1962? Raleigh Gran Sport
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
alright, well i picked up the rims from the shop. they are indeed the Dunlop Special Lightweights clubman spoke of. they look like they should clean up nicely (pic shows rim after a quick pass with some super fine steel wool).
27x1 1/4 Dunlop Special Lightweight by shnibop, on Flickr
after a closer inspection, it appears the rims are suppose to have these raised lips at the spoke hole. correct?
27x1 1/4 Dunlop Special Lightweight by shnibop, on Flickr
my bike shop buddy seems to think building steel rims is a total pain in the you know what. i've built 3 alloy rim wheelsets with little to no trouble (700c Sun M13II's, NOS 700c Mavic Open SUP's and 700c Velocity deep V's).
will it really be that much more difficult?
after rhm's last post i searched high and low and can't seem to find a polished 27in rim in 40h, that would have a matching 32h. i think i may have an easier time locating some 700c rims in 32/40h, so i test fitted some 700's...
front
700c wheel (front) by shnibop, on Flickr
700c wheel (front) by shnibop, on Flickr
rear
700c wheel (rear) by shnibop, on Flickr
700c wheel (rear) by shnibop, on Flickr
looks like they'll work if it comes to that.
anyone have 27in or 700c 32/40h polished alloy rims laying around
27x1 1/4 Dunlop Special Lightweight by shnibop, on Flickr
after a closer inspection, it appears the rims are suppose to have these raised lips at the spoke hole. correct?
27x1 1/4 Dunlop Special Lightweight by shnibop, on Flickr
my bike shop buddy seems to think building steel rims is a total pain in the you know what. i've built 3 alloy rim wheelsets with little to no trouble (700c Sun M13II's, NOS 700c Mavic Open SUP's and 700c Velocity deep V's).
will it really be that much more difficult?
after rhm's last post i searched high and low and can't seem to find a polished 27in rim in 40h, that would have a matching 32h. i think i may have an easier time locating some 700c rims in 32/40h, so i test fitted some 700's...
front
700c wheel (front) by shnibop, on Flickr
700c wheel (front) by shnibop, on Flickr
rear
700c wheel (rear) by shnibop, on Flickr
700c wheel (rear) by shnibop, on Flickr
looks like they'll work if it comes to that.
anyone have 27in or 700c 32/40h polished alloy rims laying around
Last edited by shnibop; 11-02-11 at 10:40 PM.
#27
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As much as I'd like to take the Dunlops off your hands, I am 100% certain you will end up using them. They are excellent rims, so don't feel bad about that. There are a couple downsides, namely they won't take super high pressure tires, and steel isn't as good for braking. Neither one is a dealbreaker IMHO but if you think it is, I'll send you my address.
I was lucky enough to pick up a pair of grey anodized Mavic MA2's in 32H and a pair of polished Wolber 58's in 40H, so after I removed the anodizing and labels from the Mavics, sanded and polished for an eternity, I had two pretty good pairs of rims. Not a perfect match, but I was pretty happy. I've used both now.
Before you build up your Dunlops, you might want to lay them on a perfectly flat floor (or table) and see how they look. If they're way out of true, bend them by hand until they are perfectly flat. A good way to do this is by standing on them. Put a magazine under a low spot and step (carefully) on both sides of it; and check. If that didn't help, add a magazine. Bend only a tiny bit at a time. The straighter you can get them before building, the straighter they'll be once built. As for roundness, the same thing applies. Ideally you draw a perfect 630 mm circle on the floor, but its probably good enough to compare the two rims against one another. Find the flat spots. To pull out a flat spot, put two pieces of lumber on the floor about a foot apart, hold the rim over them, and step. Easy does it!
On second though, that's too much work. Just send me the rims.
I was lucky enough to pick up a pair of grey anodized Mavic MA2's in 32H and a pair of polished Wolber 58's in 40H, so after I removed the anodizing and labels from the Mavics, sanded and polished for an eternity, I had two pretty good pairs of rims. Not a perfect match, but I was pretty happy. I've used both now.
Before you build up your Dunlops, you might want to lay them on a perfectly flat floor (or table) and see how they look. If they're way out of true, bend them by hand until they are perfectly flat. A good way to do this is by standing on them. Put a magazine under a low spot and step (carefully) on both sides of it; and check. If that didn't help, add a magazine. Bend only a tiny bit at a time. The straighter you can get them before building, the straighter they'll be once built. As for roundness, the same thing applies. Ideally you draw a perfect 630 mm circle on the floor, but its probably good enough to compare the two rims against one another. Find the flat spots. To pull out a flat spot, put two pieces of lumber on the floor about a foot apart, hold the rim over them, and step. Easy does it!
On second though, that's too much work. Just send me the rims.
#28
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Interesting tips on rim straightening. Are these ok to try on alloy rims as well? I've never tries to straighten out rims other than spoke tensioning. And the local co-op has a big recycling bin of wobbly alloy rims. Maybe I'll take some home to experiment with.
Sorry for the derail. i think my favorite thing about this bike is the little Gran Sport logo on the forks. Cool details like that make my day.
Sorry for the derail. i think my favorite thing about this bike is the little Gran Sport logo on the forks. Cool details like that make my day.
#29
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#30
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Thread Starter
i've been busy cleaning up some of the parts. many of the bits took a bath in OA, some got a light polishing.
while everything was in the OA bath i took the time to rebuild the hubs. after this pic was taken i went over them with some super fine steel wool to clean them up, won't be mirror-polishing most of the parts, trying to keep a factory look.
IMG_2278 by shnibop, on Flickr
rear derailleur before:
IMG_2231 by shnibop, on Flickr
after:
IMG_2282 by shnibop, on Flickr
crank, pedals, and front derailleur before:
IMG_2230 by shnibop, on Flickr
after:
IMG_2286 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2287 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2283 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2284 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2285 by shnibop, on Flickr
everything was completely disassembled, every nut and screw on the derailleurs was removed, cleaned and reassembled.
some of the bits still show traces of surface rust that should clean up with a brass bristled brush. didn't want to leave the RD in too long as i wasn't sure what the top and bottom parts of it were made of... non-magnetic. jockey wheels rebuilt as well.
the grease that was there prior to cleaning was unbelievably hard and crusty, took some serious scrubbing and soaking with citrus cleaner.
chrome is far from perfect, has a good amount of light pitting, but from 3 feet away, no one will ever tell.
on a side note, i noticed that the bottle cage is a bit tweaked. should i risk bending it back into shape? i've already pulled it forward a bit, now it needs to come up. there's a crack in the metal, afraid it may snap.
IMG_2279 by shnibop, on Flickr
while everything was in the OA bath i took the time to rebuild the hubs. after this pic was taken i went over them with some super fine steel wool to clean them up, won't be mirror-polishing most of the parts, trying to keep a factory look.
IMG_2278 by shnibop, on Flickr
rear derailleur before:
IMG_2231 by shnibop, on Flickr
after:
IMG_2282 by shnibop, on Flickr
crank, pedals, and front derailleur before:
IMG_2230 by shnibop, on Flickr
after:
IMG_2286 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2287 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2283 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2284 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2285 by shnibop, on Flickr
everything was completely disassembled, every nut and screw on the derailleurs was removed, cleaned and reassembled.
some of the bits still show traces of surface rust that should clean up with a brass bristled brush. didn't want to leave the RD in too long as i wasn't sure what the top and bottom parts of it were made of... non-magnetic. jockey wheels rebuilt as well.
the grease that was there prior to cleaning was unbelievably hard and crusty, took some serious scrubbing and soaking with citrus cleaner.
chrome is far from perfect, has a good amount of light pitting, but from 3 feet away, no one will ever tell.
on a side note, i noticed that the bottle cage is a bit tweaked. should i risk bending it back into shape? i've already pulled it forward a bit, now it needs to come up. there's a crack in the metal, afraid it may snap.
IMG_2279 by shnibop, on Flickr
#31
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This is going to be good - a carefull and considerate restoration. Good going shinibop!
Regarding the bottle cage, I'd just weld or braze it, and then clear coat the affected area so I would not have to deal withe the crack or the rust.
Regarding the bottle cage, I'd just weld or braze it, and then clear coat the affected area so I would not have to deal withe the crack or the rust.
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#32
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It's looking great, nice work.
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#33
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Yeah, it is looking good. I think it will come out very nice indeed.
Returning to the subject of rims, I forgot to mention something:
It is easy to lace a 32H rim to a 40H hub. You end up using two spoke sizes; 16 of them are a couple mm longer than what you'd use on a 32H hub, and the others are a little shorter than what you'd use with a 32H hub.
This way you can build up your racelites with any pair of matching 32H rims you like. It will not look strange; I bet no one will notice.
Best thing about this is you can toss your Dunlop rims in the mail to me.
Returning to the subject of rims, I forgot to mention something:
It is easy to lace a 32H rim to a 40H hub. You end up using two spoke sizes; 16 of them are a couple mm longer than what you'd use on a 32H hub, and the others are a little shorter than what you'd use with a 32H hub.
This way you can build up your racelites with any pair of matching 32H rims you like. It will not look strange; I bet no one will notice.
Best thing about this is you can toss your Dunlop rims in the mail to me.
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
thank you both, i'm doing my best haha
Yeah, it is looking good. I think it will come out very nice indeed.
Returning to the subject of rims, I forgot to mention something:
It is easy to lace a 32H rim to a 40H hub. You end up using two spoke sizes; 16 of them are a couple mm longer than what you'd use on a 32H hub, and the others are a little shorter than what you'd use with a 32H hub.
This way you can build up your racelites with any pair of matching 32H rims you like. It will not look strange; I bet no one will notice.
Best thing about this is you can toss your Dunlop rims in the mail to me.
Returning to the subject of rims, I forgot to mention something:
It is easy to lace a 32H rim to a 40H hub. You end up using two spoke sizes; 16 of them are a couple mm longer than what you'd use on a 32H hub, and the others are a little shorter than what you'd use with a 32H hub.
This way you can build up your racelites with any pair of matching 32H rims you like. It will not look strange; I bet no one will notice.
Best thing about this is you can toss your Dunlop rims in the mail to me.
i've actually been lucky enough to score some matching 32h/40h 27"x1 1/4 Weinmann rims from another member. they are just about perfect in my opinion! i will post pics when they arrive.
on another note, does anyone have a pair of either one of these wingnuts?
IMG_2288 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2289 by shnibop, on Flickr
i'm looking for a pair of the Huret Luxe wingnuts for the front or a pair of the Benelux "Cyclo" wingnuts for the rear. doubt the bike came this way from the factory.
i'll also be in the market for a set of Bluemel "Classique" fenders in black (original color) or cream/white. condition wouldn't need to be perfect, if it fit the condition of the rest of the bike that would be best. if i can't find Bluemels, i will go without fenders.
Last edited by shnibop; 11-15-11 at 09:16 PM.
#35
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Nice to see another G.S. Coming back to life, you are doing a great job!
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Last edited by redneckwes; 11-15-11 at 11:31 PM.
#36
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Hey Aaron, I've still got your bluemels fenders hanging around in my basement for you.
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|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
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#37
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#38
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Ha...maybe I should have sent a PM. Aaron paid for those fenders a long ways back so you'd have to wrestle him for them.
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|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
|^^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ||
|......GO.BROWNS........| ||'|";, ___.
|_..._..._______===|=||_|__|..., ] -
"(@)'(@)"""''"**|(@)(@)*****''(@)
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
little update:
first i want to say i love how there's a little Raleigh logo all over the place
Raleigh branding by shnibop, on Flickr
frame and fork all cleaned up and lightly waxed, didn't do much to bring out the color, it's pretty well faded. headset and bottom bracket rebuilt, everything was clean and smooth!
1962 Raleigh Gran Sport frame set by shnibop, on Flickr
can anyone tell me how much seat post i want inserted in the frame? it's not marked, and it's steel so i'm assuming less than a typical alloy post... maybe?
cleaned up the stem, bars and brake levers and wrapped the bars in black cloth tape, original according to the catalog. quick release tabs were removed from the levers as they were both broken, oh well.
GB cockpit by shnibop, on Flickr
GB cockpit by shnibop, on Flickr
GB Super Hood Rapide levers by shnibop, on Flickr
acquired some rims from a fellow BF member, they're alloy, they look the part and they're in excellent condition! actually the 40h rear is NOS, the front 32h should clean up and look just as good. still no groove for the tire bead, oh well, low PSI for this steed.
Weinmann 27x1 1/4 by shnibop, on Flickr
Weinmann 27x1 1/4 alloy rims by shnibop, on Flickr
plus i scored some replacement Campagnolo Gran Sport shifters to replace the bent lever on the originals
Campagnolo Gran Sport shifters by shnibop, on Flickr
first i want to say i love how there's a little Raleigh logo all over the place
Raleigh branding by shnibop, on Flickr
frame and fork all cleaned up and lightly waxed, didn't do much to bring out the color, it's pretty well faded. headset and bottom bracket rebuilt, everything was clean and smooth!
1962 Raleigh Gran Sport frame set by shnibop, on Flickr
can anyone tell me how much seat post i want inserted in the frame? it's not marked, and it's steel so i'm assuming less than a typical alloy post... maybe?
cleaned up the stem, bars and brake levers and wrapped the bars in black cloth tape, original according to the catalog. quick release tabs were removed from the levers as they were both broken, oh well.
GB cockpit by shnibop, on Flickr
GB cockpit by shnibop, on Flickr
GB Super Hood Rapide levers by shnibop, on Flickr
acquired some rims from a fellow BF member, they're alloy, they look the part and they're in excellent condition! actually the 40h rear is NOS, the front 32h should clean up and look just as good. still no groove for the tire bead, oh well, low PSI for this steed.
Weinmann 27x1 1/4 by shnibop, on Flickr
Weinmann 27x1 1/4 alloy rims by shnibop, on Flickr
plus i scored some replacement Campagnolo Gran Sport shifters to replace the bent lever on the originals
Campagnolo Gran Sport shifters by shnibop, on Flickr
#40
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Where's that 'Like' button? Wonderful job.
#42
Senior Member
this thread is awesome....I so, so, so, so want one of those bikes.
#43
Senior Member
Man, you're doing really nice work, shnibop.
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#44
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Matt, I need to make a trip over you way after the semester ends, and I get my car back from the transmission shop.
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I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
#45
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#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
alright, time for another update...
i finally got the wheels together so i figured i'd take some pics.
IMG_2424 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2425 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2426 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2428 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2430 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2431 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2432 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2433 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2434 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2435 by shnibop, on Flickr
new additions are:
-Panaracer Paselas, 27x1 1/4
-NOS white GB SuperHood brake hoods
-"patina'd" Brooks saddle (B15 i think)
-Campagnolo Nuovo Gran Sport shifters
i need to adjust the cones on the rear wheel, they're a bit loose for some reason, maybe i didn't button them up after the rebuild/cleanup
headset needs adjusting, it's binding a bit. pretty sure one of the cups isn't completely flush with the head tube
i should mention, i wasn't planning on running brake lever hoods. i spotted these on eBay and thought i was bidding on 5 sets, little did i come to find out i was bidding on 1 set. oh well, my mistake for not reading more carefully. they look good i think, although half hoods are what they originally came with.
i may try corks in the bar ends as opposed to the caps that came with the bike, they're dirty and ugly and i like the idea of the corks instead
also, the drive-side crank is just in there for photos. still need to pick up new pins.
at this point, i have almost everything i need to finish her up. just have to clean up the calipers, install the Kool-Stop Continental pads.
shopping list:
-straddle cables
-cotter pins
-Bluemels, cream/white
if you have anything on my list let me know
i finally got the wheels together so i figured i'd take some pics.
IMG_2424 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2425 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2426 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2428 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2430 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2431 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2432 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2433 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2434 by shnibop, on Flickr
IMG_2435 by shnibop, on Flickr
new additions are:
-Panaracer Paselas, 27x1 1/4
-NOS white GB SuperHood brake hoods
-"patina'd" Brooks saddle (B15 i think)
-Campagnolo Nuovo Gran Sport shifters
i need to adjust the cones on the rear wheel, they're a bit loose for some reason, maybe i didn't button them up after the rebuild/cleanup
headset needs adjusting, it's binding a bit. pretty sure one of the cups isn't completely flush with the head tube
i should mention, i wasn't planning on running brake lever hoods. i spotted these on eBay and thought i was bidding on 5 sets, little did i come to find out i was bidding on 1 set. oh well, my mistake for not reading more carefully. they look good i think, although half hoods are what they originally came with.
i may try corks in the bar ends as opposed to the caps that came with the bike, they're dirty and ugly and i like the idea of the corks instead
also, the drive-side crank is just in there for photos. still need to pick up new pins.
at this point, i have almost everything i need to finish her up. just have to clean up the calipers, install the Kool-Stop Continental pads.
shopping list:
-straddle cables
-cotter pins
-Bluemels, cream/white
if you have anything on my list let me know
#47
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Simply stunning!
I think I might have to build a set of wheels for mine, I've only ridden it a few yards as the current rims won't hold past about 75psi.
I think I might have to build a set of wheels for mine, I've only ridden it a few yards as the current rims won't hold past about 75psi.
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I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
I have a white PX-10, a Green Dawes Galaxy and an Orange Falcon, now I'm done.
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
oh, forgot the mention this little issue...
IMG_2427 by shnibop, on Flickr
after rebuilding the rear hub i guess the axle was moved left or right and now the wingnut hits the derailleur... grrr
i'm tempted to try and locate acorn/dome nuts instead, i've seen several Gran Sports with those vs wingnuts
what would you do? fiddle with the axle left/right so the threads allow the wingnut to bottom out while being perpendicular to the ground or run acorns?
edit: upon further inspection i wonder if the derailleur had to be removed each time? the wing hits it several turns before bottoming out... hmmm...
IMG_2427 by shnibop, on Flickr
after rebuilding the rear hub i guess the axle was moved left or right and now the wingnut hits the derailleur... grrr
i'm tempted to try and locate acorn/dome nuts instead, i've seen several Gran Sports with those vs wingnuts
what would you do? fiddle with the axle left/right so the threads allow the wingnut to bottom out while being perpendicular to the ground or run acorns?
edit: upon further inspection i wonder if the derailleur had to be removed each time? the wing hits it several turns before bottoming out... hmmm...
#49
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Raleigh Gran Sport/Huffy Mark 10
Mine was purchased in Syracuse, NY in June of '63; paid $89.
Note that it was badged as a Huffy Mark 10.
Note that it was badged as a Huffy Mark 10.
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'63 Huffy Mark 10 = '63 Raleigh Gran Sport
'63 Huffy Mark 10 = '63 Raleigh Gran Sport
Last edited by mtree; 01-25-12 at 02:31 PM. Reason: delete photo
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multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
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Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
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oh, forgot the mention this little issue...
IMG_2427 by shnibop, on Flickr
after rebuilding the rear hub i guess the axle was moved left or right and now the wingnut hits the derailleur... grrr
i'm tempted to try and locate acorn/dome nuts instead, i've seen several Gran Sports with those vs wingnuts
what would you do? fiddle with the axle left/right so the threads allow the wingnut to bottom out while being perpendicular to the ground or run acorns?
edit: upon further inspection i wonder if the derailleur had to be removed each time? the wing hits it several turns before bottoming out... hmmm...
IMG_2427 by shnibop, on Flickr
after rebuilding the rear hub i guess the axle was moved left or right and now the wingnut hits the derailleur... grrr
i'm tempted to try and locate acorn/dome nuts instead, i've seen several Gran Sports with those vs wingnuts
what would you do? fiddle with the axle left/right so the threads allow the wingnut to bottom out while being perpendicular to the ground or run acorns?
edit: upon further inspection i wonder if the derailleur had to be removed each time? the wing hits it several turns before bottoming out... hmmm...