mtnbke

Okay, I've got an '86 Cannondale ST800 which I'm very happy with. They made it in the 27" size that was so prevalent then, and big frames are non-existent in modern cycling. I tried a Giant OCR1 in XL which was supposed to fit like a much larger bike, but in reality it was a small bike, compact geometry or not.

The seat collar on the OCR1 measured out at around 57cm.
The seat collar on the vintage Cannondale touring bikes measures out around 73cm.

So before I get off on some rant about the "missing" sizes in the compact geometry lineup, does anyone have any information about old Cannondale touring frames?

Its accepted as fact that vintage Cannondale frames were the same across the offerings, the difference being paint. Certainly this was true up until at least the 3.0 Series frames, I don't know about the 2.8s.

So I want to repaint a 27" Cannondale frame I will be getting soon. Its definitely got some paint problems. I've heard that using abrasives to blast the paint off will remove aluminum, unlike with steel frames where this is a useful way to clean the frames. So what do people do? I've heard of people using some airplane paint remover, but that just sounds like toxic fume city.

What have you used to restore a vintage aluminum bike (been makin' em since around 1900)?

I live in Boulder County in Colorado. Any good bike painters in Colorado? I keep hearing the names CycleArt in Canada, and Joe Bell. What does a top rate repaint cost? What is the going rate for a good repaint with decals etc. from someone capable, even if their name isn't synomous with restorations on $10k bikes?

Thanks for any input you can offer.

rccardr 

That series of ST frame is my personal all-time Cannondale vintage favorite. I have, um, five of them at last count, including the one pictured below (which has since received a nicer set of wheels, tires and wrap). All are 23's and I just seem to keep running across them at good prices. Go figure.

Best way to refinish that frame in my opinion is to work with an experienced powder coater who knows aluminum. They can be stripped and blasted without hurting the surface or frame integrity if you know what you're doing. The guy I use is Len McCreary at Figure LLC in Manassas Park, VA. Don't have his number handy right now, but you can look him up online and tell him Doc sent you. Great guy, a biker, QUALITY work (he's done 15-20 frames for me and they have all been perfect), good businessman, quick turnaround time. Not cheap, but he'll do a one-color non-metallic job for about $200 (more for multiple colors, metallics and graphics- he can even do logos and pinstripes) and that's less than any of the name bike paint shops. I'm sure he would accept a shipped frame and re-ship it back to you when done. If not, you can ship it to me and I'll take it out with my next batch.

Back in the mid 80's Cannondale made two frame series: SR (sports/racing) and ST (sports/touring). The SR's had a tighter Crit-style geometry (although later on they separated the SR's into Crit/Road designations by giving them different downtube diameters and headtube angles), and the ST's were more relaxed with attachment points for racks and three sets of bottle braze-ons. Eventually the upper end ST frames became super-specialized touring rigs with canti brakes.

Hard to beat a nice 83-88 ST for a reliable, comfortable, fast daily rider.

mtnbke

Good link.

That's actually how I found out about the 27" size touring Cannondales. Before that my grail bike was the frame-only 66cm 'dale (stopped making at CAAD5) but still available as late as last year, I think.

I don't know why the old ST800 and ST1000 don't get more interest from the Bobish and Rivendell crowd. Smartly equipped these bikes are lighter, stronger, and faster than a Riv, and instead of building a modern bike to look smartly vintage, they actually were.

You can't complain with a factory spec of:

Brooks saddle, American Classic post, Nitto bars, barcons, Superbe Superbe Pro derailleurs (including ultra rare long GT cage), front & rear rack factory painted to match frame, full fenders, cages factory painted to match frame, Superbe clip pedals, Cannondale branded leather straps to match Brooks, Sugino Alpine triple crank w/granny step touring gearing.

Well I shelved the interest in the 66cm 'dale as soon as I learned about the 27" bikes. My 27" ST800 is about 2.5cm larger than a 66cm C'Dale, and much much larger than my old 63cm 3.0 Series (which I sold). The tubing on the old touring bikes and the more modern C'dales arent' the same diameter, so its hard to use c-c and c-t with context. As the diameter of the tubing increases the context of using those two measurements to discuss frame size changes as well. For vintage Cannondales I measure from the center of the crank bolt to the top of the seat collar for this reason.

Case in point, my 63cm 3.0 Series C'dale was 66cm at the seat collar, while the 27" touring bike is 73cm.

Definitely looking for a repaint. How do you add decals after a powder coat?

rccardr 

Two ways: Either have the powder coater do the decals (I think they are actually water based paint graphics, but Len could explain better) and then clear coat over them, or do high performance cut vinyl (which is what I do). The vinyl lasts well (surprise!) and you can get complete vintage decal sets through the Vintage Cannondale site in white, black, red and gold.

runair

Man you must be a big boy! My first alum. bike was an advertised 25" 1986 ST500 frame I purchased on Ebay. When it arrived, turned out to be a 27 incher. I built it up with 27" wheels and a bunch of "in the day" components. It's been my go-to ride for day-long, high mileage, out-in-the-country excursions. It is the most comfortable, stable ride I've ever had (I go back a ways with my first Peugeot UO8 purchased new in '73).

I usually take a 63cm or 25" bike. This Cannondale is a huge monster. I'm 6'4" and can just clear the TT. If you need a 27" you have got to be up there in altitude. Either that or you have stilts for legs. I am really a steel guy but have enjoyed the ST500 so much I added a 63cm SR. It's a nice faster ride. It's amazing how a little change in wheel base can impact the ride characteristics so much. My latest addition is an '83 ST500, another Ebay purchase. This is the first year for Cannondale bikes. It was displayed as a real basket case and I ended up being the only bidder. Little did folks know that under all that dirt, grime and rust (wheel spokes) was an amazing, bone stock piece of history. I rebuilt it and am anticipating making it my favorite ride when spring comes.

Regarding paint: My '86 ST500 came in the metallic blue and had some chips and paint missing. I was going to repaint but the color and finish is so nice I've left it for now. Shows much better than the white SR and Metallic Charcoal '83. My recommendation is to do it in the blue metallic as a two part base/clear coat. It truly is a beautiful combination!!!! You can check it out at: https://sanaandterry.com/cannondale/year/1986/1986.pdf

Interesting factoid: the '83 ST500 DT is 1-1/2" while the '86 ST and SR are 1-3/4". Not much difference but the visual impact is very noticeable.

sportridertex

I have a beautiful stock condition Cannondale SR500, but after riding it, I think a ST500 would be more my style, just where to find it?

lubers

Here's some pictures of my ST400 that I had repainted and upgraded:



[IMG][/IMG]

Sirrus Rider

What bars are those? Dirt Drops?

lubers

They are WTB Mountain Drop Bars.

runair

Well if you really want an ST500 mine is for sale. As I now have the 25" my 27" is not likely to see many miles from me. Rather let someone else receive the pleasure of its ride than hang it in the garage and look adoring at it.

sportridertex

Heh RunAir;


Nice offer, but I'm 5'11" and currently riding a 58cm, not sure something bigger would be a fit.

runair

This one definitely won't work. One unplanned slip on the pedals would require you change your section in the choir.

wrk101

I have had several Cannondale touring bikes from the 1980s. Found them at the usual places: C/L, garage sales, ebay, wherever. But not a single time did the seller describe the bike properly, or give the proper model name. So I had to chase after some poorly defined bikes. You should also train your eyes to spot them. Here's a 1987 T600, as found at a garage sale. MTB flat bar and stem, twist grip shifters, OUCH!!

I also had a 1985 ST500.

All of the mid to late 80s Cannondales I have had came with marginal paint. It seems to chip very easily.

rccardr 

I have a couple of 23" ST frames and bikes- PM me for details.

mtnbke

Okay, in all fairness comparing a vintage 'dale ST touring bike to the later T touring bikes is like comparing a Rivendell to a Dorel GT. Sorry, Cannondale fans for the Dorel reference.

mtnbke

Any other repainted C'dales out there? If so who did you use, do you like the way the bike came out (why/why not), and how much?

4Rings6Stars

Hmm I brush-painted it myself. I love it. It cost about $35 (including $20 for decals). It was a X-mas present for my girlfriend and I'm still in the process of getting it on the road for spring.



p.s. Doc - While I'm on the topic of this bike, I got the cable stop. It will take some creativity but I think I will be able to make it work. Thanks again!

Ronno6

I own several (10 '85 - '88 race frames/bikes, '89 3.0, 2 CAD3's 63cm, a CAD3 66cm, Cad4, CAAD5, ) racing 'Dales, an 88 25" ST and 2 '89 ST's on 27" frame. All are 63's except the 66cm and the ST's.The 27" ST's are currently undergoing restoration,upgrading with the intention of doing some loaded touring.
I've had 6 of then powder coated with mixed results. I used to paint bikes, so maybe I'm too critical (I always was of my own work.) I always shoot a clear coat of DuPont Nason Poly over the powder and decals. I have had 1 frame have corrosion problems under the powder, around the top tube cable guides and under the top tube, as well as at the head tube pump peg. Seems like any place there is a hole in the frame, corrosion can start. At any rate, I much prefer an epoxy primer, then base coat/clear coat finish. I used to use Imron, but the good stuff is no longer available.
At any rate, I've always preferred chemical stripping. Not too hazardous fumes. Media blasting is OK as long as the blaster uses the right media. Sandblasting is EXTREMELY FORBIDDEN, as it stress relieves the heat treated welded aluminum frame. AVOID !!
Here's some pics of the first 27" ST after powder, decals, and clear coats. Color is Blue Explosion and is a real eye opener. It is a flip-flop powder that appears almost black to brilliant metallic blue. The pics do not do it justice. Good luck.

Ronno6

Do you still have the 27" ST??
Details, please!

Ronno6

Here are a few more that I've done. The neon yellow is House of Colors over epoxy primer, then clear coated. I painted it about 15 years ago! The others, including the candy red, are all powder w/clear Nason.
BTW I have found it unnecessary to scuff the powder before clearcoating with Nason, and have had zero adhesion problems.

Chris_in_Miami

Nice work Ron, the neon is very cool!

skyzo

With my '84 st, I just decided to strip the paint and polish up the aluminum. Looks awesome! Not many bare aluminum bikes around. I'll get my camera and take a pic tommorow.

Ronno6

As much as I may hate to admit it, I shot my 63cm 3.0 frame using Ace zinc chromate primer, followed by 2 coats of black Rustoleum Automotive enamel, topped by 2 coats of Rustoleum Crystal Clear enamel. The results are astonishing! The clear coat can be rubbed out to remove any hint of orange peal (which was minimal to start with) and it is every bit as nice a finish as my powder coated or urethaned bikes. This bike will be used as a knock around/training bike, so I'll see how hard the paint is and how well the finish holds up. But, for a cheap rattle-can job, I am impressed! (Not easily done!)
Only problem is, if the coats are applied per directions, Be very cautious about applying decals! As the paint is not reasonably cured for 2 days, removing the adhesive matrix around the decals may remove the paint! I recommend waiting minimum of 2 days, wet sanding w/ 600 grit, applying decals, then spraying on another couple of coats of clear. As I had some mishaps with that, I may restrip and shoot again. (Once again, my fussy nature with my bike paint jobs.) But, IT IS INEXPENSIVE !!
My second 27" ST I plan on shooting Pearl White. We'll see how that goes......

runair

Man by the length of that seat post, you must be one big boy, yes? Nice paint jobs. I may try your method to one of my Cannondales. Looks great in the pic.

Ronno6

Thanks for the kind words.
Yup. 6'6" ( or, 5'18" I like to say.) Hence the 27" 'Dales I own. Are you still interested in selling yours?

I rode 27" frame Fuji Royale's before switching to the 'Dales in about 1987 or so.