Chicago Al 

I was very excited to find a set of Bluemels 'Popular' fenders in white, to put on my wife's Bob Jackson mixte.

The install is not going so well though. Front, no problem. Back, I needed to trim a bit of the plastic to get the leading edge between the chainstays, which was not a big deal. But after that, the fender is right up against the centerpull brake and the bridge (if the brake wasn't there). And after that squeeze, something happens where I can't keep the trailing edge of the fender from twisting and rubbing badly. I could move the wheel forward in the dropout (it's about midpoint) but that'll make it a tighter fit at the brake bridge. I had to deflate the tire to get the wheel back on!

I actually wondered if somehow these fenders were intended for 26" wheels but judging from the front, they should work. (That one just needs a little adjustment.) Maybe they simply don't work with a bike where the brake bridge is so close?

Any suggestions welcome...or, I likely have a nice, slightly clipped pair of white Bluemels FS/FT.




sorry this one is flipped 90 by the uploader here for some reason.

buldogge

The problem appears to be the lower brake position of the Mixte frame. Is there a brake mount hole at the top position as well?

Chicago Al 

There is an upper bridge that could possibly be used for a brake, but not a centerpull, and the cable has to make a bend to work there which makes it less effective. I've had that arrangement on other mixtes.

The fender is right up against the inside of the brake caliper, and the caliper itself only adds maybe 1/8" below the brake bridge, so it seems like the fender would be tight against in any case.

Maybe I can get a closeup pic there. It may be this just is not going to work.

southpawboston

+1. The fender arc is getting pinched at the brake bridge, and it's affecting the curvature at the rear. I have the same problem with a set of SKS chromoplastic fenders on my Trek, though not as severe as on your wife's bike (which is gorgeous, BTW!):



This problem seems to affect plastic fenders more than aluminum fenders, but that' probably because plastic fenders aren't malleable and have memory. The only way to force them to conform is by putting uneven tensions on the stays.

I think you should move the wheel farther BACK in the DO, not farther forward. That will move it away from the bridge (it looks like you have enough brake reach to adjust for moving the wheel back) and should help even things out, at least a little bit. Then you will also have to alter the fender's front edge clip so that it's not clipping onto the chain stay bridge, but sitting behind it to move it closer to the wheel (zip tie the clip to a P-clamp wrapped around the bridge, this is what I did with the Bluemels on my Mercian to achieve a proper fender line at the chain stay bridge-- otherwise that front fender edge is always way too forward):

Chicago Al 

SPB...I see what you mean, and by George...that might do it! The fitting at the brake is always going to be the tight spot, but if it's similarly tight 'before' that, the pressure should be off and there should be more room at the trailing edge. Going out shortly, but I will try that tomorrow. Thanks!

Grand Bois

I had to Dremel a slot in the fender and move the L bracket to the inside of the fender to get it as close as possible to the rear brake. I reattached it with pop rivets. The ridge on the fender at the brake is relieved, also. I have to deflate the tire to remove/install the wheel, but I did without fenders. No big deal.



Try moving the L bracket on the front fender to the front of the fork. That sometimes works better.

clubman 

I'd start with a spacer at the chainstay bridge to move the virtual " centre" of the mudguards back and help accommodate the natural arc.


Then slack everything off and wiggle it all into position. Populars are not especially narrow and sometimes you have to relieve the edges at the brake bridge to get it right.

southpawboston

Think of it this way: the fitting at the brake will be better than it is now, as the wheel will move away about 4-5mm from the brake as it slides back in the dropout. And the resultant fender gap there will define the fender line for the rest of the fender; i.e., aim to match the clearance at the brake all the way around the fender.

wahoonc

^^^ This, I have a couple of bikes that have spacers at that point to maintain the proper fender lines.

Aaron

southpawboston

I agree in theory, and have used spacers on most bikes where the fender uses a bolt. However, spacers won't work with Bluemels. They have a riveted spring clip that clips onto the seat stay bridge, and a spacer would be incompatible with it. But I agree that the fender needs to be spaced back from the bridge, which is why I suggested fastening the clip to a P-clip. However, the Bluemels clip can be removed from the fender by drilling out the rivets, and a traditional bolt with spacer can be substituted as you describe.

Here are some photos of my solution to the Bluemels clip problem:

Velognome 

Squeezing a plastic fender never seems to work well as Southpawboston explained. I've seen several where the sides of the fenders were cut away to make room for the calipers, stays and fork crowns. Good luck!