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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

Old 06-20-17, 03:43 PM
  #3501  
texaspandj
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Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
BTW, I have a few questions about Ironman components but don't wish to drag the two long running threads off topic -- this one about the paint and graphics, and the stickied thread on OEM equipped Ironman models.

Is there another long running or comprehensive thread on mechanical stuff? For example, I'm trying to sort out a few minor issues regarding how to set the adjustable screws in the rear dropouts; aftermarket freewheels compatible with the Suntour GPX shifters; aligning the GPX brakes without disassembling them to access the internal springs; largest tires compatible with the original Araya CTL-370 rims and brake/frame clearance; etc.

Thanks.
I get it. Especially me being the king of off topic. There is of course, always the mechanics thread. Fwiw this thread has kinda turned into all things Ironman/Centurion besides it's original intent of showing off your Ironman.
I always go here first with mechanical questions and the like cause I know that there's someone here who probably has had the same issue. As jetboy once said if it's Ironman related I don't see a problem.
For instance I know Robbie Tunes has some and has dealt with your gpx group, so id ping him.

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Old 06-20-17, 09:16 PM
  #3502  
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Originally Posted by markwesti View Post
I'm liking the fork crown on the 84' Comp TA because it looks to have a nice slope to it . I'm trying to compare it to my 86' CIM it's hard to tell if they are the same or not . I don't think they are . But then on the other hand......
That looks like a challenge. a comparison of the 1984 COMP T/A, 1985 Ironman, maybe a 87 Master? Sorry i dont have a 86 to compare to, but there will be images that you can look at.
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Old 06-21-17, 06:14 AM
  #3503  
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Originally Posted by fleslider View Post
That looks like a challenge. a comparison of the 1984 COMP T/A, 1985 Ironman, maybe a 87 Master? Sorry i dont have a 86 to compare to, but there will be images that you can look at.
Yeah its been discussed before. in fact it was none other than our own @markwesti who brought it up previously. They are definitely different. If you go to page 27 post 669,670, and 672 you can clearly see the difference between the 85 Ironman and the 86 Ironman forks.
BTW i'm still on the lookout for an 85 in the silver and blue color scheme. There is actually one on e bay however cant tell if its a 54 or 56. Besides I don't have any bike money, however could go to the musicians bank if I could be sure it was a54. hmm... seems like a email to the owner is in order.
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Old 06-23-17, 11:35 PM
  #3504  
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As I may have mentioned before but i volunteer with my local Bike CO-OP, and we are moving into our newly remodeled building, and for the sales floor we decided to do some old bikes for display from the various volunteers, So look what i offered up for display for awhile. The MV is now on display!



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Old 06-24-17, 04:07 PM
  #3505  
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Ok, one more question.

Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
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Old 06-24-17, 04:13 PM
  #3506  
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Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
Ok, one more question.

Instead of doing an 8 speed or 9 speed, what is the capacity of the rear derailleur. I may just get a new 7 speed cassette with more teeth. I'm reading that the capacity is 28 teeth? Can anyone confirm this or are there any things I should look out for? Will the index shifting work correctly still? I assume the distance between cogs should be the same. Thanks!
Dang. Those are hyperglide 7 speed cassettes. This is annoying.
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Old 06-24-17, 07:53 PM
  #3507  
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OK, Mookie, hang on:

Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.

If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.

Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).

Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.

The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
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Old 06-24-17, 09:09 PM
  #3508  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
OK, Mookie, hang on:

Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.

If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.

Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).

Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.

The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...
I don't mind the work. I like learning too. And I don't mind putting money into this bike.

I will have to look at everything you said later. I guess another option would be to get new wheels. However, this would be 130mm spacing with the newer freehubs and probably require a spacer of some kind too to accommodate the 7 speed cassette it appears.

Interesting that you say the 6400 tricolor derailleur would shift to all gears. And that includes the indexing? That seems like a dumb question. I guess I've never considered having to shift to more than 7 gears.


Thanks

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Old 06-24-17, 09:25 PM
  #3509  
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Originally Posted by MookieBlaylock View Post
Interesting that you say the 6400 tricolor derailleur would shift to all gears. And that includes the indexing? That seems like a dumb question. I guess I've never considered having to shift to more than 7 gears.


Thanks
with rare exceptions most rear derailleurs from 7-10 speed work fine as long as you stay shimano compatible. the indexing is all on the shifter side, the RD just moves the distance its told and they did not change ratios until 11 speed.

you will need a correct speed chain so that it can fit the rear sprocket spacing (as it gets closer as more speeds are added)- and that has caused me to have hit or miss issues with the front derailleur. Like my tricolor FD could not handle the 10 speed very well. got a proper 10 speed fd and all was solved.
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Old 06-24-17, 10:05 PM
  #3510  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
OK, Mookie, hang on:

Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo.


Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
with rare exceptions most rear derailleurs from 7-10 speed work fine as long as you stay shimano compatible. the indexing is all on the shifter side, the RD just moves the distance its told and they did not change ratios until 11 speed.

I've been wondering about 1050 RD suitability for 7+ speeds as well. I have had the 1056 rear derailleur which is marked "Integrated 8 SIS" recommended to me and was wondering if there is a significant difference you may have noticed?


Btw, thank you for previous replies elsewhere; I didn't want to bump those threads just to say thanks but they were appreciated.

Last edited by sroller; 06-24-17 at 10:19 PM.
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Old 06-25-17, 01:16 AM
  #3511  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
OK, Mookie, hang on:

Either the 1050 105 RD or Tricolor RD will shift up to 10 speed, no problemo. Same with the crankset.

If your current rear hub is a Shimano 7 speed freehub with a cassette, you can make it an 8/9/10 speed wheel by removing the narrow freehub and replacing it with a wider one. Look this up on the InterWebs for actual instruction on removal/replacement. Cost = maybe $30 max.

Easy to buy either downtube shifters of 8-9-10 speed indexing, or STI shifters (9-10 easier to find in STI- land, any Shimano level will do just fine).

Frame does not require cold setting, altho you can do it if you want to.

The whole dealio requires new cables and housing, or course, and likely bar wrap. But really, just a couple hours of work...

Thanks again for the response.

So for you or anyone else that may have an answer, I need some final closure on this.

I am just thinking of getting new wheels. That kind of seems to be the most practical way of getting a larger cog with more teeth. I also would like to try some new wheels.

So it sounds like as long as I get a longer chain and spread the stays, the stock 6400 tri-color derailleurs should work on a 7,8, or 9 speed? I do like the downtube shifting.

Thanks
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Old 06-25-17, 05:55 AM
  #3512  
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The answer is yes. You can get a set of later 130 OLD wheels and they will fit in just fine without cold setting. If you keep a 7 speed cassette just put a 4.5mm spacer in first, then the cassette and lock ring.


If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.


Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
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Old 06-25-17, 08:04 AM
  #3513  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
The answer is yes. You can get a set of later 130 OLD wheels and they will fit in just fine without cold setting. If you keep a 7 speed cassette just put a 4.5mm spacer in first, then the cassette and lock ring.


If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.


Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
Thanks Doc, and this is why a poem was actually written about him.
I remember a year ago or so I asked on this this thread would a 6 speed shimano derailleur work for 7 speed shifters. I knew they would but for whatever reason couldn't get mine to shift so I started doubting myself. Rccardr said of course they will then posted a pic of his beautiful 1986 modernized 10 speed. And that brought me to my senses.

I try to stay away from mechanical questions simply cause I'm not a mechanic. Having witness myself with my uncle Joe, true mechanics have a way of problem solving that impresses me.
Mostly due to having limited bike money I always do my own work on bikes even before I aquired an Ironman. I have enough triathlon, swimming, biking, running, and bike maintenance books to fill a small library. My latest bike maintenance book was published in 87 or 88 about the year I bought it. However now with the more modern groups I have to Google it, and anything beyond a screw on freewheel is modern to me.
But some bike things are just a mystery. Like the last time I rode my MV . I went to shift and it wouldn't shift to the next easier gear, I shifted again and it did. I figured my rear derailleur just need the cable barrel adjustment tightened. Then I ran through all my gears up and down and it would shift fine with an extra click. I finish my ride no problem, I get home and what I initially thought was the problem was the problem. I just needed to tighten the barrel adjuster. But it was So very slack, I couldn't figure out how it got That slack in one day!
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Old 06-25-17, 12:19 PM
  #3514  
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More detail pix of my 1989 Centurion Ironman Expert. It appears to be mostly stock with a few exceptions, noted in my earlier post:
  • Terry brand saddle, Lycra over foam. (I like these and have a similar Bell saddle on my Univega. Comfortable, just wearing unpadded baggy shorts and regular wicking fabric underwear, without sacrificing much efficiency.)
  • New Bontrager handlebar tape and bar ends. (I need padded tape. Soon! It's too hot to wear two pair of gloves.)
  • New 700x23 Vittoria Zaffiro tires. (Not bad but I'm planning to try 700x25 or 700x28 shoes soon to soften the ride on chipseal.)

I'm trying to puzzle out the adjustable rear dropouts, which appear to be modeled on the Campagnolo 1010 horizontal dropouts. Googling around, opinions differ about the purpose of these dropouts and how/whether they should be adjusted.

This discussion on another forum offers some useful tips, including one based on feedback from a frame builder -- reportedly the adjustable screws were just quickie reminders of the appropriate position for installing the wheel, which needed to be aligned by eyeballing it against the frame. The screws can't really be used to fine tune the position of the wheel with the QR unlocked, unless you have three hands or remove the chain via quick link to relieve the derailer spring pressure fighting you.

My rear wheel appears to have been installed by the factory or dealer in the most forward position years ago - I don't see any signs of paint marks that would indicate it was ever set farther back into the dropouts. So for now I'm leaving it as-is.

The dropout thumbscrews are spring loaded -- that's actually the spring visible inside the dropouts, not the screw/bolt threads.











My only remaining question is whether significant adjustments to the rear wheel position would affect rear derailer shifting and noise. The Suntour driveline is awfully noisy compared with the Shimano stuff on my other bikes. I'm accustomed to hearing nothing at all while pedaling but the Suntour driveline never lets me forget it's there. I'm planning to clean and wax the original Suntour chain in paraffin to see if it quiets the system. Wax worked nicely on my errand bike's chain -- dead silent, smooth, stays clean.

*****

Seems like there's enough clearance for up to 700x28 tires, although I'd need to be sure bigger tires would clear the brakes without deflating. These 700x23 shoes are rough on chipseal, not bad elsewhere.

*****

Chain hanger/peg. Nice touch. Don't see that often now.

*****

Chainstay guard tape is deteriorated. I'll replace it with helicopter tape or something else.

*****

Winpista bar and stem, with maximum safe elevation mark. I have it right at that mark now for comfort. Not sure my neck will ever be able to handle a slammed stem.

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Old 06-25-17, 12:24 PM
  #3515  
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A few more detail pix of the 1989 Centurion Ironman Expert.

*****

Araya CTL-370 "Super Hard" rims. Only one still has the original label. So far, so good, none of the problems some users report. Another local rider has these rims on his Univega. No problems. We're about the same height and build, 5'11", 160 lbs, so maybe these rims are okay with middleweight cyclists and 700x23 or so tires, rather than the originally spec'd 700x18.

*****
Decals, paint, etc.







*****

Bottom bracket paint looks like it wasn't ridden much, so I'm assuming the other paint chips and wear are from storage and handling.

Also, check out those brazed cable guides. No plastic like my other bikes.

Last edited by canklecat; 06-25-17 at 12:31 PM.
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Old 06-25-17, 12:29 PM
  #3516  
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Oh, and a little trick I found for aligning the brakes so they don't rub the rim.

The Suntour GPX brakes cleverly hide the springs. Looks clean. Hard to adjust if the alignment is off. On this bike one caliper/pad rubbed the rim slightly even with the quick release opened. I noticed the brake position was sensitive to the cable housing position. So I tugged the cable housing until it was more or less vertical and the brakes were fairly evenly spaced. Then I zip tied the cable housing to the handlebar. Inelegant yet effective.



The rear GPX brakes will go wonky and unaligned when the handlebar is turned tightly, but that should never happen in real world riding. It's also sensitive to the cable housing position. There are several lugs/guides brazed to the frame, plenty of places to secure the cable housing to ensure the cable won't interfere with brake alignment.
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Old 06-25-17, 03:16 PM
  #3517  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
The answer is yes. You can get a set of later 130 OLD wheels and they will fit in just fine without cold setting. If you keep a 7 speed cassette just put a 4.5mm spacer in first, then the cassette and lock ring.


If you are OK with friction shifting with those new wheels, then an 8-9-10 speed cassette will only require a new chain and some adjusting of the limit screws and cable to accommodate the wider cassette. I've not had Jetboy's issue with the FD, but if you do, a 5600-5700 FD only costs about $10-15 and looks enough like tricolor to blend in.


Sroller, that RD will work just fine on 9-10 speed as well. You've probably noticed that the design is a trickle-down from the previous Tricolor 600, so the geometry is the same. All of the 1050-1051-1055-1056-640X-5500-5600-5700-6500-6600-6700 stuff is pretty much interchangeable and works well together, especially with downtube shifters.
Thanks!
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Old 06-25-17, 09:58 PM
  #3518  
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@canklecat That expert is really clean..congrats,I wish my 89 expert was in that good of shape.

Make sure you get some grease back on that stem.
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Old 06-25-17, 10:35 PM
  #3519  
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Originally Posted by fleslider View Post
@canklecat That expert is really clean..congrats,I wish my 89 expert was in that good of shape.

Make sure you get some grease back on that stem.
Yup, I got lucky. Seller apparently found a stash of new old stock or lightly used Ironmans. Very pleased with it as my first road bike in almost 40 years. Great bike, well within my budget, won't lose money if I decide to sell (I'm still trying to get accustomed to drop bars again, but it's coming ... slowly).

Thanks for the reminder about the stem. It is creaking a bit while climbing out of the saddle, reminding me to regrease it.
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Old 06-26-17, 04:10 PM
  #3520  
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Here's my '88.
I'm the original owner.
The bike has gone through a few iterations over the years but I still have most of the original parts.
This time I've decided to go with Campy Veloce.
Finally got the right configuration together and can start putting it together!

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Old 06-26-17, 04:21 PM
  #3521  
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Alert, alert..... Breaking News.....alert Alert.

I have aquired what I believe to be the hens teeth in Centurion Ironman.
It's a one owner garage and or storage kept what I call a.. wait for it...... Summertime Blues Ironman. That's right a 1989 master. I've only seen two for sale and all in Texas.
I don't have it in my possession yet, in fact my son is holding it for me in Austin a 100 miles away. Here's the CL pic.
I figured eventually I'd get an 85, and then possibly an Carbon Ironman. But I thought the chances of me owning a Summertime Blues Ironman was a pipe dream. Wow I'm stoked. Just by looking at it I can tell it's gonna be as fun to ride as my 87 Miami Vice and as close to my heart as my 86 Classic.
I believe this to be a 52cm and will make a perfect size road or possibly tri bike for me.
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Old 06-26-17, 09:02 PM
  #3522  
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@jan230 -- Looks like a good project. And I have that same Topeak pump. BTW, how do you set the adjustable dropouts on your bike? Does it seem to make any difference?
@texaspandj -- Sweet! Never even heard of that one, although I've only researched the Ironman models for a couple of months after first seeing the one I bought. That bar tape has me thinking I might go with a less vibrant blue padded tape to match the blue smoke finish on mine.

I think you're right about it being a 50cm or 52cm, not 54cm as the seller describes. Mine is a 22.5" or nominally 56cm and has a noticeably longer head tube.

It took me a bit of adjustment to get used to the Ironman after a year riding a 58cm Univega. The 58cm frame is technically slightly tall for me, but I really like the high riding position in traffic. I can straddle it, no problem, but there ain't much breathing room for Johnson and the twins.

Last edited by canklecat; 06-26-17 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 06-26-17, 09:59 PM
  #3523  
jan230
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canlklecat...Thanks, hope to have it done by the end of the week.
Regarding the adjuster screws,they help to refine wheel alignment and ease of instal.
Member T-mar gives a good explanation in this older thread:

http://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...drop-outs.html
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Old 06-26-17, 10:02 PM
  #3524  
texaspandj
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Originally Posted by jan230 View Post
Here's my '88.
I'm the original owner.
The bike has gone through a few iterations over the years but I still have most of the original parts.
This time I've decided to go with Campy Veloce.
Finally got the right configuration together and can start putting it together!

That is one super clean 88 master. That thing is definitely deserving of that group. That frame is so light, right and full of fight. Looking forward to your build.
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Old 06-26-17, 10:06 PM
  #3525  
MookieBlaylock
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Alert, alert..... Breaking News.....alert Alert.

I have aquired what I believe to be the hens teeth in Centurion Ironman.
It's a one owner garage and or storage kept what I call a.. wait for it...... Summertime Blues Ironman. That's right a 1989 master. I've only seen two for sale and all in Texas.
I don't have it in my possession yet, in fact my son is holding it for me in Austin a 100 miles away. Here's the CL pic.
I figured eventually I'd get an 85, and then possibly an Carbon Ironman. But I thought the chances of me owning a Summertime Blues Ironman was a pipe dream. Wow I'm stoked. Just by looking at it I can tell it's gonna be as fun to ride as my 87 Miami Vice and as close to my heart as my 86 Classic.
I believe this to be a 52cm and will make a perfect size road or possibly tri bike for me.
Nice! What are your plans?
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