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Centurion Master Ironman Dave Scott, what to do?

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Centurion Master Ironman Dave Scott, what to do?

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Old 07-04-12, 12:42 PM
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Maycat
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Centurion Master Ironman Dave Scott, what to do?

I am a newbie finally posting something after lurking on the forums for a few years!



Here is a link to the picture http://flic.kr/p/cqZgD3

I just got a Centurion Master Ironman Dave Scott which I think is from 1988 or 1989. It seems to fit me well. I am a bit terrified to ride it as it is so twitchy, and this is my first road bike... ever. I got it from craigslist for $120. It has nice dent in the top tube, and a bit of rust flecks here and there, but it rides very smoothly. The brakes are not very good, so I think they should be replaced. My roommate will help me tune it up and install the brakes. Money is tight for me right now, and I am doing my first triathlon in 10 weeks, so I need to get this safe and riding well.

My question to you is, what type of brakes should I get for this?

I was slipping off the pedals, so I just got dual spd pedals (PD-M324) to replace them with. I know that I also need to re-wrap the drop bars, any suggestion on the type of tape I should use? Another question, keeping in mind that it has a dent in tube, so I am not sure what the value of this is, what can I do to improve this bike and make it a good one for me to ride every week and ride through the triathlon?

Thank you!
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Old 07-04-12, 12:53 PM
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That bike is dangerous. You will need to ship it to me right away for proper disposal.

Seriously, that is a gnarly machine. The brakes should be shimano 600s and will work very well. I would get some new brake pads, and replace the cables and housings. Repack the bearings in the hubs and bottom bracket and ride the crap out of it. What is going on under that bar tape?
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Old 07-04-12, 01:01 PM
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Thank you!
Originally Posted by poke em View Post
What is going on under that bar tape?
What do you mean? The bars seem to be in good shape, if that is what you mean.
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Old 07-04-12, 01:29 PM
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1988 Centurion Dave Scott Ironman Master. Looks like a 54cm or 56cm.
Excellent price, should have all Shimano 600 "tricolor" components and a Nitto stem, Nitto B115 bars.

If you're very very limited on the budget, you should focus on cleaning, lubing, get your pads at Walmart, which has 1-pc Bell pads that would work, and also a black cable/housing kit that would also work just fine, and Bell black wrap that would work. You may spend $23-$25 in parts, the rest in time and effort. Having a shop do it will cost more than you paid, so maybe make friends with someone similar to us, a cyclist who's willing to help out a newbie.

Yes, you can train on it. Yes, you can race on it. That is exactly the market for which it was intended.
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Old 07-04-12, 01:40 PM
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Thank you! I will do just that. My housemate has offered to help do the work for me, partly because I cook for him all the time, partly because he is hoping that after the triathlon I give him the bike! I am just so grateful to have found it.
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Old 07-04-12, 01:53 PM
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Seriously nice Tri bike.
Good score
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Old 07-04-12, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Maycat View Post
...partly because he is hoping that after the triathlon I give him the bike! I am just so grateful to have found it.


Here's to hoping that won't happen!
Keep the bike, ride it like crazy. A wonderful score, there is one for $500 on my local CL, although no dent
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Old 07-04-12, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Maycat View Post
Thank you! I will do just that. My housemate has offered to help do the work for me, partly because I cook for him all the time, partly because he is hoping that after the triathlon I give him the bike! I am just so grateful to have found it.
Sounds like he's already had a nip at the Ironman Kool-Aid. It happens.

What you have is an extremely capable bike that has an fan following because it's well deserved. It was designed for just what you want to do, that is, train and compete without the bike being in inhibitor in your success.

The bike is well-balanced, well-equipped, precise, and smooth.

It's so affordable, there's little financial risk involved; you can likely get it ready, compete on it, and sell it for a slight profit.

It's so competent, you may well decide not to let it go. I

've seen them used to "start off," and I've seen very experienced triathloners decide they're more fun to compete on than modern, specific bikes.

One is scheduled to be ridden in the Portland, OR half-Ironman, and another is currently crossing the USA from sea to shining sea. They range from beat up to pristine, and $50 to $500.

They're hard to kill, because they're Iron, man!
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Old 07-04-12, 08:16 PM
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So, should I worry about the dent? Should I try to fix it or just ignore it?
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Old 07-04-12, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Maycat View Post
Thank you! I will do just that. My housemate has offered to help do the work for me, partly because I cook for him all the time, partly because he is hoping that after the triathlon I give him the bike! I am just so grateful to have found it.
Robbie said it is a 1988, but it appears to be exactly like the one he built for me, and mine is a 1989. You got a great bike at a great price too. Also, the there are a bunch of Centurion lovers/experts/gurus around here.. First off, I would take that lock off as it would seem to bang the up against the tube.

Again, congrats on getting a fine bike..With a little fixin it you got a prize...
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Old 07-04-12, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Maycat View Post
Thank you!


What do you mean? The bars seem to be in good shape, if that is what you mean.
The hooks of the drops are really fat, like the original owner built them up with extra bar tape underneath or something.

Your brake cable is also routed around the outside of the bars when they're designed to be routed on the inside of the curve. Your left and right levers are probably on the wrong sides. If there's a Shimano SLR sticker on the lever blade, it should face outward. Swapping the brake levers around will fix the cable routing issue since the lever bodies offset the cable to the inside of the bars when installed correctly.
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Old 07-04-12, 10:46 PM
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Oh yes, we just cut off that lock and cable. Here is a picture of the dent http://www.flickr.com/photos/81963937@N08/7505818766/
and here are the drop bars http://www.flickr.com/photos/81963937@N08/7505819100/
Here is the picture of the brake lever, the cable is on the outside on one of them, like you said http://www.flickr.com/photos/81963937@N08/7505849630/

Should I try to repair the dent too? Will it affect the frame integrity?
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Old 07-04-12, 11:01 PM
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I've got a bike with a similar dent, and it in no way affects the ride or the integrity of the frame. I wouldn't worry about it until you decide if you are keeping the bike or selling it after your triathalon. At that point you may want to deal with the little bit of rust that appears to have started (cleaning down to bare metal and at least covering with some kind of touch up paint).

As for bartape, I recommend you get some basic cork tape (Performance , Niagra Cycle, or Nashbar both sell it online check these links).
http://www.niagaracycle.com/product_...ucts_id=433684
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...31_-1___202444
http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...75_-1___400214
It is padded which makes the ride a little more comfortable, and you can fix the cable routing issues after removing the old stuff, before re-wrapping.
Good luck and enjoy the training and ride.
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Old 07-05-12, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by cehowardGS View Post
Robbie said it is a 1988, but it appears to be exactly like the one he built for me, and mine is a 1989.
the "purple haze" paint job is from 1988 but u can tell what year from the serial #..
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Old 07-05-12, 07:40 AM
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1985's were two-tones, but only the head tube was the second color, standard Ironman models.

1986's were all two-tones, standard Ironman models, with seat tube/head tube match.

1987's were all two-tones, both the Experts and Masters.

1988, Purple Haze Master is correct, purple smoked fade. The Experts were straight fades.
Those were the years of the squiggle graphics.

1989 was the Hard Rock Master grey marbled fade, and the Red Menace Master, a solid.
1989 also had Smoke on the Water Expert, blue smoked fade, and the Black Dog Expert, a solid.

That's the basic info. You just never know.
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Old 07-05-12, 10:47 AM
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I've seen very experienced triathloners decide they're more fun to compete on than modern, specific bikes. One is scheduled to be ridden in the Portland, OR half-Ironman, and another is currently crossing the USA from sea to shining sea. They range from beat up to pristine, and $50 to $500. They're hard to kill, because they're Iron, man!
Pun aside (and a good one there, RT!), that's why I just posted a WTB for one of these in 53-54cm on the for sale/WTB thread. Guy I built a Cannondale for wants one for his young 'un who does the tri thing.
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Old 07-05-12, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Maycat View Post
Thank you!


What do you mean? The bars seem to be in good shape, if that is what you mean.
Looks like someone modified the bars to have a flat section instead of the regular hook. My Montello came that way. When I removed the bar warp I found short aluminum strips scotch-taped to the hooks! Makes the bars look kinda weird, for sure.
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Old 07-05-12, 01:33 PM
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Great find at a wonderful price!
+1 on what others have suggested.....some elbow grease, new cables and brake pads and handlebar tape, then ride the heck out of it!!!!
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Old 07-05-12, 02:03 PM
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the bike is not twitchy, the new rider is. the last thing those frames are is 'twitchy'--as you keep riding, you will smooth your pedaling and bike handling and you will discover what a stable frame you've got. one thing i would add is, when you can afford it, get a professional fit session to get your position dialed in-- a good fit can unlock power and speed you didn't know you had. you can check around with LBS's/tri's/racers to find one. it pains me to see some of the low saddle/high stem combinations new riders get themselves into because it 'feels right'-- and that goes for people who for one anatomical reason or another can't slam the stem and raise the seat. if the bike fit guy is made aware of, or sees reasons why you can't get into a good aero position, he can still help you find a position that will protect you low back/neck, whatever, and also help you deliver as much power as possible to the cranks
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Old 07-05-12, 03:36 PM
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^^ ...+1 it's like finding another gear, or 10...^^
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Old 07-07-12, 01:38 AM
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Yep! I guess "responsive" is a better word. Compared to my old 3-speeds, it is like driving a lotus after learning how to drive an old station wagon. Brilliant bike. I will spend this weekend tuning and cleaning it out. I will get fitted as soon as I get more $ together.

Thanks all of you for your help and support with this.
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Old 07-07-12, 02:13 AM
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Nice bike!I had a 87 expert.As far as the dent Teon found some info on the NET. on how to fix it.Basically its two half round dies you oil up and clamp around the dented tube and roll it out looked pretty basic.
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Old 07-07-12, 03:11 AM
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the dent removal process looks like it destroys the paint job though

if the dent don't hurt then i wouldn't worry about it
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