The MAX

So I have been in search of a local source for OA here in Nova Scotia and thought I had found one at Home Hardware. I found online a box, labeled "wood bleach" and thought it would be the ticket. So i went to pick it up, and it turns out it's a binary liquid (two components to add together to activate) with no ingredients list or instructions. I got the MSDS from them and it turns out the liquids are Hydrogen Peroxide and Disodium Tetraborate Decahydrate. It also says under special exposure hazards "Contact with incompatible materials (eg: metas, alkalis, and reducing agents) will cause hazardous decomposition resulting in the release of large quantities of heat , steam and oxygen gas."

I figured, what the hell, worst case scenario I bring it back unopened, or I try it out on a small bolt or something.

What do you guys think?

wrk101

Sherwin Williams paint store, Halifax.

You bought a mix of borax and a type of bleach. Don't think it is going to work.

The MAX

You rule.

[edit]: May have spoke too soon. They don't stock it, and they might not be able to order it in for some reason. Lady is checking on it for me and will get back to me. She also suggested Rona and Benjamin-Moore. Rona has nothing on their site, will have to check BM when they open tomorrow.

wrk101

Hopefully they can order it for you. Here in the states, every SW store I have been to stocks oxalic acid as wood bleach. Sarvogran or something like that.

For larger quantities, I buy from Van ****s (Taxidermy supplies over the internet). Price is much cheaper, only makes sense if you need more of it. I don't know if they ship to Canada or not. Realize there are two Van ****s selling on the internet, one is vintage home parts (I have bought from them as well), the other is taxidermy supply. Van ****s sells as little as a one pound box, so it depends on shipping to you.

I stopped buying from Sherwin Williams and went with Van ****s instead, as I use a fair amount of it.

https://www.van****staxidermy.com/Search.aspx?k=oxalic

Evaporust below is fine. Do an entire frameset and it gets expensive. I will use about one and a half pounds of oxalic for a full frame bath, and reuse it multiple times. Try making a 60 gallon bath of evaporust (I buy OA in five pound lots from Van ****s). For small parts, I might use an ounce of OA, cost is just about zero. And I will reuse that same small bath for a long time. In fact, I typically draw off a couple of gallons from the frame bath and reuse it.

darrenw1

I just bought some Evapo-Rust from Canadian Tire today and it seems to be taking the rust off the seat base and springs from a neglected 1937 CCM.

https://www.canadiantire.ca/search/se...08474396672077

Simplyhere

There is some stuff called CLR, for Calcium, Lime and Rust Remover. Worked like a charm on some old bolts I had with rust on them. In fact, better than the OA I have. I don't know if it's available where you are, but maybe it's an option. I used it full strength, pulled the parts out about every 15 minutes and brushed them with a stiff, plastic bristled brush.

speedy25

Not sure what you are going to do, but if it IS rust removal the look for Metal Rescue. I saw this stuff in person at a trade show. It has no toxicity and will remove rust and not paint. I was impressed. The listed Menards and Home Depot as stocking retailers a few months back but they have probably added more by now.

-SP

SteveSGP

I use something they sell as a rust stain remover for driveways and sidewalks, works great.

Ace hardware has it all the time.

clubman 

Hey MAX.

You're from Halifax, yes? Bebbington Industries in Burnside has lab grade OA crystals. Much more expensive but it's concentrated and will last you for the foreseeable future.

Or I can give you some to try out. PM, if you like, I'm in the Valley.

Paramount1973 

Old tools guys use citric acid which is sold at DIY brewing supply stores.

The MAX

Thanks Clubman, I may take you up on that...

unworthy1

CLR is a solution of Lactic acid and Gluconic acid, it can be diluted with (more) water.
The typical acid sold as a concrete cleaner is Muriatic acid (AKA Hydrochloric acid) which is much stronger (more caustic) and absolutely should be diluted and used with protective gear.
Any acid (vinegar, citric, etc.) will attack rust to some degree but Oxalic is said to have a special property (and since I'm no Chemist I can't recall what that is) that makes it especially good.
My personal choice is Phosphoric acid, known to be an ingredient in many Cola softdrinks but not concentrated enough in those to work for my rusty stuff...sold here in Hardware Stores as "Must for Rust" as well as for Auto Body professionals as "SEM Rust Mort"...and more...