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Some questions on my 87 Schwinn....

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Some questions on my 87 Schwinn....

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Old 06-23-11, 11:07 AM
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Teon
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Some questions on my 87 Schwinn....

Figured I better post this here.....mistakenly posted this over on the mechanic board...oops.

Finally took my 1987 Schwinn traveler 12 speed out for a somewhat longer ride tonight, after replacing the tires, adjusting brakes, checking the bike out on short rides, etc.....

Some noob questions......

I get a little bit of a low frequency vibration when I am peddling from a low speed in a high gear.....my tires are a tad low....not sure if this is due to tires or something else.....tires are brand new panaracer panelas, 27x1-1/4.....psi should probably be around 90-95, probably currently around 85psi+.

Some brief, but very noticeable chain slap when going along at a decent speed and then stopping pedaling and coasting.....enough to leave a lot of chain grease on the horizontal frame member just below the chain....does the rear derailer tension need to be adjusted, or is it possible that with the age of the bike, the chain needs to be replaced, or maybe the rear derailer.......or is this just normal for an older bike? (I seem to remember a lot of chain slap with my older 10 speed when I was a youngster.....)

A bit of noticeable flex in the handlebars at times......am already thinking of changing the stem to get the handlebars somewhat higher....and figured I would change the handlebars at the same time.....any suggestions for better drop handlebars?

A lot of this might just be due to my size.....am a clydesdale (mid 250s and 6'-0")

Last question.....would I be wise, with the age of the bike to clean and re-grease all the bearings?

And, fwiw, am loving the ride of the bike.....really handles well and is quite comfortable to ride.....definitely a keeper. Also, I want to do the work on the bike myself, if possible.

Thanks for any help!

Last edited by Teon; 06-23-11 at 11:15 AM.
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Old 06-23-11, 11:40 AM
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Your chain slap sounds like a dirty or partially gummed up RD. The spring should keep tention on the chain. Do a thourough cleaning with a degreaser and then lubricate well. See if that frees up the DR. Here is a good video:

http://www.howcast.com/videos/167194...ear-Derailleur

On both my older Schwinns, I replaced the stock bars with new 42cm alloy ones, for two reasons. First, they were both steel, and second, I tried to keep some consistency with the newer bikes I ride. I really like the wider bars, and I like the tighter drop geometry. For me, its much more comfortable. I got both bars on sale at Nashbar. Both were cheaper FSA, but you can look for whatever you want. Just pay attention to width. In both cases, I did not have to replace the stems.

Your vibration could be a number of things. But you specifically mention gear and speed. Is the vibration not present while coasting at the same speed?
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Old 06-23-11, 11:52 AM
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Thanks, beach, I'll try that on the RD!

The vibration is very, very brief....only happened when I just started to pedal after coasting to a slower speed....I hadn't bothered to shift down, and was in 10th speed,(bike is a 12 speed) going around 5-6mph when I started to pedal.....and like I said....a very, very brief vibration, after 1 full revolution of the crank it was gone....it might not be anything. It didn't feel like it was coming from the crank....felt more behind me. The bike is smooth as silk with no other odd sounds/vibrations at all gears/speeds/coasting, otherwise.(besides the chainslap).

I'll try and duplicate the conditions on my ride tonight, and see if I feel the vibration, again.

Thanks for the advice on the bars, too. I like the wider bars on the newer bikes, as they do give a bit more room for hand placement. Am also thinking about getting another stem that will allow me to bring the bars up a bit higher. I'll wait on the stem until I go on some longer rides and see how my old back does....lol.

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Old 06-23-11, 12:21 PM
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It sounds like the vibration occurs during heavy torque - applying a lot of force to get you started while in a high gear, On your ride today, maybe try starts in a bunch of gears and be conscious of how much force you are applying to the cranks. See what you come up with.

I doubt its being caused by the DR. and you don't believe its coming from the cranks. That really only leaves the wheel. The hub could be loose - by that I mean either the cone nut has worked its way a little loose, or the bearings/cones themselves have worn down a little bit - allowing the axle to slightly move laterally. You may only feel it at lower speeds simply because the centrifugal force of a fast spinning wheel tends to keep it somewhat stable.

Obviously thats pure theory - but if you notice it again, pop the rear wheel, grasp the axle, and see if you can move it back and force. Also check to see if there is any play in the freewheel itself.

Good luck!
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Old 06-23-11, 12:55 PM
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Excellent advice, Beach! Thanks! I'll put it through some different sorts of torque at all sorts of gears, and then I'll also check the rear wheel as recommended.
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Old 06-23-11, 01:00 PM
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On any bike of that age, step one is to replace bearings and grease. I have yet to have found a 20+ year old bike that did not need that work, and thats with buying a couple of hundred of them.
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Old 06-23-11, 01:10 PM
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Thanks, wrk.....I have been hearing that a lot, and it actually sounds like something that I would enjoy doing. I have really enjoyed the time in the past several days that I have been spending in the garage, radio blaring, tinkering with both my bikes and sipping on an icy cold one.

Would I have difficulty finding replacement bearings for my '87 Schwinn Traveler?
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Old 06-23-11, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Teon View Post
Thanks, wrk.....I have been hearing that a lot, and it actually sounds like something that I would enjoy doing. I have really enjoyed the time in the past several days that I have been spending in the garage, radio blaring, tinkering with both my bikes and sipping on an icy cold one.

Would I have difficulty finding replacement bearings for my '87 Schwinn Traveler?
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I just love riding a vintage road bike. The smooth speed and quick response of the steel has to be one of the most enjoyable experiences I know.

My bikes: 58cm '72 Schwinn World Voyageur, 24" '79 Trek 930, 58cm '84 Schwinn Letour Luxe, with couplers, 61cm '92 Schwinn Paramount (Panasonic) [Incoming: 60cm '88 Centurion Ironman Expert, 24" '80 Trek 414]
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Old 06-23-11, 09:49 PM
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Well, I'm certain that wrk101 is absolutely correct about needing to do an overhaul and bearing clean and regrease. I also think that the RD needs to be cleaned and re-lubed, per Beach's suggestions. I rode tonight again......another really nice evening for it.....headwind going out and a tail wind coming back....rode for about 40 minutes. I could not duplicate the vibration that I was feeling yesterday, but toward the end of the ride I started to notice a slight clicking noise coming from the rear.

So I got it home, and pedaled it by hand to see if I could hear the clicking noise......nope.....I only hear it when I am on the bike.....so I am thinking, yea, the bearing grease is probably all gummed up and now I'm getting a bearing that's clicking a tad under stress. Also, another thing I noticed, and maybe I am wrong about this, being a noob......

Shouldn't the rear wheel spin freely(in the normal riding direction) and not move the pedals at all? Let me try to explain.....the wheel spins freely when I hold the pedals with my hand, or when I am out riding.....it coasts nicely...or at least seems to. But when I have it at home, and lift up the back end, spin the wheel in the drive direction, it spins freely, but then when I let go of the pedals, the pedals want to move with the wheel. Should it do that? Or is that another sign that something is not functioning properly with the hub/freewheel/etc??

Anyways, I am planning on tearing down the back wheel and soon. The slight clicking sound makes me think that I might be tearing up a bearing, so the sooner I get to it, the better. And fwiw, I did check the hub with my hand after the ride, and it didn't feel warm at all, so I would assume that means that at least nothing is starting to seize up....yet.

Any hints/tips/advice as to what I should do at this point would be welcomed. Here are my first thoughts on it all.....clean and regrease RD, disassemble rear hub and clean/regrease/replace bearings, and readjust properly(this all will be a very fun learning experience, imo), and replace chain. That's for starters. Then I'll move onto the front hub and fork head bearings(not sure of the terminology), and then the crank bearings.

Needless to say, I plan on doing a lot of reading at both Sheldon Brown's site as well as Park Tool....try to get as much info as I can into my head before I tear into the rear hub and such.

I truly love the ride of this bike, and have absolutely no plans to get rid of the thing.....I want to work on it and get it to a point of excellent/very reliable condition so that I can do longer rides with it. And it doesn't matter how long I might have it torn apart, as I have my mtb as a backup, and I have plenty of room in the garage. Plus I want to learn on this bike so that I continue to do the same with other bikes....

I had about 20 minutes on my ride tonight where I wasn't toying with the bike, or checking for noises, or any of that.....I was just enjoying the ride.....really enjoying it......I had forgotten how much I loved riding a road bike......

Except for the first mile.....as I got on the bike and thought, "damn my butt hurts!!!"....fortunately it didn't last long....this road bike has a different seat and riding position than the mtb, as my butt never felt like this on the mtb. I remember this kind of pain after going for long rides on my old 10 speed when I was a youngster....lol.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Edit: Any sorts of special tools I should pick up for this that might make it all a bit easier?

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Old 06-24-11, 04:49 AM
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When you change the chain, follow the instructions for getting the proper length. Too long of a chain is also a cause of chain slap. So, you will need a chain breaker.

You will also need a crank puller for the crank bearings, as well as a spanner for the bottom bracket. Cone wrenches for the wheel hubs. That should get you started. Instead of buying all the tools individually, check out the tool kits from Nashbar, etc. that have everything together.

My wife has an 88 Traveler, it does ride nice. I wouldn't mind having one myself.
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Old 06-24-11, 05:40 AM
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The problem you are having with chain slap is a gummed up Freewheel or free hub body it is also why your crank wants to keep turning when there is no load on it, that is also the clicking noise you here if you couldn't hear it before then it is really gummed up and needs a good servicing. The first thing you need to do is find out if you have a freewheel or a cassette with a free hub, a freewheel the whole cog assy unscrews from the wheel in one piece a cassette is held onto a seperate hub with a lockring.

Glenn

You can look here to find out the difference between the two and get tips on how to service them http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...ewheel-removal

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Old 06-24-11, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for the responses and the advice!

I'm sure it's a freewheel, Glenn....thanks for the link as that is very helpful. Guess I need to first figure out exactly what type/size of removal tool I will need.

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Old 06-24-11, 11:01 AM
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Since I'm going to be diving head first into tearing apart the rear wheel hub/freewheel, I'm thinking that while I'm at it, I might as well replace the freewheel with a 7 speed freewheel. Sheldon's site says there is no problem or mods that need to be made, and that the derailer should be able to handle it with no problem, and I have friction shifters, so I don't see any problems with doing that. Only decision I would need to make is whether I want a normal range 7 speed, or the one with the granny gear.(There are some decent hills around here)

Anything else I should be aware of if I decide to replace the 6 speed freewheel with a 7 speed?



Thanks!

Last edited by Teon; 06-24-11 at 11:17 AM.
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