They are the only toe clips I will use anymore. I have size 11.5 feet and these work great. Also, they allow me to keep the straps loose, so I can slide my feet in and out without ever thinking about adjusting the strap. I don't tighten the straps down anyway. I use these w/ MKS Touring pedals and am able to use big shoes when it gets cold outside with no problems.

Don't treat the laminated ones because the leather will shrink and the lamination will not. Having said that I never treated my straps.

My feet are too big for any of the MKS pedals.
It may look unconventional, but you don't get any shoe bounce when applying power with this set-up. The right strap gets the most use. The left one is still ok.

I am a fan of whatever works. You should twist the strap (where it runs through the pedal body) so it does not move.

Is it okay to oil or saddle soap seemingly dry straps?

I've only worn through 5 pairs in the last 30 years and have never done so... Not sure because they do seem to get rather stressed; hence tears and stretches at metal contact points. I like that they are less prone to twisting than nylon but wouldn't want them too supple.

I'm not sure if twisting the strap would work on these pedals as the holes on the sides might be too big and it would just pull through.

These are the straps that were on the bike when I got it. I buffed the rust off the buckles awhile back but there is no brand name anywhere. They just say made in england. Anyone know what brand these are? I'm just keeping them to look at.

Some pedals have tight fitting access for the straps, if this is the case you don't need to twist. In fact I have 5 road bikes with straps and not one is twisted and not one has ever moved. Besides if one were to move it's a very small effort to get it back to where it's suppose to be.

Amazing. 32 responses to something as archaic as toeclips and leather straps. Gives me warm fuzzies all over because I'm still using the 1st or 2nd set of toeclips and straps since about '76. I don't have mine tight, the leather strap is run thru the front of my pedal fore easy-out, and the buckle is on the bottom so it doesn't chew up my shoes.

Gotta love BF!

That's about the strangest thing I've read here in a while. But an interesting idea.

It was nylon, not steel.

+2 on RoadTire's post... never heard of doing it that way

I have a laminated set of Cinelli straps on my NR pedals currently, and have never been able to just pull on the ends to tighten them, even with buttons on the ends. They are as thick as the Bindas I have used, and do not need to be twisted in the pedal to stay in place.

I have been riding clipless for the last year or so, but took a look at them last night to see why they were so stiff in the buckle area. The rollers are very tight (won't turn) and I think this is what is causing the problem. Any suggestions on how to loosen them up? Never had this problem before.

They are like these (didn't pay nearly this much though!):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cinelli-Bind...item3a77cc1a27

Interesting problem, Pars. I don't have any Cinelli straps, and I note the construction is slightly different from A. Binda straps.
Only thing I can think of is that the roller is being pinched too tight between those two "ears" that hold the axle the roller spins on. Have you tried bending those ears out just a hair?

^ Not sure. I took a stab at wedging a small screwdriver in each end between the roller and the ear with no success last night. I've had these for a number of years and they have always been like this. Not sure why it didn't bother me until now... :palm:

I will probably toss another pair of straps in until I work this out, but I haven't been riding these for awhile anyhow. Nice to have as an option though.

I should clarify -- the leather strap is run thru both front - side slots of my pedal fore easy-out. If I was using a light boot for cold weather, I would but the straps thru the front of the pedal. Sorry if I was vague. But thank you for the compliment Rootboy, "That's about the strangest thing I've read here in a while" :thumb:

I don't find that odd, I knew guys who ran their straps that way, I don't because I've been riding straps for 40 years and for me it's not a problem. I also don't cinch down my straps tight either, you shouldn't have to if your using the correct shoe with the correct cleat that has the slot that slips onto the rear of the pedal cage. When I was racing I did cinch it tighter then I do since I stopped but I still have very little issues of my foot coming out of the pedal. By the same token people with the modern clipless design have their feet come out of the pedal unwantingly, I see this from time to time watching pro racing which makes you wonder how many times it's happened when the camera is not watching, or not shown to us viewers.

The better toe straps have a wider section where the buckle is to protect the shoe from the buckle, but I still have a pair of road shoes I bought in 1982 that are still good. Being a tightwad I did crash once that ripped the shoe about 1/2 inch, I stitched it with fishing line and it's been holding since 1984!! Did I say I was a tightwad?

^ same wrt straps/tightness. I ride with Avocet touring shoes that have ridges on the bottom and having the straps somewhat loose has never been a problem with having my foot come out. Other than a time last year when I was "considering" crashing, at which point it was probably good to have my foot out anyhow. Didn't crash, but damn close.

I also have a pair of '80s Diadora cleated shoes, with a spare set of cleats. I rode these once last year as well.

I use to read years ago that it was better in a crash to remain connected to your pedals because as your leg flies out to brace for impact you take a chance of breaking the leg, if the leg remains connected you simply fall on your side bruising your entire side. I don't know if that's true or not because I've never gone out to test the theory!!

I thought about putting some proofide on my older straps. Maybe a little bit might be ok. I assume too much will make them stretch. But then I bought new ones since those looked like crap.

I wouldn't oil them. But I do wipe a little saddle soap, or wax, on them when first stringing them through the pedal cages. Seems to help them slip through ...but just a bit. I wax mine every few years if they look dry.

I replaced leather with the nylon webbing, in common straps these days.
which I stiffened up by applying
the Plastidip stuff you get in the Hardware store for dipping tool handles and such into.
it soaks into the fibers and then cures, to hardness but flexibility.

pop-riveted on a different [campag] buckle..

I used Plastidip to re-coat the deteriorated interior coating on Cordura nylon stuff, too..

I'm kind of weird, if you haven't already realized that! Anyway, I treat my Brooks saddles with Proofide and follow up with neutral KIWI shoe wax; but the straps? I've never treated them! They clean up fine with 409. So when I clean my bar tape and hoods with 409 I hit the straps too. I haven't seem to have any problems doing it that way for the last 40 years.

+1 on the Toshi straps. They are laminated and I find the quality on par with Binda and Ale straps.

I don't think toe straps are archaic or a thing of the past. I understand that they are not only used in Keirin racing but also in modern track racing with clipless pedals. I think I read somewhere that they prevent accidental disengagement.
Here is Shane Perkins using toe straps:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8H6fU9VNgQ

I sit here corrected. That's pretty insane training and racing. Wow!

This is true because modern pedals will not ensure against a disconnect from a rider as powerful as the pro Keirin racers are, they develop a lot torque and wattage from those massive legs, more so then pro road racers. Some Keirin racers are still using the old quill style track pedals Even regular Pro riders come disconnected on occasion as does just regular riders as one posted here has done. But normally a strap on a modern clipless pedal should not be needed.