Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions
01-23-13, 02:47 PM
#801
Chainstay Brake Mafia
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: California
Posts: 6,007
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
10 Posts
Specialized Crossroads III tires on Araya RX-7 hoops. Shimano exage hubs (m454 or something like that). I actually like the wheels and have considered swapping them onto my 86 Apex if i flip the bike. tires are ok, came with the bike. i prefer a full slick as the side knobbies just reduce traction during turns on pavement
yeah i wish i had a black seat post the right size then it would be totally ninja style
ps i hate it when you post pics and it's the last post on the page
here's one of the pics again 
yeah i wish i had a black seat post the right size then it would be totally ninja styleps i hate it when you post pics and it's the last post on the page
here's one of the pics again
Last edited by frantik; 01-23-13 at 07:32 PM.
01-23-13, 05:22 PM
#802
The Rabbi
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,123
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Here's my fresh 1992 Schwinn High Plains, rebuilt with the stock drivetrain, WTB Dirt Drop bar, Tektro levers, stock stem, Origin 8 cantis, Axiom fenders and a Sunlite rack. Shifters are Ultegra 8spd bar ends. It might be the best bike I've ever ridden.
Last edited by seely; 01-23-13 at 05:25 PM.
01-23-13, 06:28 PM
#803
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Solvang, CA
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
iLove the way fenders look on these bikes! BY the way, is that a 7 speed drivetrain? If so, how are those 8 speed shifters working?
01-23-13, 06:34 PM
#804
The Rabbi
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,123
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 16 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks! These are easily the best fenders I've used to date. Super simple install, excellent fit. The drivetrain is the stock 7 speed cassette. It works flawlessly with the 8 speed shifter -- the derailleur limits prevent you from ever "over shifting" with that extra click. Eventually, I'll be building a nicer wheelset and going 8 speed.
01-23-13, 09:07 PM
#806
Senior Member
Ahh, I see it was already explained. Yeah 7 and 8 speed have the same gear spacing, then 9 speed they narrowed it..... Duh, I should have known that..
__________________
So many bikes, so little dime.
So many bikes, so little dime.
01-23-13, 09:52 PM
#807
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 360
Bikes: koga miyata road gentleman, raleigh crested butte, raleigh comp 650b
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
01-24-13, 03:20 PM
#809
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 4,466
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 16 Times
in
13 Posts
This week, I've spent a few evening hours tearing down the MB-2 and Black Chrome High Sierra that I picked up last weekend. I have to admit that the High Sierra is growing on me aesthetically. The frame is not in as good of shape as Chris'. The black chrome is worn through to the silver in a number of places and there is somewhat of a flattening of the chain stay from some idiot installing a kick stand. But, overall, it's not bad. The combination of the black chrome and the monster roller cams does give it a Mad Max and somewhat Steam Punk look. I do think I will be on the lookout for another in better condition.
My plan is to make it into a path/trail SS. I am going to wrap and shellac the chainstay to match the handle bars. Here is a quick photo of a sort of mockup. BTW, how do these ride with the 70 degree ST angle?
My plan is to make it into a path/trail SS. I am going to wrap and shellac the chainstay to match the handle bars. Here is a quick photo of a sort of mockup. BTW, how do these ride with the 70 degree ST angle?
01-24-13, 06:31 PM
#810
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: So Cal
Posts: 701
Bikes: Cimarrons 1835, 0836, 1767, 3517, 0768, 3408, a LHT, and a couple others
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 11 Times
in
8 Posts
Here's a picture of my conversion; it's a 1987 Schwinn Cimarron that's been worked over. I had a late 90's MTB that also contributed with the m952 XTR. This bike rides great, although she's a bit portly. So far, my longest trek on it is 55 miles. As long as I remember that I WONT be as fast as I am on my road bike, life is good.
01-24-13, 08:30 PM
#811
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Manhattan & Woodstock NY
Posts: 2,746
Bikes: 1987 Mercian Pro, 1985 Shogun 500, early '70s Falcon San Remo, 1972 Peugeot PX-10, 1972 Schwinn Paramount P13-9, 1971 Raleigh International, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1970 Raleigh Professional Mk1
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 938 Post(s)
Liked 2,939 Times
in
980 Posts
I'm working up a Ross Mt. Ranier that I've had since it was new. I used to bounce around the trails on it and for a while I used it when I co-lead tours in Vermont, but for the last many years it's mostly hung from the ceiling so I figured it was time to dust it off and play around. I got a lot of inspiration from this.
I scored a set of NOS Simplex barcons and found a set of Raleigh USA engraved bars/stem in the bin at my LBS, and a new centerpull cable hanger. In another thread I documented my discovery and resolution of finding out that the original Ross stem was a .833 diameter (and boat anchor, weightwise), and the Raleigh stem didn't fit. Once I found one in yet another bin, I was ready to go.
Cabled it up and spun around the 'hood today and I'm glad to say that everything works perfectly! Now I'll take everything apart, clean up from stem to stern and reassemble.
Front view:
Sorry about the crazy basement floor...Suntour/Cunningham brakes are working fine with the road levers. The front derailleur cable is a bit lower than the rear because the down tube braze-on is a bit lower on the tube than the rear. I'll fuss with getting the cables even on the final build. You can see my battered old Super Record pedals...I still have the bear claws that came with the Ross but I preferred to use my old road pedals and cleats.
Cockpit view:
Side:
After cleanup and tuning I'll pick tires - I'm leaning towards 1-1/2" tanwall Paselas - and decide if I want fenders. I really liked the color scheme of Brendan's bike, but for now I'm thinking that when I'm done I'll embrace the early 90's proto-bling and wrap the bars in bright blue.
I scored a set of NOS Simplex barcons and found a set of Raleigh USA engraved bars/stem in the bin at my LBS, and a new centerpull cable hanger. In another thread I documented my discovery and resolution of finding out that the original Ross stem was a .833 diameter (and boat anchor, weightwise), and the Raleigh stem didn't fit. Once I found one in yet another bin, I was ready to go.
Cabled it up and spun around the 'hood today and I'm glad to say that everything works perfectly! Now I'll take everything apart, clean up from stem to stern and reassemble.
Front view:
Sorry about the crazy basement floor...Suntour/Cunningham brakes are working fine with the road levers. The front derailleur cable is a bit lower than the rear because the down tube braze-on is a bit lower on the tube than the rear. I'll fuss with getting the cables even on the final build. You can see my battered old Super Record pedals...I still have the bear claws that came with the Ross but I preferred to use my old road pedals and cleats.
Cockpit view:
Side:
After cleanup and tuning I'll pick tires - I'm leaning towards 1-1/2" tanwall Paselas - and decide if I want fenders. I really liked the color scheme of Brendan's bike, but for now I'm thinking that when I'm done I'll embrace the early 90's proto-bling and wrap the bars in bright blue.
Progress...got the Kenda K809 skinwalls today so I dropped into a shop near my house for bar wrap. After rummaging around, the owner says, hey, this Cinelli wrap must be pretty old, look at the price." $11.99 for blue cork wrap...back to the future! Here's how it looks now. Still need to do a full cleanup and I know I'll be fiddling with saddles for a while. For now it's an old Regal with fake Brooks copper rivets.
I'm liking the look more than I thought I would. Feels like something from the '60's, like a blue Schwinn Varsity I had when I was a kid.
01-24-13, 09:53 PM
#812
You gonna eat that?
Before:
Original configuration as the bike came to me in 2008, still with the store price tags from 1994 (on the handlebars)
Early commuting setup
Current setup
The handlebar setup
The mods
Drop bar mods
. Quill Stem Adapter (bought new at LBS)
. Handlebar Stem (closeout at LBS)
. Drop Bars & Tektro Brake Levers (bought together at a swap meet)
. Suntour Barcon Shifters (bought at a swap meet)
Lighting mods
. Wheelset with Schmidt SON 28 dynohub in front wheel (bought used)
. Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus headlight with standlight
. Busch & Müller Toplight Line Plus taillight with standlight
Comfort:
. Brooks B17 Saddle
. Cinelli cork handlebar tape (shellacked)
Original configuration as the bike came to me in 2008, still with the store price tags from 1994 (on the handlebars)
Early commuting setup
Current setup
The handlebar setup
The mods
Drop bar mods
. Quill Stem Adapter (bought new at LBS)
. Handlebar Stem (closeout at LBS)
. Drop Bars & Tektro Brake Levers (bought together at a swap meet)
. Suntour Barcon Shifters (bought at a swap meet)
Lighting mods
. Wheelset with Schmidt SON 28 dynohub in front wheel (bought used)
. Busch & Müller Lumotec IQ Fly Senso Plus headlight with standlight
. Busch & Müller Toplight Line Plus taillight with standlight
Comfort:
. Brooks B17 Saddle
. Cinelli cork handlebar tape (shellacked)
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi 
"However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-24-13, 10:17 PM
#813
Junior Member
I just recently put those same SKS fenders on my commuter. I didn't like the bottom of the front fender going so low so I trimmed a couple of inches off of it. here is a link to the installation. sorry no pics of the trimmed fender yet. https://onelesscartrip.com/?p=274
royal
royal
01-25-13, 08:53 AM
#815
missing in action
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,483
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Liked 49 Times
in
29 Posts
This week, I've spent a few evening hours tearing down the MB-2 and Black Chrome High Sierra that I picked up last weekend. I have to admit that the High Sierra is growing on me aesthetically. The frame is not in as good of shape as Chris'. The black chrome is worn through to the silver in a number of places and there is somewhat of a flattening of the chain stay from some idiot installing a kick stand. But, overall, it's not bad. The combination of the black chrome and the monster roller cams does give it a Mad Max and somewhat Steam Punk look. I do think I will be on the lookout for another in better condition.
My plan is to make it into a path/trail SS. I am going to wrap and shellac the chainstay to match the handle bars. Here is a quick photo of a sort of mockup. BTW, how do these ride with the 70 degree ST angle?
My plan is to make it into a path/trail SS. I am going to wrap and shellac the chainstay to match the handle bars. Here is a quick photo of a sort of mockup. BTW, how do these ride with the 70 degree ST angle?
The ride is best described as "stately" (a term someone else used here within the last few days.) I was pretty happy with mine initially, but I much prefer the geometry of my 1990 Rockhopper. My High Sierra is currently stripped down and waiting for a new owner.
01-25-13, 09:20 AM
#816
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Schwenksville, Pa
Posts: 2,771
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 276 Post(s)
Liked 338 Times
in
178 Posts
I know it's not quite vintage yet (1998), but I never knew Rivendell made these. One just went for $2500 on the auction site, so it at least held it's value.
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...e#.UQKiY_K8CSo
https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/B...e#.UQKiY_K8CSo
Likes For Kobe:
01-25-13, 10:23 AM
#817
Senior Member
here's where I am with the 84 high sierra. left is mostly just bar tape and trying to figure out why the new chain keeps slipping on the new freewheel.
Last edited by Chris Chicago; 01-25-13 at 10:49 AM.
01-25-13, 10:38 AM
#818
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
Be careful straightening hanger if you do it yourself. I used a tool like this one until I came across a used Parks tool version.
I've bought quite a few tools from this ebay seller over the years. I had his earlier version derailleur hanger tool.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Bik...item3cbffbcf9d
01-25-13, 10:50 AM
#819
Senior Member
thanks Bill. derailleur looks like it leans a little towards the wheel so I'm thinking you're right.
1 more question: how tight are the barcons supposed to feel? i loosened the right side bc it felt pretty sluggish shifting to smaller cogs, but then it wouldnt hold the rd in place...after a mile or so chain would shift itself, or start too. so I tightened it back up, seems to hold better now but def harder to push down than I'd prefer.
1 more question: how tight are the barcons supposed to feel? i loosened the right side bc it felt pretty sluggish shifting to smaller cogs, but then it wouldnt hold the rd in place...after a mile or so chain would shift itself, or start too. so I tightened it back up, seems to hold better now but def harder to push down than I'd prefer.
Last edited by Chris Chicago; 01-25-13 at 10:55 AM.
01-25-13, 11:28 AM
#820
Goes to 11.
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wichita, KS, USA
Posts: 2,547
Bikes: 2015 Soma Double Cross
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Shifting action should be smooth but there should be a little resistance, especially as you start the shift movement. You should be able to tighten them all the way down and still get free movement of the shifter. How do they feel when they're off the bike?
01-25-13, 11:58 AM
#821
Senior Member
they seemed fine off.
when I tighten them, shifter still moves but not as freely. are you saying tightening should have no effect?
when I tighten them, shifter still moves but not as freely. are you saying tightening should have no effect?
01-25-13, 12:05 PM
#822
working on my sandal tan
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: CID
Posts: 22,629
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
Mentioned: 98 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3871 Post(s)
Liked 2,568 Times
in
1,579 Posts
I just recently put those same SKS fenders on my commuter. I didn't like the bottom of the front fender going so low so I trimmed a couple of inches off of it. here is a link to the installation. sorry no pics of the trimmed fender yet. https://onelesscartrip.com/?p=274
royal
royal
01-25-13, 12:13 PM
#823
Carpe Velo
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 2,519
Bikes: 2000 Bianchi Veloce, '88 Schwinn Prologue, '90 Bianchi Volpe,'94 Yokota Grizzly Peak, Yokota Enterprise, '16 Diamondback Haanjo, '91 Bianchi Boardwalk, Ellsworth cruiser
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times
in
13 Posts
01-25-13, 12:48 PM
#824
You gonna eat that?
1 more question: how tight are the barcons supposed to feel? i loosened the right side bc it felt pretty sluggish shifting to smaller cogs, but then it wouldnt hold the rd in place...after a mile or so chain would shift itself, or start too. so I tightened it back up, seems to hold better now but def harder to push down than I'd prefer.
Friction force required is very much a function of the derailleur. On my Nishiki I have Suntour Barcons and the are fairly "loose" (easy to shift). I have a modern-ish rear derailleur that is designed for indexed shifting. I also have Suntour Barcons on my '83 Raleigh Super Course. The RD is a Suntour Cyclone and it requires much more friction force to hold it in place, so I have the same issue you're having- a little too tight feeling. I'm considering swapping out the RD and see if it gets better (the bike came with a Suntour aRX RD; I may put that on). But regarding your concern about how much friction you need to hold position, I think that is driven by the leverage in the parallelogram of the RD and the spring force of the RD.
If I get around to changing out the RD on my Super Course and get a better feel, I'll let you know.
__________________
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
I stop for people / whose right of way I honor / but not for no one.
Originally Posted by bragi "However, it's never a good idea to overgeneralize."
01-25-13, 01:07 PM
#825
Thrifty Bill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Mountains of Western NC
Posts: 23,524
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
Mentioned: 96 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1236 Post(s)
Liked 964 Times
in
628 Posts
thanks Bill. derailleur looks like it leans a little towards the wheel so I'm thinking you're right.
1 more question: how tight are the barcons supposed to feel? i loosened the right side bc it felt pretty sluggish shifting to smaller cogs, but then it wouldnt hold the rd in place...after a mile or so chain would shift itself, or start too. so I tightened it back up, seems to hold better now but def harder to push down than I'd prefer.
1 more question: how tight are the barcons supposed to feel? i loosened the right side bc it felt pretty sluggish shifting to smaller cogs, but then it wouldnt hold the rd in place...after a mile or so chain would shift itself, or start too. so I tightened it back up, seems to hold better now but def harder to push down than I'd prefer.
You should feel a little resistance on those barcons, so if they are moving super smoothly, they could be too loose. They need to be tight enough to hold their position. Its kind of a finesse thing, not too tight, not too loose. Be really careful with too loose. On the old Suntour barcons, they had a unique lock nut on them, too loose and you could loose that proprietary, no longer made, nut.
Just closing the loop on the weight of the Kendas on my Cimmaron. I just changed them out with 1.5" Panaracers, cut 2 pounds off the bike. WOW.
+1 To below, as long as the lock nut is tight, you are good to go. I find a lot of Suntour barcons with the lock nuts long gone. And they just lock in the nut directly beneath them, so if you have the bolt loose, you can still have the lock nut secure.
Last edited by wrk101; 01-26-13 at 05:54 PM.