Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Classic & Vintage
Reload this Page >

Better Brakes for Nishiki International

Notices
Classic & Vintage This forum is to discuss the many aspects of classic and vintage bicycles, including musclebikes, lightweights, middleweights, hi-wheelers, bone-shakers, safety bikes and much more.

Better Brakes for Nishiki International

Old 11-16-11, 05:19 PM
  #1  
Kawriverrat
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 95

Bikes: Old Nishiki, rockhopper

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Better Brakes for Nishiki International

Wasnt sure where to post this. I have a Nishiki International 20-25 yrs. old that I am hoping to upgrade the brakes on. Presently it has the original Dia-Compe brakes on it.

What would be the best upgrade for the money regarding brakes?
Also I presently am running 32s appears there is more room. Any one know how big I can comfortably go?
Kawriverrat is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 05:23 PM
  #2  
gaucho777 
Senior Member
 
gaucho777's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 6,577

Bikes: '72 Cilo Pacer, '72 Peugeot PX10, '73 Speedwell Ti, '74 Nishiki Competition, '74 Peugeot UE-8, '85 De Rosa Pro, '86 Look Equipe 753, '86 Look KG86, '89 Parkpre Team, '90 Parkpre Team MTB, '90 Merlin

Mentioned: 65 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 493 Post(s)
Liked 195 Times in 95 Posts
Do you have a model number for the brakes? Are they center-pull brakes? Before you replace the brakes, you might consider simply replacing the pads. Brake pads will harden after 20-25 years, and you will notice much improved performance with new pads. Kool Stop is widely considered the best option for replacement pads.

As for new tire clearance, photos will help. It's hard to say for sure without seeing the bike. Plus, we love photos!
__________________
-Randy

'72 Cilo Pacer • '72 Peugeot PX10 • '73 Speedwell Ti • '74 Nishiki Competition • '74 Peugeot UE-8 • '86 Look Equipe 753 • '86 Look KG86 • '89 Parkpre Team Road • '90 Parkpre Team MTB • '90 Merlin Ti

Avatar photo courtesy of jeffveloart.com, contact: contact: jeffnil8 (at) gmail.com.
gaucho777 is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 05:44 PM
  #3  
dddd
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
 
dddd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 7,533

Bikes: Cheltenham-Pederson racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.

Mentioned: 106 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 925 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 315 Times in 240 Posts
My International had Centerpulls, and the brakes were quite strong after I tuned it up (I may have put better pads on???).

That bike had alloy rims, btw.
dddd is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 06:12 PM
  #4  
Kawriverrat
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 95

Bikes: Old Nishiki, rockhopper

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks for your reply. The pads have been replaced, not to long ago. I think they are center pulls. I will try the Kool stop Pads. I will also try & get some pics of existing clearance on the front & back. Probably will be a bit after 9:00 pm Kansas time before I can get to it.

Again, the help is appreciated!
Kawriverrat is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 06:19 PM
  #5  
toosahn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 229
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Tektro makes nice long reach dual-pivot brakes.
toosahn is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 06:28 PM
  #6  
No Whey
Senior Member
 
No Whey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Kawriverrat View Post
Wasnt sure where to post this. I have a Nishiki International 20-25 yrs. old that I am hoping to upgrade the brakes on. Presently it has the original Dia-Compe brakes on it.

What would be the best upgrade for the money regarding brakes?
Also I presently am running 32s appears there is more room. Any one know how big I can comfortably go?
Lined housing, and jagwire/QBP slick cables, salmon Kool Stop pads (continental or Eagle II I think).
After that long the cables and housing need replacement anyway.
That will improve your braking quite a bit.

Of course, that's if you want it to remain close to original.
No Whey is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 07:36 PM
  #7  
Ciufalon
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 927

Bikes: A few

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Be sure to take photos of the clearance between the lower rear stays.
Ciufalon is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 08:14 PM
  #8  
illwafer
)) <> ((
 
illwafer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 2,412
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
i would say replace the pads as well. ive never encountered a bike where i wanted to replace the brakes. some definitely work better than others, but for almost all will stop you safely.
illwafer is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 08:26 PM
  #9  
DiegoFrogs
Senior Member
 
DiegoFrogs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 2,426

Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (in USA)

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 111 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times in 16 Posts
I've ridden mostly low-end bikes my whole life, and with some work I've always been able to get both brakes to skid the wheels. The only exception is, of course, steel rims.
DiegoFrogs is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 08:34 PM
  #10  
randyjawa 
Senior Member
 
randyjawa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada - burrrrr!
Posts: 10,048

Bikes: 1958 Rabeneick 120D, 1968 Legnano Gran Premio, Rocky Mountain Cardiac, 196? Torpado Professional

Mentioned: 168 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 853 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 416 Times in 277 Posts
The Nishiki International, came with either side pull calipers, or center pull cantilever brakes. Here is a picture of an International featuring the canti brake set-up. If this is what the OP has, all he needs is new brake pads. I have found these cantilever brakes to work just fine...
__________________
"98% of the bikes I buy are projects".
randyjawa is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 08:42 PM
  #11  
KonAaron Snake 
Fat Guy on a Little Bike
 
KonAaron Snake's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 17,118

Bikes: Two wheeled ones

Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1215 Post(s)
Liked 189 Times in 108 Posts
What rims are on it? Do they have any machining? Are they clean? I agree with everyone else, it's never the brakes, it's the pads, rims, and toe in.
KonAaron Snake is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 09:12 PM
  #12  
John E
feros ferio
 
John E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
Posts: 19,955

Bikes: 1959 & 1960 Capo; 1982 Bianchi; 1988 Schwinn KOM-10;

Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 845 Post(s)
Liked 202 Times in 161 Posts
I assume it does NOT have black anodized rims, which compromise braking performance. KoolStop salmon pads will help quite a bit. Another trick is to replace just the levers with aero-style units, which will boost your braking force by about 10%. I had to do this on my Bianchi, because the original Modolo levers required too long a finger reach for fast braking from me. I substituted aero Shimano units, which helped noticeably. but braking was still horrible w/ black Shimano pads.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324
Capo: 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
John E is offline  
Old 11-16-11, 10:47 PM
  #13  
Kawriverrat
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Kansas
Posts: 95

Bikes: Old Nishiki, rockhopper

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by KonAaron Snake View Post
What rims are on it? Do they have any machining? Are they clean? I agree with everyone else, it's never the brakes, it's the pads, rims, and toe in.
They are aluminum alloy & they are clean. Going by the pic posted by randyjawa I have center pull brakes. The fork in the pic may be the same as mine. The different brake set up kind of makes it hard to tell. The one difference is my lugs on the fork are chrome. Also I have bar end shifters. I have come to really like & enjoy this bike! These old Nishikis make fantastic do it all, commuter bikes.
You all have convinced me to change out the pads for Kool Stops. Soon as I find my cammera I will post pics of existing tire clearance.
Really want to know how big I can go on tires. Especially with icy roads being a possibility any time now.

Last edited by Kawriverrat; 11-16-11 at 10:51 PM.
Kawriverrat is offline  
Old 11-17-11, 09:37 AM
  #14  
T-Mar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 20,118
Mentioned: 529 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3412 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 807 Times in 629 Posts
The International eveolved quite a bit over the years, It could have side side, centre-pull or cantilever brakes.

As previously suggested, clean the rims and upgade to some good pads and cable housing. I'd also change the cables themselves. It's not unusual for manufacturers to scrimp by using light gauge cables, which results in spongy brakes. If they are cantilever brakes, as per Randy's pics, improperly set pads can severely alter performance, though after this amount of time, they'd normally have conformed to the rim.

If there is sufficient frame clearances, recommended safe maximum tire widths are based on the rim width and flange style. Standard rims will safely accommodate tires up to 2x times the rim width (measured between the inside of the rim flanges). Rims with hooked-edges on the inside of the flanges extend the maximum tire width up to 2.25 times the rim width.
T-Mar is offline  
Old 11-17-11, 09:40 AM
  #15  
noglider 
aka Tom Reingold
 
noglider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: High Falls, NY, USA
Posts: 39,177

Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem

Mentioned: 475 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6506 Post(s)
Liked 1,045 Times in 693 Posts
Whether you replace the calipers or levers or both or neither, replace the cables and housings. New stuff usually works better than old, except with the old English 3-speeds.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog

“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author

Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
noglider is offline  
Old 11-17-11, 09:53 AM
  #16  
sauze
Senior Member
 
sauze's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 950
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Originally Posted by noglider View Post
Whether you replace the calipers or levers or both or neither, replace the cables and housings. New stuff usually works better than old, except with the old English 3-speeds.

A big +1 to this, I was amazed at the performance increase I got by replacing 20 year old cables + housing (after typing that I realized I probably shouldn't have been amazed ... still )
sauze is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
prairiepedaler
Bicycle Mechanics
6
03-25-18 05:46 PM
09box
Classic & Vintage
5
04-03-15 11:44 AM
bh357
Classic & Vintage
18
05-22-14 05:52 AM
Ansir
Road Cycling
12
11-05-10 05:30 AM
tek336
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
36
08-01-10 10:48 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.