mounting bottle cage on PX10, without scratching the hell out of the down tube
 

Hi all,
I have an old 70s bottle cage that came with the bike (pug Px10). The bottle cage has the holes for braze on mounting, but since the bike has no braze ons, the owner used two campy brake cable clamps. The problem is that the base of the bottle cage moves and scratches and chips off the paint. There must be a better way. I may have to just teflon tape wrap the bad areas and mount with some better clamps. Vintage bottle cages are ridiculously expensive.

Pb

There were specific water bottle cage clamps that mount it securely. You could always wrap tape under the clamps, but that looks bozo to me. Some anal types run electrical tape to the underside of the cage and clamps then trim to the edge with an xacto knife so the metal doesn't touch the paint...

Velo-Orange has some, but there are better ones.

I use automotive clear stone gaurd tape on the surface where the cage contacts the frame tube (tape applied to the cage side) and I also line the mounting clamps with it.

It's quite sticky and incredibly strong and pliable and easy to trim to whatever shape you need.

.

Beyond that, look for a TA criterium cage, as it uses a single clamp or an American Classic cage which uses a different band design that is thin and is easy on the tubes.

Back in the day, you used to be able to find stainless ones. If you're persistent enough maybe you can find some on Ebay. I don't know that anyone is still making them, but maybe.

There's also the option of a handlebar mount.

I had an American Classic cage/clamp tied to my old Moto & even w/ tape wrapped around, it still scratched the paint on the underside. I did use electrical tape that made the clamp very tight fitting. As ^^ said, maybe the Clear Stone auto guard tape would be a better option. OTT...It did the job.

Actually the water cage for the PX-10 should be mounted on the handlebars. At least that's what my LBS told/sold me. I believe it came from REI, because the brand is "Novarra". Here's one from King:

http://www.nordicgroup.us/cageboss/#...set_Stem_Mount

Can't seem to find a pic of the one I wanted.

There's always this one. Might wanna strip the black if it bugs you (or just make sure there's ALWAYS a bottle in it ;) )

http://www.rei.com/product/779719/mi...e-holder-bh-60

I just got into the bar mounted bottle trip a couple of months ago and it's really the best thing since sliced bread.

Really? I was taking my ref from pics like this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7448869@N03/4149915787/

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=254737

Well he's obviously doing it wrong ;)

Use these?

http://www.jensonusa.com/Elite-Vip-Universal-Cage-Mount

Fast Eddie didn't care if he ruined the paint job on his PugMasi! I sure do though!!!

I have long used the tape method of FORDSVTPARTS, only my tape is called "weatherstripping tape".

Electrical tape gets gummy and black rubber can leach a dark tint deep into lighter-colored paints.

Teflon tape is very slippery.

Cloth tape can retain moisture, especially after getting dirty, which makes the cloth more hygroscopic (moisture-retaining).

Peugeot paint was very durable and impervious until the mid-1970's, but less so after that.

Find a permanent place for the bottle and then any damaged paint will never be exposed to the light of day.
I always slide the cage down to where the bottle almost touches the chain on the big ring, which also happens to be well below the downtube decals in almost every case. The bottle is still quite easy to reach.

Zefal makes plastic clamp-on mounting bosses for bottle cages, shown here (X2):
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8146/7...e62d698f_b.jpg

I saw that one the other day. Not bad. I would rather have a sexy chrome wrap though, less plastic the better.

Pb

Yes, electrical tape sucks. I will look into it some more. BTW nice upgrade on the PX10 you have there. Not sure about the quill, but the rest looks cool.

Pb

Forget the water bottle cage and buy a hydration pack.

He'll never achieve anything like that!

Velo-Orange, but they're out of stock. I got better ones from my LBS (once I got them to order them!)

http://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...age-clamp.html

Paint the insides of the clamps and the bottom of the cage rails with Plasti-dip.

Works great, it's flexible and doesn't trap moisture against the frame. I line the front derailleur clamp with thin coat as well.

I still see clamps ocassionally on ebay- search "vintage bikes and parts"-

I have a '67 pX10 I've had since '87- as the clamps got a few bits of rust through the years and to "modernize" the lines a bit- I simply painted mine with anno blu paint- on my blue bicycle, you have to look closely to even see they are there.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=254766

I've gotten a virtually identical clamp from my LBS except the ones I get are not pre-curved and with less fancy hardware.

I have a donor seat tube from an old trashed Univega that I use to pre-bend those so I don't have to risk scratching the paint on my good bikes doing it.

:thumb: this is what I do. Works. Let it dry very thoroughly before mounting hardware, though. I give it two days.

I had no trouble finding a pic of something I wanted.

+1 To handlebar mount.

i also found it useful to use two sets of screws in installing a cage clamp to the frame. the first set is much longer than needed and allows you to easily widen the clamp and then clamp it down to the frame. after using both long screws, replace them, one by one, with properly fitting screws. this is so much easier on you and the frame when installing a perfectly fitting cage clamp for the first time.

also, i bought my cheap clamps from loosescrews.com.

I just have to ask.. Is there something wrong using a strip of old inner tube under clamp? This is very common way to protect paint around here and it doesn't leave any goo on frame like electrical tape. I was just wondering if there is some problem with that we Finns don't get.. ;)