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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 12-12-12, 09:53 PM
  #426  
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And yes, that's 700 wheels on a mountain bike. It worked in theory, but the bottom bracket height made it feel lopsided and top heavy. Too spooky to ride very long. Oh well, can't say I didn't try, lol.,,,,BD
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Old 12-12-12, 09:55 PM
  #427  
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Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
Unless it's a Bridgestone. I had an MB-5 with a top tube so long it was ridiculous, then it had a 130mm stem on it. I was like superman on that thing, and I'm not small by any means.,,,,BD

my 1989 diamondback apex has a pretty long top tube as well, and also came with a crazy long stem. I really didn't like it, until i put a trekking bar on it. now it's great and has a very wide range or reach.. from short reach to super long. this is especially appreciated since the bike is a single speed
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Old 12-12-12, 10:00 PM
  #428  
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Secret weapon against long top tubes: 40mm forward extension, tall (like technomic height) stem.

http://sunlitecycling.com/product_detail.php?short_code=TCO+Piston+2-Bolt+Clamp&cl1=STEMS
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Old 12-12-12, 10:11 PM
  #429  
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Originally Posted by Creme Brulee View Post
sprayman, i'd say use the biggest mtb you can stand over. don't worry about the top tube too much, if the saddle is at the same height as the bars you can reach much farther
Good advice. I guess if it doesn't work out, I can always put the regular bars back on it and keep it as a mountain bike. Poor me.

Thanks
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Old 12-12-12, 10:16 PM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by frantik View Post
thing is with MTBs, many of them have a higher bottom bracket, so the standover height for a given seat tube length will tend to be higher on a mtb vs a road bike. I can ride a 58cm road bike, but my tallest mtb has 55cm seat tube, and even less stand over.

As others have said, focus more on the top tube length.

If you're planning on doing a conversion for a bike that won't see a lot of offroad, then you can probably go with a size up from your normal mtb size. But if you plan on doing off roading too, you might want to go with something with more stand over clearance
More good advice. Thanks to you, too. It seems like the general consensus is to basically stick with what already works.
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Old 12-12-12, 10:21 PM
  #431  
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Originally Posted by striknein View Post
As long as you stick with a top tube that's close to the length you're used to riding, you can make it work. The biggest hurdle you'll face when converting a mountain bike to drops is the sometimes short head tube.

And thanks to you, too. I love this forum! I can always come here for good, quick answers to my questions.

I think I'll just scrounge around for an old hard tail and tinker with it. If the drop bar conversion doesn't work out, so what?

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Old 12-12-12, 11:03 PM
  #432  
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Originally Posted by RFC View Post
Great bikes, guys, and I love this thread.

I just rebuilt my 88 Fisher Procaliber from an SS back into a geared bike with a triple.

Gearing on these conversions is a bit of a trick, especially when working with the original 6-speed Uniglide hub. I wanted more flatlandish gears, so I mixed a couple of Uniglide cassettes and went from a 12-26 to a 13-15-16-17-19-22 with a 46-34-24 Deore XT crankset. This allows me to ride the entire cassette in the big and middle rings and gives me gear inches as follows:

46 34 24
13 91.1 67.3 47.5

15 79.0 58.4 41.2

16 74.0 54.7 38.6

17 69.7 51.5 36.4

19 62.3 46.1 32.5

22 53.8 39.8 28.1
Similar to what I did with my Stumpy. 48/38/28 rings; I transplanted a 7 speed body and used a 13-23 cassette. It's a very wide range for the way I use the bike, but with small jumps. Quite versatile.
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Old 12-13-12, 01:42 AM
  #433  
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Originally Posted by frantik View Post
RFC it look like you could just get a shorter stem (i know that one matches perfectly) and then not need your saddle so far forward... or is it more about where your legs sit over the pedals?

I'm still dialing in the fit of my drop bar mtb.. i took it on a 12 mile test ride and by the end i really felt like my saddle was too far back. The seat tube on my univega is a little more slack than on my 1986 Diamondback... my DB fits me pretty much perfectly so I compare all of my new bikes to it. Since it's a lil more slack I suppose it makes sense that I would need the saddle slightly more forward

Fit is pretty complicated... I don't know if I managed to somehow get a perfect fit by accident on my DB or if I just got used to it and now that's what I prefer
Fit is an issue on drop bar MTB's, particularly for the long legged guys. As it is, this one is not bad at all and I did 30 on it yesterday evening. My usual road bike cockpit is 52cm from saddle nose to bars. This bike is 55 cm, but the bars are at least 2 inches higher than my road bikes, so it kind of evens out.
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Old 12-13-12, 12:20 PM
  #434  
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Originally Posted by Bikedued View Post
And yes, that's 700 wheels on a mountain bike. It worked in theory, but the bottom bracket height made it feel lopsided and top heavy. Too spooky to ride very long. Oh well, can't say I didn't try, lol.,,,,BD
Really? I'm still loving my conversion... and with the BB height no pedal strike ever!
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Old 12-13-12, 12:48 PM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by Sprayman View Post
And thanks to you, too. I love this forum! I can always come here for good, quick answers to my questions.

I think I'll just scrounge around for an old hard tail and tinker with it. If the drop bar conversion doesn't work out, so what?

Sprayman
Think rigid frame, not hard tail. Hard tail means front suspension fork, which IMHO would make it less useful as a drop bar bike. The good news is that rigid frames in general are the cheapest.
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Old 12-13-12, 01:10 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Think rigid frame, not hard tail. Hard tail means front suspension fork, which IMHO would make it less useful as a drop bar bike. The good news is that rigid frames in general are the cheapest.
As always, good advice. I do want to add that, this year at the Dirty Kanza 200, there were a number of riders using suspension forks. Also, I have seen some great deals on hardtail steel Stumpjumpers with suspension forks. Hmm, this is a niche I haven't filled, and they are so few these days.
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Old 12-13-12, 09:53 PM
  #437  
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Think rigid frame, not hard tail. Hard tail means front suspension fork, which IMHO would make it less useful as a drop bar bike. The good news is that rigid frames in general are the cheapest.
Right you are. Thank you.
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Old 12-13-12, 10:41 PM
  #438  
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Most good forks have a lockout now, so you can have both?,,,,BD
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Old 12-13-12, 11:59 PM
  #439  
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Originally Posted by RaleighSport View Post
Really? I'm still loving my conversion... and with the BB height no pedal strike ever!
Yeah, I didn't like the handling feel. It just felt, "spooky" to me, for lack of a better word. Like the bigger wheels threw off the geometry or something. Maybe I just didn't like it at the time, and would have grown to love it. Either way the bike is long gone,,,,BD
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Old 12-14-12, 02:48 AM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by theblackbullet View Post
awaiting bartape and a new tensioner before being sscx race ready
aaaaaaaaand being raced



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Old 12-14-12, 03:09 AM
  #441  
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Nice pics o hope the race went well. I hope my drop bar SS will turn out as nice as yours.
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Old 12-14-12, 12:49 PM
  #442  
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Apparently we have very different styles.. not too huge of gaps here.

(pics from before a proper fitting)
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Old 12-14-12, 02:34 PM
  #443  
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Finally got around to the conversion on the 1988 Schwinn Cimmaron. I kept the fat tires, in tribute to some of the other great ones on this thread.



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Old 12-14-12, 02:37 PM
  #444  
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Looks great. Which fat tires are those, and how do you like them?
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Old 12-14-12, 02:47 PM
  #445  
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that green schwinn is a winner.

blackbullet, are you allowed to check people in those races? seems like you'd have a nice advantage were that the case.
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Old 12-14-12, 02:52 PM
  #446  
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bill great work
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Old 12-14-12, 03:09 PM
  #447  
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Originally Posted by wrk101 View Post
Finally got around to the conversion on the 1988 Schwinn Cimmaron. I kept the fat tires, in tribute to some of the other great ones on this thread.
Looks great! Welcome to the (green) Cimarron drop-bar club!
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Old 12-14-12, 05:12 PM
  #448  
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Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
Looks great. Which fat tires are those, and how do you like them?
I just finished it at 4PM. Gave it the typical test ride around the block, then off in the car to SC. The tires are Kendas, 26 x 1.95, unsure of the model. They came with the bike. If I was going to buy tires, I probably would have gone with my standard 1.25s.

Bike as acquired at a garage sale earlier this fall.




What really set it apart was the quad ring crankset (homemade). Front RD had all the limit screws removed.



Somewhat surprising to me is how much of the original stuff I kept: the Deore triple (dumped the extra ring), RD, stem, seat post, wheels, cassette, brake calipers. FD was trashed, so pulled one out of the bin, added the drops, Suntour barcons, bartape, chain, cables, housings, saddle and vintage Deore pedals from the bin. Lots of frame touch up and some rust rehab.

Last edited by wrk101; 12-14-12 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 12-14-12, 05:21 PM
  #449  
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Looks like you really rescued that bike. Good job!
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Old 12-14-12, 05:41 PM
  #450  
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Originally Posted by due ruote View Post
Looks great. Which fat tires are those, and how do you like them?
they look a lot like Kenda K838 ... i have them on two of my bikes. nice smooth, cushy ride, but kinda heavy and i feel they could be more supple. for the price point through they are great. EXCELLENT puncture protection; I've only gotten one flat on these babys, EVER

BTW bill those chainrings look pretty nice for Deore level.. my 88 Univega came with the same deore derailleurs but the chainrings were a step down.. those look like Dura Ace/600/XT level rings

edit: DAT QUAD CRANK

Last edited by frantik; 12-14-12 at 05:45 PM.
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