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A "Show Your MARUISHI Here!" thread- why not?

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A "Show Your MARUISHI Here!" thread- why not?

Old 05-05-17, 07:46 AM
  #76  
mountaindave 
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Originally Posted by LittleGinseng View Post
Maruishi Professional

LOVE those 80's fade paint jobs. So nice!
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Old 05-05-17, 07:54 AM
  #77  
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This early '80s Maruishi Road Ace 7 was the first road bike frame that I ever owned, gifted to me by my 6th grade teacher after we reconnected a decade ago. He was a retailer for Maruishi and sold them out of his barn out in the countryside here in the San Joaquin Valley, and this frame returned to him after a season when a fellow wanted an upgrade. It sat hanging from the rafters of his barn until I came along, eager to start riding. The wheels, crank set, and a few other components were with the frame, and he also had some NOS bits to throw into the mix. I collected the rest of a Shimano 600 group set (not perfectly matched) and had it built up at a LBS.

I'm not sure if it was simply because the bike was a bit small for me (57x57) or if there was something weird about the wheels, or what... But I actually did not like riding this bicycle. It felt like a chore compared to some other vintage bikes I'd ridden by the time I had it put together, and it mostly sat around after it was completed. I sold it to a LBS owner last year for a couple hundred bucks fast cash in order to help fund a trip to Russia, where I met my fiancee. So, in the end, it turned out being useful. T'was a rather pretty bike!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/456653...57671969915576

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Old 05-05-17, 08:19 AM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Kilroy1988 View Post
This early '80s Maruishi Road Ace 7 was the first road bike frame that I ever owned, gifted to me by my 6th grade teacher after we reconnected a decade ago. He was a retailer for Maruishi and sold them out of his barn out in the countryside here in the San Joaquin Valley, and this frame returned to him after a season when a fellow wanted an upgrade. It sat hanging from the rafters of his barn until I came along, eager to start riding. The wheels, crank set, and a few other components were with the frame, and he also had some NOS bits to throw into the mix. I collected the rest of a Shimano 600 group set (not perfectly matched) and had it built up at a LBS.

I'm not sure if it was simply because the bike was a bit small for me (57x57) or if there was something weird about the wheels, or what... But I actually did not like riding this bicycle. It felt like a chore compared to some other vintage bikes I'd ridden by the time I had it put together, and it mostly sat around after it was completed. I sold it to a LBS owner last year for a couple hundred bucks fast cash in order to help fund a trip to Russia, where I met my fiancee. So, in the end, it turned out being useful. T'was a rather pretty bike!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/456653...57671969915576

What a nice bike. That red really pops! Too bad you sold, some just don't fit like a glove.
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Old 05-09-17, 08:43 PM
  #79  
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Old 01-19-18, 04:59 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by auchencrow View Post
It's a TA18 Tour Ace. (The only one that came stock with a rack.)
I bought my Royal Blue TA18 in 1985 and assembled it myself. The rack that came with it didn't fit, so it was immediately replaced, and has since been replaced again. I still have the bike, though the only original components remaining are:
  • frame
  • crankset
  • front derailleur
  • front hub
  • handlebars
  • headset
It was converted to 700C wheels about 2003.

My best guess is there's probably about 60,000 kilometers on the bike. It hasn't seen much use the last 2-3 years, but the prospects for riding this year are certainly looking much better. I'm looking forward to getting back in the saddle more.
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Old 08-31-19, 08:09 AM
  #81  
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Hello, I am very much an amateur. I haven't owned a bike in 20 years but a friend is trying to get me into riding. I am looking for a vintage hybrid/mountain bike to convert to a drop bar gravel bike.

I found a "1987 Maruishi City Bike" that has CT-12 on the frame. I can't find any information on it, but it looks similar to post 50 above. Unfortunately I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't upload an image. It looks really clean.

The seller is asking for $130, but without being able to find anything on it online, I am not really sure what it is worth. Thoughts?
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Old 09-01-19, 08:08 PM
  #82  
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And just to keep this going- this is the TA18 Tourace previously owned by

auchencrow (quoted above). Picked this up from him just last week.
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Old 09-01-19, 08:26 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Vordak View Post
Hello, I am very much an amateur. I haven't owned a bike in 20 years but a friend is trying to get me into riding. I am looking for a vintage hybrid/mountain bike to convert to a drop bar gravel bike.

I found a "1987 Maruishi City Bike" that has CT-12 on the frame. I can't find any information on it, but it looks similar to post 50 above. Unfortunately I don't have 10 posts yet so I can't upload an image. It looks really clean.

The seller is asking for $130, but without being able to find anything on it online, I am not really sure what it is worth. Thoughts?
Post 50 is a Discovery. I don't believe it has CT-12 on it, at least, mine doesn't. There's a seperate thread for appraisals https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...th-appraisals/ you can ask for opinions at.

I converted mine to drop bar. It's a bit heavy, but it's comfortable on the road. I did get it for cheap because there's tons of mountain bikes on craigslist, and it wasn't in perfect condition. It's got nutted wheelset, not quick release. Also, the front brake cable is routed through the stem. If you change the stem, you'll need one which can handle the cable.

good luck.
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Old 09-02-19, 10:36 AM
  #84  
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Just popping in after a long absence to say how much I enjoy it every time an update for this thread appears in my inbox. I hope to get back into the bike world when the kids are bigger. Cheers, everyone!
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Old 09-04-19, 07:25 AM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by rgvg View Post
Post 50 is a Discovery. I don't believe it has CT-12 on it, at least, mine doesn't. There's a seperate thread for appraisals you can ask for opinions at.

I converted mine to drop bar. It's a bit heavy, but it's comfortable on the road. I did get it for cheap because there's tons of mountain bikes on craigslist, and it wasn't in perfect condition. It's got nutted wheelset, not quick release. Also, the front brake cable is routed through the stem. If you change the stem, you'll need one which can handle the cable.

good luck.
Thanks for the info! I ended up talking the seller down to $100, which was my limit for a frame. I am picking it up this weekend and I'm pretty excited. I'm not too worried about the weight as I'll be using it more riding with my kids than anything. Good to know on the front brake cabling. I'll make sure I check that out before buying a stem.

Hopefully I'll hit 10 posts so I can upload some before/after photos once I complete the rebuild. It's going to be my winter project.
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Old 09-04-19, 08:43 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by Vordak View Post
Thanks for the info! I ended up talking the seller down to $100, which was my limit for a frame. I am picking it up this weekend and I'm pretty excited. I'm not too worried about the weight as I'll be using it more riding with my kids than anything. Good to know on the front brake cabling. I'll make sure I check that out before buying a stem.

Hopefully I'll hit 10 posts so I can upload some before/after photos once I complete the rebuild. It's going to be my winter project.
Ignore the 10 post rule. While photos won't attach to the your post, they will upload to an album in the gallery under your forum name, where members can view them. Then a mber can provide a link to them or even post them in this thread, on your behalf.

If the front cable routing is through the stem and the frame has cantilever studs, there is another solution. Replace the cantilevers with V-brakes. They are more powerful and easier to set-up. You just have to make sure that you install levers with a compatible mechanical advantage.
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Old 09-04-19, 09:07 PM
  #87  
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Okay, not mine. Just a cl post, but since the recent previous post was asking about ct-15 and no such image has been posted here yet, ....
Looks decent to me. Straight gauge cromoly, two bottle mounts, double eyelets front and back, and mid fork mounts. Same features as a Discovery, only with a non unicrown fork. I guess a contemporary of the mt-15s? If i didn't already have two maruishi mountain bikes (and a couple other bikes), I'd buy this one. It's begging to be turned into a tourer, I think.
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Old 10-20-19, 08:43 AM
  #88  
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Here is my Roadace RX-6. The wheels were replaced with brand matching Suzie/Araya the rest is original. The frame is emaculate, I did clean a sheen of rust off the headset and I polished the alloys. Today weather permitting I'll be riding the kangaroo.

Here's a few shots of the hopper.







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Old 02-12-20, 11:46 AM
  #89  
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I uncovered this ('86?) Maruishi Record frame that was under a tarp in a pile of junk in someone's backyard earlier this year, and they let me walk away with it before it went to the dump. Still had the Shimano 600 headset, BB, and crankset but I rebuilt it with mostly Arabesque bits. As much as I love the coral pink, I had to do quite a bit of touching-up because of a few minor rust areas, and think I'll strip, repair, repaint, and do a framesaver treatment to it sometime this year so that I can keep riding worry-free. Either way, it's a very fun and lively ride!


Last edited by fvernon; 02-12-20 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 02-12-20, 12:03 PM
  #90  
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.
...not sure you can get decals for these any more. But I've never looked. Nice riding bikes, though.
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Old 02-12-20, 12:08 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
.
...not sure you can get decals for these any more. But I've never looked. Nice riding bikes, though.
I believe the basic Maruishi decals (downtube and seattube) are available on Ebay in a white/black motif, but the Record lettering is probably not possible (heck, it looks like it was hand-painted). I don't want to lose the quality of the paint & decals, but a nice Imron paint job will keep the frame alive.
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Old 02-12-20, 01:16 PM
  #92  
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Here's my '86 Excellence. I got it as a frame and fork. About 22.5lbs as of this moment. It'll drop another pound when I put on the 1400g tubular wheelset I have planned for it.
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Old 02-12-20, 01:42 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by fvernon View Post
I believe the basic Maruishi decals (downtube and seattube) are available on Ebay in a white/black motif, but the Record lettering is probably not possible (heck, it looks like it was hand-painted). I don't want to lose the quality of the paint & decals, but a nice Imron paint job will keep the frame alive.
...if you can get the touch up spots matched up somewhat to your satisfaction, you can spray the entire frame and fork with Spraymax 2K Clear Glamour (after treating it internally with some oil or other). I have done this now with to bikes I like, ahta had reasonably good paint and decals remaining when I got them. It's a 2 part hardened paint, similar to Imron, but without the branding fame. My results with it have been good to very good.

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Old 08-01-20, 04:34 PM
  #94  
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Just bought this... thought I'd post a couple pictures since I can't find *anything* on this model (maybe because it's a women's model).

Unfortunately, I got it home and realized I may have made a big error. It belonged to the seller's daughter, who was barely 5' tall. Yet, he looked up the frame size and it said it should be fine for someone even taller than me (53" frame, I'm 5'6" but my legs are short). I decided to have a look.


80s Maruishi Eagle Ace



Foolishly, I assumed that because the seat goes well up, the handlebars would too. We should have tested it. On the way home I stopped by the bike shop to grab some new chain lube and one of the guys there was kind enough to take a quick look at the handlebars for me, and said he wasn't sure they'd go up any more. I got home, messed with it... I'm not sure if they will, either. Of course, my main problem is that I can't get them to budge at all (even with WD-40 and some gentle knocks with a hammer)-- it doesn't help that I don't have anyone to help me hold the front end still while I try to wiggle the handlebars and get them to move so I have no leverage. This is my first road bike so I know little about how it should be but it looks to me like those handlebars are way too low and if they don't go up more, it's going to be a problem?
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Old 08-01-20, 04:54 PM
  #95  
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Skip the WD40, it's a mediocre lubricant and not a penetrant at all.

First -- when you turn the stem bolt, does the head come up? If the bolt head is still above the top of the stem, then the wedge down below hasn't released. In that case, DON'T try to rotate it. Tap on the top of the bolt. Tap harder if you have to. The bolt head should eventually drop, indicating the wedge has released. At that point, the stem SHOULD move readily.
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Old 08-01-20, 08:24 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Skip the WD40, it's a mediocre lubricant and not a penetrant at all.

First -- when you turn the stem bolt, does the head come up? If the bolt head is still above the top of the stem, then the wedge down below hasn't released. In that case, DON'T try to rotate it. Tap on the top of the bolt. Tap harder if you have to. The bolt head should eventually drop, indicating the wedge has released. At that point, the stem SHOULD move readily.
Thanks, that's what my dad told me, too. When I googled, I had read to tap with a mallet, but I had assumed that was for the bars themselves, just to dislodge if stuck. Yes, if I loosen the bolt, it comes up and I can actually take it all the way out if I unscrew it far enough. I'm going to give that a whirl tomorrow. I might still make more headway if I have a friend help hold everything still so I can wiggle at the handlebars with both hands, but I'm hoping tapping will take care of it. And crossing my fingers there's more stem to bring it up. It doesn't seem she had the handlebars down as far as possible, but surely there should be more than that... (I should've posted a picture of that, too.)

Then I get to learn how to adjust brakes and shifters. Brake shoes look not too bad, rims seem okay. Wheels not perfectly true but not awful. Bearings seemed solid; nothing went clunk or wobbly. Tires aren't as bad as I expected and might last me for a small bit (I'll be using it with a trainer, so I'm just going to be wearing on the rear tire anyway, should be fine for the moment though eventually I'm sure I'll have to replace, especially since I'll be riding it the mile or so to my friend's house where I'll be doing her Zoom spin class). Frame seems fine, some paint chips and scrapes that suggest the former owner may not have been the carefullest, but nothing that looks like accident damage or anything major. Bars need new tape, obviously, and while I'd love to find some matching to the paint color (which is more like the second picture and not as teal at the first one looks, a nice cerulean blue), I'm looking to go as cheap as possible so I'll probably end up with black, which is fine. I'll be glad to get it back riding, even if mostly indoors. Now it needs a name.
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Old 08-01-20, 09:17 PM
  #97  
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Yeah, screw the bolt back in, so you have something to hit to knock the wedge loose.

Trainers wear out tires quickly, but these ones are probably pretty dry anyway (looks can be deceiving), so when the rear wears out, rather than putting on a new tire, put the front tire on the rear. Then buy a pair of tires, but put a new tire on the front only, By the time _that_ rear tire wears out, the new-ish front tire will have very little wear (just the repeated 2-mile round trip). That will be the best way to use up whatever useful life those tires have.

Option - if you have a bike co-op in your area, find another cheap rear wheel with a freewheel, and keep it at your friend's house. Buy two new tires for these wheels, and put one of these old tires on the other wheel, to use on the trainer. You'll still have one more trainer tire to wear out as well.

Double-check the brake pads as well. Old pads, even if they show little use, can be dry and hard, making them poor performers.

Is your mention of black a reference to repainting the whole frame? That would not look good. And you wouldn't want to lose the branding just on account of some nicks and scratches. You can experiment with mixing Testors paints, literally a droplet on a toothpick at a time, to get the right shade of blue.
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Old 08-01-20, 11:16 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Yeah, screw the bolt back in, so you have something to hit to knock the wedge loose.

Trainers wear out tires quickly, but these ones are probably pretty dry anyway (looks can be deceiving), so when the rear wears out, rather than putting on a new tire, put the front tire on the rear. Then buy a pair of tires, but put a new tire on the front only, By the time _that_ rear tire wears out, the new-ish front tire will have very little wear (just the repeated 2-mile round trip). That will be the best way to use up whatever useful life those tires have.
Oh, good idea! Yes, these are on the dry side and obviously old, but, not as cracked or anything as I would have expected, and the guy at the bike shop agreed from the brief look he took. I'll be keeping a close eye on them-- obviously I don't want to take a spill on the street if they give out, on the trainer not such a big deal.

Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
YOption - if you have a bike co-op in your area, find another cheap rear wheel with a freewheel, and keep it at your friend's house. Buy two new tires for these wheels, and put one of these old tires on the other wheel, to use on the trainer. You'll still have one more trainer tire to wear out as well
Lack of wanting to take the rear wheel on and off constantly is why I got a dedicated trainer bike to begin with, rather than just a trainer tire for my regular bike. (I don't want to wear out the tires on my regular bike unevenly, nor to keep taking the wheel on/off for a trainer-tire wheel. If I had to do that, I would just never use the trainer. Way too much hassle. This is my compromise, as suggested by another friend.)


Originally Posted by madpogue View Post
Is your mention of black a reference to repainting the whole frame? That would not look good. And you wouldn't want to lose the branding just on account of some nicks and scratches. You can experiment with mixing Testors paints, literally a droplet on a toothpick at a time, to get the right shade of blue.
No, no. I meant the bar tape. I will not be painting the bike. 1. I like the color and don't care about the nicks (on a car, yes, this would be a concern as they'd be constantly exposed to the elements and would rust, but on a bike, no such worries, and I don't care about the merely-cosmetic), and 2. even if I hated the color, I wouldn't care enough to paint it. I was just saying that while I'd love to have bar tape in blue to match the bike, I'm going to go super-cheap with the tape so will probably end up with black.
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Old 08-02-20, 08:54 AM
  #99  
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Picked this up awhile back and resold it. All 600 Arabesque

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Old 08-02-20, 12:22 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by Kat12 View Post
Lack of wanting to take the rear wheel on and off constantly is why I got a dedicated trainer bike to begin with, rather than just a trainer tire for my regular bike. (I don't want to wear out the tires on my regular bike unevenly, nor to keep taking the wheel on/off for a trainer-tire wheel. If I had to do that, I would just never use the trainer. Way too much hassle. This is my compromise, as suggested by another friend.)
Not a compromise at all. Actually a very good idea, best of both worlds. So how good a friend is your friend with the trainer? Would she be willing to let you keep the Maruishi at her crib? Then you can ride your existing bike to/from and not have to worry about tires at all. Remind her of how cool it is to have a classic Japanese bike around the place, just to rest her eyes on. Okay, well maybe chocolate.
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