1989 Raleigh Alyeska 27"
 

Hi. I just bought an 89 Raleigh Alyeska 27.

It has a 6 speed on back - a triple on the front. It has 27 inch rims.

What can you guys tell me about this bike? I paid $150 for it. It seemed fair as it is immaculate. There is no rust. It slept inside with original owner who even had the manual and receipt. He said he rode it all over new mexico for a year or two and then it fell to the side. He had new wires/tires/tubes put on the other year thinking he'd get back into it, but turned out his knee was bummed.

Everything seems to work. A couple of the spokes seem a little loose, so I'm going to take the wheels to get tensioned, dished, and trued.

I'm guessing it has a freewheel and not a cassette. Is changing to a modern cassette based system hard? Is there someway to go to an 8 speed? Since it is a friction shifter would the derailleur work with something modern?

Would the frame spacing on this one be the same as modern bikes?

Since it has cantilever brakes, can you just put 700 c wheels on it?

Any other cool things about this bike?

Thanks!

Is changing to a modern cassette based system hard?
If you also change the wheelset to cassette wheels, then no - but you really don't need to do this as decent 27 inch tires are around

Is there someway to go to an 8 speed? - yes but...
I'd thread on a newer 7 speed hyperglide freewheel, then you don't need new wheels and would pick up an extra gear. With a triple crank on the front, you probably don't need more than that..?

Since it is a friction shifter would the derailleur work with something modern? Friction shifting works with just about anything as long as the chain is compatible with the cassette/freewheel

Would the frame spacing on this one be the same as modern bikes?
This is probably a 126mm rear spacing, and new 700c cassette wheels are generally 130mm. With a steel frame, the frame will usually accommodate the extra 4mm in "spring" without need for cold setting

Since it has cantilever brakes, can you just put 700 c wheels on it?
Again, I'd just put the 7 speed freewheel on the existing wheelset. It might work with 700c wheels, but would work better with 27's (if that's the stock wheelset) - the difference in the wheelsets is about 4mm in radius, so it would probably work with a bit of fiddling

Any other cool things about this bike?
It's a very cool bike and as a full on touring bike, sort of rare just in the fact it's a full on tourer (in today's world of mainly racy bikes). I'd leave it stock, upgrade the freewheel (maybe) and enjoy it pretty much as is. Touring bikes are somewhat heavier by nature, trying to lighten them up with modern parts isn't really going to gain you much. I'd enjoy it as is, it's really a nice bike for what it's meant for, as is, if it's as mint as you describe.

In the condition you described, $150 is a steal. Pictures are mandatory.

Double post

Screamin deal bordering on the criminal. This is a very, very well-regarded frameset. Don't be too quick to change gearing if your front rings are almost the same size: you would have a half-step system and that, my friend, is something people shell out bigtime to achieve with a custom build. Instead of swapping out, learn how to make it work for you.

Tell me it's 25" so I can slam my head against a wall. ( been lookin' for one for a while) If it's as clean as you say, $150 is a steal!

Did they make them in 1989?

Here's mine
http://www.pedalroom.com/p/raleigh-a...ad-3415_11.jpg

smooth bike, but watch out

http://www.pedalroom.com/p/raleigh-a...ead-3415_8.jpg

It actually is a 25" . . . :P



I'll take pics tomorrow.

Ouch ;)

In for pics.

Really great bike. You should get alot of use out of it. I have the Touring 18 (pretty much the same bike) and I love it.

http://i373.photobucket.com/albums/o...g?t=1336432957

Ditto...

I have that series of bikes on my watch list, along with the Super Tourist if one ever comes along in the 25" size :P

Aaron :)

I've been really enjoying the Alyeska I got for a comparable price. I liked it OK stock, but I like it a lot better after adding:


fenders
supertall Chinese chromo stem
Nashbar moustache-style bars
bar-end shifters
24/36/46 chainrings
Nashbar springy saddle
twin leg kickstand (helps when loading up my 4-year-old!)
new brake pads
37mm tires


I like the sturdy 40-spoke rear wheel, but I hate that it's threaded for a freewheel and that it's 27"/ISO 630. Going to a cassette requires a different hub (a "freehub"), and 27" tire selection royally stinks (nothing wider than 37mm, and those are few and far between).

I just picked up what looks to be a Raleigh Touring 18 last week and I am pretty happy with it. Here is a pic of it when I brought it home. I have been wanting a touring bike of this vintange ever since I stupidly didn't buy a Schwinn Passage over a year ago when I could have and then obviously it was gone when I went back.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSCF5887.jpg

It does have this ding in the top tube, but I am not particularly concerned about it. This pic shows the overall condition of the paint it has lots of nicks and scratches far from perfect, but thats ok with me.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/DSCF5893.jpg

There is a 1989 21" Raleigh Alyeska for sale locally that is claimed in the CL post that was bought and then hung up after 2 weeks and has been there ever since if anyone is interested.

http://lincoln.craigslist.org/bik/3076090402.html

Currently testing some yard-sale 700c wheels on my bike. As per info in another thread, it's very easy to do it with the stock brakes even though a newer brake with some vertical adjustment may be a bit nicer. Shocking how much smoother the ride is with the cheap 50psi, no-model-name 38mm Kendas that came with the wheels.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=375013I have a lead on this exact bicycle but seller wants $425. It's in pretty good condition, about 8/10. Any idea how much I should offer. Frame does fit me nicely.

$425 is a little high, if it were me. I'd go 350.

That being said, if you plan on changing wheel size to 700c from 27", you should get a different bike- the brake studs are so close to the rim and have such a small drop that those extra 4 mm are nigh impossible to get the pads straight. I know. I tried. And there are no modern canti's that will fit that I've found.

Next time, you should start a new thread instead of resurrecting an old, unrelated thread. You're likely going to get more answers related to the OP's questions than your own.

$425 seems high, but vintage touring bikes tend to pull extra money these days. What are other bikes in your area going for?

More importantly, does it fit? That picture is of a tiny bike.

How much to offer = how much is it worth TO YOU? Just offer what it is worth to you. If it is worth more to another person, they will get it. If it is worth more to you than the next person, then maybe you will get it. I am going to stop tossing out figures, as at best, that is just the value the market places on the bike. It could easily be worth a LOT more to you, or a lot less.

Realize if you really want a vintage touring bike, and its your size, and its close by, waiting to find that elusive great deal can take a lot of time and a lot of work. Only you can decide what this effort is worth to you.

Myself, I enjoy looking for bikes, so its no big deal if I have to drive a couple of hours one way, and maybe get a deal, and maybe not. To the average person out there, they would not put that effort into it. I count the time as "entertainment".

In the end, the difference between a great deal and a bad deal can be a whopping $100…..

Looking at hairnet's bike I have to concur; seat stay welds do appear to be the weakest
link on '80s Raleighs. Knowing this*, I've taken the preventive measure of clamping the stays
to the seat post with a hose clamp buffered by a strip inner tube. I love my old Raleigh, but
I love my 'Vega more. As for prices, all things come to he who waits. Estate sales, garage sales,
and even CL occasionally have truly classic bikes that go for a pittance because the seller's a
noncyclist without a clue to the true value of the bike. You'd call me a liar if I told you what
I paid for the bikes I have.

*from experience

Looks to be 21"

I ride 21/54. I'm used to seeing an inch or so between the top and down tubes. When I got my Voyageur- that space on the head tube was less than an inch- I thought this must be a 19" frame or something... no- the angles on the "touring" frames make that distance on the head tube much smaller.

I hoping to try one of these out tomorrow. Price is a little steep but we'll see.

Won't hurt, but I seriously doubt that will help prevent an imminent fracture of the joint as shown in the photo in post #8 . For a second opinion, ask any welder or framebuilder.

I'm sure you're right, but it's comforting that, at least, my rear wheel may
not twist out from under me if the stay snaps. I hope that it may possibly
prolong the onset of metal fatigue.