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Hoods For "Safety" Levers

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Old 05-20-12, 11:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by custermustache
I have a 1973 World Voyager with safety levers, and man, they are awesome. If you have a nice pair with well tuned brakes, they are perfectly functional. CHEAP turkey levers suck - but I am a fan of a good set.
Tru dat. I have a D-A pair on a '72 Miyata, they are awesome for commuting. That light finger feathering you can use with your hands right in back of the hoods is so much better than the touch you get with levers or in-lines. Too bad all the crap stuff soured the market.
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Old 05-23-12, 10:49 AM
  #27  
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Purchased for $165 a month ago or so.



The only thing I changed was the handlebar tape. I might have kept the foam grips if they weren't embedded with dust and dirt. Every time I touched them (and most parts of the bike before I washed it) my hands turned brown. Also took off plastic Specialized toe clips, a Specialized bicycle computer (not sure what those are called...) and front reflector. Going to add these leather clips and straps when they are delivered to the store:

https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?id=131714
https://www.cambriabike.com/shopexd.asp?ID=112207



Looking for a brown/tan saddle for around $30 too.
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Old 05-23-12, 11:59 AM
  #28  
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Great job it looks really nice.




I agree with Custemoustache and FrenchFit, I had the Sizzling Peach Volpe out yesterday for a short errand and it stopps pretty darn good with the turkey levers. Is a matter of good adjustment or just because that bike has cantilevers and not old centerpulls?
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Old 05-23-12, 07:54 PM
  #29  
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A good setup will stop the bike with less lever travel needed, so first of all, better pads stop faster with less system flex from heavy cable force.
Pads that are broader, thiner and better-aligned with the rim will consume less cable/lever travel from flexing as well.
Smoother cables will require less force at the lever, that means less lever flex and a bit less stretch/compression in the cable/housing.
The brake lever body can be trimmed at the front where the lever hits (the return stop edge), which lets the levers extend a little further away from the handlebar. This extra lever travel allows more cable travel.
Lastly, the pivot of the turkey lever should be as smooth and rigid as possible, so lubrication, good bushings, hood clearance and tight screws can only help.

Long live turkey levers.
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Old 06-15-12, 12:51 AM
  #30  
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Saw a Miyata today with wrapped safety levers... haven't seen those before. Wish I took a picture.
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