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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 09-03-21, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by frogger72
Thanks! I actually have a late 80s Miele road bike that was given to me by a neighbour with one broken aero brake lever. Since I won't be keeping it or selling it for anything more than $300 I am on the lookout for cheap alternatives and that would probably do the trick vs spending double or more on tektros.
Tektro's levers can be had for less than $30. They are pretty great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/33376781874...kAAOxy4YdTUc2e

And you can get them in long pull and short pull versions depending on the types of brakes you are using.
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Old 09-03-21, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by no67el
Beautiful. What's the front rack you are using? I like the idea of not having to attach your front bag to the handlebars--- I hate losing hand positions....
Front rack is a cheap Sunlite Gold Tec which I've strapped a Wald 137 basket to and tossed a Dark Realm 137 basket bag in. I've heard some stories of this rack failing under heavier loads, and for a while I was kicking around the idea of getting a similar Nitto rack for the peace of mind, but then I also came across stories of steel Nitto racks failing when people attached baskets and overloaded em. I think the moral of the story is that any front rack that attaches to the canti posts, no matter how shiny/expensive, should be treated gingerly and not overloaded. While touring with this bike, I try to keep my high volume-low weight items up front and put the heavier stuff in the saddlebag. If you want to put a lot of weight on the front, it'd probably be better to get a rack that attaches to eyelets near the axle.
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Old 09-03-21, 01:55 PM
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Rescued this from a dumpster and kept it over 70% original, it is now my dedicated winter rig/ errand runner. I even sold my touring bike in favor of keeping this.
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Old 09-08-21, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by pcons713
Here's my second dropbar mtb build - 1993 Trek 950. Almost all original aside from the conversion. Great handling and fit using a threaded-to-threadless stem converter. Using the MicroShift 3x7 brifters everything works well, though the FD indexing is a bit off due to the mismatch of road-mtb pull ratios. I have a barrel adjuster to make this manageable, but needing to stop before a big climb and make adjustments to use the small ring is a bit annoying. Any suggestions or tips aside from replacing the original Deore LX FD with a touring FD?

Originally Posted by fishboat
I have a '93 970 that I did a drop bar conversion on. I run Tourney 3x7 shifters into the stock top pull XT FD. The Tourney and FD match up perfectly...at least it shifts like you'd expect on any road bike with a triple. I've read here on BF that any of the DX, LX, XT series FD work well with road shifters. My only experience is with XT/Tourney combo. I'd either continue to tweak in your LX(I suspect there's a sweet spot there somewhere) or look for an XT.

Nice bike. Mine is now a dedicated touring bike and it's a wonderful ride. Did a 61 miler on it today..shakedown ride for an upcoming tour.
PCons713,
I was going trough my 970 today and had to disconnect the FD cable..which means I "lost" my perfect nice-shifting setup on the front end. It was tough getting it back(apparently I stumbled into the right setup when I first assembled it on the first try..). After futzing with it for a while with marginal success I disconnected the cable, loosened up the inline barrel adjuster to about mid-travel and started from scratch. Followed a mix of Calvin Jones/Park Tool video and RJ-Bike Guy's video..a little more tweaking & I now have good FD shifting back. Whole setup (success) seems to be particularly sensitive to the low limit screw adjustment. Determined my RD hanger was a bit out of alignment(slight DR rumble after completely setup) and fixed that..but that's a different issue. Please post back if you ever get yours adjusted in. I may be picking up another similar bike(same components) and it would be good to know where you netted out.
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Old 09-08-21, 07:51 PM
  #7180  
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Just f
Just finished converting a 1989 GT Team Avalanche that I have had for about 30 years. Test rides around the block were good. I found that I was between the middle and large chainring on the MTB triple and am trying a road triple. The 3x7 shifters are Micronew brand and seem fine.. To get the XT front derailleur to work with the shorter throw shifter I ran the cable on the opposite side of the clamping bolt, as suggested somewhere on this website.
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Old 09-09-21, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by craig_dahlke
Appreciate the kind words! I'm incredibly happy with this build....
What bars/stem are you rocking on your upright 950?
My apologies...
Some how I missed this question from post #7134 from July 10th of this thread and did not reply.
https://www.bikeforums.net/22136304-post7134.html

My powder coated 1989 or 1990 Trek 950 which was originally that same bright blue,
has upright bars, a Sunlite alloy North Road handlebar and a 1" quill stem adapter plus 8cm , 25.4 clamp stem, Origin8, I think.

A pic here on this upright bar thread.
https://www.bikeforums.net/20739318-post155.html

and here...
https://www.bikeforums.net/20630352-post139.html

Safe riding to all

Last edited by cooperryder; 09-09-21 at 09:12 AM.
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Old 09-09-21, 11:30 PM
  #7182  
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Not actually a mountain bike, but my TREK 750 hybrid drop bar conversion is pretty close, and its currently my favorite ride.
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Old 09-10-21, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by wschellen
Not actually a mountain bike, but my TREK 750 hybrid drop bar conversion is pretty close, and its currently my favorite ride.
Nice bike. Actually a 750 DB conversion may be one of the best conversion-types as it can handle larger tires and the frame is a bit lighter/more road like. I've been thinking about building up a 750 myself..one of the more versatile frames ever made, and there's lots of them around.
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Old 09-17-21, 07:33 PM
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In 2000, I was looking to do something like this to my Multitrack, but fell hard for a Kona Jake the Snake (figuratively and literally... washed out on some gravel on a test ride) so just traded it in for that. Never regretted that, but I think the trek would have been a fun bike.
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Old 09-17-21, 08:57 PM
  #7185  
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Originally Posted by pcons713
Here's my second dropbar mtb build - 1993 Trek 950. Almost all original aside from the conversion. Great handling and fit using a threaded-to-threadless stem converter. Using the MicroShift 3x7 brifters everything works well, though the FD indexing is a bit off due to the mismatch of road-mtb pull ratios. I have a barrel adjuster to make this manageable, but needing to stop before a big climb and make adjustments to use the small ring is a bit annoying. Any suggestions or tips aside from replacing the original Deore LX FD with a touring FD?

Zooming into your pic, I'd say your front derailleur is mounted too high. Try lowering it down to where you are a few millimeters of above the big gear teeth, align it parallel to the big cog, and try again. That should be a good derailleur for what you attempting.

Last edited by mechanicmatt; 09-17-21 at 09:07 PM.
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Old 09-17-21, 09:40 PM
  #7186  
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Originally Posted by pcons713
Here's my second dropbar mtb build - 1993 Trek 950. Almost all original aside from the conversion. Great handling and fit using a threaded-to-threadless stem converter. Using the MicroShift 3x7 brifters everything works well, though the FD indexing is a bit off due to the mismatch of road-mtb pull ratios. I have a barrel adjuster to make this manageable, but needing to stop before a big climb and make adjustments to use the small ring is a bit annoying. Any suggestions or tips aside from replacing the original Deore LX FD with a touring FD?
Sweet build pcons! Thanks for sharing this here. These 90's Treks make such classy drop bar conversions, especially with a modern bar/stem setup.

If you don't mind me asking, what make/model of threaded to threadless stem adapter did you use here? I am doing a really similar conversion on a 1992 Trek 7000 with a 1 1/8" threaded headset (same Deore LX groupset that will be coupled to the same 3x7 Microshift shifters on a modern bar/stem setup) but am struggling to find a 1 1/8" to 1 1/8" adapter that is tall enough (and reputable/safe enough) to allow me to use a more common 7 stem rather than a normal/shorter adapter and high-rise 35-40 stem (like I had to do on an '89 Hardrock build I did last year) to achieve a similar stack height and bar position. Your adapter extension and stem setup is what I am looking for as well, so any and all information you can provide here would be much appreciated!

Last edited by EB_AZ; 09-17-21 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 09-18-21, 10:02 AM
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thorn fork, big apples, xtr stuff.

Last edited by tombc; 09-18-21 at 11:07 AM. Reason: edit: better pic
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Old 09-22-21, 12:12 PM
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Bought this bike from a local shop 2.5 years ago. They had converted it to drop bars but there were many things I wanted to change, mostly cosmetic, some functional. I'm finally done with my modifications. It's a 1991 Bianchi Ibex. Took it on my first overnight trip a couple weeks ago and I love it.

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Old 09-27-21, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bicyclepost
Bought this bike from a local shop 2.5 years ago. They had converted it to drop bars but there were many things I wanted to change, mostly cosmetic, some functional. I'm finally done with my modifications. It's a 1991 Bianchi Ibex. Took it on my first overnight trip a couple weeks ago and I love it.
Looks great! Are those tires Panaracer Paselas? I'd love to hear a report on how they do. I've got 2.1" Maxxis DTHs on my '84 Stumpjumper Sport & I like them a lot, but I'm thinking I could go a little narrower & not miss anything. They handle street, path, & single track just fine.
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Old 09-28-21, 10:09 AM
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Before and after....







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Old 09-28-21, 11:17 AM
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Lord loves a purple bike.
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Old 09-28-21, 02:03 PM
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Did you paint the Salsa and then put Voodoo stickers on it?
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Old 09-28-21, 04:50 PM
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Salsa Voodoo? lol
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Old 09-28-21, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by beicster
Did you paint the Salsa and then put Voodoo stickers on it?
It was never a Salsa. Those were leftover decals from a resto-mod I started and traded off before I finished it. It is not a Voodoo either. I couldn't find replacement decals for what it was and these looked cool so I used these. It's a Performance M103 frame made of True Temper OX Ultra 2 and the fork is a Tange bi-plane from a 1983 Specialized StumpJumper.


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Old 09-29-21, 06:48 AM
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Could these bikes be used in a gravel bike race or do they have specific rules as to what makes a gravel bike?
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Old 09-29-21, 07:22 AM
  #7196  
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Originally Posted by gthomson
Could these bikes be used in a gravel bike race or do they have specific rules as to what makes a gravel bike?
No race that I have been in or read about has limited the style of bicycle. The only rule has been you must pedal fully under your own power- so no e-assist.

There are often times separate podium categories for singlespeed and fatbike, which helps show just how varied the bikes used can be.
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Old 10-04-21, 01:56 AM
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Originally Posted by mechanicmatt
Zooming into your pic, I'd say your front derailleur is mounted too high. Try lowering it down to where you are a few millimeters of above the big gear teeth, align it parallel to the big cog, and try again. That should be a good derailleur for what you attempting.
Originally Posted by fishboat
PCons713,
I was going trough my 970 today and had to disconnect the FD cable..which means I "lost" my perfect nice-shifting setup on the front end. It was tough getting it back(apparently I stumbled into the right setup when I first assembled it on the first try..). After futzing with it for a while with marginal success I disconnected the cable, loosened up the inline barrel adjuster to about mid-travel and started from scratch. Followed a mix of Calvin Jones/Park Tool video and RJ-Bike Guy's video..a little more tweaking & I now have good FD shifting back. Whole setup (success) seems to be particularly sensitive to the low limit screw adjustment. Determined my RD hanger was a bit out of alignment(slight DR rumble after completely setup) and fixed that..but that's a different issue. Please post back if you ever get yours adjusted in. I may be picking up another similar bike(same components) and it would be good to know where you netted out.
Yes, it has required a bit of adjusting and seems like it will work out well. Still not 100% but it is getting there, and a little touch to the barrel adjuster mid-ride is ok for now.

Originally Posted by EB_AZ
Sweet build pcons! Thanks for sharing this here. These 90's Treks make such classy drop bar conversions, especially with a modern bar/stem setup.

If you don't mind me asking, what make/model of threaded to threadless stem adapter did you use here? I am doing a really similar conversion on a 1992 Trek 7000 with a 1 1/8" threaded headset (same Deore LX groupset that will be coupled to the same 3x7 Microshift shifters on a modern bar/stem setup) but am struggling to find a 1 1/8" to 1 1/8" adapter that is tall enough (and reputable/safe enough) to allow me to use a more common 7 stem rather than a normal/shorter adapter and high-rise 35-40 stem (like I had to do on an '89 Hardrock build I did last year) to achieve a similar stack height and bar position. Your adapter extension and stem setup is what I am looking for as well, so any and all information you can provide here would be much appreciated!
I'm using a no-name stem adapter which I bought a while ago, so I don't know which website. I can't recall how tall this one is but I know its either 160 or 180mm. In this photo it isn't quite extended to the max height, so I can still bring the tops level with the saddle if needed. Maybe I'm wrong, but I haven't heard of many quill stem failures on the fork insert part so I'm not very concerned about the reputability. I think most fail near the handlebar clamp.


Last edited by pcons713; 10-04-21 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 10-04-21, 07:53 AM
  #7198  
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Originally Posted by pcons713
Yes, it has required a bit of adjusting and seems like it will work out well. Still not 100% but it is getting there, and a little touch to the barrel adjuster mid-ride is ok for now.
To me your front derailleur is either a bit high or twisted, but maybe it's just the picture angle. Here are some pics that I tried to take straight on to help from a similar vintage derailleur that if have. I took pics from all three gears so you can compare spacing. I also took a pic from above, sometimes with these old derailleurs I pinch the front end slightly, you can see it in the last picture. It seems to help. The big difference though is that I'm using a friction front shifter which lets me micro adjust my shifts.




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Old 10-06-21, 06:05 PM
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UPDATE:



The Super Maxy non-drive arm had a crack (along with a variety of other factors) made fitting a proper bottom bracket difficult. I went with a SunXCD and had them install a new headset as well. Definitely need new brake pads. Plenty of little things need to be fine-tuned, but it's a bike! I can't wait to get on some good off-road terrain to really try this thing out!
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Old 10-06-21, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Rooney
The Super Maxy non-drive arm had a crack (along with a variety of other factors) made fitting a proper bottom bracket difficult. I went with a SunXCD and had them install a new headset as well. Definitely need new brake pads. Plenty of little things need to be fine-tuned, but it's a bike! I can't wait to get on some good off-road terrain to really try this thing out!
Love those SunTour 3 pulley derailers! Which one is it? I can't quite tell from the pic.
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