Originally Posted by hankaye

SpEd, Howdy;

Ok, see that now. Mine is thread-less to begin with so, reckon I'll
need to work out a solution for it.
Thanks for the responce.

hank

Originally Posted by Mr. Creosote

Miele Man - Nice job with your bike. I like what you did with it. I don't think its a Summit brand bike though. Someone just stuck on a sticker from Summit Racing, https://www.summitracing.com/

Originally Posted by Turbort88

I’ve wanted to contribute to this thread for a while and have finally built a bike worthy to post. I purchased this Schwinn Cimarron with all of the original components but without the wheels. Here’s the build list.

Frame: 86’ Schwinn Cimarron
Derailleurs/Brakes: XT M730
Crankset: Sugino XD2
Shifters: Rivendell Silver friction bar ends
Cassette: 8 speed Sram
Wheelset: XT 780 hubs with Mavic XM 719 rims
Tires: Compass Cycles Rat Trap Pass 26x2.35 standard casing
Stem: Nitto Dirt Drop 80mm 26.0 clamp
Handlebar: Soma Portola 56cm
Brake levers: Dia Compe Gran Compe non aero
Setpost: Suntour XC
Saddle: Brooks B17

Bike is still in the shakedown mode but on my past two commutes to work (I’ve since added a rear rack) I’ve bested my previous fastest avg speed set on my Rivendell Sam Hillborne.

Originally Posted by Miele Man

Here's my lasted MTB/Dropbar Frankenbike.

Plus, there's now a new use for those old Suicide Brake Levers.

The SUMMIT MTB bicycle was given to me because the shifters were busted, the rear derailler cable housing stop was missing and the crank barely turned.

I used a barrel adjuster from a rear derailler and clamped the adjuster with a hose clamp to the chainstay so that the adjuster acts as the cable housing stop.

I didn't want the expense of buying eith barend shifters or integrated brake lever shifters for the dropbar I wanted to use. The dropbar came off another old bike and it had brake levers with the auxiliary suicide levers. Inspiration struck!

I removed the suicide levers and file a flat on opposite sides of the stb sticking out from the brake lever body. This stud is actually the brake lever pivot. The flats were file so thatt hey accept the rectangular slot inthe sghifter innards. Once the flats were file I simply mounted the shifters onto the brake pivot stud and used the original suicide lever retaining bolt to keep the shifter in place. The shifter cable feeds into shifter cable housing that is tightly taped to the dropbar and then covered with bar tape.

The shifter is very easy to use with a thum or finger and shifts very well.

Here are some images.

Bike.

! SUMMIT MTB 2 Dropbar 01 by Miele Man, on Flickr

! SUMMIT MTB 2 Dropbar 02 by Miele Man, on Flickr

! SUMMIT MTB 2 Dropbar 03 by Miele Man, on Flickr

The Brake Body mounted rear shifter.

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 01 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 02 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 03 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter 04 by Miele Man, on Flickr

The Shifter in use.

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter Operation 01 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter Operation 02 by Miele Man, on Flickr

Brake Lever Mounted Shifter Operation 03 by Miele Man, on Flickr

So, now it's possible to convert an MTB to a dropbar bicycle even if you don't have barend or integrated brake/shifters. Plus it's a great use for those old suicide brake levers.

Cheers

Originally Posted by finnyct90

I rescued this one from the transfer station metal dumpster.
Except for the tires, everything has come from the parts collection.
I went with the old 7 speed, RSX bifters that I have been saving for a fun project.
All I need to finish it is the proper front derailleur. The IRD compact triple derailleur works great with bifters and MTB triple rings.
Now to search the inter web for a nice vintage Trek saddle, as this one appears to have been a chew toy.

Originally Posted by Bikedued

I know not vintage. Just "finished" it about a half hour ago though. I missed the 29er I traded off for the Sojourn frame, so I built another.,,,,BD

Originally Posted by cs1

When you do the drop bar conversions are you sizing up or down, ie using a larger or smaller frame? A drop bar is going to add some distance to the cockpit compared to a flat bar.

Originally Posted by cs1

When you do the drop bar conversions are you sizing up or down, ie using a larger or smaller frame? A drop bar is going to add some distance to the cockpit compared to a flat bar.

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

Typically its a smaller frame compared to a road bike. This is especially true with many 80s/early 90s MTBs due to the top tube being very long in relation to the seat tube.

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

Typically its a smaller frame compared to a road bike. This is especially true with many 80s/early 90s MTBs due to the top tube being very long in relation to the seat tube.

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

Typically its a smaller frame compared to a road bike. This is especially true with many 80s/early 90s MTBs due to the top tube being very long in relation to the seat tube.

Originally Posted by Bikedued

Okay I give up. I tried everything after getting a 9 speed chain, even drilling the leverage point further back on the derailleur arm to change the cable pull to match the road shifter. Shimano just can't make things work together to meld two styles of bikes, or to build a beefed up touring bike with mountain parts. I refuse to use bar end shifters on a bike for mostly off road use, so it's going back to straight bars, I had a touring derailleur that would have probably worked, top pull and all, but of course it was either way too low or way too high, because of the water bottle boss. I admit defeat, as the parts were simply not made to work together. The touring road derailleur worked on the Raleigh Sojourn, since the bottle boss was in a different location. It wasn't perfect, but it was workable if you were patient about the slightly slow shifting into low. It shifted WAY better than this, at any rate. I'm also not going to give up a bottle mount on a mountain bike. too critical to be hydrated in that application.

The Trek 800 with bar ends is fine, since it's mainly on road use with occasional dirt trail use. On a full off road bike, I'd rather have it shift quickly and correctly, and not end up in with a bar end shifter in my leg if I crash. I will get a nice stem and a set of 31.8 riser bars, and switch it back. Due to the high popularity of disc road bikes now, I could probably even get a decent price or trade on some off road disc calipers. What I have now are BB7 road disc calipers.

Originally Posted by Bicycle Addict

I would go either Sora or 105, both should work fine in the intended riding application?