Need quick advice on changing out a stem!
 

Hi all:

I need some quick help, my limited skills have already been exceeded...

When I recently got my '81 Motobecane Grand Jubilee, the original SR stem had been changed out for a short-reach SR (50-60mm?) that's just too short for me. I found an SR stem on Ebay that's the right quill size, 80mm and similar to original equipment for this bike. The problem I'm having is, how do I get the handlebars out of one stem and into another?

Let me explain: the Grand Jubilee still has the original "leather-look" handlebar sleeves, which fit tight as a glove on both sides and incorporate brake hoods. It's in very good condition. I don't have any faith I can get this stuff off without ripping it to shreds, and I'd like to keep it. The only way I can think of is to spread the clamp on the old stem enough to slip the handlebars out that way, and do the same for the "new" stem. But I'm hesitant to proceed. Can the clamp on an alloy stem flex that much (say 1/2 - 3/4") without cracking?

Thanks for any help you can give me. If there's nothing else for it, I suppose I can switch to handlebar wraps and new brake hoods, but I really don't want to!

Roy

You can't preserve that plastic, faux leather covering and switch stems. It has to be removed to remove the handlebar from the stem. Alternatively you can get a different handlebar and brake levers to use with your new stem and set the other combo (bar/stem/wrap/levers) to the side.

No, you can't spread the clamp on an alloy stem of that type by the amount you are talking about. It will break.

You will probably need to remove the bar wrapping, or grips, or whatever is installed.

Not being a wiseguy, but posting pictures usually helps.

As others have mentioned, you cannot do this. The first time I ran into this problem, I was bummed out. Now I just accept that some things are and will stay that way. And don't feel too bad.

This Raleigh Competition actually has holes and bosses fixed to the handlebars, preventing any repositioning of the levers, and making it difficult to remove the bars because of the raised boss...

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=233231 http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=233232

Those have to be riveted in - never seen anything of the kind, and I'd expect that only on something such as a constructeur bike - and if so, I'd also expect a filleted tig weld.

-Kurt

I wondered about this question as well as I've got a Moto with the quasi-leather wrap / hoods combo . Good to know I shouldn't mess with it too much or plan on replacing the whole cockpit.

For what it's worth, here are a couple of pics:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=233259http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=233260

Thanks for the quick replies; bummer it can't be done, but I'm glad I asked before I did something stupid. I did find suggestions online (here and elsewhere) for removing the sleeves, but after a few attempts I had to admit defeat; these sleeves have been on for thirty years and at this point are pretty much fused in place. I can't imagine how the original owner got this short stem on in the first place; could it have been a factory-installed option? Anyway...

I think at this point I'll look for another set of bars and put these up on the 'Bay; I actually like the sleeves, think they're kind of vintage-cool, but the short stem is killing my back when I ride. Maybe some other Moto owner (with shorter arms than me) will be tickled to have them.

Actually if the bike still has the original Moto/Hitchinson bar wrap and hoods intact the short stem is more than likely original for that bike. You basically have to choose between keeping the cool original bar wrap setup or cutting it off to put the longer stem on and retaping the bars.

I would never consider cutting that cast rubber sleeve off, even though it's not associated with high-end Motobecanes.

There are too many fellows who would be delighted to run that bar and stem combo on their own bike, and would trade you a replacement set (minus the bar wrap) with a stem to suit your needs. Everybody benefits if you do the trade.

-Kurt

+1 on that. I have to admit that I like the look and the feel, however; like some hood material, the rubber compound can fail and become gooey. That's when you have to cut the sleeve off, although I never had done so.

Yeah, I wondered about that. The guy I bought it from said it was his father-in-law's bike, and that the PO had the short-reach stem installed. It's always possible he traded for bars from a smaller Motobecane?!? Or, possibly, the wraps were just easier to take off thirty years ago when they were new & fresh? I dunno.

Definitely, though, the wraps are safe; I'll buy another handlebar, and either keep this one for a future project or sell it.

So, any suggestions for a good early-80s vintage alloy bar?

Thanks again, all...

Most likely. One of the local shops does parts swap cannibalization on current bikes; no reason why it shouldn't have been the case 30 years ago.

-Kurt

From RandyJawa...

Raleigh Competition actually has holes and bosses fixed to the handlebars, preventing any repositioning of the levers, and making it difficult to remove the bars because of the raised boss...

I had the exact bar set-up on my Carlton Criterium. I took the bars off and put on a Nitto Moustache Bar. I love the way it rides and the reach is perfect for me since I swapped out the original stem for a tall one.

The brake levers had no clamps, they just screwed into the round sleeves that were inserted into the bar. The only ones I've seen so far.

^This^

That set-up is just too unusual to destroy. If you don't want it, remove the entire thing as a unit and sell, or trade for what you want.

Guys & gals, there was a thread about this a couple of years ago. I believe it even concerned a Moto. By all means the 1 piece wrap is removable and reusable. The wrap on my 78 GJ has been off and back on 4 times already and is still perfect except for external scrapes. My bars have the riveted pylons for the brake levers but they are not a major problem. I wrote up my method in the other thread; I'll dig it up and post a link but meanwhile don't go cutting any wrap that you'd rather preserve. :eek:

Yes, let's not be hasty! I was just looking at mine. The levers are regular clamp-ons. There's no reason the whole assembly couldn't just slide off if the lever clamp were loosened and friction overcome.

I say make a nice hot, soapy bath bot the bar-stem combo and let one side soak for a good long while to soften the (what is it? plastic? rubber?). Then see if you can't deliberately squirt some oil or liquid soap between the cover and the bar at the end closest to the stem, then start twisting it gently, getting the soap or oil to work its way down the length of the bar. Patience, grasshopper! I bet you can get to slide off with no damage to any parts.

Good luck!

Edit: I see there were different types of bars. Mine seem to have the regular clamp--I can work the base of the lever from side to side just by loosening the allen bolt a little bit, so I think those must be clamp-ons under there.

Or.....

Why not get one of the "clam-shell" quill stems that appeared towards the end of the quill stem era. I'm pretty sure both 3TTT and Modelo had models that pivoted open. All you would have to do is cut off the SR stem.

http://www.bike-vintage.com/1056-111...ycle-100mm.jpg

Here's a link: http://www.bike-vintage.com/stem/105...cle-100mm.html

Good suggestion, but unfortunately the Moto requires a French-style 22.0 quill, not sure any of those pivot-style jobs come in that size.

That might work for getting the bars on the new stem, but he still has to get them off the old stem first.

There is another alternative, though not period correct. You can dremel or break the existing stem clamp, then use a new quill stem with a removable faceplate. They are hard to find but out there, at least Salsa, Profile, ITM and 3TTT made them.

EDIT: I see this is already suggested. Perhaps it won't work for a 22.0 fork.

I tried but can't find the old thread on a search. I got the wrap off with no great difficulty by squirting WD-40 underneath the edge and working it down inside by massaging from the outside. Bit by bit you can slide the wrap back and work more WD-40 underneath. You can also get WD-40 in from the brake cutouts.
To reinstall, remove all the WD-40 from the bars & wrap with solvent or detergent solution. Use windex to lubricate the wrap to reinstall it. The windex will evaporate completely over time, and the wrap will grip the bars like new.