bloud 

Nice find. I love those block letters on those decals.


Looks like 82 or 83, should have a serial number under the bottom-bracket that will tell exactly. https://classicfuji.com/DelRey_1982_Page.htm

j ripper

Thanks bloud, I just added some yellow stripe michelins that my friend had and I changed out the nitto 115 to a little wider 3ttt. I am making sure to keep everything I take off. I am setting it up for me as this is going to be my rider. This was the one that was on Chico c-list if you saw it.

cb400bill

Stem shifters = 1982. Like this small one that I picked up a couple years back.

dailycommute

Banging the 1984 team all this week on the commute. This really is a lovely bike, one of the smoothest vintage rigs I have ever ridden. Something about the way it rolls and its geometry make it very fast. Used to think treks were the best steel but this era team is fine indeed.

j ripper

I agree 100%. Been putting a lot of miles on this!! We are twinsies!!

rekmeyata

Of course this all subjective, but having currently own a 84 Trek 660 with the 531cs tubeset, and a 84 Fuji Club with the Valite quad butted tubeset, I think the Trek is more comfortable. The Fuji rides rougher though it is lighter, but the lightness allow for a bit more lateral flexing then the Trek, but as far as vertical it's a bit more stiffer which is where the stiffness if felt through the frame and into the body.

What's weird is I also have a couple of Miyata's with the triple butted splined tubing, that frameset has less lateral flexing then the Trek but is more comfortable then the Fuji though not quite as comfortable as the Trek.

I like all three brands from back in the 80's, but if I had my choice for riding a casual century I would take the Trek, for shorter distance racing though I would take one of the Miyatas.

Again, that has been my experiences and my opinion.

eschlwc

^ comparing my '84 club to my two 531 bikes is difficult, because, even though the seat tubes are the same length, the wheels and geometry are slightly different. one 531 frame has the lightest wheels and shortest top tube, which makes it climb easier, but also makes it the least comfortable (just of these three bikes) elsewhere. the other 531 frame has the longest top tube and wheelbase, which seems to contribute to its overall comfort. but there's something special about the club bike. its overall design feels really sleek and fast. it's just hard to pin down and explain, but the club is one of my favorites to ride right now. i even sold two other japanese bikes recently after riding the club so much. now i've got my eye out for an even more high end fuji from the early '80s.

rekmeyata

Don't get me wrong, I'm not bad mouthing the Fuji Club, I like riding it, but it wouldn't be my first choice to ride on a century. I'm sure the geometry are all slightly different on all the bikes I mentioned, but the tires are the same...if that matters. Obviously the wheels are all different but they all use 36 spokes, but the lightest wheels I have are on the Trek, it uses DT Revolution spokes on the front and DT Competition on the rear; while the Miyata team uses double butted 14/15 on both rims, but the Torelli's on the Trek are lighter; the Fuji uses straight gauge #14 spokes as does the Miyata 712. I think the Trek has the tightest geometry because that's the only bike that I have to deflate the rear tire and then squish it flat against the seat tube to slide it out, the others don't have to be flattened first to remove.

I know when I ride any of those 4 bikes both Miyata's surge when cranked hard due to the splined tubing's lateral strength I can only assume. That feeling is like you said, sleek and fast but it feels more like a surge at every push of the crank is how I explain it.

But the lightest steel bike that I currently own is that Fuji Club at 20.8 pounds completely factory stock except for the saddle and tires/tubes, the next lightest one is actually a tie between the Miyata Team and the Trek 660 at 21.1.

I do have a aluminum fork that came off a AL race bike I had that cracked at the head tube for no known reason (which is why I won't buy another aluminum bike!), anyway, I polished up the fork to an almost chrome like shine and I'm thinking about replacing the Fuji fork with it just for fun to see how light the Fuji could get. Without knowing the weight of the Fuji steel fork but roughly know what other higher end steel forks weigh (around a 1 1/2 pounds) I assume I should lose about a half a pound of weight doing the swap which would bring down the weight of the Fuji to 20.3 pound range. That's about as light as I would go unless I swapped the Trek's wheels to the Fuji which were the lightest 36 hole clincher rims available when I bought them. I thought about re-lacing the Fuji rims to go with DT Competition spokes, but it's just a thought.

kaydub

New shoes and lines on the S10-S. Would've preferred tan walls but these were cheap and the LBS had them in stock.

Don't think I'm gonna keep this one after all. I like it, and I'd love to keep it around as a cruiser, but pace (and money) is tight at the moment and my Centurion is a better ride anyways.

My only dilemma is, do I keep the Belt saddle or not

(and don't mind the horrid lens flare...)

rekmeyata

Is there anything wrong with the condition of the bike?

Personally, if you can find any way to keep the bike you should try. Those bikes for that year, in that condition, and it appears at least in the photo to be in really nice condition, are almost impossible to find. If you sell it I guarantee you someday 10, 15 years down the road you will be kicking yourself. Think of it as a nice addition to a beginnings of a classic collection of bikes that you can add to later.

Also personally, since the saddle came with the bike new from the factory it should stay with the bike if you decide to sell it. Last year one of those sold for $575 not sure what this year might bring but I have noticed a negative price movement on used bikes, but that one is kind of rare and someone wants it. I would buy it if I hadn't spent my wad on a new bike!

Read these two pages written in 1978 about that Fuji: https://www.velo-pages.com/main.php?g2_itemId=616

There is one on E-Bay the same year as yours and they only want $330, I don't know but that seems low but maybe prices have dropped that much from last year, and that bike too seems to be in excellent condition but it was ridden a lot the inside ring gear have pointed teeth. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1978-Fuji-S-...item232b19eb05

Cougrrcj 

The linked article is about the S-10S LTD. The S-10S and S-10S LTD were distinct different models '78. in '79 they were called S-12S and S-12S LTD. The 'standard' was butted hi-ten tubing, painted rear stays and had a lower-status component 'group'. The LTD had butted CrMo tubing, chrome rear stays, SunTour bar-end shifters, and higher level derailleurs.

1978 Fuji Catalog link

rekmeyata

The review article I gave was just for informational interest as to what was said about those bikes back then, and that was the closest I could find to his model.

Still the hi ten butted tubing used was the 881, a Fuji tube set probably made Ishawata, was not a bad tube set back in 78. The rank and file of Fuji tube sets were:

Fuji SL45 quad butted channeled chro moly steel tubing (though this could have been the same as Fuji 9658 renamed when channeling was added)
FUJI 9658 quad butted chro moly
FUJI 331 double butted chro moly (only one of 3 and best Fuji tube sets offered in 1978)
FUJI VALite 1769 quad butted (I have this on my 84 Fuji Club)
FUJI 441 chro moly
FUJI VALite 212 double butted
FUJI VALite 414 butted
Fuji 881 double butted high tension (the bike in question, 2nd of 3 tube sets offered in 78)
FUJI 661 high tension (lowest and the 3rd tube set offered in 78)

So even though it was a hi tension tube set in 78 it was the middle of the road tubeset, but , which like I said, back in 78 not a bad tube set, and if made by Ishwata it would have been a decent tube set. A lot people relate hi tension to department store junk frames, but the Fuji was in a class by itself and was the best hi tension steel frame ever made. The worst thing about Hi Tension was the weight of the frame at 27 pounds. Find some lighter tires like the Conti Gatorskin 27 x 1 1/4 or the better Panaracer Pasela TG 27 x 1 1/8 or 1" if you want a the narrowest, and lighter tubes by converting the Schrader valve hole in the rim to Presta by using a grommet
( https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...6&category=199) and use 700c x 23 tubes and you could lose about a pound of rotational weight.

I'm not saying it's the best tube set in the world and that's the best bike in the world, but it is worth keeping especially in the condition that it appears to be in and the difficulty of finding a bike like that in that condition. It would be definitely be a conversational bike at any club ride or local bike ride event.

Just my opinion that's all it is.

Cougrrcj 

^^Agreed^^ but I thought what I had posted earlier was worth mentioning.

My '75 S-10S is a VERY pleasant ride, but since it is hi-ten and not CrMo it is a tad heavier at 27lbs vs the CrMo S-10S LTD at 25.5 - and some of that is also componentry. The actual frameset of hi-ten is probably less than a pound heavier, but has a bit more flex than CrMo. Still, for back in '75 it was relatively light compared to the 40-pound gas-pipe bikes like a department store cheapies, or even the lower in the Fuji line '74 Special Tourer I had previously that was NOT butted, and had steel components that weighed in at over 30 pounds.

bloud 

When you think of Fuji, I'm pretty sure most of you do not think BMX bikes. However in the late 70's, early 80's Fuji offered these with very high-end and expensive components. They were also quite expensive in the shops for a BMX bike.

This is my 1980 Fuji Feather Professional BMX I recently completed. I built it from a frame/fork I acquired a number of years back. Everything is original finish, and catalog correct parts with the exception of the chain. Took me quite a while to find all the parts.

ScottRyder 

Great build! and great photos too .... perhaps you can share them with my blog at some point.

Scott

aciresi132

I have an old fuji allegro and was wondering what you guys could tell me about the model i dont need specifics of my bike just an overall summary

itstom

Hey Fuji Fans,
Just got this 86 Del Rey and I'm psyched! I'm pretty new to working on bikes, but I think it might be something I'm going to spend more time on. If this isn't the right forum, let me know, but I figured if anyone knows, they're here... Anyway...

This bike seems to be all original per the catalog page on classicfuji.com, with a couple of exceptions.

The wheels are Ukai 700c x 25 laced to 36 hole Sansin Gyromaster hubs. They seem to be of the vintage, but catalog says the bike should have Ukai 27x1-1/8 with LePree hubs. Wondering if these came with the bike, or might have been a special order or later replacement. The brakes and levers (black DiaCompes) appear to be original, and are just barely long enough to catch the rim without hitting the tire. Should I be concerned about the corrosion around the spoke holes?




Stem is Nitto, but catalog says it should be black. I'd like to find a suitable replacement if anyone has one handy! Bars are black Olympiade.



Looks like the original chain. I need to clean it up, but there definitely appears to be some gold there.

Seller replaced the bar tape, which I think looks good on the bike, but unfortunately all the cables and housings are pretty rough. Judging by the kind of bizarre color of the housings, I think they're original too, and they need to be replaced.

Deraillers, jockey wheels, rings and freewheel all look and feel pretty good, so I think they're all ok with some cleanup.



What the heck is this thing on the drive side seat stay?


Has a pump peg brazed on to the head tube, but I don't know how that's supposed to work. Any advice appreciated.

One of the many things that appealed to me about this bike is that the crankset is drilled for a third ring, and I'd love to put one on as I'm getting old, and there are a few hills here. Will I have to (or can I) adjust the bottom bracket, or replace it? I'd think replacement wouldn't be necessary since this was apparently a "feature", but I'm not sure a third ring will fit as is. Presumably the FD can handle a triple. If anyone's done this, please let me know. Looks like about 70 - 75 bcd, but haven't accurately measured it yet. Considering trying out a biopace triple I saw on ebay. Comments?



The tires are a mess. It's rideable (I did about a 3 mile test ride with a couple small hills), but they're scary, so any tire recommendations are welcome. I plan on using it for 30 - 60 mile rides, mostly paved, but don't want to be confined to roads if an alternate route looks interesting.


Looking forward to hearing from you and getting it cleaned up and on the road!

layhole

Here's a Fuji Royale that I cleaned up. The previous owner had converted it to 700c. Unfortunately it was too tall for me.

rekmeyata

Nice bike. That was odd of Fuji for putting a black stem on it while using a silver seat post! Personally I think it looks better with the silver stem but I'm partial to the silver look, but if I were going do that then I would have gotten a silver handlebar to go with it. Either that or Fuji could have went all black but then should have had the derailleurs all black too, just because Suntour called them the black LePree just the inserts and lettering were black. They probably wanted to do an all black theme but not enough components back then were in black so they did it halfway. Today you can find black seat posts and black quill stems (Nitto Pearl)

Tire wise, if they have the original 27" rims you only have two choices for really nice tires. The first choice and it's the ones that I use on my 27" rimmed touring bike is the Panaracer Pasela with tan sidewalls to match the era. Pasela comes in either wire bead or folding but for some reason the folding is a lot more expensive, but the wire is under $30 while the folding adds $20. If you want a little bit better flat protection there is the Pasela TG but it only comes in wire. The Pasela tires do have a tread design and are directional which you may or may not like. The next tire is the Continental Gatorskin and Gator Hardshell, this is good tire with a mostly smooth tread design and comes only in a wire version, it has a dark brown sidewall instead of tan, the Hardshell is the most flat resistant of the two. There is one other tire that if you want something a wee bit cheaper then the others but not a crappy tire is the Vittoria Zaffiro, it's heavier then the other tires I mentioned and is only wire beaded and only black sidewalls with a semi smooth tread (kind of a cross between the Pasela and the Conti in tread design), and pretty good in flat protection but not as good as the Pasela Tg or the Gator Hardshell. I well tell you this, the Pasela TG wears like iron yet not slippery, it was a bit slippery on slick surfaces for the first 200 miles but since then they've been offering excellent traction, and so far in 1500 miles no flats and no signs of wear or cuts. However the Pasela TG is a pain to mount due to wire beading, at least on my rims, but I prefer my tires to be tough to put on because then I know if a blow out occurs they won't come of the rim very easily like the others will.

brebla

"What the heck is this thing on the drive side seat stay?"

It a chain peg - for temporarily holding the chain when the rear wheel is removed.

rekmeyata

Exactly, but why don't new bikes have those anymore? All my vintage bikes and the Mercian have them but you find them on any bikes that aren't custom steel. I always liked them for fixing flats especially handy when installing the wheel.

toytech

I guess my Series V should be here

bekonstructive

It might not be as fancy as a lot of these other bikes, but I picked up a '91 Fuji Palisade as my first venture on the paved side of biking. I'm currently commuting to work and running errands around town as I'm fixing her up. One thing I do have to say after riding many newer XC mountain bikes, is this thing definitely has character to it. It may not be the fastest, lightest, or most nimble, but I think I've found the newest permanent member of my collection and can't wait to try some of these other bikes I'm seeing!

ScottRyder 

We dont't care, they're all good! ToyTech, nice TSV!

Scott

kaydub

Nothing wrong with the bike other than some scuffs and scrapes in the paint. Honestly, I would keep it if I had somewhere to put it (it's riding in the trunk of my car at the moment, leaving me with no space for anything else). It rides great and the hi-ten frame and wide tires soak up rough pavement like a Cadillac.

Anyways, I cleaned it up some more last weekend and snapped a few shots last night before I put it up on CL...