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Schwinn Varisty

Old 02-18-12, 05:35 PM
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JBanez12
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Schwinn Varisty

I'm pretty sure this question is asked alot but here I go. I need a 3-piece crankset that would fit a 1-piece crank bottom bracket with the American-to-Euro adapter. One important thing is that I has to have a 42mm chainline and the cranks should be 165mm. So can anyone please help me find a 3-piece crank and 68mm x ___mm bottom bracket?
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Old 02-18-12, 08:00 PM
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That's the most well researched Schwinn Varsity bottom bracket inquiry I've ever heard.
I wish I knew the answer.
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Old 02-18-12, 08:03 PM
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So is seems like you already know what you need. Are you just asking us to do the research and leg work for you? There are many places to find 68 MM bottom brackets and 165 MM cranks.
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Old 02-18-12, 09:30 PM
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Regular perusers of the Singlespeed/Fixed Gear forum will recognize instantly the OP is converting a VARSITY (not varisty) to SS/FG. 165mm cranks for avoiding pedal strikes.

Try the 103mm bottom brackets: https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/botto...s.html#trackbb

I like the Sugino cranksets myself. https://sheldonbrown.com/harris/cranks/130-single.html The Origin8 are cheaper, and still nice to use.


Please don't lose sleep if your calculated chainline is off by a mm or two. It matters not one whit. (a whit is just a very small thing. inconsequential, really)

Good luck. And post pics back here when your project is finished.

If the old one piece Ashtabula crank is dead, then I'd go for the conversion. But it may just need some new bearings and a good cleaning. Nothing wrong with the Ashtabula except they are heavy. They are very strong and idiot-proof. Very easy to service. Harris cyclery sells new ones, too.
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Old 02-18-12, 10:10 PM
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There's a really good database at the bottom of this page and a good tutorial on how to do the calculation, too;
https://mountainbikers.hubsystems.com...s/chapter9.pdf
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Old 02-19-12, 10:37 PM
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So do I need a 103mm spindle or 107mm spindle? And I forgot to say that it is an '85 Schwinn Deluxe Varsity.
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Old 02-20-12, 07:48 AM
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You better check the year as Schwinn quit making Varsitys in 1982 when the chicago plant closed. Roger
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Old 02-20-12, 10:53 AM
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While the electro-forged Varsity (and Continental) last appeared in the '82 lightweight catalog, they continued on in the "Family Bicycles" catalogs in 1983-'85. Here's a link to an '85 catalog for sale: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Schwinn-1985...-/360407520876

For '83 the Varsity was only available in 17", 20" and 22" sizes in both standard and "Deluxe" (Shimano FF system) variations, while the standard Continental was available in 22" through 28"(!) sizes. In '84 the monster 28" frame Continental was dropped, while the Varsity became available in a 24" frame again but only in "Deluxe" models with the Shimano FF system now combined with a Positron rear derailleur. In '85 the Continental was gone, however the Varsity continued on in only the smaller 20" and 22" sizes.

While 1985 was indeed the last of the electro-forged Varsity, the Varsity name continued on for one more year on a 1986 lugged frame model.

Knowing about the Chicago plant closing in '82, I have wondered how Schwinn continued to produce electro-forged frames all the way through '85. Did they move the EF equipment to Greenville, or were they produced by Murray in Nashville as alluded to here?

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Old 02-20-12, 06:11 PM
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Sorry for my wrong identifications. It's a '79 Schwinn Deluxe Varsity, Roger.
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Old 02-20-12, 06:32 PM
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The bottom bracket that you need is dependent on the crank that you choose.
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Old 02-21-12, 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DiegoFrogs View Post
The bottom bracket that you need is dependent on the crank that you choose.
Right. The relationship between the taper and the actual chainring position will differ for different cranks.
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Old 02-21-12, 11:23 AM
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I agree with the last two posters.

I did this for a Super Sport a year or so ago. Vintage crank sets and current sets (I'm thinking 2 ring sets) seem to have a very different effective offset. When viewed from behind the newer sets seem to have more offset (left on the bike) of the start of the square tapered hole (I may have this backwards). You really need to try a bottom bracket set to confirm the length is right.

Your best bet is to do this in two steps. Strip down the frame and purchase and install the adapter set (the plates that reduce the hole size to accept a standard threaded BB set. For my Super Sport this took a little light grinding inside the BB shell to clear the 3 bolts. If you have the crank you want to use, then take it in to your friendly local bike dealer and see if he will let you try a BB of the length you think you need. Ask around. When I did this last the first dealer wanted to sell me the BB and let me return it if it didn't work. The second was happy to dry fit a couple until we got the right length. In the end it should only take 2 tries anyhow. (Choose the second length with a difference equal to the error of the first one.)

Just dry fit a BB on and then drop the crank onto the post and see what the chainline looks like. Note that bolting the crank on tight will probably pull the line in by a mm or 2. With a triple you want the middle chainwheel about on the center of the rear cluster. More importantly you want the right clearance between the inner chainwheel and the frame (lower stay). I would tend to use the shortest spindle that just cleared the small chainwheel, especially with a triple.

Good Luck,
David S.
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Old 02-21-12, 04:49 PM
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Thanks. What was your chainline and bottom bracket size though? I want to start off with your dimensions so that I could save money.
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