Why not use Rust-Oleum???
 

A few years back when I decided to try my hand at rattle-can painting, I went to our local auto paint store, bought some things, and then asked them what they thought about me using Rust-Oleum for the project. Well, before they were done, I felt like a total paint rube. They steered me to, what in their opinion, was a much better match for the job and all worked out fine. I've successfully used this paint for a number of jobs. I now have a vintage headlight that I'm in the process of repainting. It's black, I'm low on paint, and I'm looking at my can of high gloss Rust-Oleum and wondering why not? (I have sanded down the metal and primed it with self-etching primer.)

TSAPP

I haven't used it, but I have read alot of thread of differnt forums, bicycles, cars and other things that say they get good results. It seems like you have to put in a bit more work to get them, but its cheap. I don't know what kind of result you are looking for. I need to paint a frame in it one of these days but there is always something else I end up doing instead.

Rust-Oleum works great - Prime it first with Rust-Oleum gray auto primer - Make sure the primer is completely dry before applying the high gloss enamel - And post a pic if you can...

When do yo know its dry? - When it no longer smells like paint ( try hanging it in the attic for a few days)...

Well there are lots of flavors of Rustoleum. You just need to get the right primer, paint, and clear paints and follow the instructions.

In this case, you might want to give the appliance epoxy a try.

I don't use it because I have full access to a sand-blaster, metal-bead-blaster and glass-bead-blaster, a paint shop and a wall of differing paints. :)

Because even if you let it cure for 6 months, you'll still chip the finish if the slightest thing comes in contact with it.

-Kurt

False.

A statement of fact for you; a statement of opinion to me.

While I've seen some pretty sturdy spray paint out there, I've yet to see any company stick with one formula long enough that I can feel confident that the next can I buy will act the same as the product I bought 6 months prior.

-Kurt

It's one of the brands I used to paint a chrome frame bmx prepped by sanding & with their self etching primer. The other brand was Duplicolor. Had to mix alternating coats because of availability. I couldn't tell the difference beyond the spray nozzle. I will say I used ceramic engine enamel and being the same color code, that was identical. The paint sprayed, even cured similarly under almost the same weather conditions in a warmer than usual Miami, FL February 2011 weather conditions. I'm pleased with it considering. BTW, used the back seat of the SUV to cure it for a couple of days. Seems to be holding up, and the only chip/crack was when I cranked down on the rear axle nut on the dropout. It has scratched chrome underneath, I'll touch it up and be done with it someday. It hasn't rusted any, so it's cosmetic for the most part.

Thanks for posting this. Not sure how applicable to bikes but interesting video. Then there is the problem if you need to match something.

Guess what was used to paint this old Peugeot PX10?

http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...ull_Side_1.jpg

the guy in chuckk's video has very good paint control. very smooth, and he did it the right way. my experience with rustoleum has been restricted to etching primer, and i found it does not stick well with montana paints. montana is a company that makes spray paint for graffiti artists; they have a lot of different colors, but i found that it was hard to get the paint to stick, even after leaving it for a week.

And this Holdsworth. I've used it a number of times and have found it to be pleasingly durable.

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/z...vercast-50.jpg

I used these:
http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/10008...11947164740001

to paint this:

primer coats
http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/10008...11947163230001

http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/10008...11947163750001

http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/10008...11947487220001

Paint has held up very well for rattle can but if I had to do it over again I would have powdercoated that frame. It was a fun project, though.

Nope! Rust-Oleum, wrapped up in a Canadian Tire can. And I brushed it on with a 1" paint brush. It does take practice and patience (particularly for allowing decent drying opportunity), and a more practice. Lucky for those who attempt the process, each coat applied helps with the practice issue. Patience? Now that is another animal, all together. And, sadly, it is the lack of patience that is often the down fall of home done paint jobs, be they brushed on or spray bombed.

The Cambio Rino...
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...lusDTDecal.jpg


and the 1958 Carlton Flyer were both done the same way, in case anyone is interested...
http://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe...RightClose.jpg

I'm with kurt on this one.....

I did one bike in duplicolor....did it right, strip down to bare metal, primer, clean, color, clear....all with duplicolor and it looked great new but chips really easily it not anywear near as durable as a factory or automotive paint job. and it wasn't cheap

So even after swearing the next time I had to paint a frame it would be get a powder coat, I did a second bike using automotive finishes and a preval spayer. the finish came out much better and is hugely more durable.....espcially as it is on my son's fixie.

We cant compare $10 jobs to $200 and expect equal results. However, at $10 (hive or take) these are great values. They can also be touched up easily.

$10 in materials; $180 in time and labor.

-Kurt

Something we agree on.

I also do my own wrenching. Oh wait, you too?

I agree with Randy that the oil-based Rustoleum in the non-aerosol variety can be very durable. I painted an air compressor and an old scroll saw with it, and it was tough stuff - the saw was eventually left outside in the elements for years, and it never rusted.

I'm not sure how long it took to fully cure, but I suspect it was several months. For all the prep time involved, I'd sooner take a frame to the powdercoater.

;)

In Rustoleum's defense, I do find their engine paints most suitable for touching up stuff under the hood of automobiles though - especially AC/PS/alternator brackets.

-Kurt

Which suggests in the long run, that $100-150 for a powder coater to strip and refinish a frame and fork, is a real bargain. The PC on Mrs. PB's "Ms. Sporty" remains perfect and still looks brand new after two riding seasons.

PC might not be the best alternative for a really classy frame, but as a quick and affordable way to bring life back to an other wise used and abused frame, PC is the way to go.

This is true, but some people don't have the extra cash to begin with so the $10 and some extra time spent works out well for them. Some people just like to do things themselves and tinker. To me the most cost effective way to get something that looks nice is just buy another item thats in better shape and skip the repainting process, but that may only work if you are being practical. =P

Bravo - See a bike with a $$$ powder coat or a paint job he sent out for someone else to do v/s a Self brushed on enamel - Kudos to the brush...

$10 in materials plus learning a new skill, plus knowing everything was done by my own hand when complete plus the fun of building something seems like a bargain to me.