puhahaha

My mom's friend left a bike to me, which belonged to one of her sons. As I am a complete newbie, I have no sense of how much this bike is worth for anything, might be just an old bike, I don't know. When went out for a test ride, I found the absence of a breaking bar on the top handle kind of annoying and dangerous in some situations, but what's more annoying was that when I change the gear, it doesn't stay. For whatever wrong reason, it automatically shifts back to the previous gear. Basically with this bike I can only use one gear combination, which makes this completely useless. I am pretty sure this hasn't been that way for the whole time, maybe the bike was sitting in the garage for too long.. Will going to a bike shop fix this problem? Thanks and any input is appreciated.

lusterwand

try tightening the shift levers at the pivot , good luck!

swifferman

He said he is a complete newbie. I have a feeling you don't know how to shift with those types of levers properly. Maybe a more experienced member can give you some tips on how to use those types of levers.

puhahaha

'I am a newbie.. I am a newbie... I am newbie....' It's echoing in my head!! Just kidding.. Really thanks for the input so far.

I've seen a few bikes whose shifting levers look exactly like the ones in the third and fourth picture, sticking at the end of the handle bar making whatever angle. If my memory serves, I should be able to pull or push the levers, and the levers should stay where they are after they are changed the position. But for some odd reason for example when I pulled the right lever all the way to the end, making a 180 degree angle with the handle bar, it starts changing gears all the way and then falls back to the previous gear all the way back, with the lever switching back to the 90 degree angle.

TheOtherGuy

Looks like a pretty decent touring bike to me. Hard to place a value on it... but I'd guess around $100 or so to the right person. It really depends on what the frame's made of, and the components on it. Looks like nice forged drop-outs with two sets of eyelets for both fenders and a rack.

As lusterwand said, try tightening up the shifters. I can't help you with that, but they look like Suntour "bar-cons", and they were very popular. I'm sure someone on here knows just how to tweak 'em. If it fits you, give it a good cleaning, and ride it around some... You might also want to post your pictures in the touring section, if you haven't yet. I'm sure some more experienced cycle tourists can tell you more about it.

USAZorro

I have owned 4 bike with bar-cons, and what it sounds like is that the derailleur cables are not adequately tensioned. To tension them, first put the levers in the full "down" position. Then loosen the nut that holds the cable at the end of the derailleur (where the wire sticks out). Next, turn that little nut that's on the screw near the point where the derailleur cable sheathing meets your derailleur. You want it to be nearly as close to he sheathing as it will go. Then, pull the wire end of the cable so that it is as snug as you can get it, and then tighten the nut (where the wire sticks out) very securely. You also want to have the bolts in the levers secure enough so that they won't slip. You should feel a little bit of resistance when you move them.

If this does not completely solve the shifting problem, you may need to adjust the stop screws on the derailleurs, or if you can't quite get to the top sprocket on the rear, turn the nut by the sheathing a couple turns, so that it is a bit farther from the sheathing. The will add a little more tension to the cable.

If you are still having problems, there is something else wrong with the derailleur. Either have a friend that knows about them look at it, or take it to a bike shop.

Good luck,

Z

USAZorro

I just re-read your post. Disregard my other post. That would work if you can't get it to shift up to the larger sprockets. If I am getting it straight, you can actually shift to the large sprocket on the back, but the bike auto-shifts back down to the small one. If that is what's happening, what the others have suggested - simply tightening the large screw in the pivot - should fix the problem. You might need two screwdrivers to do it.

don d.

The shift levers in the ends of the handlebars are called handle(bar) end (con)trol(s), ergo barcons. There is a screw that goes through the shifter lever body which the shift lever pivots on. This screw is used to set the tension on the lever. Tightening it with a flat head screw driver will increase the tension on the shift lever and will prevent the derailleur from moving from the position you set the lever to. Tighten it just enough to get adequate tension to control the derailleur and maintain smooth lever operation.

That bike was a fairly good quality bike in it's time. Should be all cromoly(high quality steel) frame and possibly fork. Judging from the fine photo you have posted of the rear freewheel, there is little wear on the bike; it looks like it's virtually new.

The size is suited to someone ~5'2" to 5'6" tall. If it fits you, it could serve you well.

T-Mar

I conur with tightening the pivot bolt. For minor clarification, you will notice that on the left hand side of the lever (as viewed when seating astride the saddle) there is a hole in the centre of the bolt slot. This is the locknut and it may have to be loosened 1/4 turn before the bolt head on the opposite side can be tightened. Once the bolt has been tightened, hold it stationary with a screwdriver and tighten the locknut.

The procedure will require trail and error to get the sufficient tightness to allow the lever to move freely, but not be overridden by the tension on the derailleur's spring, which is what is making the derailleur always shift into the smallest cog. If the bolt is tightened too much, the lever will be difficult to move. I suggest you proceed with tightening the bolt by 1/8 turn and test the shifting after each tightening. Do not be alarmed if it takes several tries to the proper bolt setting that permits things work properly. Be patient and you will get it right. Good luck! You're taking your first steps to becoming a master mechanic.

For your information and TheOther Guy, the Takara Challenge was an early 1980s economy touring bicycle. The frame was typically straight gauge CrMo with high tensile stays and forks. The early 1990s Shimano 200GS rear derailleur is an obvious replacement, with the original typically being a SunTour MounTech. From what I can see, the rest of the bicycle appears to be original. The nicest feature of the bicycle are the hubs, which should be maintenance free, SunTour sealed (catridge bearing) versions. It had a nice, but basic, assortment of fittings for fenders, racks and water bottles. Howver it lacks the amenities of top line touring frames of the era, like spare spoke holders and internal wiring for lighting systems. Original retail for the bicycle was around $300 US, depending on the year. It should make a nice, general prupose bicycle.

puhahaha

Wow, I love you guys.. It was a matter of tightening the bolt clockwise once. Thanks for the highly informative and illustratively instructed helps. Hope you all meet a happy new year!

swifferman

Hooray for success!