Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
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Here's mine. I got it new and just sold it a few weeks ago. I think the new owner is going to have as much fun on it as we did.

Brent

Brent
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#407
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
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Last edited by IknowURider; 12-10-12 at 01:08 PM.
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Greetings Comrades;
This thread has given me the itch to build one of these bikes, but I'm a bit confused about something. Would you use the same size frame you would ride in an un-converted mountain bike? Or, would you use a bigger or smaller frame? Road bike frames are normally sized differently, so I would think that you would have to take that into account before you put drops on a mountain bike.
Thanks
This thread has given me the itch to build one of these bikes, but I'm a bit confused about something. Would you use the same size frame you would ride in an un-converted mountain bike? Or, would you use a bigger or smaller frame? Road bike frames are normally sized differently, so I would think that you would have to take that into account before you put drops on a mountain bike.
Thanks
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As long as you stick with a top tube that's close to the length you're used to riding, you can make it work. The biggest hurdle you'll face when converting a mountain bike to drops is the sometimes short head tube.
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Just a few shots of my `1988 Fisher Procaliber, which you have seen before in SS mode but now with a new transmission in in pathbomber mode.









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For some reason I like the "loud" color bikes - that looks fantastic.
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1984 Gitane Tour de France; 1968 Peugeot PL8; 1982 Nishiki Marina 12; 1984 Peugeot PSV; 1993 Trek 950 mtb; 1983 Vitus 979; Colnago Super, mid-80's Bianchi Veloce, 1984 or 85 Vitus 979
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You really need a zero offset post! You're like me.. tall and need the saddle far forward. I only used zero offset except on the fixed gear because it has shorter cranks.
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#418
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sprayman, i'd say use the biggest mtb you can stand over. don't worry about the top tube too much, if the saddle is at the same height as the bars you can reach much farther
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Greetings Comrades;
This thread has given me the itch to build one of these bikes, but I'm a bit confused about something. Would you use the same size frame you would ride in an un-converted mountain bike? Or, would you use a bigger or smaller frame? Road bike frames are normally sized differently, so I would think that you would have to take that into account before you put drops on a mountain bike.
Thanks
This thread has given me the itch to build one of these bikes, but I'm a bit confused about something. Would you use the same size frame you would ride in an un-converted mountain bike? Or, would you use a bigger or smaller frame? Road bike frames are normally sized differently, so I would think that you would have to take that into account before you put drops on a mountain bike.
Thanks
As others have said, focus more on the top tube length.
If you're planning on doing a conversion for a bike that won't see a lot of offroad, then you can probably go with a size up from your normal mtb size. But if you plan on doing off roading too, you might want to go with something with more stand over clearance
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Agreed. I'm one of those guys with enhanced legs. I have nosetbacks on most of my bikes. Now that I know I like the build, I'll get one in 26.8. BTW, the Origin 8 posts are pretty good.
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You are an astute Birder, my friend. These birds have the right idea - spend the winter on a golf course in Scottsdale. The Valley has many ponds, lakes, and canals; each it's own micro ecosystem. On the cancel gravel grinder across the neighboring reservation, which has a great deal of water and good habitat, I have seen 30 species. U
#422
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I too use a zero set back for my mtb. It's that 70* seat tube. Normally I have the saddle all the way back.
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RFC it look like you could just get a shorter stem (i know that one matches perfectly) and then not need your saddle so far forward... or is it more about where your legs sit over the pedals?
I'm still dialing in the fit of my drop bar mtb.. i took it on a 12 mile test ride and by the end i really felt like my saddle was too far back. The seat tube on my univega is a little more slack than on my 1986 Diamondback... my DB fits me pretty much perfectly so I compare all of my new bikes to it. Since it's a lil more slack I suppose it makes sense that I would need the saddle slightly more forward
Fit is pretty complicated... I don't know if I managed to somehow get a perfect fit by accident on my DB or if I just got used to it and now that's what I prefer
I'm still dialing in the fit of my drop bar mtb.. i took it on a 12 mile test ride and by the end i really felt like my saddle was too far back. The seat tube on my univega is a little more slack than on my 1986 Diamondback... my DB fits me pretty much perfectly so I compare all of my new bikes to it. Since it's a lil more slack I suppose it makes sense that I would need the saddle slightly more forward
Fit is pretty complicated... I don't know if I managed to somehow get a perfect fit by accident on my DB or if I just got used to it and now that's what I prefer
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the toptube length is almost irrelevant. if your saddle is wayyyy up high cause you bought a bike with a toptube length that sounds good, you're gonna be reaching out and down. the reach will be greater than if you have the saddle lower. so if you like numb hands and a sore back by all means get a tiny mtb with a super long seatpost
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