
Take care,
Z
As for keeping a spare with a base coat: You put the glue on the base tape, for the entire length of the base tape. Let it get tacky, and then hold the tire at the stem. Press the base tape together along the entire length. Then you can fold the tire in thirds or quarters, working as much air as possible out of the tire. You can ride with the tire secured under your seat either in a bag, in a "sock" or in a tubular tire holder.
You could do this with a new tire that has been stretched out, but I think a better idea is to make a used tire your spare. If you do this, you can skip applying more glue to the base tape if it is still tacky when you take it off.
I know what you mean about some LBSs (and some people). I have a 31 or 32 year old bike that I think is nearly the equal of the new bikes (of course I haven't actually tried riding new bikes so that could just be my imagination).
Take care,
Z
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Originally Posted by sleme
...I seek advise on my Colnago Mexico which I bought about 2 years ago....if to keep it period and standard, what parts do i need to look out for, i.e. ebay etc?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
Is it recommended to give it a new coat of paint? What are the dos and donts for this?
I say leave the paint alone unless it's too ugly for you to look at. If you do decide to paint it, decal sets are available.
Your bike frame looks like it's from around '83-'85 to me.
Typical period components for a Colnago like yours would have been Campagnolo Super Record, with TTT stem/bars, Concor saddle, and Ambrosio rims. Then again, since they were also sold as framesets, they got built up with anything back then.
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Last edited by TheOtherGuy; 09-22-05 at 08:59 AM.
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The project has been completed!! The Colnago Mexico is now a Mexico Veloce. Wanting a modern bike, I was surrendered to the fact that due to compatability issues, I should leave the Mexico as it is and seek a modern bike. Working on a budget of the equivalent of US600-US700 (about 2500 Malaysian Ringgit) I went looking for a new bike but only to find that that kind of money would only afford me at most a Tiagra specced bike.
Until I meet the Colnago and Campy distributor in Malaysia who is an avid fan of old school bikes. He told me that I could put a Campy Veloce group on and it will be better than what I would get with my budget, new. I went with him. Its done.
The egro levers shift flawlessly. All 10 cogs of the rear cassette. The rear wheel is a snug fit at the rear frame of the bike, needing a gentle slight widening with my thumbs to fit it in. I am enjoying the bike tremendously and it is becoming a bit of a novelty among other riders in the group. Classic bike with modern parts...REceived numerous offers to sell.. even from the lbs!
I guess some might find it kinda blasphemous for me to update a classic like this..but hell...I enjoy the bike more now...still have a grin on my face when I ride.
So.. moral of the story, if any one with a Colnago MExico is thinking of this project, its been done. Here's a picture...
Thanks you for all the helpful advice and help...
Sleme...
Specs...
Colnago Mexico..Campy Veloce 10 speed Groupset...Centaur hubs with MAvic Reflex Tubular rims.
Until I meet the Colnago and Campy distributor in Malaysia who is an avid fan of old school bikes. He told me that I could put a Campy Veloce group on and it will be better than what I would get with my budget, new. I went with him. Its done.
The egro levers shift flawlessly. All 10 cogs of the rear cassette. The rear wheel is a snug fit at the rear frame of the bike, needing a gentle slight widening with my thumbs to fit it in. I am enjoying the bike tremendously and it is becoming a bit of a novelty among other riders in the group. Classic bike with modern parts...REceived numerous offers to sell.. even from the lbs!
I guess some might find it kinda blasphemous for me to update a classic like this..but hell...I enjoy the bike more now...still have a grin on my face when I ride.
So.. moral of the story, if any one with a Colnago MExico is thinking of this project, its been done. Here's a picture...
Thanks you for all the helpful advice and help...
Sleme...
Specs...
Colnago Mexico..Campy Veloce 10 speed Groupset...Centaur hubs with MAvic Reflex Tubular rims.
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sleme,
Glad it turned out as well for you as it did. That's a ride you should enjoy for years.
Glad it turned out as well for you as it did. That's a ride you should enjoy for years.
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Originally Posted by sleme
The project has been completed!! The Colnago Mexico is now a Mexico Veloce...SNIP..
I guess some might find it kinda blasphemous for me to update a classic like this..but hell...I enjoy the bike more now...still have a grin on my face when I ride.
Sleme...
I guess some might find it kinda blasphemous for me to update a classic like this..but hell...I enjoy the bike more now...still have a grin on my face when I ride.
Sleme...
nice job! there is no better purpose for any cycle, than to be in motion.
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This is a great story. I have a 1985 Colnago Mexico with Campy Super Record components (one owner - me) and have thought of modernizing it but haven't done it yet. I love the ride quality but after getting accustomed to indexed shifting on my newer (2006) bicycle, I really don't enjoy having to reach down to shift.
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Alot of dust on this one......
In regards to original spec....its interesting that sleme's bike had alot of 600EX componentry. When I bought my Mexico a few years ago it was all 600EX (all SR now) as well but I believe my bike to have been built from frameset as the components were date coded 84/85-ish whil my frame is clearly an '80+/-.
In regards to original spec....its interesting that sleme's bike had alot of 600EX componentry. When I bought my Mexico a few years ago it was all 600EX (all SR now) as well but I believe my bike to have been built from frameset as the components were date coded 84/85-ish whil my frame is clearly an '80+/-.
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