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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

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Post your Centurion Ironman.. For the love of 80s paint jobs!

Old 01-24-19, 10:53 AM
  #6051  
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Originally Posted by stilllearning View Post
First time posting a picture, so hopefully it shows.
I
I bought this all original 85/86 Ironman with Shimano 600 last April. I swapped out the handlebars and stem because of my long arms and lowered the gearing due to my affinity for hills. It is serving it's purpose well in helping me get a good workout, but I made the mistake of browsing through this thread and am now suffering from Ironman envy. As a result, I am wondering if there is something else I can do that would keep the low gearing and improve the looks.

It now has a 7 speed Shimano 14-28 freewheel and a Claris 50/34. I couldn't find any other compacts that would work with a 7 speed, but I'm not thrilled with how the Claris looks, which is prompting this post.

Is there a better looking compact crank that would work?
Do you think a triple would look better? (I have a Suntour V-GT Lux long cage derailleur)
What triple could I use without having to cold set the frame?
Or, should I just be happy with what I have as the Claris is an okay crank and doesn't look that bad?

Any suggestions will be appreciated! I wasn't sure if I should have posted this on the other Ironman thread, but since this is primarily about looks, I figured it would fit here.
These pictures have given me some great ideas for the bars, seat, etc. The color of the bike is not as catchy as others, but it is a solid bike and I like how it rides.

Brian
Looks fine to me, but I'm more concerned with function than looks. Heck, my blue/white Ironman has a bright orange seat bag because it was on sale for $7. And it sorta goes with the orange logo colors. Sorta.

I switched my Ironman from the original 52/42 chainrings to 50/39 Vuelta SE Plus; and freewheel from the original Suntour 13-24 to a SunRace 13-25. Easier on hills, but I'm spun out on my favorite fast downhill runs. Not a big deal, for now I'm recovering from injuries and illness so my main focus is improving hill climbs, not my top speed. Your 50/34 and 14-28 seems fine if it suits your terrain and fitness.

What handlebar is that? I like that bend and shorter drop length. That's one of the few remaining tweaks I'd like for my Ironman -- a handlebar with a flatter and shorter reach to the hoods, and shorter drop reach.

And what brake levers/hoods? Those look more comfy than the originals.
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Old 01-24-19, 11:38 AM
  #6052  
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Originally Posted by stilllearning View Post
First time posting a picture, so hopefully it shows.

Brian
I think it looks great, and a compact with a 28t tall gear works in a lot of places. That color scheme is a very nice bridge between the classy elegance of the early models to the "I'm here to party" brashness of the later 80's.

Super glad you're here, on the forum, and riding an Ironman. Only a few chosen people on this planet will be so lucky, and "know the deal."
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Old 01-24-19, 12:06 PM
  #6053  
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Hey Brian , welcome to the party . I think your bike looks real good , black / black / black / black . Sometimes I like the tan walls but in your case black works so much better .
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Old 01-24-19, 11:41 PM
  #6054  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Here's my current one (the one above was a 56, better size for me is the 58). Saddle's been swapped recently, but otherwise:
Thank you everyone for the feedback and ideas! I appreciate you taking the time to help me out.
rccardr - I figured I had to have the frame cold set to get the 9 or 10 speeds, thanks for letting me know a 130 old rear hub would work. I like your wheel setup, on the two bikes. What are they?

canklecat - The handlebars are Dajia Cycleworks and the brake levers are Origin8 since the originals didn't fit well on the new bars.
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Old 01-25-19, 01:51 AM
  #6055  
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Originally Posted by stilllearning View Post
canklecat - The handlebars are Dajia Cycleworks and the brake levers are Origin8 since the originals didn't fit well on the new bars.
Ah, good to know. Both of those were already on my wish list. Now that I can see 'em on a bike, those bars and brakes are moving up from maybe to definitely someday soon.
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Old 01-25-19, 07:04 AM
  #6056  
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rccardr - I figured I had to have the frame cold set to get the 9 or 10 speeds, thanks for letting me know a 130 old rear hub would work. I like your wheel setup, on the two bikes. What are they?
The 56 has Alex rims laced to Shimano 5600 hubs; the 58 has the original Araya anodized rims laced to 6208 hubs.

Recently finished a handbuilt set of Mavic Open Pro Elite rims laced to Shimano 5600 hubs with Sapim DB stainless spokes.
And ordered an 11-34 cassette.
And a vintage Deore 650 RD.
Anyone else see where this is going, as SOTR approaches?
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Old 01-25-19, 07:44 AM
  #6057  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Here's my current one (the one above was a 56, better size for me is the 58). Saddle's been swapped recently, but otherwise:
If the IM's had came in a blueish/silver combo, like rccardr's 56 appeared to me, that would be my favorite color combo. Please post another pic of the 56. However, knowing it is grey/silver/charcoal, it still might be my favorite anyway. Super purdy!

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Old 01-25-19, 07:48 AM
  #6058  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
The 56 has Alex rims laced to Shimano 5600 hubs; the 58 has the original Araya anodized rims laced to 6208 hubs.

Recently finished a handbuilt set of Mavic Open Pro Elite rims laced to Shimano 5600 hubs with Sapim DB stainless spokes.
And ordered an 11-34 cassette.
And a vintage Deore 650 RD.
Anyone else see where this is going, as SOTR approaches?
Surely some of these new bikes/riders showing up on the thread are close enough to join us at SOTR.
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Old 01-25-19, 07:54 AM
  #6059  
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Getting a lot of talk lately on triples, gearing and long cage RDs. That is great because it means people are keeping old bikes on the road. Let me get some things together, take/post some pictures/info and we can have a good discussion for people needing that info.
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Old 01-25-19, 08:16 AM
  #6060  
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Originally Posted by stilllearning View Post
First time posting a picture, so hopefully it shows.
I
I bought this all original 85/86 Ironman with Shimano 600 last April. I swapped out the handlebars and stem because of my long arms and lowered the gearing due to my affinity for hills. It is serving it's purpose well in helping me get a good workout, but I made the mistake of browsing through this thread and am now suffering from Ironman envy. As a result, I am wondering if there is something else I can do that would keep the low gearing and improve the looks.

It now has a 7 speed Shimano 14-28 freewheel and a Claris 50/34. I couldn't find any other compacts that would work with a 7 speed, but I'm not thrilled with how the Claris looks, which is prompting this post.

Is there a better looking compact crank that would work?
Do you think a triple would look better? (I have a Suntour V-GT Lux long cage derailleur)
What triple could I use without having to cold set the frame?
Or, should I just be happy with what I have as the Claris is an okay crank and doesn't look that bad?

Any suggestions will be appreciated! I wasn't sure if I should have posted this on the other Ironman thread, but since this is primarily about looks, I figured it would fit here.
These pictures have given me some great ideas for the bars, seat, etc. The color of the bike is not as catchy as others, but it is a solid bike and I like how it rides.

Brian
That's a sharp looking bike. I don't think it needs any changes.
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Old 01-25-19, 08:40 AM
  #6061  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
And ordered an 11-34 cassette.
And a vintage Deore 650 RD.
Anyone else see where this is going, as SOTR approaches?
I'll "see it there...." Looks like an Ironman will be the appropriate ride.....can do.
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Old 01-25-19, 09:02 AM
  #6062  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
I'll "see it there...." Looks like an Ironman will be the appropriate ride.....can do.
IM it is, then. I guess the pink Team Fuji will wait for next year.
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Old 01-25-19, 09:05 AM
  #6063  
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You know that's the only pinkish bike you can ride where I'd admit knowing you.
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Old 01-25-19, 09:31 AM
  #6064  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
You know that's the only pinkish bike you can ride where I'd admit knowing you.
I was having to work out some gearing issues, anyway. How to get enough gearing with the Superbe RD. There is a rare Superbe long cage, but they don't come up very often. So it is either the Superbe Tech RD, or switch cages on the original RD. I was also thinking about the Superbe Comp crank, but those are few and far between also. Most seem to be 175 anyway. It will one of the triples I already have. The Trek 412 and Condor also showed up. Those are in line to be ridden as well.
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Old 01-25-19, 09:34 AM
  #6065  
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You don't have to ride an Ironman.
We'll still admit knowing you.

Maybe.
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Old 01-25-19, 09:48 AM
  #6066  
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Originally Posted by RobbieTunes View Post
You don't have to ride an Ironman.
We'll still admit knowing you.

Maybe.
I have the early red/white IM also. I have the parts to pimp it out right. That will be the ride. Then I can wait for one of those Superbe long cage RDs to pop up.
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Old 01-25-19, 10:18 AM
  #6067  
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So you acquired your fine vintage steed, but you need more gearing. There are plenty of options/ways you can go. Let's talk about cranks. The best thing you can do is get a 110/74 BCD. Then you can go compact or triple route. All of the companies made them. There are other sizes available, but 110/74 is the best option. Here are some examples.


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Old 01-25-19, 10:41 AM
  #6068  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
So you acquired your fine vintage steed, but you need more gearing. There are plenty of options/ways you can go. Let's talk about cranks. The best thing you can do is get a 110/74 BCD. Then you can go compact or triple route. All of the companies made them. There are other sizes available, but 110/74 is the best option. Here are some examples.


Take a look at the photos. The one on the top right is a FC-6206. That crank is the one that matches the 600 IM. They can be hard to come by and pricey. The one on the bottom right is a Takagi. It is actually a 130/86. Takagi made both sizes. Shimano acquired Takagi to make their cranks. The crank on the bottom left is about as pretty a crank as I have seen.

Look at the bottom photo. When searching for a replacement crank, you don't even need to include triple in your search. Just look for a 110 or 110/74 crank. Then look at the back side and look for the threaded 74 holes. As you can see, they came with different thread hole sizes. A compact will use your existing BB spindle. A triple will use a longer one. Most of the triples use a 121-121.5 BB. If you are not particular, there are inexpensive 121.5 spindles on Amazon. If unsure of the size, you can check on Velobase. There is also Sheldon Brown's BB spindle chart. You can also type your question into a search engine and the answer will usually come up. As for crank bolts, I prefer the Allen headed with dust cover ones. Most multi tools have a Allen wrench that fits the bolts. Handy if you have problems on the road.

Sugino makes basic chainrings in various sizes. They are sold from many suppliers for decent prices.

Last edited by seypat; 01-25-19 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 01-25-19, 11:24 AM
  #6069  
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You got that crank now. You have to decide between triple or compact/Big A cogs/long cage RD. If you are like me, you opt for the third option. Triple and Big A cogs/long cage RD.

The following discussion is specific to the systems that came on the IMs.

If you are using index shifting that is an issue as well. I only use friction. Someone else will need to explain indexed as it pertains to derailleurs. Triple vs compact comes down to how much gearing you want. Over the years I have compared the weights of the options within the same level.(examples 105, 600) With a 30t cog on the back, the weight is about the same between the 2. If the compact goes to a 32t+/long cage RD in back, the triple is the lighter system. The compact will also have larger jumps between cogs. The IM 105 RD will shift a 28 cog. The 600 looks the same, so it probably will also. They will not do a 30t. If a 34t front 28t back gives you enough gearing, that is your least expensive, easiest option. If not you have to change something.
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Old 01-25-19, 11:26 AM
  #6070  
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Great info @seypat maybe you should also post that on the Centurion Info thread.

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Old 01-25-19, 11:39 AM
  #6071  
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You decided you have to change something. If you go triple, you will need a new BB spindle, but maybe nothing else. The IM 105 FD will not shift a triple. The 2 IM 600s I have will. I do not know about the Suntour GPX derailleurs. If you need a new FD just get a MTB FD from that period. Shimano Deerhead or Deore. Suntour Mountech works. Or something shiny/generic with very little graphics. It's a FD, it doesn't make much difference. RD is in the next post.
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Old 01-25-19, 11:41 AM
  #6072  
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Originally Posted by texaspandj View Post
Great info @seypat maybe you should also post that on the Centurion Info thread.
Or maybe put a reference to this page there.
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Old 01-25-19, 11:56 AM
  #6073  
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Originally Posted by seypat View Post
You decided you have to change something. If you go triple, you will need a new BB spindle, but maybe nothing else. The IM 105 FD will not shift a triple. The 2 IM 600s I have will. I do not know about the Suntour GPX derailleurs. If you need a new FD just get a MTB FD from that period. Shimano Deerhead or Deore. Suntour Mountech works. Or something shiny/generic with very little graphics. It's a FD, it doesn't make much difference. RD is in the next post.
On to the RDs.

The RD-1050 on the Experts will handle a 52/40ish/30 or 50/40ish/28 front and a 12 low 28t cog setup. That's what's on my MV. I don't know about the 6400 or the Suntours. If you need something more, get a MTB RD from that period. If you look hard, you can find a decent price. Make sure they work with your shifters. rccardr and Robbie can help you with that. If anything needs to be changed or added, let me know.
The one on the left I bought with some 600 brake levers/FD for $10. Parts only. It had the pivot limit screw broke off. I removed the broken old one and replaced it. It took about an hour.



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Old 01-25-19, 12:08 PM
  #6074  
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Nice info, Pat. A few things to add:
A Shimano CX70 FD is a good derailleur for compact or triple shifting. Also come in braze on style, which can be convenient for some frames. Deore FD's are indeed the bomb but can be hard to find in 28.6, seem to be more common in 31.8. Shimano and a few other companies make shims to bring that down to 28.6 for an IM.

Do some research on FD/crankset combinations before jumping right in. Some FD's, notably the Deore style, really prefer to shift a 48/36/24 (old timers call this a 'classic' MTB ring setup), while road type FD's like Ultegra prefer a 53/39/30. Friction shifting up front helps, as you can make almost anything work most of the time, but if you appreciate the difference between some ring skating and nice, crisp chain movement from ring to ring, homework helps.

If using a triple, install a chain keeper to prevent the chain from overshifting past the small chainring. You can be as careful as you want withh limit screws and chain tension, but sooner or later, that chain will wind up sitting on the bottom bracket. And it will be at the worst possible time. Guaranteed.

If using STI shifters instead of downtube ones, best to find the ones that can be used with either triple or double cranks. Not an STI guy myself, much, but especially whe pairing STI's with a non-indexing FD like a 6207 or earlier Deore, having multiple movement and trim options gives you a better chance of having nice, reliable front shifting.

Speaking of which, if anyone is looking for an 8 speed Shimano option, I have a pair of like new RS500 shifters (look like DA7700) that came on a bike I bought for the frameset. Triple/double capable, work wth any indexing 6-7-8-9-10 speed Shimano RD except DA 740X and 10 speed MTB stuff.
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Old 01-25-19, 12:21 PM
  #6075  
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Originally Posted by rccardr View Post
Nice info, Pat. A few things to add:
A Shimano CX70 FD is a good derailleur for compact or triple shifting. Also come in braze on style, which can be convenient for some frames. Deore FD's are indeed the bomb but can be hard to find in 28.6, seem to be more common in 31.8. Shimano and a few other companies make shims to bring that down to 28.6 for an IM.

Do some research on FD/crankset combinations before jumping right in. Some FD's, notably the Deore style, really prefer to shift a 48/36/24 (old timers call this a 'classic' MTB ring setup), while road type FD's like Ultegra prefer a 53/39/30. Friction shifting up front helps, as you can make almost anything work most of the time, but if you appreciate the difference between some ring skating and nice, crisp chain movement from ring to ring, homework helps.

If using a triple, install a chain keeper to prevent the chain from overshifting past the small chainring. You can be as careful as you want withh limit screws and chain tension, but sooner or later, that chain will wind up sitting on the bottom bracket. And it will be at the worst possible time. Guaranteed.

If using STI shifters instead of downtube ones, best to find the ones that can be used with either triple or double cranks. Not an STI guy myself, much, but especially whe pairing STI's with a non-indexing FD like a 6207 or earlier Deore, having multiple movement and trim options gives you a better chance of having nice, reliable front shifting.

Speaking of which, if anyone is looking for an 8 speed Shimano option, I have a pair of like new RS500 shifters (look like DA7700) that came on a bike I bought for the frameset. Triple/double capable, work wth any indexing 6-7-8-9-10 speed Shimano RD except DA 740X and 10 speed MTB stuff.
Good additional info. Something I did not talk about since I am not well versed, is hubs and spacing. Maybe you can talk about 126, 130, 6-10 speed, hubs options, etc. I thought I saw a cold setting inquiry above.
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