Going to the dark side: Upgrading after 40 years on vintage.
#1
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Going to the dark side: Upgrading after 40 years on vintage.
I just got back from a week and a half of riding in Spain on a bike tour on a modern road bike.
Though it was not geared low enough for my tastes, I did kinda warm up to the simplicity of the shifting; I assume it was Shimano. Not that friction shifting my NR is all that difficult, but it would be fun to build up a bike with a modern system.
What's the width of modern drivetrains? Probably too much for spreading an old frame?
Sorry, I'd still need lugs and a Brooks, but probably can't afford a modern lugged frame.
I know nothing about current stuff.
Though it was not geared low enough for my tastes, I did kinda warm up to the simplicity of the shifting; I assume it was Shimano. Not that friction shifting my NR is all that difficult, but it would be fun to build up a bike with a modern system.
What's the width of modern drivetrains? Probably too much for spreading an old frame?
Sorry, I'd still need lugs and a Brooks, but probably can't afford a modern lugged frame.
I know nothing about current stuff.
#2
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There are quite a few threads on this if you search around.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...STI-s-or-Ergos
quick answer:
You can permanently bend your frame (cold set) to 130mm spacing. Or do what some of us do and just spread the dropouts the few mm needed each time when inserting the rear wheel.
You also need a minumum of cassette, modern rear wheel, shifters, rear derailleur and chain to match the cassette.
Crankset, front derailleur are optional.
Generally, you need all the parts to match: ie Shimano 9 speed, or Shimano/Sram 10 speed, or Campy 10 speed (Various exceptions exist)
You can do a budget update with used/NOS parts, or get fancy and buy an entire new group.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...STI-s-or-Ergos
quick answer:
You can permanently bend your frame (cold set) to 130mm spacing. Or do what some of us do and just spread the dropouts the few mm needed each time when inserting the rear wheel.
You also need a minumum of cassette, modern rear wheel, shifters, rear derailleur and chain to match the cassette.
Crankset, front derailleur are optional.
Generally, you need all the parts to match: ie Shimano 9 speed, or Shimano/Sram 10 speed, or Campy 10 speed (Various exceptions exist)
You can do a budget update with used/NOS parts, or get fancy and buy an entire new group.
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Last edited by Homebrew01; 10-29-11 at 10:58 AM.
#3
Decrepit Member
I cold set the rear triangle on my 1973 Schwinn Super Sport (chromoly frame) from 120mm to 130mm using Sheldon's 2 x 4 method and put a modern 10 speed Campy group on it with a Campy Comp Triple crank. The precise ergo shifting and extremely wide range gearing make it much more versatile and easy to ride IMHO.









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Cool, thanks for the info. Guess I just need to buy a group and build the wheels. Of course, I realize the shifting is a complete system.
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You can get indexed shifting and still be C&V: Sturmey-Archer -- indexed shifting since 1902!
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I only recently started using index shifting (w/Hyperglide) and I gotta say, there ain't no going back, even if they're still on the downtube. After 30 years of fiction shifting, it's gonna be a while before I stop "throwing" the shifts to compensate, but I'll get used to being lazy eventually. Question: are most road bike front dérailleurs non-index at the chain wheel? I've never seen SIS front on road setups though my MTB has a massive Deore up front that is indexed.
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Campy's Ergo's have many little clicks (one throw of the lever can ratchet multiple clicks), simulating friction front shifting.
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When I read the thread I interpreted "dark side" as carbon frame. Since you will retain steel/lugs, I think you are just updating a bit. I hereforth propose BF members use the "dark side" moniker to refer to carbon based frames.
#11
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Some 8-10 speed indexed bar end shifters are the way to go... lighter than brifters, still a little C&V and no fussing around with an indexed front d.