LesterOfPuppets

I'd be interested in brifter/cassette details, if you don't mind, anixi

Thinking of doing a 7 of 10 Shimergo setup on my drop MTB, might just make my second dropbar MTB by converting my Mongoose, which I've already got down close to 24 lbs even with 2.1" knobbies.

neo_pop_71

That would be a 1991 Stumpjumper Comp, the only year Mike Sinyard produced a Stumpy with a matte finish (only the Comp in '91, the rest of the '91 frames were ultra shiny), and pretty highly desired as a rider's Stumpjumper. The original first run of 500 Stumpjumpers, the collectors' Holy Grail, were made between October and end of December 1981, Japanese made for the U.S. market. The Grail 500 and into late '82 the Stumpjumpers were tig welded, late '82 saw the first lugged frames and that would run for a few years before returning to a tig frame in the late '80's. Here is a quick reference chart from the MOMBAT site, just in case you come across a sweet deal and want to know the year, model, parts specs, etc.:

https://mombat.org/Specialized_Specs.htm

Here is my '91 Comp, I raced it almost 3 seasons, a trusty ol' friend for sure!



Oh man, no way... I've got no buddies in government but my neighbor is on the city council and he is a nice enough guy!

Besides, it's only cool and original once... our silver spoon dynasty boy from Massachusetts turned Crawford cowboy left some big ol'boob'boots behind for the president to fill... good luck fillin' those bad boys!!!

anixi

It's a Campy Mirage 8-speed brifter, with a 6-speed freewheel. It works really well, despite losing 2 clicks. I believe the freewheel is a 14/28, which, with a triple crankset, works just fine on the easier hills. It doesn't work on shale/loose gravel though, even with the cyclo-cross race tires.

anixi

Yeah, you're right. I knew it had a "one" in the year!

cooperryder

I thought those wheels look bigger than 26". I was wondering if it was optical 'illusion / confusion' on my part.

How do you find the bottom bracket height with the taller wheels or do the lower profile 700c tires make up a good portion of the height differences?

anixi

It doesn't seem tippy at all. I never considered the BB height and didn't measure, so I have no empirical data. I like how it handles twisty single track, even though it is a different feel from my full-suspension MTB. All in all, it works for me. It's a little short for me, at 20" frame, but, it does seem to work better than the other conversions at 23.5" an 24". Those were really heavy and didn't work nearly as well on hill climbing.

I wish I could take it out today, no-can-do with this wretched cold. Otherwise I could see if I could give more feedback on the effect of the higher BB on handling.

hairnet

Got it going again. The Midge is actually kinda nice

frantik

^ sweet

likebike23

Do you find the hoods on that bar to be a viable hand position, or is the angle wrong. Bike looks great by the way!

hairnet

It is a viable hand position. FWIW I commute about two hours a day with a Nitto Mustache bar and the position is similar, not the same, so I might just be used to it.

likebike23

Thanks for the reply. I've got nashbar moustache bars on my drop conversion, and I don't like that there's not a flat, and I'm not loving the hood position. My wrists are extended too much for comfort on long rides and there's really only one other position, the drops. It looks like the Midge at least gives you 3 or 4 positions.

hairnet

I had that bar and it wasnt very good. Mustache bars are tricky to get comfortable, it did take a long time and lots of fit tweaking to get it to work out.

dphilips

In trying to find the right bar height and reach I've tried three different stems: a Nitto Dirt Drop (long quill version, 100mm extension), Kalloy AL-222 (100mm extension), and a Nitto Technomic (long quill version, 70mm extension). The photo below shows the three with their minimum insertion marks aligned.



The Dirt Drop when bottomed out on the steerer tube of my 20.5" Univega was still a bit too high and was too close. The Technomic didn't have quite enough height for me. The inexpensive AL-222 isn't finished as nicely as the Nitto stems and is heavier but at max extension it put the bars in just the right spot for me.

Getting my Midge bar on the AL-222 was a huge chore due to the tight bends. It is much easier to use a 26.0 stem and shim the bar once it is past the bends.

frantik

that's a bummer it was tough to get the midge on the kalloy bar.. I've been looking for a "go to" riser stem and that looks like the perfect size stem. The Gary II bar's bends are a little more "open" but I still had a tough time getting it on my Sakae riser stem on my Univega.

I think i might end up making the 1988 Diamondback Ascent EX a drop bar conversion, just need to find the right stem. I actually stole the stem from it to put on my Jamis the gary bar went on that stem


some of it depends on the brake position and the brakes themselves. I had cane creek scr-5 brakes on my midge and didn't really like the hoods position, but it looks more usable with those hairnet's brakes

neo_pop_71

The Nitto stems are easier in that regard because they both have cut away sections on the underside of the handlebar clamp, it doesn't seem like much but I've found that little refinement to be worth the added cost. That said, I'm somewhat biased as I'm running a Dirt Drop and a Technomic on my two Cimarron builds... they're worth it to me hands down!

neo_pop_71

Always dig seeing this bike!!!

The photos are top hairnet! I love the juxtapositioning of the green leafy stuff against the chain link and pavement!!!

Super cool, thanks for sharing!

-D-

Paramount1973 

This is why I use quill-to-threadless stem converters to convert my bikes to threadless stems with faceplates.

frantik

that cut away section you describe is almost essential for mounting drops

there are lots of benefits to this and not many cons.. but to me it just looks ugly.. not a fan of the threadless look

dphilips

Sunlite makes a quill stem with a two-bolt removable plate that doesn't look too bad. It has a 180mm quill and 25 deg rise like the AL-222 but only 80mm extension.

himespau 

That looks like it might be useful. Odd that a clamp size isn't listed though.

LesterOfPuppets

Green Canyon lists it as 25.4mm, this one's 1-1/8" though.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-.../dp/B003Q3Y9SW

himespau 

Yeah, that's probably what it is. Too bad, because I have a 26.0 bar I want to try and thought this might be a good back up if the technomic didn't work.

rodar y rodar

Cool trick with those wheels, Anixi! Did you end up needing different reaches for the front and rear calipers? Both sets of calipers were "front" for nonrecessed holes?

LesterOfPuppets

His rear looks recessed, he must've drilled out the front hole on the brake bridge.

I drilled out the back hole on my fork and just used a nutted rear brake on mine.

neo_pop_71

Don't fret himespau, Nitto has you covered!



Here is a link to Riv.'s site, they sell 'em for $10.00... way better than messing with beer cans!

https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/hb91.htm