tastewar

I have a 1977 Fuji Junior that I've worked on restoring with my daughter, and essentially the last piece that I'd like to refurbish is the headbadge. Here's a pic of it in its current state:


Fuji head badge by tastewar, on Flickr

Both the paint and the metal appear to need some TLC. Here's the color I guess I'd like to match:


P1060103 by tastewar, on Flickr

Here's the bike in its current state:


P1060099 by tastewar, on Flickr

And here's where the headbadge is destined to live:


P1060104 by tastewar, on Flickr

Which brings up a related question -- attachment. I'd like to get close to the original method. Some research in these forums and elsewhere suggest that "u drive screws" are the correct fastener. Can anyone confirm? Found these on eBay -- are they the right thing? $5 seems a lot for a pair, but I've not found other online sources for small quantities, and brass seems a little trickier to find. Should I just go for the eBay ones, or do others have leads on other sources. And what's the right size??

Thanks!

rootboy 

As for restoration, can't help much but I think I'd try model car paint. Depends how good you are with a small brush I suppose. As to the drive screws, yes, those are the little buggers. I too think five bucks is a bit much. Size? I note the ebay seller doesn't mention diameter. An important oversight. What is the diameter of the holes in the head Tube? I may have a couple of these that might work, but don't hold me to it. Send me a PM with the size of the holes. Measure with a twist drill bit as close as you can. As an alternative, if you have one of those cheap pop rivet guns you could use small aluminum rivets to attach it, though it wouldn't look quite as nice. Was was holding it on originally?

tastewar

Model car paint is what I was thinking, too. I will measure and get back to you. What was holding it on? Good question. The powder coater removed it, so I don't know for sure. They looked like some type of rivet, though -- just a plain, slightly rounded head as I recall.

SteveSGP

Here's a couple Fuji head badges for reference.

1980s


1974


I should mention that the 1974 badge probably has the truer colors on it since it basically sat unused in a friends grandmothers basement all it's life and had almost zero exposure to sunlight.

Snydermann

While I haven't restored any bike badges yet I have restored multi colored woodworking equipment badges. I ususally strip off all the original paint and then polish the exposed areas.

I use Bare-Metal Foil from the hobby shop as a mask. Model car builders use it to replicate chrome. It's very flexible, super thin and has a light adhesive to it. Rub the foil down onto the emblem being sure to form it into the corners well. Use an exacto knife to trim out the recessed areas, it's actually easier than it sounds. I use a air brush to add the colors (model paint), a regular brush never seems to replicate the quality of the originals. Remove the foil mask before the emblem paint is totally dry. A few minutes in the oven helps cure the paint.

Here is an emblem I did this way for my bandsaw. I'd guess the emblem is about 2" in diameter.

rootboy 

I have to say, I am one hunnert percent totally impressed by this. "Easier than it sounds" ? I was going to make a suggestion to the OP regarding air brushes, etc., but stopped myself. Not everyone is into it to that extent. Buy you obviously are, Snydermann. That is outstanding work. Beautiful job. RB.

SteveSGP

Having attempted bare metal foil on a couple model cars you have my respect, I found it to be a giant pain to work with but it might be easier on metal bits.

illwafer

ebay has headbadges on occasion

Snydermann

Thanks everyone. Honestly, it really isn't that difficult. Cover the whole badge with one piece of Bare-Metal foil and burnish it down with a Q-tip or something like that. Use a sharp X-Acto mini blade to trace around the inside base of the sections you want to paint. Because you are tracing an inside 90 degree edge it's kind of self-tracking with the blade. Peel off the waste portions and lightly burnish down the foil before painting. I use regular masking tape to lightly mask off between the different color areas as that isn't as critical.

I just use regular model paint with the air brush, just get enough paint on the emblem to get it covered. These things were probably painted super-fast at the factory, so the coating doesn't need to be thick. Be sure to remove the foil mask before the paint dries. Use tweezers or a toothpick if needed. I put mine in a warm oven for a few minutes after it was painted, but that was probably optional.

tastewar

@FORDSVTPARTS: I'm jealous -- nice badges! (and nice bikes they're attached to, from what I can see)
@Snyderman: that is a very professional looking paint job on that badge. Wish I could send you my Fuji. I've little enough experience painting with a brush, and none with an airbrush.
@illwafer: true, and I have looked. Even found one available off the bay, but not in 100% better condition than mine. Don't know that I have the patience to wait for such a specific part to come up for auction.

SteveSGP

Thanks, They were both nice bikes. They were rehabbed and sold earlier this year, I really like working on those old Fujis.

zandoval 

Thanks for the methods - Will add these post to my note book...

southpawboston

I've restored a few headbadges. My technique for embossed metal badges where the paint is filled between the embossments, is to strip and polish the badge entirely with steel wool and dish soap, then refill with paint without much care about overspill onto the embossed surfaces. I don't mask. Finally, after the paint dries, I do another light polishing over the embossed surfaces to remove the paint overage. Here's an example:



I think this method works better when you have a lot of small paint filled areas like the above badge. In these cases, it's actually hard to mess up when doing the final polishing, as the filled areas of paint are really hard to remove with light sanding/polishing . The Fuji badge is much simpler, with larger, more exposed, painted areas. This might actually by more difficult for removing the excess paint without inadvertently removing some from the fill regions. In this case, I think snydermann's method may be better. (By the way, that's an incredible badge resto, snydermann!!).

iab 

I'd use silicone adhesive to attach the badge. It won't let go, exands and contacts in heat and cold and won't mar the paint. To remove the badge at a later date, a fine piece of wire worked down between the badge and the head tube will do the trick.

Get some nice brass machine flat head screws at your Ace and cut the heads off. Adhere the heads to the badge with the silicone adhesive. Completely fake, but looks real and easy to undo.

southpawboston

You described *exactly* how I affix my headbadges. Except I use nail heads as faux rivets.

MrEss

The headbadge on my Atala looked even worse than your Fuji badge, tastewar. I had considered using model paint, because the colored areas are so tiny and intricate as to defy all my efforts at masking.

In the end, I decided simply to polish up the brass and leave it that way.

By the way, I affixed mine with tiny flat head screws (M2 or M1.5 I think) and hex nuts inside the head tube. I picked them tiny and short enough that they don't rub on the steerer.

Alex Moll

The other fellas are right - that's impressive work. Thanks for sharing your technique!

tru

which silicone adhesive do you use? I plan attaching a headbadge soon and I'm not sure if I want to drill/tap the headtube if I can simply glue or tape it on.

iab 

The cheap clear one in the tile and bath section of my local Ace hardware. I believe it has a 12-24 hour setup time. Use masking tape to hold it in place while it sets up.