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Chronicle, Rossin & Chrome - The *Long* Road of Restoration

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Chronicle, Rossin & Chrome - The *Long* Road of Restoration

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Old 11-19-11, 01:22 PM
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Thanks, thanks. The story was just going to be a boring paragraph. The words just kind of fell out of my brain in the right order, and kept coming out. Soon as I know it, I have this novel story!

Originally Posted by gaucho777
Beautiful work! Really diggin' the custom head badge. Classiest Rossin ever?

Btw, what did you use to strip the black paint?
I have the luxury of an entire paint and restoration shop, so I can kind of cheat a bit. Airplane paint remover (the gel) is the best stuff, but will literally take all the paint / decals / etc off. I knew I wanted to start anew on this, so I went between an acid tank, carb cleaner tank, then gel paint remover, then glass bead, then acid wash, soap wash and off to the plater. Doing all that saves the plater a huge amount of work - he/she can literally just dip it at that point. Any competent plater can do the removal and prep work though.
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Old 11-19-11, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vjp
Looks great!

You should use a cable ferrule where the housing goes into the brake cable adjuster...
campagnolo brake adjusters are very small. most normal ferrules will not fit (step downs will) ive run campy brakes for years without ferrules.
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Old 11-19-11, 01:46 PM
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Fantastic! Well done, blaise! Chrome!
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Old 11-19-11, 02:21 PM
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In Southern California there are good chrome shops but the cost is silly expensive for a frame. A fork can get done.
While interviewing some chrome platers around here they are really wary of cross tank contamination. I don't blame them. Most frames have problem areas, the seat stays. Forks also have often a vent hole at one end, usually adjacent to the end, but not at the end, so tank fluid can get in and without diligent effort stays inside. A second hole is suggested to help empty the tube faster.

In addition, it is interesting the plater would work over a glass beaded prior plated part, normally they want to "deplate" the part first. Deplating chrome is interesting to me as many tubes have chrome in the alloy... too much deplating is no good.

Any insight into what the plater did in this case?
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Old 11-19-11, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by repechage
In Southern California there are good chrome shops but the cost is silly expensive for a frame. A fork can get done.
While interviewing some chrome platers around here they are really wary of cross tank contamination. I don't blame them. Most frames have problem areas, the seat stays. Forks also have often a vent hole at one end, usually adjacent to the end, but not at the end, so tank fluid can get in and without diligent effort stays inside. A second hole is suggested to help empty the tube faster.

In addition, it is interesting the plater would work over a glass beaded prior plated part, normally they want to "deplate" the part first. Deplating chrome is interesting to me as many tubes have chrome in the alloy... too much deplating is no good.

Any insight into what the plater did in this case?
It was down to bare steel when it went through plating. The silica beads I use are extremely fine grain; you could polish right from it in most cases. We plugged all the holes, so there was no issue of them filling with chemicals, but yes, it can be an issue. Plating anywhere near water is crazy expensive. One of the people I know that makes parts and complete penny farthing / other antique bikes has complained about the excruciating cost for plating on the East Coast. He said something along the lines of "getting a bolt plated costs the same as plating five complete bikes around here".
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Old 11-19-11, 02:57 PM
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You are saying then that the silica removed the original plate layer(s)? I have one fork with failed chrome, it should have been copper, nickel and chrome.
It appears to have had a flash of nickel then chrome, and not enough of either. Copper? not on that fork.

How did you plus the holes? Permanently or with some other temporary plug?
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Old 11-20-11, 06:12 AM
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One of the best resto posts I've seen in the forum, well written, beautifully photographed, and the bike speaks for itself. Thanks for sharing and for the effort you put into documenting it!
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Old 11-20-11, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by repechage
You are saying then that the silica removed the original plate layer(s)? I have one fork with failed chrome, it should have been copper, nickel and chrome.
It appears to have had a flash of nickel then chrome, and not enough of either. Copper? not on that fork.

How did you plus the holes? Permanently or with some other temporary plug?
Media blasting will take off plating, yes. Good plating doesn't come off easy, but it does. That's also where the acid bath comes in; muriatic / hydrochloric takes off plating (that's why you start in the acid, then blast, then acid again later on).

The plugs are little rubber guys. They range from small enough for vent holes to much larger than a BB lug. Good platers have plugs, because it's a very common thing. You plug anything not getting plated. You can tape up things like threads, but plugs work so much better, and leave a cleaner plate edge.
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Old 11-20-11, 10:45 AM
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hey what did it cost you to chrome the frame? ball park...
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Old 11-20-11, 11:25 AM
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awesome job. cool thread.
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Old 11-20-11, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mapleleafs-13
hey what did it cost you to chrome the frame? ball park...
I'm lucky in that aspect and get a greattttttt deal, but a typical show-quality plating on a bike like this is 200-400, give or take.
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Old 11-20-11, 03:00 PM
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very nice
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Old 11-21-11, 09:02 PM
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Great job. I noticed you worked in the Nassau blue on the fork crown. I think it all looks beautiful.
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Old 04-23-12, 01:55 PM
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One of the most beautiful bikes on the forum.
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Old 04-23-12, 04:19 PM
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That blocky bb shell in chrome is one of the single most satisfying frame components I've ever seen. I want to peel off the wrapper and eat it. Great work.
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Old 04-23-12, 06:19 PM
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It's beautiful.
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