Centurion IronMan Expert- Did I win?
03-30-12, 12:02 AM
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Centurion IronMan Expert- Did I win?
I was directed here from the road cycling section of the forums. Here was my original post:
Hello! I am new to road biking. I was hoping the extensive knowledge of Bike Forums could shed some light and guide me.
I believe it is a 1987 or 1989 Centurion IronMan Dave Scott expert. I bought it for $150. So far, I've spent 44 dollars on two Bontrager tires (the old tires were dried up and unusable, hauled the bike away on a bike rack) and 4 dollars on a roll of rim tape.
Here are some specs of some parts that are installed:
Mavic MA40 rims
Diabolo front hub
unknown rear hub
Specialized skewers
Shimano 105 SLR brake levers, brake calipers, unknown brake pads
Shimano 105 index shifters on the down tube
Shimano 105 Front derailleur
Shimano 105 Rear derailleur
Shimano 105 pedals
Shimano 600 rear cassette (MF-6208, 6 speed)
Schwinn Hollow-Point saddle
uknown saddle post
A few questions:
Did I get a good deal? What kind of cleats do I need to ride with the current pedals installed? What is upgradable? Do they still make brake hoods for my current brake levers? What needs to be checked (so I don't possibly die due to mechanical failure)?
I was planning on going to my LBS (Elixxir, mainly sells Giant bikes), and have them check my cables and whatnot.
Here are some pictures:
Hello! I am new to road biking. I was hoping the extensive knowledge of Bike Forums could shed some light and guide me.
I believe it is a 1987 or 1989 Centurion IronMan Dave Scott expert. I bought it for $150. So far, I've spent 44 dollars on two Bontrager tires (the old tires were dried up and unusable, hauled the bike away on a bike rack) and 4 dollars on a roll of rim tape.
Here are some specs of some parts that are installed:
Mavic MA40 rims
Diabolo front hub
unknown rear hub
Specialized skewers
Shimano 105 SLR brake levers, brake calipers, unknown brake pads
Shimano 105 index shifters on the down tube
Shimano 105 Front derailleur
Shimano 105 Rear derailleur
Shimano 105 pedals
Shimano 600 rear cassette (MF-6208, 6 speed)
Schwinn Hollow-Point saddle
uknown saddle post
A few questions:
Did I get a good deal? What kind of cleats do I need to ride with the current pedals installed? What is upgradable? Do they still make brake hoods for my current brake levers? What needs to be checked (so I don't possibly die due to mechanical failure)?
I was planning on going to my LBS (Elixxir, mainly sells Giant bikes), and have them check my cables and whatnot.
Here are some pictures:
03-30-12, 03:54 AM
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Did I get a good deal? What kind of cleats do I need to ride with the current pedals installed? What is upgradable? Do they still make brake hoods for my current brake levers? What needs to be checked (so I don't possibly die due to mechanical failure)?
Oh yes, good deal. I paid $150 for my 54cm Expert without qualm. It seems to be in good shape. Replacing the tires may be all you need to do until you decide what, if anything, to upgrade. See the "Retro Roadies" thread for some ideas.
Your pedals are deigned for old-style cleats and shoes. There are some adapters for contemporary cycling shoes, but you can actually use running shoes or narrow MTB shoes for the time being.
Replacement hoods can be found. Someone here may be able to help, and there's always eBay. I'd try cleaning them up, first.
As far as what to check? Make sure the seat post and/or stem are not stuck! (You'll need a hex wrench for that.) Inspect the cables for cuts or fraying. Check the rims for cracks at the spoke eyelets. Check for play in the headset. Check and replace the brake pads.
That should do for starters. I'm sure others will chime in.
And welcome to the (Ironman) club!
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2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
2010 AB T1X ** 2010 Cannondale SIX-5 ** 1993 Cannondale RS900 ** 1988 Bottecchia Team Record ** 1989 Bianchi Brava ** 1988 Nishiki Olympic ** 1987 Centurion Ironman Expert(2) ** 1985 DeRosa Professional SLX ** 1982 Colnago Super ** 1982 Basso Gap ** 198? Ciocc Competition SL ** 19?? Roberts Audax ** 198? Brian Rourke ** 1982 Mercian Olympic ** 1970 Raleigh Professional MK I ** 1952 Raleigh Sports
Last edited by horatio; 03-30-12 at 04:32 AM.
03-30-12, 04:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JDMKidBill
I was directed here from the road cycling section of the forums.
Chances are, some nice C&V person was over there.
Generally, they'll just deride you for (gasp) riding steel bikes.
Welcome to the somewhat well-adjusted.
Hello! I am new to road biking. I was hoping the extensive knowledge of Bike Forums could shed some light and guide me.
You've already proven your wisdom with this purchase.
I believe it is a 1987 or 1989 Centurion IronMan Dave Scott Expert. It is a 1987.
I bought it for $150. So far, I've spent 44 dollars on two Bontrager tires (the old tires were dried up and unusable, hauled the bike away on a bike rack) and 4 dollars on a roll of rim tape. You are still well under what can be justified as far as expenses. It's now your ride, and keeping it a) safe b) cool and c) fast is justifiable with any bike, more so with a good one like this.
Here are some specs of some parts that are installed:
Mavic MA40 rims not original, but stronger, in my opinion than what came on it. Not as light, but more durable.
Diabolo front hub probably changed out when the wheelset was replaced.
unknown rear hub ditto
Specialized skewers ditto
Shimano 105 SLR brake levers, brake calipers, unknown brake pads OEM
Shimano 105 index shifters on the down tube OEM
Shimano 105 Front derailleur OEM
Shimano 105 Rear derailleur OEM
Shimano 105 pedalsS OEM, sort of. The bike was generally sold without pedals. Those are beauties.
Shimano 600 rear cassette (MF-6208, 6 speed) good cassette, most likely a replacement.
Schwinn Hollow-Point saddle that's, uh, personal.
uknown saddle post not a big issue, unless it's stuck.
A few questions:
Did I get a good deal? Yes.
What kind of cleats do I need to ride with the current pedals installed?
I use indoor soccer shoes with those kind of pedals.
What is upgradable?
Everything. You can simply swap in the original wheels to go in that direction,
or upgrade the heck out of it, per horatio's post about Retro Roadies...
Do they still make brake hoods for my current brake levers?
They're available on eBay, in black and sometimes white.
What needs to be checked (so I don't possibly die due to mechanical failure)?
As with any bike: cables, housing, brake pads, hub bearings, bottom bracket bearings, headset bearings.
I was planning on going to my LBS (Elixxir, mainly sells Giant bikes), and have them check my cables and whatnot.
Beware the possible bias against great old bikes, but most bike shops, especially older mechanics, will help you out.
Chances are, some nice C&V person was over there.
Generally, they'll just deride you for (gasp) riding steel bikes.
Welcome to the somewhat well-adjusted.
Hello! I am new to road biking. I was hoping the extensive knowledge of Bike Forums could shed some light and guide me.
You've already proven your wisdom with this purchase.
I believe it is a 1987 or 1989 Centurion IronMan Dave Scott Expert. It is a 1987.
I bought it for $150. So far, I've spent 44 dollars on two Bontrager tires (the old tires were dried up and unusable, hauled the bike away on a bike rack) and 4 dollars on a roll of rim tape. You are still well under what can be justified as far as expenses. It's now your ride, and keeping it a) safe b) cool and c) fast is justifiable with any bike, more so with a good one like this.
Here are some specs of some parts that are installed:
Mavic MA40 rims not original, but stronger, in my opinion than what came on it. Not as light, but more durable.
Diabolo front hub probably changed out when the wheelset was replaced.
unknown rear hub ditto
Specialized skewers ditto
Shimano 105 SLR brake levers, brake calipers, unknown brake pads OEM
Shimano 105 index shifters on the down tube OEM
Shimano 105 Front derailleur OEM
Shimano 105 Rear derailleur OEM
Shimano 105 pedalsS OEM, sort of. The bike was generally sold without pedals. Those are beauties.
Shimano 600 rear cassette (MF-6208, 6 speed) good cassette, most likely a replacement.
Schwinn Hollow-Point saddle that's, uh, personal.
uknown saddle post not a big issue, unless it's stuck.
A few questions:
Did I get a good deal? Yes.
What kind of cleats do I need to ride with the current pedals installed?
I use indoor soccer shoes with those kind of pedals.
What is upgradable?
Everything. You can simply swap in the original wheels to go in that direction,
or upgrade the heck out of it, per horatio's post about Retro Roadies...
Do they still make brake hoods for my current brake levers?
They're available on eBay, in black and sometimes white.
What needs to be checked (so I don't possibly die due to mechanical failure)?
As with any bike: cables, housing, brake pads, hub bearings, bottom bracket bearings, headset bearings.
I was planning on going to my LBS (Elixxir, mainly sells Giant bikes), and have them check my cables and whatnot.
Beware the possible bias against great old bikes, but most bike shops, especially older mechanics, will help you out.
You can ask any questions here, or in PM's to most of us.
We'll help if we can or lie about it if we can't.
Welcome to the forum, and Ironman culthood.
Because you're a new C&V owner, and especially as a new Ironman owner, someone needs to send your wife "the pamphlet."
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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 03-30-12 at 05:02 AM.
03-30-12, 06:17 AM
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You did great! Very nice bike! I own one and I like it!
03-30-12, 07:30 AM
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I have the same pedals on my 1988 Cannondale SR500, I ride in a pair of Skechers.
03-30-12, 08:20 AM
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Very nice!!
03-30-12, 12:40 PM
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Great Score! You will never regret $150 spent on an Ironman.
Welcome to bicycling excellence!! 
03-30-12, 02:38 PM
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Fantastic deal! Welcome to C&V JDMKidBill!
RobbieTunes is our resident/ (The World's?) Ironman expert and I can't add anything of any value to what he said in his post.
I've got the same pedals on one of my bikes and with the toe clips and straps there's no need to use cleats - I just wear a pair of running shoes, which are great because it means I can walk when I'm not on the bike without waddling like a pixellated penguin and slipping over a lot, which is my experience when I'm wearing my road shoes with cleats for 'clipless' pedals!
If you are determined to have cleats, you can sometimes get plastic Addidas ones that will fit the screw holes in modern cycling shoes that are spaced for Shimano and Look/Time style cleats. These have a single transverse slot that fits over the back plate of the pedal. I've got a pair but don't use them much, it can be a bit of a panic/drama to get out of the pedals in a hurry. IMHO they aren't necessary, but I prefer the old school toeclips and straps to 'clipless' anyway. It's what you get used to, I know other respected cyclists have the opposite opinion.
Enjoy your bike!
RobbieTunes is our resident/ (The World's?) Ironman expert and I can't add anything of any value to what he said in his post.
I've got the same pedals on one of my bikes and with the toe clips and straps there's no need to use cleats - I just wear a pair of running shoes, which are great because it means I can walk when I'm not on the bike without waddling like a pixellated penguin and slipping over a lot, which is my experience when I'm wearing my road shoes with cleats for 'clipless' pedals!
If you are determined to have cleats, you can sometimes get plastic Addidas ones that will fit the screw holes in modern cycling shoes that are spaced for Shimano and Look/Time style cleats. These have a single transverse slot that fits over the back plate of the pedal. I've got a pair but don't use them much, it can be a bit of a panic/drama to get out of the pedals in a hurry. IMHO they aren't necessary, but I prefer the old school toeclips and straps to 'clipless' anyway. It's what you get used to, I know other respected cyclists have the opposite opinion.
Enjoy your bike!
03-30-12, 02:40 PM
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Those pedals are designed to work with slotted cleats, but you can just ride in regular shoes. I have the 105 & 600 versions and I ride in adidas indoor soccer shoes.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html
03-30-12, 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by not_me
Those pedals are designed to work with slotted cleats, but you can just ride in regular shoes. I have the 105 & 600 versions and I ride in adidas indoor soccer shoes.
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html
https://www.yellowjersey.org/tocleat.html
03-30-12, 04:16 PM
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You did quite well. You are going to love that bike. I just don't get it how such nice bikes are available for relatively cheap. If more people knew how nice they were the prices would head up. I picked up a 1987 'Miami Vice' for $175 last fall. The guy was a flipper. He threw in an extra set of brand new tires, an extra brand new cassette and an extra wheel. Hopefully for those of us that are buyers the prices stay low.
03-30-12, 05:27 PM
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Great, thanks for the feedback! After a few rides on my Ironman, I love it. I don't believe the seller knew what it was worth to the bike community. I was told cycling would be easier in cleats, but it appears since I already have toe cages and straps, I could just ride around in my Vans. I might be able to get myself some free used mountain bike cleats from a family member.
My handlebar does not appear to be cracked. The hex-bolt that holds the handlebar in place seems to be somewhat stripped.... but I am able to tighten and loosen it with a 6mm hex wrench. I don't see any visible cracks. The cables look slightly rusted, but still operable. I've cleaned my brake hoods a couple of days ago, and they feel sticky even now. My seat post is NOT stuck to my frame
I'll check out the serial number thread.
I also received a free Dura-Ace freewheel- the MF-7400. In addition, I received the Park Tools FR-1 removal tool. In what situations would the MF-7400 be of better use?
My handlebar does not appear to be cracked. The hex-bolt that holds the handlebar in place seems to be somewhat stripped.... but I am able to tighten and loosen it with a 6mm hex wrench. I don't see any visible cracks. The cables look slightly rusted, but still operable. I've cleaned my brake hoods a couple of days ago, and they feel sticky even now. My seat post is NOT stuck to my frame
I'll check out the serial number thread.I also received a free Dura-Ace freewheel- the MF-7400. In addition, I received the Park Tools FR-1 removal tool. In what situations would the MF-7400 be of better use?
03-30-12, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by JDMKidBill
I also received a free Dura-Ace freewheel- the MF-7400. In addition, I received the Park Tools FR-1 removal tool. In what situations would the MF-7400 be of better use?
That freewheel (I think he has a freewheel, right Robbie?) should be 25 - 35 grams lighter, have better shifting, and would be made from a higher grade of material and workmanship, and theoretically should last longer.
The big question however, is, weren't Dura Ace 7400 7 & 8 speeds on their own proprietary cog spacing that did not match the other Shimano & Suntour freewheels of that time period... So is it compatible with his Shimano 105 DT index shifters, or would he need to install DA 7400 7 speed shifters to use that freewheel?
03-30-12, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Suburban Grind
Dura Ace is the step above Ultegra/ 600 series components, manufacturer Shimano says it's made for professional racers.
That freewheel (I think he has a freewheel, right Robbie?) should be 25 - 35 grams lighter, have better shifting, and would be made from a higher grade of material and workmanship, and theoretically should last longer.
The big question however, is, weren't Dura Ace 7400 7 & 8 speeds on their own proprietary cog spacing that did not match the other Shimano & Suntour freewheels of that time period... So is it compatible with his Shimano 105 DT index shifters, or would he need to install DA 7400 7 speed shifters to use that freewheel?
That freewheel (I think he has a freewheel, right Robbie?) should be 25 - 35 grams lighter, have better shifting, and would be made from a higher grade of material and workmanship, and theoretically should last longer.
The big question however, is, weren't Dura Ace 7400 7 & 8 speeds on their own proprietary cog spacing that did not match the other Shimano & Suntour freewheels of that time period... So is it compatible with his Shimano 105 DT index shifters, or would he need to install DA 7400 7 speed shifters to use that freewheel?
Last edited by JDMKidBill; 03-30-12 at 06:54 PM.
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