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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 06-12-19, 06:49 AM
  #6451  
Cl904
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Now with Shimano 600ex levers and suntour barcons.
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Old 06-12-19, 09:59 AM
  #6452  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
Question for you all--I want to try my '94 stumpjumper as a drop bar, but I can't get the bars high enough while keeping the reach manageable.

what do you think about putting a new aftermarket fork in (1'' threadless, 260mm steerer) and using spacers to get the stem mounted high on the steerer?

also, any recommendations on a fork that would work?
Is the stock fork threadless, or are you using an adapter?
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Old 06-12-19, 10:01 AM
  #6453  
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stock is 1" threadless!

also, the Dimension forks I'm looking at have 26 cm steerer, which seems like it would give me about 5cm of additional rise over what I've got now. Maybe something with even longer steerer might be available?

Last edited by belacqua; 06-12-19 at 10:04 AM.
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Old 06-12-19, 10:06 AM
  #6454  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
stock is 1" threadless!

also, the Dimension forks I'm looking at have 26 cm steerer, which seems like it would give me about 5cm of additional rise over what I've got now. Maybe something with even longer steerer might be available?
Could you have the original fork steerer threaded and use a quill stem?
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Old 06-12-19, 10:28 AM
  #6455  
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I hadn't thought of this--thanks for the idea. My initial thought is I wouldn't want to try installing a new headset in my garage if I could avoid it, and the new threadless forks run about $80, so it would be hard to beat the economy and simplicity of swapping.
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Old 06-12-19, 10:32 AM
  #6456  
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but here's the other question I'm grappling with today--what do I really stand to gain by putting drops on this rig--favorite mtb in my small collection--when I already have bar ends.

Not a rhetorical question. I am hoping to use the thing for 5+ hour gravel rides.
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Old 06-12-19, 11:43 AM
  #6457  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
I hadn't thought of this--thanks for the idea. My initial thought is I wouldn't want to try installing a new headset in my garage if I could avoid it, and the new threadless forks run about $80, so it would be hard to beat the economy and simplicity of swapping.
You would have to confirm that the Inner diameter of the steerer is correct but I dont think you would need a new head set. If you have the longer steerer is threaded you could use a spacer under a 1" nut and lock ring.
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Old 06-12-19, 01:27 PM
  #6458  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
stock is 1" threadless!


Thank you for sharing this information. I bet I'm not the only one who learned from this.

I've heard of 1" threadless but haven't seen it before. Recently I was looking at a '95 Trek 990 in my size on craigslist. Like yours, it had its original matching rigid fork (always highly desirable to me) and a stem that looked a lot like the one on your Stumpjumper. I figured someone had used a threaded-to-threadless converter and liked the "slammed" stem look. I would have wanted to put drop bars on it and would have had no idea what I was getting into. Fortunately for me, the seller was asking WAY too much for the bike, but it was fun to think about for a while.

Last edited by Squeeze; 06-12-19 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 06-12-19, 01:32 PM
  #6459  
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MTBs started using threadless and/or 1-1/8" head tubes way way way before they moved to road bikes. In the 90s it seems like it was the wild west as far as what spec you would find on any particular bike. On the same model years you might find a quill stem with an oddball diameter on one bike, but on a different make you'll find 1" threadless. It was wild.
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Old 06-12-19, 01:42 PM
  #6460  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
but here's the other question I'm grappling with today--what do I really stand to gain by putting drops on this rig--favorite mtb in my small collection--when I already have bar ends.

Not a rhetorical question. I am hoping to use the thing for 5+ hour gravel rides.
https://www.rivbike.com/products/nit...ess-stem-16252

What are thoughts on using one of those with a shim?
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Old 06-12-19, 07:59 PM
  #6461  
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Originally Posted by belacqua View Post
but here's the other question I'm grappling with today--what do I really stand to gain by putting drops on this rig--favorite mtb in my small collection--when I already have bar ends.

Not a rhetorical question. I am hoping to use the thing for 5+ hour gravel rides.
drops will give you a bunch more hand positions, which is great for those longer rides. personally i run drops higher than i would flats on these bikes, like so that the drops are about where my hands would be height-wise on flats. this gives me a more comfortable up-right position when riding on the tops of the drops, or in the hoods, and i'm still comfortable when going into the drops
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Old 06-17-19, 08:18 PM
  #6462  
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follow up on post 6414, some shots of a drop conversion in action. A freind wanted to do the new adventure cycling Arkansas high country loop. https://bikepacking.com/routes/arkan...orthwest-loop/
Since I don't own a real gravel bike, and did not want to ride 240 miles on a flat bar, took the Gary Fischer Marlin. Used my regular panniers. We did it in three days. I lived. The last day riding home was fifty miles of rain, which felt really good on the 150+ mosquito bites. Really, we counted when the swelling went down enough to see them. The other guys got about ten or so each.
  1. DISTANCE

    242 Mi.

    (389 KM)
  2. DAYS

    3-4
  3. % UNPAVED

    51%
  4. % SINGLETRACK

    0%
  5. DIFFICULTY (1-10)

    4
  6. % RIDEABLE (TIME)

    100%
  7. TOTAL ASCENT

    18,920'

    (5,767 M)
  8. HIGH POINT

    2,511'




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Old 06-20-19, 04:50 PM
  #6463  
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FYI...

How to get a Road Front Derailleur to work on a Mountain Bike frame...

The 73 mm wide MTB bottom bracket shell prevents use of some road front derailleurs as they are designed a 68 mm road BB bracket shell. This problem is most common for folks trying to use brifters (STI, Ergo Shifters, Double Tap) which work best when used as a complete system including the front derailleur.

The fix I used for this issue was to use larger clamp for the FD and fashion a shim using pieces of old inner tubes to make a shim which would push the derailleur about 3mm farther to the right. It just took a bit of patience and some contact cement...

-OR- for those who want an engineered solution

Check out this Jtek Eccentric Shim:

Jtek Eccentric Shim for Front Derailleur

Disclaimer: I have no association with Jtek but I do think this product is useful for making drop bar mountain bikes.
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