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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

Old 12-14-18, 02:23 PM
  #5751  
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Turbo ended in US in 1984, and sure didn't have Infinity tubing.
Still, a bike like that is all about position, not weight.
650c wheel and fork shouldn't be that hard to find.
Probably cheapest just to have an orphan rear and build a front to match.


Can't use Terry wheelset, as they're 700c/520c.

The colors lend themselves to an old school Campy Shamal or Vento set of wheels,
and Sante running friction. (Maybe those white chain rings, Pat.)
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Old 12-14-18, 02:35 PM
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Old 12-14-18, 04:42 PM
  #5753  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
Sweet color scheme!
Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post



Real purdy! Smoking.
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Old 12-14-18, 08:27 PM
  #5754  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
I dont think thats a german centurion.
But whats with the headtube angle and fender eyelets?
Centurion messed up like that on the Trac , threaded holes for a bottle cage
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Old 12-14-18, 09:31 PM
  #5755  
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There are fender eyelets on my Trek 930 crit bike.
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My bikes: 58cm '72 Schwinn World Voyageur, with dynamo lighting, 24" '79 Trek 930, 24" '80 Trek 414, '84 Schwinn Letour Luxe, with couplers, 60 cm '88 Centurion Ironman Expert. '92 Schwinn Paramount (Panasonic),
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Old 12-14-18, 10:06 PM
  #5756  
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Velobase says the Sante group is lighter than the Dura Ace 7400/7401 group. It probably doesn't stay clean for long, though.

BTW, if anyone is a Grateful Dead/jam band fan, that radio station I plugged a few pages back has a 3 hour Saturday morning show. Lots of live recordings. I'm not much of a jam band fan however, the show is highly rated. WNRN out of Charlottesville.
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Old 12-14-18, 10:25 PM
  #5757  
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Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
I took the front end off and I did identify pretty clearly that it is the upper top tube where it attaches to the lug that is loose. it can pivot about that point. The top tube still seems firm- it is the whole lug that can move. I tried some basic things to try and remove it (pulling hard and rubber hammer) but no luck. I may have to rig up some sort of devise to pull it- its sort of a bad place to get at though- nothing really to grip as one pushes out.
I dont see anyway to inject anything- it needs to come apart.

ill keep you posted.
I have been checking at work and the specialist doesn't think we have anything in our area that would be ideal and we don't have access to the composite shop stuff. He reminded me of a friend who builds wings & bodies for drag cars. I have his number and can contact him. Whatever he recommends would probably be available to anyone. He also does lots of repairs on strange things and might be willing to do it but of course that would require shipping both ways. He works different hours than I do but I can get in contact with him if we need to.
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Old 12-15-18, 12:42 AM
  #5758  
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Funny thing, on my favorite fast routes for impromptu time trials, I'd rather ride one of those funny bikes than a current model TT bike with aero bars. My favorite fast local 6 mile TT route (12 if I turn around and head back) has some sketchy pavement that seems like it would be unsafe on aero bars. Besides the lack of control there's no ready access to the brakes -- these routes are through critter country where deer and other animals might dart across a two lane FM highway with no shoulder.

But on low bullhorns... why not? I tend to ride the hoods anyway, using the technique with my forearms as parallel with the ground as I can get.

I was just wondering about the feasibility of using bar end shifters on bullhorns. I'll bet some shorter levers would work okay.
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Old 12-15-18, 12:47 AM
  #5759  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post



I met the owner of that bike Caleb on facebook. he says its a 1989 Model and he got it from Italy.
the seller had more than one for sale and it was the only place he found that was selling those frames.

My guess that it is a German Centurion, since they held onto the 1984-85 logos after WSI went to the 1986 logos.
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Old 12-15-18, 01:33 AM
  #5760  
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Originally Posted by fleslider View Post
I met the owner of that bike Caleb on facebook. he says its a 1989 Model and he got it from Italy.
the seller had more than one for sale and it was the only place he found that was selling those frames.

My guess that it is a German Centurion, since they held onto the 1984-85 logos after WSI went to the 1986 logos.
very cool 😎
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Old 12-15-18, 06:51 AM
  #5761  
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Originally Posted by canklecat View Post
Funny thing, on my favorite fast routes for impromptu time trials, I'd rather ride one of those funny bikes than a current model TT bike with aero bars. My favorite fast local 6 mile TT route (12 if I turn around and head back) has some sketchy pavement that seems like it would be unsafe on aero bars. Besides the lack of control there's no ready access to the brakes -- these routes are through critter country where deer and other animals might dart across a two lane FM highway with no shoulder.

But on low bullhorns... why not? I tend to ride the hoods anyway, using the technique with my forearms as parallel with the ground as I can get.

I was just wondering about the feasibility of using bar end shifters on bullhorns. I'll bet some shorter levers would work okay.
You could always just add add on aero bars to your current setup. Thereby having both.
The aerobars aerent designed to get you lower or make your back flatter. You can achieve that on regular bars or in this case a funny bike with bullhorns which force you in a lower position. But instead aerobars draw your shoulders, and elbows closer together' and your hands closer to your face creating a wedge making you more aerodynymic allowing you to slice thru the wind.
There are other benifits to aerobars also .
In the old days ('80s) some riders would mount a brake lever on the end of their aerobars. Im to the mind that if im need to brake suddenly for any reason, i want my hands near my brakes.
I guess ultimately aerobars are not for everyone and i can see why some would shy away from them , for bike handling or aesthetic reasons.

Last edited by texaspandj; 12-15-18 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 12-15-18, 12:33 PM
  #5762  
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The early and "true" non-hipster fixters flipped and chopped their road bars to make bullhorns, i.e. flop and chop. For a geared application, no drops are needed (or practical). So, you chop but don't flop.

Then, you mount either STI 's on the shorty road bars, or the DT shifters on the braze-ons and your brake levers on true flop and chops. TT brake levers (sprung) work better in that instance.
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Old 12-15-18, 02:27 PM
  #5763  
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Originally Posted by Vintage_Cyclist View Post
^^^ That looks like a 700c//520c almost, like a Terry scheme. ^^^

The other one looks more like a 700c/650c situation. I wonder what it really is?

I wonder if a Miami Vice fork would match up in color?
I guess, without a fork, it doesn't matter. You find what fits the fork you have.

If you use DT shifters, you can go TT base bars and bar-end brake levers.
Cleaner look, less cables, but time penalty when braking and shifting (as if you'd actually try a competitive TT on it).
Sized appropriately, with a shorter stem and steerer, could be a pretty cool looker.
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Old 12-15-18, 03:29 PM
  #5764  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
^^^ That looks like a 700c//520c almost, like a Terry scheme. ^^^


The other one looks more like a 700c/650c situation. I wonder what it really is?.
According to the guy who built-up the Sante-equipped bike, it's 700c/650c.

Here's another one on Flickr, from some guy in Stuttgart, Germany.



I don't think that would match the Miami Vice. A white fork would work though.
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Old 12-15-18, 05:28 PM
  #5765  
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Originally Posted by TXsailor View Post
I have been checking at work and the specialist doesn't think we have anything in our area that would be ideal and we don't have access to the composite shop stuff. He reminded me of a friend who builds wings & bodies for drag cars. I have his number and can contact him. Whatever he recommends would probably be available to anyone. He also does lots of repairs on strange things and might be willing to do it but of course that would require shipping both ways. He works different hours than I do but I can get in contact with him if we need to.
thanks for keeping at it. I have not been able to get it to budge so I am wondering if there is something else keeping it on than just the glue (which shoudl not be holding very well .. which is the issue). And engineer friend recommended a possibility of heating up the joint and the epoxy- hot epoxy flows like water and should penetrate into the joint as the old epoxy also would at least partially liquify. but I rather get the thing apart so I can make sure. also now I am curious how it all fits together.
I may take another crack at it today.
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Old 12-15-18, 05:34 PM
  #5766  
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Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
thanks for keeping at it. I have not been able to get it to budge so I am wondering if there is something else keeping it on than just the glue (which shoudl not be holding very well .. which is the issue). And engineer friend recommended a possibility of heating up the joint and the epoxy- hot epoxy flows like water and should penetrate into the joint as the old epoxy also would at least partially liquify. but I rather get the thing apart so I can make sure. also now I am curious how it all fits together.
I may take another crack at it today.
Keep trying. I hope we can find something.

I decided to go Campy on the wheels. Just seemed to work.








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Old 12-15-18, 06:05 PM
  #5767  
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Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
thanks for keeping at it. I have not been able to get it to budge so I am wondering if there is something else keeping it on than just the glue (which shoudl not be holding very well .. which is the issue). And engineer friend recommended a possibility of heating up the joint and the epoxy- hot epoxy flows like water and should penetrate into the joint as the old epoxy also would at least partially liquify. but I rather get the thing apart so I can make sure. also now I am curious how it all fits together.
I may take another crack at it today.
Weve all thought it but what about heating up joint to loosen completely and pull apart.
Of course like you said maybe something else is holding it in place. Plus heating it up enough to pull apart may be enough to over heat and melt tubes. Its only unknown to us...so far.
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Old 12-15-18, 07:26 PM
  #5768  
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Originally Posted by jetboy View Post
thanks for keeping at it. I have not been able to get it to budge so I am wondering if there is something else keeping it on than just the glue (which shoudl not be holding very well .. which is the issue). And engineer friend recommended a possibility of heating up the joint and the epoxy- hot epoxy flows like water and should penetrate into the joint as the old epoxy also would at least partially liquify. but I rather get the thing apart so I can make sure. also now I am curious how it all fits together.
I may take another crack at it today.
What else could be holding it , unless they pined it . And that I doubt, I like what the engineer said . If some glue is still holding and you try to persuade it off you might rip the tube .

Last edited by markwesti; 12-15-18 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 12-15-18, 07:39 PM
  #5769  
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Originally Posted by markwesti View Post

What else could be holding it , unless they pined it . And that I doubt, I like what the engineer said . If some glue is still holding and you try to persuade it off you might rip the tube .
yeah may have to. its not as simple as one would like as there is an inner aluminum lining, the lugs, and the CF, and its hard to tell which parts come apart and which parts don't. its all sandwitched together and its possible the aluminum inner lining has binders on it to the lugs: so it goes together but one cannot ever get it off without breaking it.
may have to jsut go with teh super heated glue method and see if I can rebond it from outside. I think both the top and bottom need rebonding.
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Old 12-15-18, 07:48 PM
  #5770  
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Maybe TMar has some info or knows someone who does.
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Old 12-15-18, 08:48 PM
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Super heated glue , l like that.
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Old 12-19-18, 02:56 PM
  #5772  
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I have a color combo question , It has to do with my latest build the Comp . I put a old saddle on it (Selle Supercorsa) and it was bad . I put another old saddle on it (Selle Supercorsa Profil) , not much better . So I need to step up and get a new saddle , I want to try a few but for right now I want the Selle Rolls . Selle has them for sale but only black MicroFeel (and to me it looks grey) or honey (light brown) both are about $60 . I can get a black leather Rolls for $ 120 . from the UK . Do you think the honey would look good on the Comp . (Please be honest) I can take it .


The Comp



IMG_0163 by mark westi, on Flickr


The Rolls





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Old 12-19-18, 04:00 PM
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Honey would like fine. I'd match the bar tape to the seat though, that white looks out of place.

I've got an 85 IM, same color scheme as this. Currently has a brown Ideale saddle, that I originally put on it. Has also sported both black and maroon Brooks saddles, that were appropriated for other builds. They've all looked fine. Your ass is in the seat anyway, so who's going to really see the color?

There's plenty of pictures around here of gun metal Specialized Expeditions and Trek 720s with honey brown finery and they all look great.
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Old 12-19-18, 04:14 PM
  #5774  
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I'm kind of liking the honey too @Vintage_Cyclist , I'm gonna go for it . And yes that tape is looking strange .
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Old 12-19-18, 06:01 PM
  #5775  
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Brown and blue, ok.
Add silver. No.

The black Regal, on sale.
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