Hard as a rock leather
 

Hey my vintage retro-bike geek buddies. Im not a huge leather seat fan but would like to be able to put this on one of my bicycles. This thing is hard as a rock. Its been in a barn for years. It doenst even flex at all.

The brand is Wrights. Never heard of it.

What can I do to recondition it?

I've heard of wrights, but no idea how old it might be. The official wisdom on leather saddles is to just slather on the Brooks Proofhide (or something similar) and ride it. Then ride it some more. and some more

I like to use some neatsfoot oil myself. I just wet a rag and rub a modest amount into the surface. I think it helps speed break in a bit. I don't drown it, though. Others will say it's not a good idea. The modest amount I use hasn't hurt a saddle yet. I've been riding the same saddle for 12 years now.

Does your saddle seem to be dried out, or just not broken in? That might make a big difference in what you need to do.

I softened and treated my brooks with a saturation like absorption of the waxes
in proofide at their melting point, about 100F.. in the oven upside down..

if its real dry the leather tears like thick paper ..

Your saddle looks nice considering. Leather is a natural material tends to dry out over the years. That is why it is a good idea to treat it. I would use Brooks Proofide on both sides, several times over a period of days to let the leather absorb it. Neatsfoot oil is not recommended, neither is water.

Ill need to get some. This was in a barn attached to a barn find Ochsner bicycle that i purchased. Its as hard and as dry as i have ever seen a leather saddle. I never heard of Wright saddles.. Ive been involved in cycling a long time and never came across one.

I have a Wrights that was hard as rock also. I heated some proofhide and soaked it into the leather several times.
It came back a little, but I think once leather dries out over a long time, it cracks rather than stretches.

Proofide it and ride it.


By the way, a leather saddle can feel very stiff but still be comfy.

The thicker and older the harder they are. You are correct, at this stage it won't stretch and should not have too. I have a few old Brooks and Ideale saddle that are hard as rocks to the touch but they are comfy. I proofide them regularly to keep them going.

I sat on this one and had to run to the emergency center . It hurt

Perhaps it is the fit, not compatible with your anatomy, rather than the hardness.

That appears to be a Wright's Swallow - Made by Brooks.
Brooks acquired Wrights in the early 60's AFAIK, - and there is nothing lacking in their quality.

A little Proofide and lots of saddle time to follow might break it for you and make it your favorite saddle.

I hope it breaks in for the OP. However, not all Brooks are comfortable to everyone. I don't care for the Swift or the B.17 Narrow. I do like the Professional and B.17 Standard/Special. Different shapes for different butts.

Thanks..The brooks on my World Voyageur is excellent. I love it.

Proofhide, or Bookbinder's Leather Dressing . I also once used a combination of tallow, paraffin, and carnuba wax on an old ADGA saddle and it lasted for years . But I recommend the recommended products because they work better , and will be pretty easy to find in your area . I'm downstate , so not so much so .

I read that for a really dry saddle, you wrap it in a damp (not soaking wet towel) heat it in an oven for about a 1/2 hour on the lowest setting about 120 degrees. Then take it from the oven and apply your first dose (and heaviest dose) of proofide. The idea is thatt the steam penetrates and helps, temporarily, hydrate the old leather and allows for deeper penetration of the proofide. When the moisture evaporates, it is replaced by the proofide. Another treatment or two with proofide and that would be it.

That's an interesting idea. never heard of it. Definitely worth a try!

I rehabbed an old Wrights by putting it in a big ziplock bag and pouring in about a quart of Lexol--a water-based emulsion used for treating leather--and let it soak overnight before wiping it off and pouring the unabsorbed Lexol back into the bottle for re-use. It brought the completely petrified saddle back to life--that was a couple of years ago and it's still in great shape. You can buy Lexol at any shop that carries quality leather goods.
Ask a dozen people and you'll get as many different answers, but that approach was so completely successful for me I that can't imagine trying anything else.
JV

Since this saddle drove you to the ER, you need to send it to me for special rehab and time in the Spa. Obviously it is a wayward saddle (banished to a barn for decades) and it needs to be rescued. I will send my best non-traditional saddle in exchange. It might need years of therapy before it is ready for you again, so don't expect its return anytime soon.

Of all the treatments mentioned above, I would avoid all that involve heat. Heat is not good for leather, especially old leather. What you need to do, somehow, is to get some elasticity into the 50-year old leather fibers. Neatsfoot oil might do it (it will take a lot of it); the stuff Jon recommends might do it; I don't know. Your success will depend on the actual condition of the leather, which is very difficult to assess in person, and probably impossible from photos.

Your saddle is a Wrights W3SW ("swallow") which was the Wrights version of the Brooks Swallow. I understand Brooks bought out Wrights at some point, but that's not to say Brooks made the Wrights saddles. Same ownership, but not necessarily the same factory. The frame is the same stamping as a Brooks narrow frame, but isn't as well chromed (if at all) and there are no eyelets in the bag loops at the back. And the Brooks nose piece was chromed, whereas Wrights was black. You may find a date stamped under the cantle plate; I have a similar saddle dated 63, and another dated 73.

I would suggest you accept Bob's offer; he collects neat old saddles. If you do try to rejuvenate the leather, I wish you the best of luck. If you fail, and it breaks (which I consider rather likely) I'd be happy to take the remains off your hands.

I had a Wright's saddle on a Raleigh I use to own, though I don't know if it was original to the bike or not.

As far as your saddle, try using some Mink Oil (comes in a can like shoe polish) on it. Rub it in good...let it sit...and repeat for a few days. This will help a lot, but remember to wipe off after each application. Then, a trip to the Auto store for good leather conditioner and you should be a lot better off than you would have ever thought.

Fred

This is why i love this forum! so many great suggestions given freely. Pastor bob. If I cant get any of these to work we can spend it to your "spa" for rehab.

Wrights are good seats. Personally, I'd stick to the Proofhide and no other offbeat tricks, though I admit back in the day we used motor oil...

This is the best stuff I have ever used to recondition dried leather. I used it to bring back to life the leather shift boot and seats on my '85 Vette.

It is specifically designed to restore dried leather.

http://www.farnamhorse.com/product.p...133&key=300002

Lexol is a good product and readily available at most auto stores. It was first recommended to me by the owner of a Tandy's store. With any of these treatments I'd suggest wearing dark pants for awhile!

I agree that Lexol makes great stuff, but the Farnams is better for this and actually is non greasy and won't rub off. Zero issues putting it on the Vette seats. No rub off whatsoever.