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Regina freewheel problem

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Old 07-03-12, 08:53 PM
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Regina freewheel problem

My Regina freewheel has a small amount of side to side play when it's mounted on the hub. It spins nice and free but sounds horrible. When I spin the wheel it sounds like its rubbing on something. I took the freewheel off and soaked it. Took my hub apart and cleaned and regreased the bearings. So I know for sure it's the freewheel. I have put about 500 miles on it since I put it on. It looked new with no visible wear when I bought it. The noise just started a few days ago, thats when i noticed ot felt loose.I do have the freewheel tight on the hub. Any ideals. It does work fine but the noise is bugging me. Thanks
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Old 07-03-12, 08:57 PM
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Sounds like the freewheel has bad bearings.
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Old 07-03-12, 10:11 PM
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Some reginas have a pinched area on their cast (or is it forged?) metal cores that keep the end of the circular pawl spring from spinning inside of the freewheel. Mine (a CX) was making weird rubbing and knocking noises that I found out was coming from that slightly raised pinced area on the FW core, as the bearings on the inner race next to it was hiiting it. I used my dremel to knock down the high area which got rid of the noise. It's all back together now and is the quietest FW I have on my bikes. Check that area of the FW the next time you have it apart and see if that is the problem. also check if the shim washers in the FW are all there adn in good condition. I think it's a good idea to switch the location of the two pawl pieces to possibly give them a fresh set on the FW body and the ratchet teeth as they might have worn down a bit.

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Old 07-04-12, 06:42 AM
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It sounds as if your freewheel needs servicing.

They originally came with greased bearings. If the bearings have dried out they can corrode and become pitted, and if so need to be replaced. It is also possible for grit and other contaminants to work their way into the races and pawls. This is probably the case and why it "sounds horrible."

What did you soak it in? What did you do after the soaking? What model Regina do you have?

If when you open it up, and find that the balls go flying and don't stay in their races like in the picture below, you know it is time for your Regina to be fully serviced.



Your bearings should look nice and shinny like these if you plan to reuse them. If they don't clean up, throw them away.



Here's a good example of what many freewheels look like on the inside when they are first opened up.



Here's a before and after on a badly corroded Regina CX that needed an extreme freewheel makeover.




While I could never remove all the pitting in the cogs, this Regina purred like new after the spa treatment.
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Old 07-04-12, 06:47 AM
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It could be bad bearings, but if it looked new when you got it, I'd suspect foreign matter in there, like Pastor Bob says.
What did you soak it in Sloar, and what did you re-lube it with?
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Old 07-04-12, 07:04 AM
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How do you take the body apart to get to the bearings? I have all the cogs off now. It's a Regina extra bx. Sounds like it might be the bearings since the need grease. I soaked it in degrease and rinsed it with hot water then sprayed w-d40 .
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Old 07-04-12, 08:05 AM
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It needs to come apart ASAP!

Mount the body on a wheel. Grab a small punch (which can fit in the holes on the bearing retainer ring), a hammer and a small container that can fit over the entire body.

With the wheel mostly horizontal in your lap, take the punch and hammer and begin tapping the retaining ring in a clockwise direction (yes, reverse threads, i.e. righty loosey). At first the body will tighten on the hub but eventually the retaining ring should begin to loosen. As it does, make certain the wheel is horizontal with the FW body up.

When the retaining ring is completely loose, take the small container (clean yogurt cup) and place over the body. Quickly flip the wheel over, allowing the outer body, bearings, and possibly the pawls to fall into the container. Look carefully before removing the wheel from the container if any bearings are stuck to the races of the inner body. Knock those loose into the container. Use your freewheel puller tool to remove the inner body from the hub.

I spray everything with WD40 to begin with. I then wipe off the excess grease, dirt, etc., from the inner and outer body. I absorb the excess WD40 from the balls with a paper towel and then begin cleaning them with hot water and Dawn dish detergent. I clean the bodies in the same solution of dawn and hot water. I dry everything in a convection oven at about 200F. Let things cool to room temp, apply grease, balls, oil the pawl pivots and the internal teeth. Reassemble and use the punch to tighten the retaining ring.

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Old 07-04-12, 08:12 AM
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This is just too cool Bob. Great tutorial. I think I'd send it to Bob's Freewheel Rehab Hospital, Sloar! He knows this stuff.
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Old 07-04-12, 08:38 AM
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Bob, thank you for the freewheel lesson! That was awesome I will let you know how it turns out.
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Old 07-04-12, 11:21 AM
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Glad to help. Take pictures of this project.
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Old 07-04-12, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by pastorbobnlnh View Post
Glad to help. Take pictures of this project.
I rebuilt a Suntour New Winner that looked NOS on the outside but was all jammed up inside. Were it not for your advice and guidance, it would have ended up in the trash. It turns out the lock ring keeping everything together was too tight and the internals looked as good as the exterior, like new.
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Old 07-04-12, 11:51 AM
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I took it apart and all the bearings were dry. Question I have though is when I took tthe top lock ring off it looked like about 5 bearings were missing. I had extras so I filled in the empty gaps and tightened the lock ring down and the freewheel body wouldn't move. Is there suppose to be a gap in the bearings?
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Old 07-04-12, 12:56 PM
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Like butter! Thanks everyone.,,
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Old 07-04-12, 07:08 PM
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All's well that ends well!
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Old 05-11-15, 05:08 PM
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Just putting this out there to ressurect this thread which started my journey on revitalizing an old regina cx 7speed freewheel. I don't know if this is particualr to the 7 speed model in particular but something which isnt described in pastor bob's removal instructions is having to use 2 chain whips to free off the front smallest ring to access the lock door ring 2 hole piece. Just throwing it out there that the first 2 rings have to come off first. (Also tech tip : Removing the second ring will take the first ring with it which might make things a little easier if the threads are a little corroded). Great thread though! Super happy with how it turned out after a full re-grease! ALSO ONE LAST THING. I went out and bought the park tool fr-4 which is the current removal tool that's compatible with removing some regina free wheels, but I didnt actually end up using it to remove the freewheel, just dismantled it and cleaned and regreased the bearings with the inside piece still on the hub. To access the removal area of the actual free wheel I would have had to take off the spindle end piece which isn't always that much fun. But things worked out just leaving the inside part on the hub and worked on it like that. JUST SAYING YOU DONT HAVE TO TRACK DOWN THE REGINA REMOVAL TOOL. or well that worked well for me. (also this is my first thread. just really making it count)
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Old 05-11-15, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Alphavillage View Post
Just putting this out there to ressurect this thread which started my journey on revitalizing an old regina cx 7speed freewheel. I don't know if this is particualr to the 7 speed model in particular but something which isnt described in pastor bob's removal instructions is having to use 2 chain whips to free off the front smallest ring to access the lock door ring 2 hole piece. Just throwing it out there that the first 2 rings have to come off first. (Also tech tip : Removing the second ring will take the first ring with it which might make things a little easier if the threads are a little corroded). Great thread though! Super happy with how it turned out after a full re-grease! ALSO ONE LAST THING. I went out and bought the park tool fr-4 which is the current removal tool that's compatible with removing some regina free wheels, but I didnt actually end up using it to remove the freewheel, just dismantled it and cleaned and regreased the bearings with the inside piece still on the hub. To access the removal area of the actual free wheel I would have had to take off the spindle end piece which isn't always that much fun. But things worked out just leaving the inside part on the hub and worked on it like that. JUST SAYING YOU DONT HAVE TO TRACK DOWN THE REGINA REMOVAL TOOL. or well that worked well for me. (also this is my first thread. just really making it count)
Alpha village, welcome to C&V. Glad you were able to service your Regina. I'd like to encourage you to go ahead and remove the freewheel and grease the hub threads. This will help insure its future. Happy riding!
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Old 05-11-15, 08:55 PM
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You don't really need to whips or a freewheel vice. I made my own vice with two blocks of wood and some screws. Basically screw the freewheel to the any piece of wood and then with a whip just unthread the the outer cogs. Using two whips at the same time in opposite directions sounds like trying to pat your head and rub your belly as the same time. Lol.
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Old 05-11-15, 10:09 PM
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[QUOTE=pastorbobnlnh;14438873]It needs to come apart ASAP!

Mount the body on a wheel. Grab a small punch (which can fit in the holes on the bearing retainer ring), a hammer and a small container that can fit over the entire body.

With the wheel mostly horizontal in your lap, take the punch and hammer and begin tapping the retaining ring in a clockwise direction (yes, reverse threads, i.e. righty loosey). At first the body will tighten on the hub but eventually the retaining ring should begin to loosen. As it does, make certain the wheel is horizontal with the FW body up.

My technique for freewheel overhaul is exactly the same up to this point. But, (dare I suggest an alternate technique to the Master of freewheels) at this point, I remove the freewheel entirely from the wheel. I can then spin out the "retaining ring" while the freewheel body is sitting over a recycled tuna fish can. All the bearings and the freewhell body will fall nicely into the can. I usually have a small amount of WD40 in the can to help eliminate any "bounce" that might scatter the bearrings. On one can, I actually attached some "Magnetic tool roll" material to prevent bouncing, this also tends to magnetize the bearings a little so they are "encouraged" to stick to the freewheel body for reassembly. I insert the (splined type only) freewheel tool through the back of the freewheel supported by either an appropriate socket modified to sit in a bench vise or directly held in a vise when it becomes time to tighten the retaining ring for reassembly.

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Old 05-12-15, 05:12 AM
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Originally Posted by elcraft View Post
technique for freewheel overhaul is exactly the same up to this point. But, (dare I suggest an alternate technique to the Master of freewheels) at this point, I remove the freewheel entirely from the wheel. I can then spin out the "retaining ring" while the freewheel body is sitting over a recycled tuna fish can. All the bearings and the freewhell body will fall nicely into the can. I usually have a small amount of WD40 in the can to help eliminate any "bounce" that might scatter the bearrings. On one can, I actually attached some "Magnetic tool roll" material to prevent bouncing, this also tends to magnetize the bearings a little so they are "encouraged" to stick to the freewheel body for reassembly. I insert the (splined type only) freewheel tool through the back of the freewheel supported by either an appropriate socket modified to sit in a bench vise or directly held in a vise when it becomes time to tighten the retaining ring for reassembly.
Great work around with the tool inserted into the back. I've done the same a few times myself (before I acquired the needed tools). Unfortunately this will not work on those blasted two, three and four notched bodies. But it is a great alternative to owning a very hard to find (and can be expensive) aluminum tool which inserts into the back of the freewheel and then expands against the threads as a vise is clamped shut.

With the "notched" bodies and no special tool, about the only way to tighten the retaining ring is to remount the freewheel and get out the hammer and punch.
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Old 05-12-15, 09:54 AM
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Yeah, my technique only works on splined style bodies. For notched types, I have an orphaned English threaded Stronglight RH bottom bracket cup that has an extra long threaded section and an"acorn" or hexagonal adjusting flats. I snug a BB lock ring up against the back of the freewheel body and then the BB cup can be held in the vise. I hadn't known of the "expanding" tool that you describe. Your picture shows one important fact about Shimano freewheels, namely that the ball bearings must be loaded onto the inner freewheel body ( the inboard set of bearings, that is) to enable it to be assembled. All the other freewheel brands that I have worked with, one loads the ball bearings into the races of the outer part of the freewheel body. Basically, like hub bearings into a hub shell. When the assembly is completed, the correct notched tool can be held in the vise, with the freewheel body inverted, to loosen the BB lock ring and cup from the freewheel.
Perhaps this might start a "work around" thread for those repeated and pesky repair issues where a specific tool is either non existent, rare as Hen's teeth, or cost prohibitive.
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