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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 04-08-13, 04:45 PM
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Two High Sierras, an 18" and a 20" (supposedly), for sale near me. From the poor photo they look like black chrome and all original. I could possibly help facilitate later this week.

https://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218...arch=&ad_cid=7
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Old 04-08-13, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_in_Miami
That's correct, it makes no difference which side you put the levers on, they're identical.
Yup. The later Shimano bar end shifters are righty-lefty.
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Old 04-10-13, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by anixi
^Here's an idea: get a canti brake pad recommendation. I'm sure there are fine pads out there that will come close to doubling the braking power of the stock ones.
I just installed Odyssey Ghost pads on my chainstay u-brake, and they're amazing little creatures. I do use a 203mm disc in front for probably about 80% of my braking, but the rear modulates well and will lock when I want it to, and it doesn't squeal. All else being equal, pads are everything.

Also, you guys and your High Sierras and Cimarrons have got me going. Tomorrow I'm picking up a Mirada, which is set up as a sort of townie style, and is rocking an unfortunate claw-mount derailleur. Something about it is screaming at me to buy it, I'm not sure what it is exactly, but I already ordered barends, and I'm sitting on some Pivo rando bars and DiaCompe non-aero levers. Finished bike will be 3x7 Shimano indexed with a Falcon ramped freewheel.

I guess I mostly want the Suntour XCII beartraps off of it for my next SS, and at the same time want to explore the most basic drop bar conversion process as opposed to the full customs I've been building. "Before" pic tomorrow, stay tuned.

Last edited by Taxi Rob; 04-10-13 at 10:44 PM.
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Old 04-10-13, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Aemmer
Sweet Ld's. Who made them? Could be tough to tighten on the trail with nothing but a multi tool? That will look good on the Arvon.
Arvon stems for Arvon bicycles... seems right.
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Old 04-11-13, 07:37 AM
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Here is my latest project. Building a gravel grinder/commuter/baby trailer hauler for my wife.

1996(?) Raleigh M-30
Frame is in pristine condition


Will be built up with alloy stem, drop bars, Tiagra 9 speed shifters, SRAM Apex rear derailleur, Shimano (Hollowtech) 105 Crankset, 9 speed Ultegra cassette and picking up a set of used 26" wheels (WTB Dual Duty rims/Formula hubs). Talk about a Franken-Bike! Should be complete within the next couple weeks!

Last edited by screaminDOHC; 04-11-13 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 04-11-13, 08:39 AM
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How will the Shimano shifter play wit the SRAM rear derailleur? I haven't tried it but was under the impression it doesn't work
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Old 04-11-13, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Aemmer
WTB shift pods. They have been out of production since I think the early 90's.

WTB dirt drop bars.
WTB LD stem.
WTB shift pods.
WTB cable hanger.
Campy headset.
Campy brakes.
XT thumbies.

All wrapped up in a (dirty) cloth wrap.

Not sure what I was thinking when I went with white hoods, wrap, saddle and housing. Some day I will replace it with a cleaner black.

Love this. I wonder if you can replicate the WTB shifter pod effect by flipping Kelly Take-Offs from one bar to the other.

Nevermind - I answered my own question with some additional google-fu - you can.

Last edited by wintermute; 04-11-13 at 08:52 AM.
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Old 04-11-13, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by jdefran
How will the Shimano shifter play wit the SRAM rear derailleur? I haven't tried it but was under the impression it doesn't work
We shall see. They "say" that they are not compatible, but I don't quite comprehend how that is really possible.

Theoretically, the derailleur is a big spring, it *shouldn't* care what brand of shifter is moving it as the Shifter is the mech that has indexed detents, not the derailleur. In my experience with building franken bikes, I don't think it should matter. I could be wrong though. The shifter will pull cable, and the derailleur will move.
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Old 04-11-13, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by wintermute
Love this. I wonder if you can replicate the WTB shifter pod effect by flipping Kelly Take-Offs from one bar to the other.

Nevermind - I answered my own question with some additional google-fu - you can.
care to explain more? the kelly take offs have bosses for downtube shifters but most thumb shifters have proprietary mounts
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Old 04-11-13, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
We shall see. They "say" that they are not compatible, but I don't quite comprehend how that is really possible.

Theoretically, the derailleur is a big spring, it *shouldn't* care what brand of shifter is moving it as the Shifter is the mech that has indexed detents, not the derailleur. In my experience with building franken bikes, I don't think it should matter. I could be wrong though. The shifter will pull cable, and the derailleur will move.
From what I've read it has to do something with SRAM being a 1:1 ratio and Shimano 2:1. This kinda explains: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-624948.html
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Old 04-11-13, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wintermute
Love this. I wonder if you can replicate the WTB shifter pod effect by flipping Kelly Take-Offs from one bar to the other.

Nevermind - I answered my own question with some additional google-fu - you can.
Linkey? Curious what you found.
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Old 04-11-13, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jdefran
From what I've read it has to do something with SRAM being a 1:1 ratio and Shimano 2:1. This kinda explains: https://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-624948.html
I'm gonna try it anyway and see what happens lol.

I have a matching set of 9 speed Tiagra shifters, I'd rather use them if at all possible. If it *won't* work with the SRAM RD I have two options: Buy a new RD, OR use a RH SRAM Apex shifter from my parts bin with a Tiagra LH shifter. Cost being the driving factor on this build, if it doesn't work I'll probably just run with mismatched shifters (SRAM RH, Shimano LH) for a while
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Old 04-11-13, 12:22 PM
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I'm thinking you could get any shimano rd from at least 1990 (8 speed) and it'll work.
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Old 04-11-13, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by frantik
care to explain more? the kelly take offs have bosses for downtube shifters but most thumb shifters have proprietary mounts
I'm starting my build from scratch so, if I do go this route, I'll be using downtubes.

Originally Posted by Aemmer
Linkey? Curious what you found.
Not much yet, I'm still just grazing for ideas. I just did a google image search for "Kelly Take-Offs" and some of the images appeared to have the shifters in a position easily accessible from the hoods.

But, just now, I found this website, looks very promising, and although not true C&V, it does look the part...

https://retroshift.com/store/products/cx2/
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Old 04-11-13, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by wintermute
Not much yet, I'm still just grazing for ideas. I just did a google image search for "Kelly Take-Offs" and some of the images appeared to have the shifters in a position easily accessible from the hoods.
Isn't that how they all are? I know when I had mine set up I could shift easily from the hoods and tops, but drops required a bit of contortion if I wanted to do more than nudging. I'm still debating whether to put them back on with a new build and try running the shift cables under the tape to get it out of the way.
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Old 04-11-13, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by himespau
Isn't that how they all are? I know when I had mine set up I could shift easily from the hoods and tops, but drops required a bit of contortion if I wanted to do more than nudging. I'm still debating whether to put them back on with a new build and try running the shift cables under the tape to get it out of the way.
i was debating to get take offs but if you can't shift from the drops easily then what's the point :\
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Old 04-11-13, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by frantik
i was debating to get take offs but if you can't shift from the drops easily then what's the point :\
Well, I think if you flip them upside down you might be able to shift only from the drops. I spend all my time on the hoods with a little time on the tops while navigating traffic in the commute, so they worked well for me.
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Old 04-11-13, 06:35 PM
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if they are upside down wouldn't the cables go the wrong way? or flip the sides too? anyone have a pic or experience using this set up?
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Old 04-11-13, 08:18 PM
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Update for tonite. Drop bars, shifters mounted for fun, 105 octalink installed. I have a better wheel set, junk wheels are just to see how it looks.







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Old 04-12-13, 06:55 AM
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Not bad! The clean frame makes that bike, in a big way!

I came across this. If EVER there was a bike begging for a drop bar conversion, this is IT! I'd do it up cyclocross style, with WIDE Tektro canti's,,,,BD

https://houston.craigslist.org/bik/3708295327.html
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Old 04-12-13, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by himespau
Isn't that how they all are? I know when I had mine set up I could shift easily from the hoods and tops, but drops required a bit of contortion if I wanted to do more than nudging. I'm still debating whether to put them back on with a new build and try running the shift cables under the tape to get it out of the way.
Whoops, I meant drops, not hoods. Brain fart.
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Old 04-12-13, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wintermute
Whoops, I meant drops, not hoods. Brain fart.
Yeah, I think that should work. You might be able to put the levers on 180 degrees different while leaving the Kelley's in the same orientation. I've thought about trying that, but then decided that I'm so rarely in the drops (except descending or something where I rarely shift), so decided not to bother.
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Old 04-12-13, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by screaminDOHC
Update for tonite. Drop bars, shifters mounted for fun, 105 octalink installed. I have a better wheel set, junk wheels are just to see how it looks.







Hey screaminDOHC,

Nice build you have going, I'm sure once it's all flowing together your wife will really enjoy the relaxed geometry with the drop bar road set up. I know cost can be a motivator and recycling what you already have vs. buying what you don't is always a factor but I think you could simplify everything by keeping it all Shimano and picking up a 9 speed rear derailleur. That will solve everything and avoid the whole cross brand issue of compatibility. Plus, in my opinion keep up a tidier aesthetic as I prefer the look of the Shimano over the Sram but also assures proper shift ratios. There is plenty of reading out there regarding a "ShimApex" drivetrain as to whether this or that works, mix and match as you like but I'd suggest solving your issue with a 9 speed Shimano "mountain" bike derailleur. The cable pull ratio of all 9 speed index-compatible Shimano shifters/rear derailleurs is the same, road or mountain (with the one exception being 8 speed and earlier Dura Ace). Any of them will do but the XTR, XT, and LX had the strongest springs, opt for a long cage if possible (wider cassette gearing possibilities in the future). There is no shortage of new and used ones on Ebay and Craigslist for cheap ($20 used and $40 new for 9 speed LX). The way I see it... you have a pure Shimano set up and the only thing hanging you up is a rear derailleur, you stated above that you'd prefer to run the Tiagra brifters, just pick up a rear derailleur and you're done.

-D-

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Old 04-12-13, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by neo_pop_71
Hey screaminDOHC,

Nice build you have going, I'm sure once it's all flowing together your wife will really enjoy the relaxed geometry with the drop bar road set up. I know cost can be a motivator and recycling what you already have vs. buying what you don't is always a factor but I think you could simplify everything by keeping it all Shimano and picking up a 9 speed rear derailleur. That will solve everything and avoid the whole cross brand issue of compatibility. Plus, in my opinion keep up a tidier aesthetic as I prefer the look of the Shimano over the Sram but also assures proper shift ratios. There is plenty of reading out there regarding a "ShimApex" drivetrain as to whether this or that works, mix and match as you like but I'd suggest solving your issue with a 9 speed Shimano "mountain" bike derailleur. The cable pull ratio of all 9 speed index-compatible Shimano shifters/rear derailleurs is the same, road or mountain (with the one exception being 8 speed and earlier Dura Ace). Any of them will do but the XTR, XT, and LX had the strongest springs, opt for a long cage if possible (wider cassette gearing possibilities in the future). There is no shortage of new and used ones on Ebay and Craigslist for cheap ($20 used and $40 new for 9 speed LX). The way I see it... you have a pure Shimano set up and the only thing hanging you up is a rear derailleur, you stated above that you'd prefer to run the Tiagra brifters, just pick up a rear derailleur and you're done.

-D-
Thanks! I had her sit on it (she's currently pregnant) and the current geometry seemed to work (this will be an addition to her fleet which currently consists of a Trek Tri Bike, Trek 2.3 Road bike, and FS mtb).
I'm going to scour around for a Shimano 9 speed RD, as I totally agree and came to that conclusion last night.
Not to mention that she's used to Shimano, and throwing half Shimano, half Sram double tap might be confusing.
Can't wait to see it complete.
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Old 04-12-13, 04:21 PM
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Almost done with this Croll build (from NOS frame). Will be wearing a different FD and spd's as well as some general finishing up of the cables before it's completed. Just back from initial (and successful) shakedown run.

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