Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!
#3451
Senior Member
Look what followed me home, a 1984 Comp TA frame. Its kind of unique that it is a early 1984 model. February to be exact, It has the 1983 Frame graphics not the more common 1984 GFX.
#3452
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Bikes: 1984 Centurion Elite GT 15, 1985 Centurion Ironman Dave Scott, 1983 Diamond Back Ridge Runner, 1985 Mongoose ATB, 1987 Ross Centaur, 1986 Raleigh Marathon
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That's a beauty!!! Looks to be in awesome condition too. Definitely interesting with the earlier graphics. I've noticed a lot of the Centurions that are the very first of a model year seem to have the paint and graphics of the previous model year. Almost as if they started producing the next year frame sets before having the paint and graphics figured out, so they just did them up with the previous year's paint and graphics right at first.
#3455
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Ah, the days of full split shorts and being able to wear them......
My 86 classic is in ok condition, but it has been clear coated warts and all and shines like brand new. I haven't ridden it much this year. it has period correct dura ace and is as solid as they come.
My 87 Miami Vice is pretty chipped up and was left outside for dead. Its pretty much stock and absolutely the most fun to ride. I'm not sure why.
My 88 yellow fade is in excellent condition and most modern with 9 speed ultegra. Its a size smaller than I normally ride making it a perfect rode bike for me.
My 89 smoke on the water is also in excellent condition and was previously my least ridden Ironman. That is til this year when my wife started a new job and I was relegated back to riding pulling my toddler in a baby trailer again. Initially I was using my wifes hybrid. But I got used to it so much that when I finally got on an Ironman it felt twitchy/quick handling. So decided to pull my daughter with my 89. Its the same bike I got from R.T. that had only 25 miles on it. I figure lifes too short not to be riding a good bike.
I may be hooking up the MV as that's the Ironman I intend to be riding on in a couple triathlons this summer. You know that old adage dance wth the one that brought you or train with what youll be racing.
Which reminds me of a story I told my wife the other day. She bought a new outfit to run in at alocal race. I told her that common belief is you should never race in new stuff without first testing it out. And then I shared this story of my 1987 season of triathlon racing. I had ayellow and black dx3000 Panasonic and bought matching swim tunks (speedo style) bike shorts,jersy,running singlet,running shorts, all from the finals catalog. Well I decided to test my gear out before my first race. The style at the time was to wear only trunks (No Shirt) unless you were doing a longer race... You got it. I did a mile swim at the junior college across the street from the apt complex I lived at. My girlfriend counted laps and timed everything. After the swim I got on my bike and cycled 25 miles in my speedos, then got off my bike and ran 6 miles again in my speedos. this all happened around noon on a Monday or Tuesday. Man how crazy. Wish I had the nads to do that now, more to the point the body to do that now, It was 30 years ago and about that many pounds less ago. Come to think of it I don't think I was that brave but more what my wife said "what an Idiot"
My 87 Miami Vice is pretty chipped up and was left outside for dead. Its pretty much stock and absolutely the most fun to ride. I'm not sure why.
My 88 yellow fade is in excellent condition and most modern with 9 speed ultegra. Its a size smaller than I normally ride making it a perfect rode bike for me.
My 89 smoke on the water is also in excellent condition and was previously my least ridden Ironman. That is til this year when my wife started a new job and I was relegated back to riding pulling my toddler in a baby trailer again. Initially I was using my wifes hybrid. But I got used to it so much that when I finally got on an Ironman it felt twitchy/quick handling. So decided to pull my daughter with my 89. Its the same bike I got from R.T. that had only 25 miles on it. I figure lifes too short not to be riding a good bike.
I may be hooking up the MV as that's the Ironman I intend to be riding on in a couple triathlons this summer. You know that old adage dance wth the one that brought you or train with what youll be racing.
Which reminds me of a story I told my wife the other day. She bought a new outfit to run in at alocal race. I told her that common belief is you should never race in new stuff without first testing it out. And then I shared this story of my 1987 season of triathlon racing. I had ayellow and black dx3000 Panasonic and bought matching swim tunks (speedo style) bike shorts,jersy,running singlet,running shorts, all from the finals catalog. Well I decided to test my gear out before my first race. The style at the time was to wear only trunks (No Shirt) unless you were doing a longer race... You got it. I did a mile swim at the junior college across the street from the apt complex I lived at. My girlfriend counted laps and timed everything. After the swim I got on my bike and cycled 25 miles in my speedos, then got off my bike and ran 6 miles again in my speedos. this all happened around noon on a Monday or Tuesday. Man how crazy. Wish I had the nads to do that now, more to the point the body to do that now, It was 30 years ago and about that many pounds less ago. Come to think of it I don't think I was that brave but more what my wife said "what an Idiot"
#3456
Senior Member
That's a beauty!!! Looks to be in awesome condition too. Definitely interesting with the earlier graphics. I've noticed a lot of the Centurions that are the very first of a model year seem to have the paint and graphics of the previous model year. Almost as if they started producing the next year frame sets before having the paint and graphics figured out, so they just did them up with the previous year's paint and graphics right at first.
#3457
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I'm liking the fork crown on the 84' Comp TA because it looks to have a nice slope to it . I'm trying to compare it to my 86' CIM it's hard to tell if they are the same or not . I don't think they are . But then on the other hand......
#3458
Senior Member
#3459
Me duelen las nalgas
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...I've noticed a lot of the Centurions that are the very first of a model year seem to have the paint and graphics of the previous model year. Almost as if they started producing the next year frame sets before having the paint and graphics figured out, so they just did them up with the previous year's paint and graphics right at first.
Which causes me to wonder whether all nominally 1989 Ironman models had the slightly different geometry described here, or whether there were variations as this was the last year the Ironman was made.
#3460
Senior Member
Seems possible. The frame of my nominally 1989 Ironman Expert was manufactured in 1988, according to the serial number. But it has the smoke blue/white graphics of the '89.
Which causes me to wonder whether all nominally 1989 Ironman models had the slightly different geometry described here, or whether there were variations as this was the last year the Ironman was made.
Which causes me to wonder whether all nominally 1989 Ironman models had the slightly different geometry described here, or whether there were variations as this was the last year the Ironman was made.
#3461
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BTW, I have a few questions about Ironman components but don't wish to drag the two long running threads off topic -- this one about the paint and graphics, and the stickied thread on OEM equipped Ironman models.
Is there another long running or comprehensive thread on mechanical stuff? For example, I'm trying to sort out a few minor issues regarding how to set the adjustable screws in the rear dropouts; aftermarket freewheels compatible with the Suntour GPX shifters; aligning the GPX brakes without disassembling them to access the internal springs; largest tires compatible with the original Araya CTL-370 rims and brake/frame clearance; etc.
Thanks.
Is there another long running or comprehensive thread on mechanical stuff? For example, I'm trying to sort out a few minor issues regarding how to set the adjustable screws in the rear dropouts; aftermarket freewheels compatible with the Suntour GPX shifters; aligning the GPX brakes without disassembling them to access the internal springs; largest tires compatible with the original Araya CTL-370 rims and brake/frame clearance; etc.
Thanks.
#3462
Senior Member
BTW, I have a few questions about Ironman components but don't wish to drag the two long running threads off topic -- this one about the paint and graphics, and the stickied thread on OEM equipped Ironman models.
Is there another long running or comprehensive thread on mechanical stuff? For example, I'm trying to sort out a few minor issues regarding how to set the adjustable screws in the rear dropouts; aftermarket freewheels compatible with the Suntour GPX shifters; aligning the GPX brakes without disassembling them to access the internal springs; largest tires compatible with the original Araya CTL-370 rims and brake/frame clearance; etc.
Thanks.
Is there another long running or comprehensive thread on mechanical stuff? For example, I'm trying to sort out a few minor issues regarding how to set the adjustable screws in the rear dropouts; aftermarket freewheels compatible with the Suntour GPX shifters; aligning the GPX brakes without disassembling them to access the internal springs; largest tires compatible with the original Araya CTL-370 rims and brake/frame clearance; etc.
Thanks.
I always go here first with mechanical questions and the like cause I know that there's someone here who probably has had the same issue. As jetboy once said if it's Ironman related I don't see a problem.
For instance I know Robbie Tunes has some and has dealt with your gpx group, so id ping him.
Last edited by texaspandj; 07-04-17 at 12:43 AM.
#3463
Senior Member
That looks like a challenge. a comparison of the 1984 COMP T/A, 1985 Ironman, maybe a 87 Master? Sorry i dont have a 86 to compare to, but there will be images that you can look at.
#3464
Senior Member
BTW i'm still on the lookout for an 85 in the silver and blue color scheme. There is actually one on e bay however cant tell if its a 54 or 56. Besides I don't have any bike money, however could go to the musicians bank if I could be sure it was a54. hmm... seems like a email to the owner is in order.
Last edited by texaspandj; 06-21-17 at 07:35 PM.
#3465
Senior Member
As I may have mentioned before but i volunteer with my local Bike CO-OP, and we are moving into our newly remodeled building, and for the sales floor we decided to do some old bikes for display from the various volunteers, So look what i offered up for display for awhile. The MV is now on display!
#3466
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Ok, one more question.
Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
#3467
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Ok, one more question.
Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
#3468
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OK, Mookie, hang on:
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
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#3469
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OK, Mookie, hang on:
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
I will have to look at everything you said later. I guess another option would be to get new wheels. However, this would be 130mm spacing with the newer freehubs and probably require a spacer of some kind too to accommodate the 7 speed cassette it appears.
Interesting that you say the 6400 tricolor derailleur would shift to all gears. And that includes the indexing? That seems like a dumb question. I guess I've never considered having to shift to more than 7 gears.
Thanks
Last edited by MookieBlaylock; 06-24-17 at 09:25 PM.
#3470
Senior Member
you will need a correct speed chain so that it can fit the rear sprocket spacing (as it gets closer as more speeds are added)- and that has caused me to have hit or miss issues with the front derailleur. Like my tricolor FD could not handle the 10 speed very well. got a proper 10 speed fd and all was solved.
#3471
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I've been wondering about 1050 RD suitability for 7+ speeds as well. I have had the 1056 rear derailleur which is marked "Integrated 8 SIS" recommended to me and was wondering if there is a significant difference you may have noticed?
Btw, thank you for previous replies elsewhere; I didn't want to bump those threads just to say thanks but they were appreciated.
Last edited by sroller; 06-24-17 at 10:19 PM.
#3472
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OK, Mookie, hang on:
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.
If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.
Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).
Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.
The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
Thanks again for the response.
So for you or anyone else that may have an answer, I need some final closure on this.
I am just thinking of getting new wheels. That kind of seems to be the most practical way of getting a larger cog with more teeth. I also would like to try some new wheels.
So it sounds like as long as I get a longer chain and spread the stays, the stock 6400 tri-color derailleurs should work on a 7,8, or 9 speed? I do like the downtube shifting.
Thanks
#3473
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The answer is yes. You can get a set of later 130 OLD wheels and they will fit in just fine without cold setting. If you keep a 7 speed cassette just put a 4.5mm spacer in first, then the cassette and lock ring.
If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.
Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.
Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
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#3474
Senior Member
The answer is yes. You can get a set of later 130 OLD wheels and they will fit in just fine without cold setting. If you keep a 7 speed cassette just put a 4.5mm spacer in first, then the cassette and lock ring.
If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.
Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.
Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
I remember a year ago or so I asked on this this thread would a 6 speed shimano derailleur work for 7 speed shifters. I knew they would but for whatever reason couldn't get mine to shift so I started doubting myself. Rccardr said of course they will then posted a pic of his beautiful 1986 modernized 10 speed. And that brought me to my senses.
I try to stay away from mechanical questions simply cause I'm not a mechanic. Having witness myself with my uncle Joe, true mechanics have a way of problem solving that impresses me.
Mostly due to having limited bike money I always do my own work on bikes even before I aquired an Ironman. I have enough triathlon, swimming, biking, running, and bike maintenance books to fill a small library. My latest bike maintenance book was published in 87 or 88 about the year I bought it. However now with the more modern groups I have to Google it, and anything beyond a screw on freewheel is modern to me.
But some bike things are just a mystery. Like the last time I rode my MV . I went to shift and it wouldn't shift to the next easier gear, I shifted again and it did. I figured my rear derailleur just need the cable barrel adjustment tightened. Then I ran through all my gears up and down and it would shift fine with an extra click. I finish my ride no problem, I get home and what I initially thought was the problem was the problem. I just needed to tighten the barrel adjuster. But it was So very slack, I couldn't figure out how it got That slack in one day!
#3475
Me duelen las nalgas
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More detail pix of my 1989 Centurion Ironman Expert. It appears to be mostly stock with a few exceptions, noted in my earlier post:
I'm trying to puzzle out the adjustable rear dropouts, which appear to be modeled on the Campagnolo 1010 horizontal dropouts. Googling around, opinions differ about the purpose of these dropouts and how/whether they should be adjusted.
This discussion on another forum offers some useful tips, including one based on feedback from a frame builder -- reportedly the adjustable screws were just quickie reminders of the appropriate position for installing the wheel, which needed to be aligned by eyeballing it against the frame. The screws can't really be used to fine tune the position of the wheel with the QR unlocked, unless you have three hands or remove the chain via quick link to relieve the derailer spring pressure fighting you.
My rear wheel appears to have been installed by the factory or dealer in the most forward position years ago - I don't see any signs of paint marks that would indicate it was ever set farther back into the dropouts. So for now I'm leaving it as-is.
The dropout thumbscrews are spring loaded -- that's actually the spring visible inside the dropouts, not the screw/bolt threads.
My only remaining question is whether significant adjustments to the rear wheel position would affect rear derailer shifting and noise. The Suntour driveline is awfully noisy compared with the Shimano stuff on my other bikes. I'm accustomed to hearing nothing at all while pedaling but the Suntour driveline never lets me forget it's there. I'm planning to clean and wax the original Suntour chain in paraffin to see if it quiets the system. Wax worked nicely on my errand bike's chain -- dead silent, smooth, stays clean.
*****
Seems like there's enough clearance for up to 700x28 tires, although I'd need to be sure bigger tires would clear the brakes without deflating. These 700x23 shoes are rough on chipseal, not bad elsewhere.
*****
Chain hanger/peg. Nice touch. Don't see that often now.
*****
Chainstay guard tape is deteriorated. I'll replace it with helicopter tape or something else.
*****
Winpista bar and stem, with maximum safe elevation mark. I have it right at that mark now for comfort. Not sure my neck will ever be able to handle a slammed stem.
- Terry brand saddle, Lycra over foam. (I like these and have a similar Bell saddle on my Univega. Comfortable, just wearing unpadded baggy shorts and regular wicking fabric underwear, without sacrificing much efficiency.)
- New Bontrager handlebar tape and bar ends. (I need padded tape. Soon! It's too hot to wear two pair of gloves.)
- New 700x23 Vittoria Zaffiro tires. (Not bad but I'm planning to try 700x25 or 700x28 shoes soon to soften the ride on chipseal.)
I'm trying to puzzle out the adjustable rear dropouts, which appear to be modeled on the Campagnolo 1010 horizontal dropouts. Googling around, opinions differ about the purpose of these dropouts and how/whether they should be adjusted.
This discussion on another forum offers some useful tips, including one based on feedback from a frame builder -- reportedly the adjustable screws were just quickie reminders of the appropriate position for installing the wheel, which needed to be aligned by eyeballing it against the frame. The screws can't really be used to fine tune the position of the wheel with the QR unlocked, unless you have three hands or remove the chain via quick link to relieve the derailer spring pressure fighting you.
My rear wheel appears to have been installed by the factory or dealer in the most forward position years ago - I don't see any signs of paint marks that would indicate it was ever set farther back into the dropouts. So for now I'm leaving it as-is.
The dropout thumbscrews are spring loaded -- that's actually the spring visible inside the dropouts, not the screw/bolt threads.
My only remaining question is whether significant adjustments to the rear wheel position would affect rear derailer shifting and noise. The Suntour driveline is awfully noisy compared with the Shimano stuff on my other bikes. I'm accustomed to hearing nothing at all while pedaling but the Suntour driveline never lets me forget it's there. I'm planning to clean and wax the original Suntour chain in paraffin to see if it quiets the system. Wax worked nicely on my errand bike's chain -- dead silent, smooth, stays clean.
*****
Seems like there's enough clearance for up to 700x28 tires, although I'd need to be sure bigger tires would clear the brakes without deflating. These 700x23 shoes are rough on chipseal, not bad elsewhere.
*****
Chain hanger/peg. Nice touch. Don't see that often now.
*****
Chainstay guard tape is deteriorated. I'll replace it with helicopter tape or something else.
*****
Winpista bar and stem, with maximum safe elevation mark. I have it right at that mark now for comfort. Not sure my neck will ever be able to handle a slammed stem.