AbnormalReflex

So I am a new arrival to the very bike-centric Bay area from the East coast and couldn't bring my normal bike (a 1997 Trek mountain bike, which is just too heavy or tempting to steal for the area from what I've seen).

After a lot of fruitless searches for 2 months in and around Berkeley where I live now, and seeing nothing that wasn't at least 3-4 times more expensive than most people here would appraise similar bikes (few road bikes even in bad condition sell for less than 200 here) I found a 1986 Fuji Sagres with a 58cm frame over the hills in Livermore for about $150:

https://www.classicfuji.com/Sagres_1986_Page.htm

This is my first road bike and I wanted to get something that I would not be too worried about locking up in Berkeley but that also had good basics for a road bike, and the reviews I'd heard of these was fairly positive.

The seat and tires have been replaced but I'd prefer replacing the tires with something a little better. The frame has one scratch but is otherwise clean, and the chain/gears are well-lubricated with only a little dust. Hopefully once I can settle on a new set of tires/tubes I'll do a more thorough job cleaning and re-lubing it. I still have some learning to do getting down the details of friction shifting but the frame is a good fit and the ride feels pretty good.

I have a few questions for you all, as I'm planning on using this bike basically as a commuter/exercise bike, going for regular rides on streets or paved bikeways. I have noticed the roads in Berkeley can be hit or miss and with 27x1-1/8 inch standard road tires I'd be worried about them wearing poorly. If someone can recommend for me relatively inexpensive tire for use on streets that would be very helpful. Some places have claimed you can mount 27x1-1/4 inch tires on a bike with the 1-1/8 rims but I wanted some input on the pros and cons of doing that and what kind of tube to get if I go up a tire width.

The other thing I wanted to ask was what should be the priorities when cleaning up a bike you just bought, and if removing decals is frowned upon (the sticker decals, not the front plaque, have small black edges from dirt and are not flush with the frame). I'm a bit OCD about cleanliness so it's very tempting for me to just peel the suckers.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

cb400bill

Well, the first thing we need are some pictures of your bike. On this forum we like pictures.

As far as good replacement tires, Panaracer Pasela Tour Guard tires are highly thought of for being affordable, tough, and long lasting. I've used them on a number of bikes myself. I road my Sagres with its 27 x 1 1/8" tires and never thought once about moving to 27 x 1 1/4" tires.

Before offering a opinion on removing the decals, again I ask for some good pictures of the bike with closeups of the decals.

BTW, here is a pic of my (recently sold) 1986 Sagres.

AbnormalReflex

Finally got some (low resolution) pictures, they're a bit darker than in reality but the bike is mostly clean and tuned now.



This is what I'm talking about with the decals:

cb400bill

Nice looking bike. I recommend just leaving the decals alone.

Now, I have to ask you a question. Is this frame too big for you? With the seat slammed down and the stem way up, it appears so.

wrk101

+1 If that seat post is properly adjusted, then that bike is way too big for you. Stem may also be too high, past the min insert line. That is a huge frame.

Tires look like the typical flip CST tires.

On the thrifty side, I like the Nashbar Prima 2 Plus tires, they are on sale right now for $10. A step up are the Panaracer Paselas.

Yes, removing decals is frowned upon, and also followed up in about six months with a "hey where do I find replacement decals?" thread. Keep the bike original, particularly frame and decals. Its only original once.

AbnormalReflex

Well, the seat was just down all the way because I had the bike upside-down as I cleaned it. I'm fairly tall so I needed a bigger frame. The seat normally is a little above the bars when positioned okay, and I have since tilted that seat way forward. I have found one thing that bothers me now that the bike is set up, it appears the friction shifter for the front sprockets rubs the chain when fully depressed and I don't have a lot of experience monkeying with shifters. Any tips or how much time it might take to tighten the cable up?

Also I just swapped the old tires for Kenda-35s, they're nothing special but I'm not intensively riding this and want to get the hang of the bike before I go nuts with addons.

rich rice

Adjusting your front DR is very quick. Set the shifter all the way flush with the tube, set the inside limit screw (probably marked wit an "L" on the derailleur until the chain clears the DR, then loosen up your cable clamp, pull the cable tight, and retighten the clamp while pulling gently on the cable. Time involved, less than five minutes, while sipping coffee...

AbnormalReflex

I can't say it's quite that easy, because it's a spring-loaded system. I need to wedge the front derailleur to the desired position with my knuckle of one hand while I try to lock down the set screw holding the cable in place with the other hand. After nearly breaking my knuckle because of how tight the spring is I only partially fixed it, so I'm gonna save that for working with a friend of mine so I don't break any fingers down there.

Also, another note on fit: I am 6 feet tall and stradding the frame (not the seat) it's about an inch of space to my nethers, which is generally what I've known a decent fit was, and I do get nearly but not quite full leg extension riding it, the frame may be a cm too big but it's not really noticeable when riding it.

rich rice

Yes, it really is that easy. The springs are for the return. They are all that way. Don't wedge anything. Adjust your low limit screw when the cable clamp is loose. Watch the derailer move as you loosen/tighten the screw. It will move easier toward the frame (loosening the L limit screw) than it will going toward the bigger chainring. If you grab the cage and pull it away from the seat tube, you can ease the pressure to turn the screw clockwise (thus moving it away from the seat tube). Then attach the cable. There shouldn't be hardly any tension on the cable (if any at all) when it is in the forward position. Just taut, no more.

You are trying to set your travel with the cable as opposed to setting the limit of motion with the limit screw. That's what is making it tough for you. Use the limit screws to limit the excursion (amount that the cage moves). Set the small ring first, then pull the shifter back (while turning the cranks) all the way until it stops and set the other (H) limit screw so the chain doesn't overshoot the big chainwheel. Same principle as the L limit screw, but in reverse.

rich rice

Here's another thing to look at.. Make sure the derailer cage is as close (vertically) to the big chainwheel as you can get it, without having it touch the teeth. Many folks run their derailers too high on the seat tube (clamp-on type), resulting in sloppy shifts. Too low and it will rub on the chainwheel, too high and it needs to move farther than necessary to move the chain sideways. Leave about 1/8" clearance and it should be just about right.

AbnormalReflex

I think I found where the limit screws are now, the suckers were unlabeled and the lower limit is pretty far recessed already so on first inspection it just looked like a joint in the derailleur. I think that adjustment did it but I doubt I'll be sure until I go for a test ride.

rich rice

They can be fine-tuned when you go for a ride, I usually stick a screwdriver in my pocket, test, stop, make a small adjustment, recheck.. You are on the right track now.

AbnormalReflex

Well we'll see, I had to set the sucker as far as it goes (it only moved an additional half turn) to stop the chain from catching so let's hope I don't need more

Captain Blight

Normally one doesn't shift the front all that often, but it's certainly nice to have when you need it. Nice score! I hope you end up liking it.

Buy a good U-lock!!

AbnormalReflex

Well I thought I'd leave an update: With some very good help at the local bike shop I have managed to replace any small screws and fittings that were showing their age (one limit screw and the connectors for the bike's reflectors) and added an aluminum bike rack so I can be somewhat practical about using the bike. She's a decent ride, not what I'm used to coming from a mountain bike but definitely fun, makes me wish there was a velodrome nearby like back in Queens where I'm from. Any suggestions on what size of U-lock to get? I'm debating getting a fugghedaboutit mini but I'm not sure if 3.25x6" is going to be big enough to lock up easily.