All Things FUJI
#201
Photographer
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The other Cape, Cape Ann
Posts: 3,157
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
52 Posts
Scott
__________________
ClassicFuji.posthaven.com.archive
IG @scottryder.surf.cycle
IG @scottryder.fine.art
ClassicFuji.posthaven.com.archive
IG @scottryder.surf.cycle
IG @scottryder.fine.art
#202
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Somewhere North of Detroit and moving fast!
Posts: 696
Bikes: 1976 Fuji America 1980 Fuji America 1984 Fuji America TS V 1982 Fuji Royale II 1993 Trek 970 1997 Trek 5000 2004 Trek Calypso 2007 Trek Portland 2008 Surly LTH
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
#203
A collector.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 86
Bikes: Lots!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Great looking commuter! Love the detail around the lugs. Very nice...
This is a recent addition for me, a 1977 S-10S that I've assembled for use as a commuter. It still needs its rack, and it may get bar-end shifters some day. Right now, it's stock, except for the Shimano pedals and the Cane Creek replica hoods. The tires are 1 1/8 Pasellas. The saddle is the black Fujita Belt with the green synthetic inner liner. As others have said, this bike rides very, very smoothly (the axle to axle distance is 106cm). It shifts nicely and even the centerpull brakes work acceptably. I really like it. PG


__________________
Brian
Brian
#204
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La Conner, WA
Posts: 40
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1982 Fuji Royale, 1986 Raleigh Technium, 1984? Colnago Profil CX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
More BB consternation for consideration by the cognicenti: Newb with 82 Royale attempting upgrades. See post #198. Removing stock Super Maxy crank, installing Super Mighty "Victory". Existing spindle is 142mm overall (including threaded ends) 122mm to ends of taper. This is leaving a 15mm gap from inside of chainring to BB locknut, and a 8mm gap on the non-drive side when I mount the Mighty cranks on the Maxy spindle. (see attached sketch showing Mighty cranks in red, on the Maxy spindle). I am worried about the structural integrity of such a gap, which puts the cranks far outboard on the spindle. A Japanese parts catalog sheet seems to suggest that an MW-70 (overall length 114mm), or an MT-70 (overall length 119mm) might be appropriate. The parts numbers for the bearings are the same, so it should be interchangeable, n'est ce pas? All advice and leads appreciated beyond measure.

#205
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 2,992
Bikes: Cannondale T700s and a few others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
I wasn't sure when I read this thread the other day but I though you were going to find you have or need a asymmetric BB. I had a reply typed but deleted it thinking it might cause undo concern. Should have posted it after all.
Install the cranks and measure to the chain stays from the back of the crank arm at the peddle threads. If both sides measure the same then you should be fine. If they don't measure the same do the math and see if if the mismatch is the same as the difference you measured at the bottom bracket. If so you need a common symmetric BB.
Couple links.
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Measure the chain line as well. 42-45mm is a pretty safe number for most cranks. This link will explain how to measure..
https://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
From those tables and doing a little math you should be able to figure out what would be the measurements of the BB that will work correctly with the cranks. If its symmetric then that will be a very easy find. Most modern sealed BB's are symmetric. If its Asymmetric and what you have doesn't work that's going to be a bigger problem but that first link has some recommendations on using spacers to make it work.
Install the cranks and measure to the chain stays from the back of the crank arm at the peddle threads. If both sides measure the same then you should be fine. If they don't measure the same do the math and see if if the mismatch is the same as the difference you measured at the bottom bracket. If so you need a common symmetric BB.
Couple links.
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
Measure the chain line as well. 42-45mm is a pretty safe number for most cranks. This link will explain how to measure..
https://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
From those tables and doing a little math you should be able to figure out what would be the measurements of the BB that will work correctly with the cranks. If its symmetric then that will be a very easy find. Most modern sealed BB's are symmetric. If its Asymmetric and what you have doesn't work that's going to be a bigger problem but that first link has some recommendations on using spacers to make it work.
Last edited by Grim; 05-02-12 at 09:08 PM.
#206
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La Conner, WA
Posts: 40
Bikes: 1973 Raleigh Super Course, 1982 Fuji Royale, 1986 Raleigh Technium, 1984? Colnago Profil CX
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Grimm,
REF: #204 and 205 above.
Thank you for the detailed advice. I have done all the measurements that you and the Sheldon site suggest. There is a consistent 4mm offset to the drive side: from center of seat tube to back of drive crank is 64mm, to back of off-side crank is 60mm. This is on the existing 122 mm spindle. This sets the chainline at the cranks at 50 mm from the seat tube, well beyond the recommended 42-45mm range.
In looking at the specs for the MW-70 spindle (114mm overall length) it would reduce the drive side offset by 4.5 mm and the off-side by 5 mm. There would be no interference issues at the cranks, and the chainline would be brought toward the center of the bike by 4.5 mm resulting in a 46 mm dimension from the seat tube to the center of the two chainrings, bringing it very close to the recommended dimension.
I am therefore looking for a bottom bracket unit: MW-70 spindle (overall length 114mm) , with cups, crank bolts and washers, english threads (1.37"x24tpi). If anyone has one for sale, or knows of a commercial source, I would be happy to hear from you.
Thanks again.
REF: #204 and 205 above.
Thank you for the detailed advice. I have done all the measurements that you and the Sheldon site suggest. There is a consistent 4mm offset to the drive side: from center of seat tube to back of drive crank is 64mm, to back of off-side crank is 60mm. This is on the existing 122 mm spindle. This sets the chainline at the cranks at 50 mm from the seat tube, well beyond the recommended 42-45mm range.
In looking at the specs for the MW-70 spindle (114mm overall length) it would reduce the drive side offset by 4.5 mm and the off-side by 5 mm. There would be no interference issues at the cranks, and the chainline would be brought toward the center of the bike by 4.5 mm resulting in a 46 mm dimension from the seat tube to the center of the two chainrings, bringing it very close to the recommended dimension.
I am therefore looking for a bottom bracket unit: MW-70 spindle (overall length 114mm) , with cups, crank bolts and washers, english threads (1.37"x24tpi). If anyone has one for sale, or knows of a commercial source, I would be happy to hear from you.
Thanks again.
#207
Senior Member
New Old Day Tripper
Hey Fujinians, Fujites, or whatever the term is...I finally earned my entrance to the 'All Things FUJI' thread!
My wife spotted a 1980 Fuji Royale sitting on the porch of the local "Re-Store." I didn't even bother to take a 'before' pic (you know what dogs these look like after years of neglect), but it was mostly original and mostly there. I think someone had ridden it for years in a trainer, as it had earmarks of that---deeply indexed headset, swapped out corncob freewheel, and burned up rear wheel. But it was worth a chance at $50, she figured.
Anyway, had a ball re-building this as a day tripper from parts I had lying around: New housings/cable, new bar tape, SR stem/headset, nitto bars, shimano bar ends, $15 shimano 14-30 freewheel from the LBS, 36-46 biopace given to me by a local bike buddy (int the mountains here!), Eclipse rack/Cannondale bag from an old Trek I bought last year, original "Fuji" (Suntour) Vx derailleurs, and added paselas to the 27" Ukai wheels. Repacked and rebuilt everything else, including the Diacompe 610 centerpulls which work very well.
My wife and I went for a 4th of July shake down ride this AM, and fortunately there were no fireworks! Maybe my taste is just exceedingly pedestrian, but I think this is a nice bike. Handles well, rides well, accelerates well, and is comfortable. Gonna keep it for a spare and as a guest bike for friends who own mostly mountain bikes (so we can do day trips). Good stuff and a lot of fun. Thanks for looking!
My wife spotted a 1980 Fuji Royale sitting on the porch of the local "Re-Store." I didn't even bother to take a 'before' pic (you know what dogs these look like after years of neglect), but it was mostly original and mostly there. I think someone had ridden it for years in a trainer, as it had earmarks of that---deeply indexed headset, swapped out corncob freewheel, and burned up rear wheel. But it was worth a chance at $50, she figured.
Anyway, had a ball re-building this as a day tripper from parts I had lying around: New housings/cable, new bar tape, SR stem/headset, nitto bars, shimano bar ends, $15 shimano 14-30 freewheel from the LBS, 36-46 biopace given to me by a local bike buddy (int the mountains here!), Eclipse rack/Cannondale bag from an old Trek I bought last year, original "Fuji" (Suntour) Vx derailleurs, and added paselas to the 27" Ukai wheels. Repacked and rebuilt everything else, including the Diacompe 610 centerpulls which work very well.
My wife and I went for a 4th of July shake down ride this AM, and fortunately there were no fireworks! Maybe my taste is just exceedingly pedestrian, but I think this is a nice bike. Handles well, rides well, accelerates well, and is comfortable. Gonna keep it for a spare and as a guest bike for friends who own mostly mountain bikes (so we can do day trips). Good stuff and a lot of fun. Thanks for looking!

#208
Humble Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 20,874
Bikes: Fuji SL2.1 Carbon Di2 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 4 Trek Checkpoint ALR gravel Viscount Aerospace Pro Colnago Classic Rabobank Schwinn Paramount
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2899 Post(s)
Liked 5,393 Times
in
3,155 Posts
I have had a few vintage Fuji bikes over the years and have found all of them to be njce riding bikes. Enjoy!
__________________
#211
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,884
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
125 Posts
I have a 84 Fuji Club I bought used last year for $100 with only 5 miles on it, it still had the original tires with the nobs still on them. I haven't bought anything for it except tires, handlebar tape (I didn't like the original plastic tape so I replaced with yellow cork), and the Fizik saddle because the Fuji saddle sucked. I was having a problem with the Suntour ARX rear derailleur not shifting like the Suntours I'm use to, but after I rode it for about 250 miles it started to work a lot better.
https://classicfuji.com/1984_10_ClubFuji_Page.htm
https://classicfuji.com/1984_10_ClubFuji_Page.htm
#212
Senior Member
#213
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7
Bikes: 91 Trek 950, 1991 Fuji Ti Record Century, Trek OCLV, Carl Strong custom Ti
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I am not sure what to do with my old fuji. I have a new bike and my old bike is to cool (91 titanium record century as seen in 1991 catalog) to just get rid of to someone who is unappreciative. It just takes up space. I think of it as the only one in America, but I don't know that for sure. Where should it go? It's been used and has some scratches, the seat leather is worn out, but hay it's all campy and works just fine. I thought about trying to bring it all back to its original glory, but figured I'd screw up the finish.
#214
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,006
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1464 Post(s)
Liked 1,538 Times
in
805 Posts
I am not sure what to do with my old fuji. I have a new bike and my old bike is to cool (91 titanium record century as seen in 1991 catalog) to just get rid of to someone who is unappreciative. It just takes up space. I think of it as the only one in America, but I don't know that for sure. Where should it go? It's been used and has some scratches, the seat leather is worn out, but hay it's all campy and works just fine. I thought about trying to bring it all back to its original glory, but figured I'd screw up the finish.
#215
Senior Member
Sounds like an awesome bike, Joe. Wish I had the wherewithall to take it off your hands. Here's my re-vitalization of a 1977 Fuji Junior. Spent way too much money getting it powder coated, but very pleased with the end result. Wife would kill me if I brought another bike in the house at this point.
#216
Photographer
Join Date: May 2006
Location: The other Cape, Cape Ann
Posts: 3,157
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 104 Post(s)
Liked 97 Times
in
52 Posts
I am not sure what to do with my old fuji. I have a new bike and my old bike is to cool (91 titanium record century as seen in 1991 catalog) to just get rid of to someone who is unappreciative. It just takes up space. I think of it as the only one in America, but I don't know that for sure. Where should it go? It's been used and has some scratches, the seat leather is worn out, but hay it's all campy and works just fine. I thought about trying to bring it all back to its original glory, but figured I'd screw up the finish.
www.vintagefuji.posterous.com
Let me know if you have anything to share.
Scott
__________________
ClassicFuji.posthaven.com.archive
IG @scottryder.surf.cycle
IG @scottryder.fine.art
ClassicFuji.posthaven.com.archive
IG @scottryder.surf.cycle
IG @scottryder.fine.art
#217
Senior Member
My '75 S-10-S 'Special Road Racer' bought new in fall '76 as a scratched floor model. Ridden probably 35-40 thousand miles since then.

Just about every component has been replaced over the years. Just got a new (used) 27x1-1/8 Ukai wheelset for it to replace the cheap LBS generic wheelset that is on it now.

Just about every component has been replaced over the years. Just got a new (used) 27x1-1/8 Ukai wheelset for it to replace the cheap LBS generic wheelset that is on it now.
#219
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,884
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
125 Posts
I am not sure what to do with my old fuji. I have a new bike and my old bike is to cool (91 titanium record century as seen in 1991 catalog) to just get rid of to someone who is unappreciative. It just takes up space. I think of it as the only one in America, but I don't know that for sure. Where should it go? It's been used and has some scratches, the seat leather is worn out, but hay it's all campy and works just fine. I thought about trying to bring it all back to its original glory, but figured I'd screw up the finish.
#220
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Somewhere North of Detroit and moving fast!
Posts: 696
Bikes: 1976 Fuji America 1980 Fuji America 1984 Fuji America TS V 1982 Fuji Royale II 1993 Trek 970 1997 Trek 5000 2004 Trek Calypso 2007 Trek Portland 2008 Surly LTH
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
My 1975 Special Tourer. All original. This bike is a preservation not a restoration.
Behold!



Behold!




#221
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: NE Indiana
Posts: 8,884
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 151 Times
in
125 Posts
Cool!! Nice looking bike, and fantastic job of preserving it, it looks to be in showroom condition; congrats!! I love those lugs, their a bit longer then normal which is why I like them...I don't give a rats arse about them weighing more as some might argue, it's just the way they look that's cool.
Now for the big questions...how often do you ride it? When did you get? Is there a story behind it? Inquiring minds want to know!
#222
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just picked up this '86 Team Fuji. Will be working on it over the cold months.

Any way to get rid of this rust?

Any way to get rid of this rust?

#223
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ottawa Ontario
Posts: 181
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I picked up this frameset last week.
S.T.-12
It's going to be my single speed.
I did a search on the internet but i couldn't find this model.
The seller told me it was from the 1980's.
Serial # 77 J 91806
S.T.-12
It's going to be my single speed.

I did a search on the internet but i couldn't find this model.
The seller told me it was from the 1980's.
Serial # 77 J 91806
Last edited by Bikes and Jeeps; 08-31-12 at 08:46 PM.
#224
A collector.
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 86
Bikes: Lots!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Easy, barkeepers friend. You can soak the entire fork for 2 hours and it will all come off with a soft tooth brush. It did not harm my decals, but don't soak it too long.
__________________
Brian
Brian
#225
Humble Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kalamazoo MI
Posts: 20,874
Bikes: Fuji SL2.1 Carbon Di2 Cannondale Synapse Alloy 4 Trek Checkpoint ALR gravel Viscount Aerospace Pro Colnago Classic Rabobank Schwinn Paramount
Mentioned: 56 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2899 Post(s)
Liked 5,393 Times
in
3,155 Posts
SERIAL NUMBERS 1976-1978*:
Serial number format YYXZZZZZ where:
YY = two numbers indicating the year of production
X = a letter, indicating the calendar month of manufacturer (A = January, B = February, C = March, etc)
ZZZZZ = a five digit number sequence, probably indicating frame number during month
Example: 77B13425 indicates the 14.425th frame manufactured during February 1977.
__________________