Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
#1302
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky
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Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, 1983 Specialized Stumpjumper
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Yeah I had to cold set the frame. String is used for alignment. It was a pretty nerve racking, but I think it went well. The original spacing was 126mm, I set it to 132mm. Now I have to find out what is up with the front wheel being not centered in the fork... I know it is not the wheel dish as I have turned the wheel around and the problem is the same on the same side. I think I can get the build done buy tomorrow.
#1304
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#1305
one life on two wheels
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The more I look at that string, the more I like that color with the grey frame and creme tires. If that was my bike, I'd definitely go with that color pink for the bar wrap. Pink & grey is a great color combo. Or maybe pink cable housings for a more understated pop of color.
Just thinking out loud here don't mind me...
Just thinking out loud here don't mind me...
#1308
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, 1983 Specialized Stumpjumper
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Well guys, that was my whole plan. I just want people to look at this bike and start dancing.
#1309
Chainstay Brake Mafia
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Yeah I had to cold set the frame. String is used for alignment. It was a pretty nerve racking, but I think it went well. The original spacing was 126mm, I set it to 132mm. Now I have to find out what is up with the front wheel being not centered in the fork... I know it is not the wheel dish as I have turned the wheel around and the problem is the same on the same side. I think I can get the build done buy tomorrow.
#1310
Rides Majestic
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Bikes: 1983 Univega Gran Turismo, 1970 Schwinn Super Sport, 2001 Univega Modo Vincere, Self-Built Nashbar Touring, 1974 Peugeot U08, 1974 Atala Grand Prix, 1986 Ross Mt. Hood, 80's Maruishi MT-18
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Yeah I had to cold set the frame. String is used for alignment. It was a pretty nerve racking, but I think it went well. The original spacing was 126mm, I set it to 132mm. Now I have to find out what is up with the front wheel being not centered in the fork... I know it is not the wheel dish as I have turned the wheel around and the problem is the same on the same side. I think I can get the build done buy tomorrow.
Btw: the bike looks sweet. What are those tires?
Last edited by likebike23; 03-20-13 at 11:38 AM. Reason: adding more
#1311
Jack of all trades
C'mon WNG, your bike definitely points to the cleaner side on the Frankenmeter, compared to some builds we've seen, your Specialized is a solid goodie!
Hey anixi, do it man... let's see some pics of your Rincon conversion, any bike sportin' some Campy instantly has some cred with me! I'm always game to check out a custom build, whether it's been massaged or strong-armed, I love seeing how other people get creative!
Hey anixi, do it man... let's see some pics of your Rincon conversion, any bike sportin' some Campy instantly has some cred with me! I'm always game to check out a custom build, whether it's been massaged or strong-armed, I love seeing how other people get creative!
#1312
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Louisville, Ky
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Bikes: Surly Cross-Check, 1983 Specialized Stumpjumper
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They are both NOS Panaracer Magic XC Smoke and Dart. Not sure how long I will rock them as they are 15ish years old, maybe older

When this happens to me, it's usually the dropouts in the fork not being parallel. Put the wheel in with the quick release loose. Slowly close the quick release and observe the fork ends. Usually one fork end will line up parallel with the locknut and the other will not just as the quick release clamps down. If this is the case, you can put a 12" adjustable on the misaligned fork end and bend it the way it needs to go. Not very precise, but if you're careful and deliberate, it works.
Btw: the bike looks sweet. What are those tires?
Btw: the bike looks sweet. What are those tires?
#1313
Jack of all trades
Campy 8X3 brifters, Serfas Drifters tires, Mirage triple f/r derailleurs, rando bars, Phil Wood 6-speed freewheel wheelset, LX V-brakes.
What do you all think? Frankenbike deluxe?
#1314
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I have to ask, why the flex noodle with the Travel Agent? Why not run the housing straight into the Travel Agent and hook it right into the v-brake? All the extra cable and flex is going to diminish your braking potential. Here are a couple pics of my '93 Barracuda, I didn't want to give up my 7 speed XT pods but I wanted to make use of some spare Avid v-brake calipers. The brakes work perfectly!
#1315
Jack of all trades
Yeah anixi, seriously deluxe Frankenbike... compared to the stock parts on a Rincon, you stoked out this build in a huge way! You went way beyond a piece of Campy bike jewelry, full Campy drivetrain is a really nice touch!
I have to ask, why the flex noodle with the Travel Agent? Why not run the housing straight into the Travel Agent and hook it right into the v-brake? All the extra cable and flex is going to diminish your braking potential. Here are a couple pics of my '93 Barracuda, I didn't want to give up my 7 speed XT pods but I wanted to make use of some spare Avid v-brake calipers. The brakes work perfectly!


I have to ask, why the flex noodle with the Travel Agent? Why not run the housing straight into the Travel Agent and hook it right into the v-brake? All the extra cable and flex is going to diminish your braking potential. Here are a couple pics of my '93 Barracuda, I didn't want to give up my 7 speed XT pods but I wanted to make use of some spare Avid v-brake calipers. The brakes work perfectly!
#1316
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Bikes: Specialized Sequoia Elite/Motobecane Fantom Cross Team Ti/'85 Trek 520
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i was going to say the same thing that you didn't need the noodle when you use travel agents. I like the bike otherwise. I think that pretty much all of the drop bar conversions unless done up on a really high end frame are going to weigh in at the high twenties/low thirties.
I just hope that I find a nice rigid MTB frame one of these days and not just a Hard Rock but something nicer.
I just hope that I find a nice rigid MTB frame one of these days and not just a Hard Rock but something nicer.
#1317
Senior Member
updates to the Frankencross:


Today we have the new Acera 28/38/48 replacing the old Specialized 22/32/42 set, new Odyssey Ghost pads on the u-brake, and GARY BARS WITH BAR ENDS. Yes, they do fit with room to spare, I dunno why so many of you think they don't. And I mounted my used set of pods, so the wedges are wider than normal from being tightened in larger diameter bars. I'm thinking about Retroshift levers eventually.
Today we have the new Acera 28/38/48 replacing the old Specialized 22/32/42 set, new Odyssey Ghost pads on the u-brake, and GARY BARS WITH BAR ENDS. Yes, they do fit with room to spare, I dunno why so many of you think they don't. And I mounted my used set of pods, so the wedges are wider than normal from being tightened in larger diameter bars. I'm thinking about Retroshift levers eventually.
#1318
Jack of all trades
^Wow, looks like something out of the latest Alien movie.
#1319
Senior Member
Nice, I think you bought this frameset from me along with the Alpina Pro and the Nishiki ONP. Not a lot of info out there on Asahi, but I remember this being a cool frame, it's cool to see it built up with drops and brifters for a rider of shorter stature. Do you have the Alpina Pro built up with drops?
Now that you know me online, let me know when you get anymore choice frames, yeah?
#1320
Senior Member
Weighing in on the u brake
I have a DiaCompe 988 or something like that, and it sucked until I replaced the pads. I think the pad compound has more to do with stopping power than anything else, and even steel rims will stop well with the right pads (unless they are wet, of course.) If you're having trouble with mechanical advantage it may be that your cable is bound somewhere or you're using the wrong levers. And roller cams feature the further ability to replace the cam and change the mechanical advantage through the range of cable travel, so that's a huge deal that most people don't even think about. If any of you are having trouble with u brakes or roller cams consider these points before you bash them, mine is 30 years old and working fine.
Oh yeah, and I did have a 52/42/30 triple crankset on it and one point, and I just pushed the crank out as far as I could and it cleared the brake and still shifted well. I just wanted a sort of intermediate gearing so I went smaller.
Oh yeah, and I did have a 52/42/30 triple crankset on it and one point, and I just pushed the crank out as far as I could and it cleared the brake and still shifted well. I just wanted a sort of intermediate gearing so I went smaller.
Last edited by Taxi Rob; 03-20-13 at 08:24 PM.
#1321
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Question for those building up conversions with super-relaxed geometry like the Stumpjumper above. Is the bike actually comfortable? Laid back frame + lean-forward bars just does not seem like a good combo to me.
#1323
missing in action
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Comfortable, oh yes, but not ideal for all conditions. I thought my '87 High Sierra was brilliant at first, but I eventually decided it was a bit of a pig. I prefer the handling of my '90 Rockhopper, but the best advice I can give you is to try it and see for yourself.
#1324
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The '87 High Sierra geometry does not seem like the early Stumpjumper geometry.
Maybe I'm just used to seeing those bikes with bullmoose bars rather than drops.
Maybe I'm just used to seeing those bikes with bullmoose bars rather than drops.