Old Nishiki, any good?
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Old Nishiki, any good?
My first post here on this faboulus forum.
I need help regarding an old Nishiki Competition that im thinkin of buying.
Help in dating it and help if components are any good.
I think its between 82-86.
Components are
Suntour Cyclone M2, RD-3500 and FD-2300
Suntour Symmetrics LD-2300
Dia Compe brakes AC300G and brakehandles AC250G.
Frame number is Eg101260.
Made in Japan.
I will post pics later on.
I need help regarding an old Nishiki Competition that im thinkin of buying.
Help in dating it and help if components are any good.
I think its between 82-86.
Components are
Suntour Cyclone M2, RD-3500 and FD-2300
Suntour Symmetrics LD-2300
Dia Compe brakes AC300G and brakehandles AC250G.
Frame number is Eg101260.
Made in Japan.
I will post pics later on.
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nishiki_(bicycle)#Models
Giant made Nishiki bikes from 1980-1986 Their serial numbers were on the drive side dropout and began with G MM YY.
Pics of 70's Competition: https://www.slackers.net/~skoop/nishi...ition-MRoesch/
https://www.the-climb.net/2010/09/nis...mpetition.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ki-Competition
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ki-Competition
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tition-arrives!
The Competiton was a good bike.
Giant made Nishiki bikes from 1980-1986 Their serial numbers were on the drive side dropout and began with G MM YY.
Pics of 70's Competition: https://www.slackers.net/~skoop/nishi...ition-MRoesch/
https://www.the-climb.net/2010/09/nis...mpetition.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ki-Competition
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ki-Competition
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tition-arrives!
The Competiton was a good bike.
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Nishiki bicycles are good bikes and worth having. The Competition is a worthwhile bicycle, in my opinion. The one presented looks to be pretty big and the only thing I would worry about is fit. Does it fit the intended rider?
You can determine How Old Is My Bike? by clicking the link and applying the information contained there. The component group seems to be a quality one also and the numbers offered by them will help with determining vintage.
Look for numbers, or letters in many cases, that will help to determine when the part(s) was made. In the picture below, it is the WE that denotes what year (W) and what month (E) the part was made but you will have to access the code page to determine what each means. And how to do that is contained in the article, also...
[IMG]In the picture below, it is the WE that denotes what year (W) and what month (E) the part was made but you will have to access the code page to determine what each means. And how to do that is contained in the article, also.[/IMG]
Hope this is a help
You can determine How Old Is My Bike? by clicking the link and applying the information contained there. The component group seems to be a quality one also and the numbers offered by them will help with determining vintage.
Look for numbers, or letters in many cases, that will help to determine when the part(s) was made. In the picture below, it is the WE that denotes what year (W) and what month (E) the part was made but you will have to access the code page to determine what each means. And how to do that is contained in the article, also...
[IMG]In the picture below, it is the WE that denotes what year (W) and what month (E) the part was made but you will have to access the code page to determine what each means. And how to do that is contained in the article, also.[/IMG]
Hope this is a help
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You should be good for the frame size, unless you're all torso and no legs 
Those are very nice brakes and I've always wanted to build something with those top mount Suntour Symmetric shifters. Cyclone MII is good stuff. All points to the fact that Nishiki wouldn't put all these nice components on a crap bike.
Little cleaning and love that would be a beaut...depending on the asking price of course.
And if you get it, ping me via e-mail, I might be able to help with hoods for those levers: k e i t h at h a t f u l l . n e t

Those are very nice brakes and I've always wanted to build something with those top mount Suntour Symmetric shifters. Cyclone MII is good stuff. All points to the fact that Nishiki wouldn't put all these nice components on a crap bike.
Little cleaning and love that would be a beaut...depending on the asking price of course.
And if you get it, ping me via e-mail, I might be able to help with hoods for those levers: k e i t h at h a t f u l l . n e t
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Thanks for all the answers.
Done sum more research now and I think its from -84.
Still not sure.
Anyone know the weight?
I know the -83 model was 23lbs.
Bare in mind that this is the European model.
Done sum more research now and I think its from -84.
Still not sure.
Anyone know the weight?
I know the -83 model was 23lbs.
Bare in mind that this is the European model.
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Hunted a small Competetion for my girlfriend just now, but someone snagged it! Haven't been so snubbed for a long time! Had to settle for a Nishiki Arrow Ladies mixte, so Nishiki is pretty much where it's at in my household.
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If it was made in Japan instead of Taiwan it is likely of Kawamura manufacture. Production of Japanese bikes overlapped that of Taiwan.
(See West Coast Cycle history for additional detail.)
I own a c. 1983 Nishiki International and IMO it is a top-notch Japanese bike. Based on the details you provided, I would expect the Competition to be no less of a quality bike.
(See West Coast Cycle history for additional detail.)
I own a c. 1983 Nishiki International and IMO it is a top-notch Japanese bike. Based on the details you provided, I would expect the Competition to be no less of a quality bike.
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I can't decipher your S/N but the decal in the pics you posted says "Japan".
Fingers crossed.
Good luck making your best deal!
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Katching!!
The bike is mine. Just got it home.
Some additional info.
The bike is dark blue. Beleive its called Gun metall Blue.
Serialnumber is EC101260 not Eg as I wrote earlier.
Frame is Champion no2.
Fork also Champion.
Handlebars is Sakae custom Japan.
Hubs are Suntour superbe.
It even has an original lock attached to frame.
The weight is 23.32 lbs with the lock , front n back light, pedals(know new bikes claim weight without pedals) and a probably heavier late cheap model seat.
23.32lbs and the frame is 25inches!
But best of all.
It is almost like new. Not a scratch on the frame. Just some ugly reflexstickers.
Sad news is that on way home the wire got messed up when I transported it back of my car.
I will post pics soon.Dont know if I be able to post today, but Ill try.
The bike is mine. Just got it home.
Some additional info.
The bike is dark blue. Beleive its called Gun metall Blue.
Serialnumber is EC101260 not Eg as I wrote earlier.
Frame is Champion no2.
Fork also Champion.
Handlebars is Sakae custom Japan.
Hubs are Suntour superbe.
It even has an original lock attached to frame.
The weight is 23.32 lbs with the lock , front n back light, pedals(know new bikes claim weight without pedals) and a probably heavier late cheap model seat.
23.32lbs and the frame is 25inches!
But best of all.
It is almost like new. Not a scratch on the frame. Just some ugly reflexstickers.
Sad news is that on way home the wire got messed up when I transported it back of my car.
I will post pics soon.Dont know if I be able to post today, but Ill try.
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Good going!
And don't worry about that "wire" getting messed up - you'll want to remove the stickers and give that thing a thorough servicing, and all new expendables anyway.
Tange2 (Champion) is great stuff!
Looking forward to the pics.
And don't worry about that "wire" getting messed up - you'll want to remove the stickers and give that thing a thorough servicing, and all new expendables anyway.
Tange2 (Champion) is great stuff!
Looking forward to the pics.
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#17
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My first good road bike was a Nishiki Competition. Don't remember what year, but sometime around the middle 1970's. It was painted orange. In later years after having acquired and ridden other bikes I discovered that the Nishiki was the softest and most flexible frame I had/have ever ridden and had rather weird handling. When it was my only bike I liked it. After I rode others I really started disliking it.
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#18
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Looks pretty darn good to me, for someone starting out. Show us some good pictures when you get a chance. Good work!
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Heres some new pics.
As You can see I havent had time ceaning it yet.
Gonna take better pics in better light later on.
And it wasnt a 10speed as the seller said. It is 12speed.


As You can see I havent had time ceaning it yet.
Gonna take better pics in better light later on.
And it wasnt a 10speed as the seller said. It is 12speed.
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I know quite a bit about the early 70s models, having owned a 1971 (American Eagle Semi-Pro, just before the name change and lug change) and having wrenched at a Nishiki/Peugeot dealership 1972 to 1974. I do know that the model improved significantly during the 1970s, overcoming the spongy, leaden feel of mine. I happily rode mine for 20 years / 40K miles until the frame broke, and subsequently got the Bianchi and realized what I had been missing in the way of performance and response.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069