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Light Touring Caliper Brakes?

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Old 12-28-11, 10:24 PM
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Light Touring Caliper Brakes?

I posted this on the touring forum, but they are too sleepy for me tonight. I'm wondering what C&V thinks.

I’m going to try and build a vintage steel road bike that is capable of handling a pannier load of say 25 lbs. One of the issues that I will have to address is that this particular frame takes caliper brakes only. The frame had 27” wheels originally, but I plan on using 700’s. I don’t have the frame yet, so I can’t measure the distance the brakes will have to reach, but I suspect that a mid-reach caliper would work. My question is; what are some options for a strong caliper brake, either modern or vintage, that would be considered safe for touring applications?
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Old 12-28-11, 10:47 PM
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I don't see any reason why the Tektro R539 calipers wouldn't work. I have them on my Mercian KOM right now, installed them about a week ago. They are mid-reach, 47-57mm. They do hug my metal fenders pretty tight, but nothing that impedes operation. They come in nutted or recessed. I had the extra long reach R559 before and the R539 definitely feel stronger to me. Also, you can fit Kool stop pads into the stock Tektro cartridges!

VO has them on sale right now, 39.00 for a set. I think they are a screaming bargin.

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Last edited by mkeller234; 12-28-11 at 10:50 PM.
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Old 12-28-11, 10:53 PM
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^^^
Hmmm…Nice mkeller234, I’m putting them on the short list.
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Old 12-28-11, 11:00 PM
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The long reach R556 (55-73mm) are on ebay for $38.87 + shipping. Recessed only though. The nutted version is available from VO, but it will set you back $75.00 These much wider and longer, so there is a lot of clearance for fenders.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tektro-R556-...#ht_839wt_1165



I wish the R559 were as wide as these were:

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Old 12-28-11, 11:07 PM
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Unfortunately, only nutted will work.
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Old 12-28-11, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by rothenfield1
Unfortunately, only nutted will work.
drill, baby, drill.


Yes, I'm kidding, of course. Heck, I wouldn't even drill Sara oh, never mind.
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Old 12-28-11, 11:14 PM
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The extra long reach do come in nutted... but they cost twice as much from VO. At that point, why not use some old center pulls with nice pads? They seem to stop ok.
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Old 12-28-11, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mkeller234
At that point, why not use some old center pulls with nice pads? They seem to stop ok.
Indeed.
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Old 12-28-11, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mkeller234
The extra long reach do come in nutted... but they cost twice as much from VO. At that point, why not use some old center pulls with nice pads? They seem to stop ok.
I’m open to them; the frame that I hope to pick up was built as a 650B with Mafac center pulls. I’ve built some touring bikes and MTBs, but they’ve always had brake bosses for cantis and V-brakes of course. I’m trying to figure out if there are some caliper brakes that are more applicable, i.e. more stopping power, then others. Maybe dual pivot? Perhaps a caliper is a caliper?
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Old 12-29-11, 12:01 AM
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This is what the seller has on it now. Are there any advantages to an old center pull versus a caliper? (That seems like an extremely naïve question, even from me.)
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Old 12-29-11, 12:47 AM
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are you just buying the frame? The brakes that are on it are pretty good
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Old 12-29-11, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
are you just buying the frame? The brakes that are on it are pretty good
Yes, what makes them good?
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Old 12-29-11, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by rothenfield1
Yes, what makes them good?
New Gran Compe center pull brakes have bearings in the pivot points, are super nice and just plain gorgeous. They're uber adjustable, too.

Edit: Maybe they're not Gran Compes. Those look longer than 55mm reach to me and have a different straddle cable design. I'm digging them...whatever they are. Haha.

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Old 12-29-11, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rothenfield1
Yes, what makes them good?
My CV rule-o-thumb is to first try the part before replacing, but this should serve as good research. I almost dumped an entire Suntour drive chain, before realizing how good (and cool) it was. Of course it needs to be perfect for your requirements, both mechanically and aesthetically. I also get a kick out of investing as little as possible, though not very successfully.
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Old 12-29-11, 05:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mkeller234
The extra long reach do come in nutted... but they cost twice as much from VO. At that point, why not use some old center pulls with nice pads? They seem to stop ok.
Don't discount vintage center pulls a set of old Dia compe long reach center pulls with good pads set up properly will brake better than most long reach calibers and are just as dependable.
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Old 12-29-11, 09:36 AM
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"Edit: Maybe they're not Gran Compes. Those look longer than 55mm reach to me and have a different straddle cable design. I'm digging them...whatever they are. Haha."


I thought those were Gran Compes as well. They look identical to what came stock on my early Univega Specialissima (before they went cantilever.) They are beautiful, and even with the original pads I still have no problem locking up a wheel in a panic stop. Those have Kool Stop salmons, so I'd say you'd be good to go.
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Old 12-29-11, 09:56 AM
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This is similar to a project I did on my '83 Trek 620. I used the Tektro R539 nutted brakes from VO with 700c wheels. I have fenders and its a bit tight but there is no rubbing. The brakes work well, but I haven't loaded up the bike with a large load (just groceries, etc).
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Old 12-29-11, 10:19 AM
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THat bikes looks like a solid setup. The clamp on cable adjusters look interesting!
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Old 12-29-11, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by rhm
drill, baby, drill.


Yes, I'm kidding, of course. Heck, I wouldn't even drill Sara oh, never mind.
An option that may or may not be acceptable to you, but worked perfectly for me, is to drill the rear hole in the fork crown for a recessed bolt. Then use the front caliper on the rear, nutted, and get one of those extra-long recessed nuts - the kind they sell for carbon forks - to mount the rear caliper on the front. I can't claim credit for this - it's on Sheldon's site somewhere.

If you do this, don't forget to switch the pads around the right way first!
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Old 12-29-11, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by rothenfield1
This is what the seller has on it now. Are there any advantages to an old center pull versus a caliper? (That seems like an extremely naïve question, even from me.)
Oh, my.

Those are some of the nicest centerpull brakes made. I don't think you'll find any advantage in using dual-pivot calipers. But if you want to sell those centerpulls, let me know...
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Old 12-29-11, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
Oh, my.

Those are some of the nicest centerpull brakes made. I don't think you'll find any advantage in using dual-pivot calipers. But if you want to sell those centerpulls, let me know...
I agree 100%! But, he is just getting the bare frame/fork... no brakes included.
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Old 12-29-11, 04:03 PM
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What brakes are those?
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Old 12-29-11, 06:39 PM
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I agree, what are those brakes shown in the picture?

I have built an '83 Schwinn World Tourist as a commuter and it is seriously lacking in braking power. Therefore, I am mightily interested in what wisdom this thread has to impart. I was considering the Tektro 539's or 559's but I am now wondering if they would really offer any improvement over the existing brakes.
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Old 12-29-11, 06:58 PM
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I have 7 bikes right now with Canti's, V's High end Diacompe (Record knock offs) and by far the best stoping is the dual pivot 105's on my R300. Thats the only bike that I ever thought I was braking so hard to avoid getting hit and I was genuinely afraid I was going to go over the bars.
I have messed with several of the other bikes trying to get better brakes including better housing and cables, changing out levers, several different pads messing with straddle cable lengths you name it and none come close.
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Old 12-29-11, 07:09 PM
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^^^
I've used the 105 dual pivots as well, and agree with you that they are pretty strong. However, I believe they only came in short reach and therefore wouldn't work.

I'm trying to find out from the seller what brakes those are and if he is willing to sell them.
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