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a picture's worth a thousand words. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU2yKPRglaM
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Thank you for the video!
Also, here is a picture of why I think it needs truing. Am I correct in my assumption? Or is there something I may have done wrong putting the wheel back onto the bicycle? http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6204/...a10092ca_m.jpg Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr (Click for larger image) edit: Only 50 seconds into this video and it already makes so much sense! edit: Now that I think about it, the wheel truing may not be the issue... The wheel rubs on the pad (or vise-versa) a lot, rather than in one or two spots. So I tightened up the nuts, and now it is too far to the right, rubbing the other pad. How loose can these be? It will not line up correctly without one of the nuts being looser than feels comfortable, and the wheel wobbles to and fro. http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/...f59f12f5_m.jpg Untitled by uRabbit_foto, on Flickr EUREKA! My bicycle is now ride-able! Now to adjust the brakes so that the front of them touches first, and to pump up the front a bit. Not sure I have the correct size wrench for the brakes though. And I need a hand pump. And, and, and! |
ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!! Welcome to being a cyclist!
Are those sidepull weinmans or however it's spelled? (the brakes) cool to see something other then the standard top pull diacompes my schwinn has the latter, but it's relatively younger then yours ;) |
I feel like such a noob! Haha! But at least I figured it out - and it was a bit fun trying to get it centered.
I am not sure what they are - gotta remember, I am barebones noob material here! Haha |
Would it make you feel any better to know I've only had the bicycling bug for 3-4 months now? And is there anything else basic enough for me to help ya with? ;)
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No it does not help! Look at all your bicycles and your knowledge! Ha
Well, I am still having issues with shifting. Cannot seem to get into 2 or 3. I can get between HI and LO with acceptable ease. |
Friction Shifters on the handlebar stem right? And we're talking about changing the rear gear I am assuming by first do you mean the smallest gear on the outside of the cogs? There could be a couple problems I can think of off the top of my head number one, is the cable wasn't tensioned right on the rear deraileur, two is you just need to adjust the maximum arm reach screws, there should be two screws side by side on the derailer, one controls the reach out from the frame the other in towards the wheel, it took me a LONG time the first time I did it but I learned a lot. And yes having a lot of bikes does indeed help me, but only in the sense it forces me to learn to address many more problems. Other then the Peugeot all mine are salvaged from the dumps, and then tuned up/repaired/or repainted by me, made me learn A LOT really really fast.
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Wish I could find a bicycle dump in my area!
I will look into what you suggested, Googling how-to's and what-not. And seeing what tools I need. Most likely, however, I will have to wait till I go to Boise Bicycle Project. |
It isn't a bicycle dump, our local dumps have recycling yards in them, you can buy peoples old "trash" for almost scrap prices. I'd guess most urban areas probably have them.. but then again I didn't see anything like them in Ohio when I lived there. With the one bike I think you should be able to get an ideal toolset for fairly cheap for it.. you'll just need to know what size wrenchs etc I'm sure that bicycle project place will help you out a lot.
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Emailed an older guy who sells bicycle parts on Craigslist. Here was his response:
Sorry for the blank I probably sent. Dave, I have the NEW tools and parts you need and I will save you about half. 1. a compact tool set (folds together) for $12 with all the Allen wrenches and sockets to fit any bike (this retails for $30). 2. several compact pumps - all from $8 to $16 that will attach to your frame . 3. a double sized patch kit (in a clever box) that contains a bunch of patches and the plastic tools to remove your tube/tire easily. $5.50 or smaller kits from $3.50. 4. I sell helmets and safety gear at absolute cost: I have a dozen in hand (all but 2 new) from $12 to $35 in all sizes/colors for road or mountain or both. So, all that would set you back about $40 to $50! If you bring your bike I will give you a free safety inspection and make sure that your fit is good on the bike. I have lots of accessories that you can pick up as you go -- stuff on the bike and stuff for you to wear. These are all premium products and this is NOT a business, it is my retirement hobby, and I am a rider as well (starting back in that 3 to 5 cog era). If I don't have something, like a part, I will help you find it either with a LBS or on the internet. Call me at [omitted] an we can meet at your convenience as I am home most days and evenings. Come take a look and thank for the inquiry. |
That guy sounds awesome and the prices seem reasonable to my untrained eye, but I'd keep an eye on the brands or at least ask him about them just to make sure you aren't cheaping out to far on important things!
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Sounds like a nice guy, can't hurt to check it out. If it turns out to be shady, you can always say "no thanks".
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Originally Posted by uRabbit
(Post 13082832)
Also, beginner gear - I will not be riding this bicycle avidly until next spring, as I need to accumulate gear. I would like to know the bare essentials - I plan to do mostly DIY repairs/maintenance, if it does not take too many expensive tools.
Thanks all! |
Went to the Craigslist guy. Seems like a decent guy, alright. Injured himself in a few triathlon competitions, causing some hematoma, so he is alright in my book! Haha.
When I get onto my computer, I will make a list of the items I got and show you all what I paid. :) While I was over there, I was showing him my issue with shifting, and he pointed out that my cable was super loose! Ha! However, in the process, the rear shifter cable snapped. Haha! Well, should be fun. Ha. He says he can get those cheap also. He also has plans to set me up with a new set of tires and tubes. Front tires is showing its age, with some separation starting. When I was putting the front wheel back on, I had a little difficulty again getting it lined up. Is there some trick I need to know? Also, I had to shove it past the brake shoes. Is this okay? Does not seem like it should be normal... So, back to shifting these stem shifter levers... What is the madness behind it? Let's say, for the front gears (HI and LO or small and big). To shift into the HI/small gear, I have it up? And for LO/big gear, I have it down? This would all be so much easier with a repair stand and the appropriate tools! Argh! |
Two simple choices for the front wheel, don't air the tire till it's mounted (probably the better) or unhook your brake cable while you mount the wheel. In theory if your wheel is locked in place and true and the right spacing for the frame and the frame is straight, simply tightening properly will align the wheel. And yes that's how it works for those friction shifters... fun isn't it? it's because the front derailer starts inside on it's spring arm, so your pulling it back over to the larger gear. The back is the opposite the spring arm you set to start at the outside gear, and it then pulls to the inside. Reversed arm directions, reverse levers... I don't get it either but hey we're not bike gurus. (A note on rear wheels) If you have the axle unevenly spaced in the drop outs in the rear, you will have an issue, but it's easy to tell just look at the seat stays etc, and see that the wheel lines up in the center of the arch.
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Here is what I scored today.
http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6072/...17e91c6e_m.jpg - used Bontrager seat (free) - Road Rage road lube - Power Beam head lamp x2 - Rear lamp x2 - Reumafonds patch kit w/ 2 tire levers - Sette 100 psi mini hand pump - Schwinn helmet Total of $67. :thumb: Gotta love local retired cyclists! |
Started a build thread here.
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Would the Park Tools SK-1 be a good buy @ $75?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20 It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that. I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance. |
Originally Posted by uRabbit
(Post 13110961)
Would the Park Tools SK-1 be a good buy @ $75?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ag=invihand-20 It is frustrating not having all the tools, and it would make sense that a tool kit would be a better buy than individual tools. I would like to be able to do almost anything on my bicycle. I don't think I really want to get into derailleurs, brake lines, or stuff like that. I would like to be able to lube the hubs, replace the chain, maybe the cassettes also, and general maintenance. Park Tools also has tutorials on their website on how to do certain things on the bike. We all had to start somewhere as a bike mechanic, my start was around 8 years old.:lol: Aaron :) |
You're lucky, Aaron - I never had the opportunities for much as a kid. My parents sheltered me in more ways than one. Ha.
I already know about that site. It is bookmarked and... *checks* it is actually open in a tab right now. :) That Park tool kit LOOKS like it has everything I absolutely need. And I could throw some of the more essential items in my backpack when I go on rides. I think I might get that kit. Was HOPING to find something as inclusive, for under $50. |
Nice score, and I personally can't answer on tools. I've been buying 1 at a time as needed, but I already owned a good mechanics toolset and a ton of other random tools from all my years handymanning/working in construction etc. But as the other guy said, you can't go wrong with Park, I go out of my way to make sure I get Park when I need a bike specific tool. My next one is probably going to be the spoke tensionometer for building my own wheels.. under 50 for a tool kit? I'll see what I can find.
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Thanks, RaleighSport! I have a list on my other thread of tools that I think I need. Feels like I am missing some things though.
As for a repair stand, I am hoping to get a trunk rack for our bicycles that could double as a repair stand. Most likely, however, I will attempt to build one. :) |
Picked up a '74 for my wife. Added it to my build thread. See it here.
Also picked up some cleaner for the paint and non-mechanical metals, which can also be seen at the above link. I found out about a shop in-town. The gal who sold us the '74 Schwinn said they charge $25/hr, and when they replaced two of her spokes, it took them 15 minutes. She says she went to high school with the guys who own/work there. Is $25/hr a good rate. I do not intend to become a professional bicycle repair guru, so I will have to find a place to do some work. Work such as replacing my gear cable. I would like to do general tune-ups. Possibly the most mechanically-detailed thing I will do is lubing the hubs. I plan to do this when I get my tools. I am still going around in circles over tools. The Park Tools SK-1 is $75 on Amazon, but it has some things I don't need and some things are missing that I do need, such as 8mm and 10mm wrenches for adjusting the brake housing (is that what it's called?). |
Best tools I have picked up so far are 2 books on bicycle maintenance. I went to my local Half Price Books (discount book shop) and ended up picking up a new one and an old one. They complement each other really well. Here are a few links to the books themselves:
The old one: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-...3978972&sr=8-1 The new one: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Comp...3979034&sr=1-1 (There is a newer version of this out. This was the newest one they had.) Hope that helps. |
Originally Posted by Chef Bigs
(Post 13113566)
Best tools I have picked up so far are 2 books on bicycle maintenance. I went to my local Half Price Books (discount book shop) and ended up picking up a new one and an old one. They complement each other really well. Here are a few links to the books themselves:
The old one: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-...3978972&sr=8-1 The new one: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Comp...3979034&sr=1-1 (There is a newer version of this out. This was the newest one they had.) Hope that helps. Which brings me to that. I have compiled a list on amazon of the tools that I think may suit me well, for now. Here it is: Park Tool SK-1 Home Mechanic Starter Tool Kit Park Tool DCW-2 Double Ended Cone Wrench (15mm and 16mm) (kit comes w/ only 1) Park Tool DCW-1 Double Ended Cone Wrench (13mm and 14mm) (kit comes w/ only 1) Park Tool CBW-1 Metric Wrench with 8mm and 10mm Open Ends (do I need two?) Park Tool CBW-4 Metric Wrench with 9mm and 11mm Open Ends (do I need two?) edit: Total = $100 w/ free shipping. Good deal? Any advice? More items? |
Replacing cable is so much simpler than regreasing hubs imho.
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Originally Posted by JReade
(Post 13113796)
Replacing cable is so much simpler than regreasing hubs imho.
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Originally Posted by JReade
(Post 13113796)
Replacing cable is so much simpler than regreasing hubs imho.
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Thanks for the heads-up, RaleighSport.
I cannot find a guide on how to do gear cables. Brake cables, ya, but not gear. |
I'll try to outline this simply (But I happen to own carpenter clamps so it might not work for you.)First undo the cable from the derailer, then I take my carpenter clamp and then lock the Derailer in the position for the first gear in the front it's the inside, the back the outside. Move the shifter lever all the way up, making sure it's lined up just right by eye from above with the chain ring corresponding, then it's just a matter of checking the cable all the way down from the lever to the derailer, and pulling the slack to the derailer, then you just hold it firmly(the cable) in place, then you tighten down the fastening bolt, then it's just a matter of adjusting the arm reach screws, so that the derailer won't go any further then the outside cogs. If you don't understand I'll be glad to explain any part that conufses you. I also use those clamps for adjusting my brakes, I can lock the arms in the position I want and then attach/tighten the cable, very very easy.
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