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Old 02-01-12, 11:23 PM   #1
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How do I handle a Raleigh Full Chaincase?


I just received a 1953 Raleigh Sports with a full chain case.

I'm quite new with this stuff.

I'd like to know as much as I can about the chain case. This would include its access ports, what each one is for, how to remove the chain case if I get a flat tire - how I can disassemble the case, oiling the chain, removing the chain, etc.

I've been looking for a post that specifically deals with all of these things and couldn't find anything.

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Old 02-02-12, 12:09 AM   #2
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On rides: always carry a full complement of tools and plan an extra hour in case you have any drive train or rear wheel problems.

In case of said problems, tools or no, people who are not competent with basic mechanical technology should always carry a cell phone, GPS, flare gun, parachute, and syringe full of adrenalin.

Oiling is easy and can be done through the back hatch at the rear cog or at the front by the crank arm door.

For any of these tasks, a (two-legged) center stand or a swing-down rear stand is a godsend.

If you figure out how to manage the chain should you have to disconnect it, please let me know. This is absolutely required if you have to remove the rear wheel, and I have spent many otherwise fulfilling hours of my life trying to reconnect a chain in this case.

Having a bike like this is a joy until something goes really wrong. It helps you build problem solving skills and leg-bones-connected-to-the-knee-bone kind of thinking. And you learn to patch tubes without removing the wheel.

Post pics of your bike!!
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Old 02-02-12, 03:26 AM   #3
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I found that a think piece of very flexable wire put through the ends of the chain after removing the link prevents losing the chain ends.

Thankfully, once the chain is lubricated it should not require it again for many years.
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Old 02-02-12, 05:30 AM   #4
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Removing the wheel off a chaincase-equipped DL-1:

Unbolt fender stays, then unbolt fender mount at chainstay bridge. For simplicity's sake, unbolt seat stays entirely and pull the fender and seatstays out as a single unit (no need to go grabbing for the bolt under the seatstay bridge when it's easier to pull the whole thing off).

Remove the slide-on cog protectors on the left side of the chainstay (if they're still present - usually they'd get caught in the spokes and thrown to the wind), then pull the back cover off the chaincase.

Spin chain until you find master link, split master link and thread a spoke through each end of the chain so it doesn't fall into the chaincase. Twine will also suffice. Disconnect Sturmey hub cable, loosen axle nuts, pull wheel.

Reverse process to re-install.
Directions from Kurt who runs The Headbadge...he leaves out the part about cussing...A LOT.

I have been fortunate and not had to do anything on my DL-1 on the side of the road. It would also behoove you to learn how to repair a flat without removing the wheel from the bike. I did that on one ride on my Raleigh Superbe and the guys I was riding with were amazed, they have never seen that done before, but what do you expect from people that throw away inner tubes and use CO2 cartridges...

Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(

ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.

"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.

"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"
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