Hoods For "Safety" Levers
#26
The Left Coast, USA
Tru dat. I have a D-A pair on a '72 Miyata, they are awesome for commuting. That light finger feathering you can use with your hands right in back of the hoods is so much better than the touch you get with levers or in-lines. Too bad all the crap stuff soured the market.
#27
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Bikes: 1983 Nishiki Century and 2010 Scattante R-330
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Purchased for $165 a month ago or so.
The only thing I changed was the handlebar tape. I might have kept the foam grips if they weren't embedded with dust and dirt. Every time I touched them (and most parts of the bike before I washed it) my hands turned brown. Also took off plastic Specialized toe clips, a Specialized bicycle computer (not sure what those are called...) and front reflector. Going to add these leather clips and straps when they are delivered to the store:
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=131714
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=112207
Looking for a brown/tan saddle for around $30 too.
The only thing I changed was the handlebar tape. I might have kept the foam grips if they weren't embedded with dust and dirt. Every time I touched them (and most parts of the bike before I washed it) my hands turned brown. Also took off plastic Specialized toe clips, a Specialized bicycle computer (not sure what those are called...) and front reflector. Going to add these leather clips and straps when they are delivered to the store:
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=131714
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=112207
Looking for a brown/tan saddle for around $30 too.
#28
Bianchi Goddess
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Shady Pines Retirement Fort Wayne, In
Posts: 27,858
Bikes: Too many to list here check my signature.
Mentioned: 192 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2930 Post(s)
Liked 2,923 Times
in
1,491 Posts
Great job it looks really nice.
I agree with Custemoustache and FrenchFit, I had the Sizzling Peach Volpe out yesterday for a short errand and it stopps pretty darn good with the turkey levers. Is a matter of good adjustment or just because that bike has cantilevers and not old centerpulls?
__________________
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
#29
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,193
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,295 Times
in
865 Posts
A good setup will stop the bike with less lever travel needed, so first of all, better pads stop faster with less system flex from heavy cable force.
Pads that are broader, thiner and better-aligned with the rim will consume less cable/lever travel from flexing as well.
Smoother cables will require less force at the lever, that means less lever flex and a bit less stretch/compression in the cable/housing.
The brake lever body can be trimmed at the front where the lever hits (the return stop edge), which lets the levers extend a little further away from the handlebar. This extra lever travel allows more cable travel.
Lastly, the pivot of the turkey lever should be as smooth and rigid as possible, so lubrication, good bushings, hood clearance and tight screws can only help.
Long live turkey levers.
Pads that are broader, thiner and better-aligned with the rim will consume less cable/lever travel from flexing as well.
Smoother cables will require less force at the lever, that means less lever flex and a bit less stretch/compression in the cable/housing.
The brake lever body can be trimmed at the front where the lever hits (the return stop edge), which lets the levers extend a little further away from the handlebar. This extra lever travel allows more cable travel.
Lastly, the pivot of the turkey lever should be as smooth and rigid as possible, so lubrication, good bushings, hood clearance and tight screws can only help.
Long live turkey levers.
#30
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 11
Bikes: 1983 Nishiki Century and 2010 Scattante R-330
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Saw a Miyata today with wrapped safety levers... haven't seen those before. Wish I took a picture.