Capecodder

Just run some WD-40/Liquid Wrench through it per the instructions above. I would not use any heavy or thick lube at this time.

WNG

Being built with a non-standard build can be a problem getting fitted to a bike. I'm also short leg and long torso. But I have more options at 5'10". I'm not entirely following you as to your set up. Are you flat footed at stops and still seated? Is this how each bike is adjusted? If so, then it's wrong, even though it's more confidence inspiring to reach the ground while seated. Maybe that's why I thought the bikes seem to vary. Proper saddle height is always based on a rider's seated position with legs straight when pedal is at its furthest away from rider. This is for pedaling efficiency, and one unseats oneself at stops. As bottom bracket heights can vary from frame to frame, one can't get properly fitted if the saddle height is set for feet-down dismounts.
If I misunderstood, then disregard.


As for the Bianchi, you should be straddling the top tube, if possible with both feet on the ground. If there's a little contact that's not a problem. With foot on drive-side pedal at its lowest position, lift yourself onto your saddle. Is your leg straight? Adjust the saddle until it is. Next, rotate the pedal until at 3 o'clock position. Your knee should be directly over the pedal. Adjust the saddle fore/aft until it is. Now you can focus on getting the proper stem extension. Rule of thumb for drop bar road bikes, the top of the handle bar should obscure your view of the front hub while you're riding in your desired hand/grip position. Your Bianchi's stem may be too short and causing the cramp/twitchyness. I personally think the bend of those handlebars look uncomfortable given how it positions the brake levers.

As for wrenching, your enthusiasm is praiseworthy, just don't take on more than you can chew. Best to focus on one bike first, get it 100% functional, then take what you learned to another bike. Like the mtb, get it right and it can serve as the 'go-to' bike, always ready. The tools to do basic stuff is a required investment. Usually they span a variety of bikes deemed C&V unlike the need for specific tools with modern bikes. Get at least: a spoke wrench, a chain breaker tool, a 13/15mm cone wrench, hex keys, 10-12" adjustable wrench, quality diagonal wire cutters, quality screwdrivers, a freewheel and/or cassette removal tool (here it depends on specific brands and models, you may start a collection), a chain whip. If you wish to tackle BB and cranks, then invest in these specific tools. If you shop wisely, you don't need to bankrupt yourself, and good tools last a lifetime and retain their value.

As for solvent/oiling....remove the rear wheel from the mtb. Determine if you have a freewheel or freehub/cassette combo. I prefer to remove these to do this task, but you may not have the removal tools. Sheldon Brown's site will help you visually determine which you have if you're not sure. If it's a freewheel, you can see the separation gap of the freewheel body. As you spin the cogs backwards, carefully run WD40 into this gap, the capillary action will draw it into the freewheel. It'll start to drip out the rear and it'll get messy, so be prepared. You'll know you've succeeded as it'll free up and sound louder. Now do the same with the lightweight oil until it runs out the rear, wipe up the excess, clean the rim surfaces.

If it's a freehub, assuming it's a Shimano, you will need to pop off a dust cap on most models to access the gap. Be careful not to break the cap if it's plastic (Uniglide freehub), or deform the stamped steel cap (Hyperglide freehub). Same procedure as for freewheel if you've gotten the cap off. Photos at Sheldon Brown's site of each type of freehub may be helpful.

rookgirl

Thanks!

The bikes are set up so I cannot put my foot down while on the saddle. Indeed, not a toe. I have almost full extension of my leg at the downstroke. I do unseat myself at stops and use the Sheldon Brown method for starting off, which is why the slipping is a real issue (my husband uses a scooter technique instead).

Tool wise, I'm fairly well set up now, with chain breaker, various sets of hex tools, crank puller etc. I just need a spoke wrench and freewheel tools (though I'm really not that keen to start on wheel stuff).

The Bianchi's stem is way too short - I see the hub and it obscures the brake. I am unsure of whether I should get a new stem or get a new bike

I'm goign to try the Liquid Wrench thing tomorrow while the kids are at daycare

anixi

I've had great luck with penetrating oil on old freewheels. They seems to free up just fine after a good dose of liquid wrench or WD-40.

rookgirl

Just an update - I did the Liquid Wrench thing and now it seems to be good! Thanks so much everyone! It worked fine on the test run around the block but the real test will be a ride to work!

Glennfordx4

Good to hear the MTB is going, I wouldn't use that Raleigh in the winter yuck either. I was going to suggest instead of getting rid of the Bianchi as a whole that you could move a lot of the parts over to the Nishiki and make a real nice rider out of that, the wheels,cranks,BB and derailleurs can be made to work with little trouble and you could install a set of stem or thumb shifters to handle the shifting then sell off what remains of the Bianchi.

rookgirl

Wow! Great Idea! I'll be back at some point to ask about this further!

Thanks everyone for the help!

rookgirl

Back again! I didn't want to start a new thread for my pathetic wrenching attempts, so here is my new problem.

I took your amazing advice and liquid wrenched the freewheel. That certainly did the trick and now the pawls are doing their thing...mostly. I went on my first cold ride yesterday and upon try to start up, it seemed as though the freewheel was iced up inside - seemingly the liquid wrench or whatever else had frozen. I backpedalled by hand for a minute and it loosened up fine and had no problems. What should I do to prevent this? I have some Finish Line Wet lubricant - should I put that in there? Shoudl it be flushed out somehow first?

Thanks!

ETA: there wasn't any water in there that I know of

wahoonc

Some of the formulations of Liquid Wrench are Low VOC and possibly could freeze up. Check the version you have and see what the primary component is. Ditto for the Finish Line Wet Lube too. See if you can find out what the minimum service temperature is. There may have been some water in there from condensation or even left over from the last go around. The pawls are small and it doesn't take much to gum them up.

Aaron

rookgirl

Thanks. I will check in the morning.

Supposing they are gummed up - what can I do? Blast some compressed air in there? What would you lube with?

Apparently the Wet Lube has no VOCs

Road Fan

I'm gonna guess there's some kind of setup or fitting issue with that bike. Light road bikes do feel lighter than say, 3 speeds, but most riders acclimate to them. Need some other info to try to sort it out with you.

rookgirl

Thanks. Yes, there are definite fitting problems. The TT is definitely too short for me, but I think maybe I need alonger and taller stem even if I do keep the drop bars on. I think I do need to acclimate, though i suppose I won't get a chance to do that until the spring!

rhm

Okay so I only read the first 30 or so replies. What I have to say has already been said (party by Charles W).

Pick one bike to make reliable and ride it until it falls apart. With proper maintenance that should be sometime in the next century. It should be the bike you like best. You should not have a bike that's too good to ride; if you like it, ride it. If you don't like to ride it, sell it. Sell it for $1000, $100, $10, I don't care. But if you don't like to ride it, sell it.

As for the bike to keep, all indicators are that it will be your Superbe. Get it going the way you want it; good lights, good brakes, reliable in all regards. And ride it. If it gets salty, wash the salt off. Apply oil to the chain, wax to the paint, air to the tires, and so on. If you can ride it into the ground, be proud of what you have done; but I don't think you can.

If it turns out you don't like the Superbe as much as you thought you did, sell it.

Road Fan

A VERY decent reason for protecting your wrists! What do you play? I hope you don't have a cello on your back commuting down to Orchestra Hall!

I don't play an instrument, but I do sing in a symphony chorus. Not a paid gig, however.

jimmuller 

Two quick points.

Re the freewheel, be aware that Liquid Wrench isn't meant to be a lubricant per se. Its prime purpose is to penetrate and free up rusted bolts. It may have enough non-volatile components to act as a lubricant after it dries, but it may not. In other words, it might just dry up and leave behind nothing but a film of whatever dirt was there before. Also be aware that WD-40 was designed to be a drying agent. The "WD" stands for Water Displacement. That might help if there is water in the freewheel. But like Liquid Wrench it isn't meant to be a lubricant. I'd consider lubing the freewheel with some other light oil, perhaps after treating it with Liquid Wrench or WD-40.

Re the Bianchi, that's a Brava, right? It should have screws in the rear dropouts to position the rear wheel. Check how far they are screwed in. If they are all the way in try backing them out so that you can re-position the wheel a little further back. It will lengthen the wheelbase and maybe make it less twitchy. Others may disagree with this advice but it's worth a try.

rookgirl

I play the viola, so yes, I do have an instrument on my back during my commute, but it's not a cello. Incidentally I did know of a double bass player who rode with his bass on a trailer festooned with xmas lights.



I did know about the non-lube function of the liquid wrench, however what I didn't know was what to do about it! I presumed that anything I put in there after the LW would be affected by the residual solvent. I'll just stick some in and try, I suppose!


The Bianchi is missing its model decal, so I have no idea what it is. Thanks for the advice about the dropout screw. I will definitely try that. It just feels as though the wheelbase is too short for me to be stable. Though it's probably more me, as it's my first ever road bike.


Thanks for this. Great advice. The real problem is that I love my bikes (don't we all) and they each have their qualities. It's like picking your favorite child! There's only one which I would get rid of right now (bike, not kid) and it's going to go to a friend, hopefully.

rhm

Pics or it didn't happen! I've never done that, but I can see myself doing it.

Yeah, I hear you. Great advice maybe, but you don't often catch me following it either. I have so many bikes I barely have the time to ride any of them and figure out if I don't like them. So they accumulate....

wahoonc

Works for me! My son played Double Bass in high school, it got hauled to more than one concert in a bicycle trailer, hadn't thought about using Christmas Lights. We did have a reflective vest wrapped around it though.

Aaron

Road Fan

Rookgirl,

Any intact Raleigh Superbe roadster is worth preserving, and it will be hard to replace if ruined. Not that there aren't more English 3-speeds around, but the Superbe was one of the ones at the top of the genre. I am bugged by the idea of riding it into the ground, though you didn't exactly say that.

But not preservation in the sense of putting it in a closet for the winter but in terms of tuning everything up as perfectly as possible, repairing any paint dings, and then waxing and sealing the entire exterior 'cep for the braking surfaces. Perhaps like one would do to use a fine string instrument - use it with proper precautions. Then it should be easily able to withstand a North American winter in which you have snow that actually allows pedalling. There is a winter riding forum here on BF, you could read more there about how to handle a heavy winter.

But I think shutting it up in a closet is more protection than is necessary.

Road Fan

Regarding the Bianchi, have you ever measured yourself to assess the sizing of that bike, to see if it is totally out of range for you?

I guess I don't know what you know, perhaps you have a good handle on what's wrong with that bike.

rookgirl

I don't know anything, really. All I know is that the largest diamond frame I can ride is a 48cm c-c. 50cm is too big, standover wise. Honestly, it's hard enough finding a decent frame that small, that I pretty much jumped on the first one I found that was in my price range. What measurements do I need other than that to assess TT.

I'm learning more and more, especially about 3 speeds, but with road bikes I am a moron and it's fine to treat me as such!