crobinson180908

Hi all,

This is my first post on Bikeforums! I've been lurking for a while now gleaning information from the wealth of knowledge that's here, and now I'm asking all of you for help. I just bought my first vintage bike off of Craigslist, a 3-speed step-through, made in Austria for Sears in 1971 (I think, based on an ad from that year I saw posted on this site that had a picture of a bike identical to mine). I plan on using it as a general commuter/errand runner/joy ride machine, and it's sporty but a good city bike at the same time. The frame and the components are in pretty good shape considering that the bike is twice as old as I am, but I wanted to ask what upgrades I should/could make and what would be a priority.

I rode it around a bit today and made the following observations: the front brake is stiff and has very little stopping power even on flat dry pavement, probably due to its age and the steel rims; the shifter cable going back to the coaster brake hub doesn't have any sort of housing and is bent/frayed in one place behind the chainguard/chainring; the tires are somewhat narrow, which might contribute to how I could feel a lot of bumps and rougher spots in the road; the gearing feels a little high - even in the first gear I wasn't exactly moving up inclines with ease. There are some other minor things to change like the discolored grips and lack of panniers to carry things, but that can wait until more important things like the brakes are fixed.

My question is, what should I fix first, and is there anything else I need to upgrade that I simply haven't thought of? Would I be better off ordering parts myself through places like Harris Cyclery or should I just trust my (road-and-mountain-bike-centered) LBS to have a catalogue I can order from? I'm definitely a beginner at this, but I really want to learn more and become a person who is proficient at all things biking-related.

Two additional questions: 1) Does anyone know of a competent bike mechanic in the Salisbury, NC area (zipcode 28144) who can deal with vintage bikes, and 2) What are the most effective/thief-deterrent bike locks available at a reasonable price? I would be heartbroken to upgrade my new machine only to have it stolen by some awful person from outside my apartment building (currently it's living on my stairwell, locked to itself with a Walmart U-lock).

rhenning

The only thing I would recommend is a general tune up and replace the brake pads with Kool Stop salmon colored pads. I believe the name for the pads is Continental. The brake for example just needs to be cleaned, adjusted and maybe have the cable replaced. You would do well to start using one of your local bike shops (LBS) as by the time you pay shipping they generally can match prices. I use LBSs for most of the things I buy and I have a large collection of bikes. If the LBS has a tune up special you may want to take advantage of that. As you deal with a LBS and they get to know you, you will be surprised at the deals they can give you. For what its worth you are not restoring a bike but making it road worthy. Roger

wrk101

Brakes, cables, bearings and grease are early must dos. If you can't/aren't interested in doing the work yourself, be careful. You can quickly become upside down on that bike value wise. In general, for people with the tools/time/aptitude/space/interest in working on them, project bikes can be a deal. But for people not interested in all that work, then buying a used bike in ready to ride condition is almost always the best deal. Paying to refurbish that bike could cost well over $200.

If first gear is not low enough for you, then it is really time to consider a different bike. If you want better gearing, I would consider a vintage MTB instead. They will have much better components, weigh a lot less, better (and more) gears, etc. I routinely see nice vintage (late 1980s to mid 1990s) rigid frame MTBs, from good companies, in ready to ride condition for $125 to $150.

A MTB will also easily handle wider tires, if you are so inclined, and usually have all the braze ons needed for fenders and racks.

Like the idea of changing the rear cog. That will certainly improve the gearing.

I have two of the Austrian Free Spirit 3 speeds myself. Picked them up to part them out, but I might rehab one.

gna

+1 on the Kool Stop Continentals. None of my local shops carry them, so I end up ordering off the internet.

What hub does this bike have? The Sears/Steyr 3-speeds I've seen all had the Sturmey-Archer AW copy, not a coaster brake, but you should be able to get a replacement cable that works with your hub. It's not unusual for the shift cable to have no housing past the fulcrum stop, and if it works I might clean it and keep using it. The gearing can be made easier with a larger rear cog, such as a 21T, but you will most likely need to replace the chain if you make the rear cog bigger.

Did you pump up the tires? You may need new tires and tubes, no doubt the 26 x 1-3/8 (590) size. Your LBS or the internet can help you.

rhm

^yup, GNA beat me to it. Changing the cog from the stock 18T to a 21T or 22T is an easy and very cheap way to lower the gearing, and will make the bike feel much lighter. Strongly recommended. As a result you may have to add a few links to the chain, or replace the chain, and you will have to adjust the brakes and hub, but no big deal. If you want to do it yourself, Niagara Cycle Supply or Bikepartsusa.com has a 22T cog that costs somewhere around $2.50 and, of course, all the tires, tubes, chains, etc. you might need. I'm not sure if they'll have the salmon colored brake shoes, though. If you'd rather spend money than time, your local bike shop should be happy to help.

Either way, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. Those are nice bikes. The hub is an Austrian made Styria or Steyr copy of the Sturmey Archer AW and like the latter it has a two digit date code, i.e. 68 = 1968. I've worked on a few of those bikes, and have a high opinion of them.

crobinson180908

Roger - Haha yes, you are correct about my improper use of "restoring". I think I just got carried away!

Gna- The shifter for the hub says "Torpedo Dreigang" and if I'm reading Sheldon Brown correctly it's a Sachs-made clone of a Sturmey-Archer hub. I haven't pumped up the tires at all since the guy I bought it from said he had done so a few days before I purchased it, and they don't seem to need it. Would there be any reason to replace them as long as they're not showing any serious wear and tear?

Sound advice all around. So, #1 acquire new brake pads, #2 go to the bike shop and get brakes/cables tuned, cleaned, and maybe replaced, #3 replace the rear cog and chain, #4 replace tires/tubes (?). #3 and 4 and some other minor things can wait until I can save up more money if needed. Thank you all for your help!

gna

Well, if the tires are ok, I'd let it go. I usually pump mine up once a week or so. I'd try to get them pumped up and then ride it.
I'm curious about the hub, as you said it's a coaster brake hub. I think the Torpedo 3-speed is a Sachs hub, not a SA copy, but check the bike. Whatever hub you have here, I would oil it and ride it. I'm not sure what cog it takes, but if it's a copy of a SA hub you have all sorts of choices.

bikamper

The Torpedo hub is it's own animal. Very nicely made. Probably a 515 if it's a coaster. Parts are hard to come by but can be had with a little hunting around. On the good news side, the SA cogs will fit it. As will Shimano 3 speed and some Bendix coaster cogs.

rhm

Yeah, bikamper is right, the Torpedo is not a Sturmey Archer clone. You said the shifter reads Torpedo; what about the hub? I believe a F&S trigger will work with a Sturmey Archer hub. Still, bikamper is probably right, if it's a coaster brake you probably have a 515. Either way, a larger cog --whether from Sturmey Archer or any other manufacturer-- will work fine. The Torpedo hub actually has a slightly wider range than the Sturmey Archer, though probably not wide enough for you to notice.

crobinson180908

After looking at the engraving on the hub, yep, it is a Sachs 515. Good to know that the rear cog is somewhat interchangeable. While comparing prices for brake pads and such online I keep wandering over to the accessories section and ogling bells, baskets, snazzy helmets, cork grips, new saddles, and so on. But I'm on a budget, so no pretty things just yet. Function over form, function over form!

For the techie folks - I found an exploded diagram of my hub with a Google search: https://vancruisers.ca/tech/manuals/s...rpedo.gif/view. In German, but perhaps useful to the ambitious bike mechanic (with a good translator close at hand).

3speedslow

I was late to the info flood you have received, all very good and CORRECT. I have these bikes in my stable as well. A ten speed too. You will enjoy.

Really have to add my thoughts on the regreasing advice. I don't care if it seems to roll fine or move smoothly, it HAS OLD GREASE AND NEEDS NEW STUFF DESPERATELY ! You will add longevity to the bike and less resistance as you go down the road.

oh, and look for a better saddle. It might seem fine now. But as the miles grow, so will the discomfort.

3SS

kurtnyc

know this post is old, but just wanted to say thanks to everyone who posted, as it helped push me to get my own austrian sears - today! -and a shopping list to go with it. first time I've posted here, but the reading has been great and will no doubt inspire me to get into all sorts of trouble learning how to tune this up for brooklyn streets and become a rider again.

rhm

Good to hear, Kurt! Watch out for the nut on the little red folding bike on 8th Avenue, 'cuz that's me.